Location

Italy

Ahhh … Italy! Home of renaissance literature, philosophy, science and some of the most heart warming food in the world. From North to South it would be a fair guess to say the only thing outnumbering churches and Vespa’s are the vast areas of vineyards.

One thing is certain, you’ll never run short of choice!

First Records of Wine Production – Go back millennia!

Founding Figures – The Greek colonisation marked a shift from vine grown in the wild to planned viticulture around 800 BC the Romans dramatically expanded production around 200 BC. The Italians never looked back!

Area Planted – Around 700,000 hectares making around 19% of the world’s wine!

Number of Wineries – Soave alone is made by 3,500 producers. That’s around the same number of wineries as in all of Australia! From gargistes to industrial scale conglomerates every Italian has a winemaker in the family.

Established Regions – Every region in Italy produces wine! The most prestigious region Piedmont is home to the stunning Nebbiolos of Barolo & Barbaresco. The Chianti and Brunello of Tuscany following hot on Piedmont’s heals. These are just a drop in the ocean!

In typical Italian style the classification systems of each region vary and are often skewed by influential persons with much to gain over the quality of the industry. As always we need to rely on our taste buds as the ultimate decider of quality!

Most Common VarietiesIn his book ‘Native Wine Grapes of Italy’ Ian D’Agata documents around 500 Italian grape varieties, by no means the complete set! Around 350 of these have been granted authorized status. There’s plenty to try! We’ve seen a push to save some of the notable, rare varietals like the white Nascetta and Arneis from Piedmont. 

Whilst we have seen an ingress of French Varietals, the most notable being the Cabernet Varietals + Syrah used to make the Super Tuscans, the Italians have, by and large stayed true to their roots.

White – Whites of note: Arneis (Piedmont), Cataratto (Sicily), Fiano (southwest coast), Friulano (Friuli), Gargenaga (Veneto – the Soave grape), Greco di Tufo (southwest coast), Malvasia Bianca (throughout Italy), Moscato Blanc (Piedmont), Pecorino (Abruzzo), Pinot Grigo (Why?), Ribolla Gialla (Friulli), Trebbiano (Abruzzo), Verdicchio (Marche) and Vermentino (Sardinia, Tuscany and Liguria).

Red – Aglianico (Campania), Barbera (Piedmont), Corvina blended with Rondinella to make Amarone, Dolcetto (Piedmont), Malvasia Nera (Puglia), Montepuliciano (Tuscany), Nebbiolo (Piedmont), Negaromaro (Puglia), Nero d’Avola (Sicily), Primitivo (Puglia), Sagrantino (Umbria) and Sangiovese (Tuscany).

Up and Coming Regions – Beyond Barolo and Barbaresco, around the world we have seen Amarone, Chianti, Soave, Prosecco, Verdicchio and the wines of Puglia gain strong recognition. In recent times the increasing cost of Barolo in particular has seen exploration of Nebbiolo from Alto Piedmonte and Valtellina. At the opposite end of the country, in part due to the investment of heavy hitters like ‘Barolo Boy’ Marco di Grazie (Terre Nere) and Andrea Franchetti (Passopisciaro) the Nerello Mascelese (red) and Carricante (white) wines of Etna, Sicily have become world recognised. Nerello Mascelese being described as some as the Barolo of the South or a cross between Nebbiolo and Pinot. I prefer to call it delicious!


A Treasure Hunt for the Lost Whites of Italy!


Timorasso ~ Nascetta ~ Erbaluce

3 Italian Whites Saved from Extinction!

Of the thousands of grape varieties that exist, and even more clones of each variety, few make it into our glass.

Many have been lost. Economic reality making them not viable.

Advances in viticulture, changes in climate and the passion of a few individuals have saved a few!

For that we are thankful!


Timorasso


The Saviours

Walter & Claudio along with their shared cellarmaster ‘Pigi’ are both the saviours & masters of Timorasso! The hold some of the oldest plantings making wine of great complexity, texture. Composed & full of personality.

Walter describes his Derthona as a “Modern Antique”.

Monlia Colli Tortonesi Timorasso 2021

Timorasso | Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi

Released 6 months later than the 2020 and it shows immediately. The extra time offers up a beautifully resolved wine. There’s something about the texture, aroma and flavour profile of good Italian white. That silvery line of bitterness that graces the finish. Out to play, seamless, the texture is refined with an excellent phenolic play married to fine acid. When Pietro visited Wine Deoced HQ we talked of the gentle development large oak casks offer whilst retaining freshness in a wine. This is
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NOTE on the 2022: An excellent follow up to the 2021. A slightly more generous iteration. All of the elements once again at play. Texture, clever use of oxidative handling to build intrigue whilst maintaining a core of vibrant fruit and mineral acidity. Citrus zest and oils with pears and a little candied ginger. White flowers dance over the top with a little savoury hit. Flowing and luscious, chalky, savoury, spiced, sapidity in a cleansing way. Plenty of intrigue and interest here. An exceptio
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Vietti Derthona Timorasso Colli Tortonesi 2020

Timorasso | Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi

The latest addition to the Vietti portfolio sees a white from the eastern most border of the Piedmont region. A perfect fit for Vietti with regard to their history of working with varietals of merit that for one reason or another have diminished over time.Timorasso makes beautiful wine the Massa is a cracker. I can't wait to try Vietti's version. With a wonderful array of flavours, textures, and, wonderful acidity the variety is loaded with personality & intrigue.For the 2019: Th
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Vigneti Massa Timorasso 'Derthona' 2022
Delicious!

Vigneti Massa Timorasso ‘Derthona’ 2022

Timorasso | Italy, Colli Tortonesi

From near extinction the Massa family have saved Timorasso, for that I am truly thankful! Massa's Derthona is the perfect introduction to the serious end of the spectrum of Timorasso.The note is a dead ringer for the 2021 although there is perhaps an edge more energy, depth and length in the 2022.Excellent build in depth and length with excellent oxidative line that sits perfectly with fine acid and insane lemon oil and those mega lemons you could eat straight + apricot kernel.. Great de
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Explore all of our Timorasso!


Nascetta


The Saviour

Elvio Cogno with his plantings in Novello, Barolo is turning out intoxicating wines from Nascetta. As he says they need a year or 2 in bottle to reveal their full potential. Grab a 2019 to drink now and 2020 next summer!

Nascetta - Italy's answer to Gewurztraminer. Fragrant, spicy and fresh.This is a fun, youthful wine that is drinking well now but could possibly benefit from a little more time to develop, allowing the fruit and underlying structure to better harmonise. Wonderful aromas come swinging out of the glass, with pops of pity citrus, yellow stone fruits, white blossoms and a line of saline minerality. The palate marries ripe, juicy fruit with a savoury lines of lees and spicy white pepper; gentle p
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Erbaluce


The Champion

Erbaluce can make many styles of from sparkling, late harvest & passito wines.

Antoniolo’s is a wonderfully fresh and crunchy dry white style. The 2020 has settled, resolving beautifully over the last 6 months and is in a wonderful place.

Perfect summer drinking.

Antoniolo Erbaluce d’Caluso DOC 2022

Erbaluce | Italy, Alto Piemonte

If you've never tried Erbaluce before this is a bloody good place to start!Like Timorasso & Nascetta this is a varietal to watch!Tasting the 2020 it was clear that like Cogno's Nascetta, Antoniolo's Erbaluce benefits from a hear in bottle to settle.Notes on the 20202nd Taste Oct 2022 - Very Good, super racy zippy acid coming together nicely resolved filled out. Looks good fun crisp. Perfect summer drinking. Elevage is there. Spice, the overt traminer, savvy b herbaceous t
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Filters & Sorting

Wickedly fresh, the 2023 Pecorino opens with a pretty blending of stone dust and white smoke, giving way to young peach and sage. This splashes across the palate with soft textural waves while maintaining fantastic energy. A spicy mix of sour lime and green apples saturate the senses. The 2023 cleans up beautifully, tart and mouthwatering, with a saline feel and a sensation of liquid stone. This zesty and wiry Pecorino from Tiberio is a total pleasure to taste.Eric Guido, Vinous 92 Points
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The 2024 Pecorino wafts up with an airy mix of mint leaf, chamomile and green melon nuances. It opens with a burst of zesty acidity contrasted by hints of candied citrus, spice and tart Granny Smith apple. The 2024 leaves the palate completely refreshed as it finishes long yet crisp.Eric Guido, Vinous 91 Points
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Vietti Castiglione Barolo 375ml 2020

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

Show the class of the vineyards and the winemakers! Fragrant, polished and vibrant right out of the gate, the 2020 Barolo Castiglione displays beautifully-lifted notes of crushed red berry fruit, rose petal, mint, white pepper and orange peel. This classically built, mid-weight Barolo is classy to the core. Like all the 2020s here, it will benefit from time in bottle or a good decant.Antoni Galloni, Vinous 93 Points ML 93
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Reduced on opening take 3 days to pop out of it's shell and reveal it's full potential. A richer Dolcetto without being over-blown. Plenty of vibrant, energy to the fruit and fine tannin. You just need to be patient and coax it out over a few days.**PREVIOUS VINTAGE** Bold primary tones of plump cherry and blackberry are delivered to the bouquet of the 2021 Dolcetto d'Alba Vigna Santo Stefano di Perno. This wine is all about freshness, fruitiness and richness. Mauro Mascarello says the 2
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Vietti Barolo 375ml 2021

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

Show the class of the vineyards and the winemakers! Excellent Barolo. The delicacy and restraint here is exceptional. The core of transparent fruit is insane. Depth, purity and such incredible clarity. A soft hand yields incredibly fine, long, even nutty tannin. Showing wonderful expression and generosity in its youth. Plenty more to come with time in bottle. Flowers, blood orange, rhubarb, red fruits. Mid-palate tannin of exceptional quality. A dark broody layer folded in. Impeccable blending.
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Olek Bondonio Langhe Nebbiolo 2022

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barbaresco

This years Langhe Nebbiolo comes from the renowned Roncagliette vineyard, 50-year-old vines, planted on heavy clay over blue marl, at 350m elevation.Volumes are ridiculously low. So much that sampling one would be a crime!*Limit 2
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Roberto Voerzio Barbera d'Alba 'Il Cerreto' 2012
Benchmark Barbera!
Roberto loves Barbera so much that he only bottles his top wine in Magnums! Respect! This is a great intro to what he is capable of! On three separate occasions, devouring verticals of the Barolo from: Giacomo Conterno, Roberto Voerzio, and, Vietti, their Barberas have shone through as some of the best wines of the night! 'Il Cerreto' is a stunning example of just how good the variety can be. Roberto has planted great sites to Barbera and the results shine through. Vibrant and fresh, with plush
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Ar.Pe.Pe Valtellina Superiore Inferno Fiamme Antiche 2017
Neb from the North!
Crystal clear with a more savoury flavour profile. As it opens in the glass it comes together beautifully! This too is very good. Crystal clear with a more savoury flavour profile. Took a bit longer for this to open up.  As it did it came together beautifully, the tannins have a little more presence here. The flowers are at play around the edges. The rounder mid-palate differentiates Sassella from Inferno. It’s a little about celebrating the differences once again. As always ArPePe offer up e
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Grumello is to the east of Sondrio on the opposite side to Sassella making for a fascinating comparison in site! Of the three Superiores this looks the darkest, the tannins sit more aggressively, yet, not overly so. With a plate of food you'd not notice. A little shorter than the other Superiores. The acid appears higher. Another complex offering from Ar.Pe.Pe. A little disjointed at the moment. It is the wine I am least certain of in term of it's evolution as it ages.
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Rosso doing it right! Fuligni's 'Ginestreto' is beautifully poised. Ever so devourable this is classic Sangio! Excellent. True to the Fuligni style, perhaps with an extra bit of complexity for the wine at this stage of its life. A wonderful core of fruit. This is more in the mold of a baby Brunello than a playful Rosso. Plush, with fine tannins, generous mid-palate and great length. The build in complexity with layers of intrigue, from earthy almost truffled pops. Long delicious. Plump and vital
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Antoniotti Bramaterra 2016

Red Blend | Italy, Alto Piemonte

The Alto is sharing its gems with us! Antoniotti's Bramaterra is a stunner. A blend of 70% Nebbiolo, 20% Croatina, 7% Vespolina & 3 % Bonarda, it just keeps giving, sniff after sniff offering up something new and special, layered, earthy, savoury, a little pine resin, spice, blue fruits and more. A richness of fruit, that I suspect is fortified by the Coratina and Vespolica, yet freshness rests beautifully in a cradle of suitably edgy Neb tannin that has you salivating for more!If this
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Rainoldi Nebbiolo Brut Rosé 2018

Rosé | Valtellina, Inferno

First released in 1980! Cracking 'Metodo Classico' fizz from Valtellina! I've had some solid sparkling Nebbiolo from Piedmont before. None quite like this! When this was poured for me I had no expectations and ended up having a WOW! moment.Made from Chiavennasca 92% A.K.A Nebbiolo, Pignola 4%, Rossola 4%.Excellent texture and mousse, light salmon colour with a red fruit down the raspberry line, superb acid, balancing alow dose. Very sophisticated. A play of light woody herbs, rose, fa
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