Location

Italy

Ahhh … Italy! Home of renaissance literature, philosophy, science and some of the most heart warming food in the world. From North to South it would be a fair guess to say the only thing outnumbering churches and Vespa’s are the vast areas of vineyards.

One thing is certain, you’ll never run short of choice!

First Records of Wine Production – Go back millennia!

Founding Figures – The Greek colonisation marked a shift from vine grown in the wild to planned viticulture around 800 BC the Romans dramatically expanded production around 200 BC. The Italians never looked back!

Area Planted – Around 700,000 hectares making around 19% of the world’s wine!

Number of Wineries – Soave alone is made by 3,500 producers. That’s around the same number of wineries as in all of Australia! From gargistes to industrial scale conglomerates every Italian has a winemaker in the family.

Established Regions – Every region in Italy produces wine! The most prestigious region Piedmont is home to the stunning Nebbiolos of Barolo & Barbaresco. The Chianti and Brunello of Tuscany following hot on Piedmont’s heals. These are just a drop in the ocean!

In typical Italian style the classification systems of each region vary and are often skewed by influential persons with much to gain over the quality of the industry. As always we need to rely on our taste buds as the ultimate decider of quality!

Most Common VarietiesIn his book ‘Native Wine Grapes of Italy’ Ian D’Agata documents around 500 Italian grape varieties, by no means the complete set! Around 350 of these have been granted authorized status. There’s plenty to try! We’ve seen a push to save some of the notable, rare varietals like the white Nascetta and Arneis from Piedmont. 

Whilst we have seen an ingress of French Varietals, the most notable being the Cabernet Varietals + Syrah used to make the Super Tuscans, the Italians have, by and large stayed true to their roots.

White – Whites of note: Arneis (Piedmont), Cataratto (Sicily), Fiano (southwest coast), Friulano (Friuli), Gargenaga (Veneto – the Soave grape), Greco di Tufo (southwest coast), Malvasia Bianca (throughout Italy), Moscato Blanc (Piedmont), Pecorino (Abruzzo), Pinot Grigo (Why?), Ribolla Gialla (Friulli), Trebbiano (Abruzzo), Verdicchio (Marche) and Vermentino (Sardinia, Tuscany and Liguria).

Red – Aglianico (Campania), Barbera (Piedmont), Corvina blended with Rondinella to make Amarone, Dolcetto (Piedmont), Malvasia Nera (Puglia), Montepuliciano (Tuscany), Nebbiolo (Piedmont), Negaromaro (Puglia), Nero d’Avola (Sicily), Primitivo (Puglia), Sagrantino (Umbria) and Sangiovese (Tuscany).

Up and Coming Regions – Beyond Barolo and Barbaresco, around the world we have seen Amarone, Chianti, Soave, Prosecco, Verdicchio and the wines of Puglia gain strong recognition. In recent times the increasing cost of Barolo in particular has seen exploration of Nebbiolo from Alto Piedmonte and Valtellina. At the opposite end of the country, in part due to the investment of heavy hitters like ‘Barolo Boy’ Marco di Grazie (Terre Nere) and Andrea Franchetti (Passopisciaro) the Nerello Mascelese (red) and Carricante (white) wines of Etna, Sicily have become world recognised. Nerello Mascelese being described as some as the Barolo of the South or a cross between Nebbiolo and Pinot. I prefer to call it delicious!


A Treasure Hunt for the Lost Whites of Italy!


Timorasso ~ Nascetta ~ Erbaluce

3 Italian Whites Saved from Extinction!

Of the thousands of grape varieties that exist, and even more clones of each variety, few make it into our glass.

Many have been lost. Economic reality making them not viable.

Advances in viticulture, changes in climate and the passion of a few individuals have saved a few!

For that we are thankful!


Timorasso


The Saviours

Walter & Claudio along with their shared cellarmaster ‘Pigi’ are both the saviours & masters of Timorasso! The hold some of the oldest plantings making wine of great complexity, texture. Composed & full of personality.

Walter describes his Derthona as a “Modern Antique”.

Monlia Colli Tortonesi Timorasso 2021

Timorasso | Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi

Released 6 months later than the 2020 and it shows immediately. The extra time offers up a beautifully resolved wine. There’s something about the texture, aroma and flavour profile of good Italian white. That silvery line of bitterness that graces the finish. Out to play, seamless, the texture is refined with an excellent phenolic play married to fine acid. When Pietro visited Wine Deoced HQ we talked of the gentle development large oak casks offer whilst retaining freshness in a wine. This is
$60
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NOTE on the 2022: An excellent follow up to the 2021. A slightly more generous iteration. All of the elements once again at play. Texture, clever use of oxidative handling to build intrigue whilst maintaining a core of vibrant fruit and mineral acidity. Citrus zest and oils with pears and a little candied ginger. White flowers dance over the top with a little savoury hit. Flowing and luscious, chalky, savoury, spiced, sapidity in a cleansing way. Plenty of intrigue and interest here. An exceptio
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Vietti Derthona Timorasso Colli Tortonesi 2020

Timorasso | Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi

The latest addition to the Vietti portfolio sees a white from the eastern most border of the Piedmont region. A perfect fit for Vietti with regard to their history of working with varietals of merit that for one reason or another have diminished over time.Timorasso makes beautiful wine the Massa is a cracker. I can't wait to try Vietti's version. With a wonderful array of flavours, textures, and, wonderful acidity the variety is loaded with personality & intrigue.For the 2019: Th
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Vigneti Massa Timorasso 'Derthona' 2022
Delicious!

Vigneti Massa Timorasso ‘Derthona’ 2022

Timorasso | Italy, Colli Tortonesi

From near extinction the Massa family have saved Timorasso, for that I am truly thankful! Massa's Derthona is the perfect introduction to the serious end of the spectrum of Timorasso.The note is a dead ringer for the 2021 although there is perhaps an edge more energy, depth and length in the 2022.Excellent build in depth and length with excellent oxidative line that sits perfectly with fine acid and insane lemon oil and those mega lemons you could eat straight + apricot kernel.. Great de
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Explore all of our Timorasso!


Nascetta


The Saviour

Elvio Cogno with his plantings in Novello, Barolo is turning out intoxicating wines from Nascetta. As he says they need a year or 2 in bottle to reveal their full potential. Grab a 2019 to drink now and 2020 next summer!

Nascetta - Italy's answer to Gewurztraminer. Fragrant, spicy and fresh.This is a fun, youthful wine that is drinking well now but could possibly benefit from a little more time to develop, allowing the fruit and underlying structure to better harmonise. Wonderful aromas come swinging out of the glass, with pops of pity citrus, yellow stone fruits, white blossoms and a line of saline minerality. The palate marries ripe, juicy fruit with a savoury lines of lees and spicy white pepper; gentle p
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Erbaluce


The Champion

Erbaluce can make many styles of from sparkling, late harvest & passito wines.

Antoniolo’s is a wonderfully fresh and crunchy dry white style. The 2020 has settled, resolving beautifully over the last 6 months and is in a wonderful place.

Perfect summer drinking.

Antoniolo Erbaluce d’Caluso DOC 2022

Erbaluce | Italy, Alto Piemonte

If you've never tried Erbaluce before this is a bloody good place to start!Like Timorasso & Nascetta this is a varietal to watch!Tasting the 2020 it was clear that like Cogno's Nascetta, Antoniolo's Erbaluce benefits from a hear in bottle to settle.Notes on the 20202nd Taste Oct 2022 - Very Good, super racy zippy acid coming together nicely resolved filled out. Looks good fun crisp. Perfect summer drinking. Elevage is there. Spice, the overt traminer, savvy b herbaceous t
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Filters & Sorting

Vietti Barbaresco ‘Masseria Roncaglie’ 2020

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barbaresco

The 2020 Barbaresco, from vines in Roncaglie, sizzles with tension. Bright, red-toned fruit, orange peel, mint, white pepper and crushed rocks are all beautifully delineated. In many vintages, the Roncaglie is quite showy. That is hardly the case in 2020, a vintage in which the wine is classically austere and in need of time. Super-classic.Antoni Galloni, Vinous 94+ PointsThe Vietti 2020 Barbaresco Roncaglie Masseria has bright rose, cherry, redcurrant and angel food cake with stra
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"The 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Piero is impossible to ignore, slowly blossoming with an enticing blend of spice-dusted blackberries, violet pastille and orange zest. This impresses further with its vividly ripe wild berry fruits and juicy acidity. Tactile mineral tones add contrast, and rosy inner florals form toward the close. The 2019 lingers impossibly long, taking on a spicy edge, as the palate is left reverberating with zesty tension, even as fine-grained tannins grip the senses. The Pier
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On the day tasting all of the 2021 Barolos side by side the Clerico 'Ciabot Mentin' and the Barolo di Monforte were drinking the best. The joy of wine and the quality of the full range will see any of exceptional 2021's be called WOTN over time! Exceptional depth and length, the 'Ciabot Mentin' is an epic wine with stunning tannins. Alpine spice. Fresh with so much power yet elegance. Like Pajana I can’t wait to see this fully resolved and build complexity. Even on the day it was building in t
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Giovanni Sordo Barolo 'Monprivato' 2015
The Super Stars!

Giovanni Sordo Barolo ‘Monprivato’ 2015

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

Earthy and savoury with great depth and length. Incredible core of fruit. So many layers of flavour and tannin, just so much to get from this wine. Such purity, detail, so fine, it draws you in! Update Nov 2024: Drinking superbly. Incredible complexity. Layered with fine, long, flowing tannins. Ridgey's cranberries and faded flowers on full display. Delicious, expressive drinking straight out of the gate showing the typical immediate approachability of Sordo (and many other's) 2015 Barolos. Cle
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Giovanni Sordo Barolo 'Monprivato' 2016
The Super Stars!

Giovanni Sordo Barolo ‘Monprivato’ 2016

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

All about delicacy, almost Barbaresco-like with roses, strawberry, orange and musk. Palate is big; bigger than Rocche and with some clear ripe red fruit flavours and that Castiglione acid/tannin bonding. Has energy. Should do big things. Slowly. Started dense and fragrant...then shut down. All about delicacy, almost Barbaresco-like with roses, strawberry, orange and musk. Slowly opens, to cranberry, fading flowers and more dense elements of cherry liqueur cinnamon and tobacco. A brilliant classy
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Wow! A sensational Rocche. At this early stage in its life it sit with harmony, together. Expressive, a long even palate, stunning tannins that caress. The perfume is intoxicating, faded flowers of Castiglione Falletto. A superb core of fruit of exceptional length.Year in year out this is in the top 3 of Sordo 8 Barolo Crus. It looks like this year will be no different. Savoury, a little salty and earthy. This will be long lived. Beautifullly composed.
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Giovanni Sordo Barolo ‘Gabutti’ MAGNUM 2019

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

A wonderful expression of Serralunga, all of the tea, slate, graphite, exceptional quality tannins, with a presence and sophistication. The firm mouthfeel of seriously good Serralunga tannins. Again such a complete wine. The nose draws you in. Begging you to drink. A darkness and energy that is palpable.Impressive gear. Precise, and pure, wearing the vineyard and commune on its sleeve. Superb fruit of depth and length. Great drinking here with much much more to come.
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This entire Contrada, Bocca d’Orzo, was buried in the lava flow of 1981, bar this tiny ‘dagala’ or island of intact 70-year-old vines. Marco negotiated and purchased this tiny 0.75 hectare plot and produced his first vintage from it in 2019. Only 800 bottles are produced each year. The dagala sits at 800 metres with soils of deep volcanic ash and pebbles.This wine is intensely floral with hints not only of red flowers but violets and wild herbs, too. It is very structured, almost li
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Massolino Barolo DOCG MAGNUM 2021
What a way to start DOCG Barolo!

Massolino Barolo DOCG MAGNUM 2021

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

First produced in 1911, the fruit for Massolino’s classic cuvée is selected from seven sites across roughly seven hectares of prime-sited Serralunga vineyards. The most important of these sites—Briccolina, Collareto, Broglio and Le Turne—are dotted around the town itself (Le Turne borders Margheria, while Collareto lies next to Vigna Rionda)—so we are talking quality real estate. The 2021 also includes a little declassified fruit from Massolino’s Parussi Cru. Vine age varies from 10 t
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Giuseppe Cortese Barbaresco Rabajà Riserva 2016

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barbaresco

🍇RABAJÀ RABAJÀ RABAJÀ 🇮🇹 The 2016 Rabajà Riserva has that spark taking it from good to great. Engaging from the outset, take your time, enjoy this over hours even days in its youth.Cortese have always marched to their own tune, making grape first wines that have a finesse and sophistication about them. Balancing freshness and energy with development. They often appear a little out of sorts when young, particularly at the entry level. Those with patience are rewarded as they shap
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Cavallotto Barolo Riserva 'Vignolo' 2012
Power + Elegance

Cavallotto Barolo Riserva ‘Vignolo’ 2012

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Castiglione Falletto

Cavallotto's Riserva 'Vignolo' is such a delicious wine, poised, fragrant, such incredible layers of flavour & the rare seamless harmony only the greats seem to manage. Cavallotto are making beautiful wines of great presence, harmony and detail. The Riserva Vignolo is always a little bolder than the Riserva Vigna San Guiseppe. They both have that hallmark Castiglione tannin layered, supple and of line and length. Grab a bottle of Cavallotto's 2012 Barolo Riserva 'Vigna San Guiseppe' for comparis
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Vietti Barolo MAGNUM 2021

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

Show the class of the vineyards and the winemakers! Excellent Barolo. The delicacy and restraint here is exceptional. The core of transparent fruit is insane. Depth, purity and such incredible clarity. A soft hand yields incredibly fine, long, even nutty tannin. Showing wonderful expression and generosity in its youth. Plenty more to come with time in bottle. Flowers, blood orange, rhubarb, red fruits. Mid-palate tannin of exceptional quality. A dark broody layer folded in. Impeccable blending.
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