Location

Italy

Ahhh … Italy! Home of renaissance literature, philosophy, science and some of the most heart warming food in the world. From North to South it would be a fair guess to say the only thing outnumbering churches and Vespa’s are the vast areas of vineyards.

One thing is certain, you’ll never run short of choice!

First Records of Wine Production – Go back millennia!

Founding Figures – The Greek colonisation marked a shift from vine grown in the wild to planned viticulture around 800 BC the Romans dramatically expanded production around 200 BC. The Italians never looked back!

Area Planted – Around 700,000 hectares making around 19% of the world’s wine!

Number of Wineries – Soave alone is made by 3,500 producers. That’s around the same number of wineries as in all of Australia! From gargistes to industrial scale conglomerates every Italian has a winemaker in the family.

Established Regions – Every region in Italy produces wine! The most prestigious region Piedmont is home to the stunning Nebbiolos of Barolo & Barbaresco. The Chianti and Brunello of Tuscany following hot on Piedmont’s heals. These are just a drop in the ocean!

In typical Italian style the classification systems of each region vary and are often skewed by influential persons with much to gain over the quality of the industry. As always we need to rely on our taste buds as the ultimate decider of quality!

Most Common VarietiesIn his book ‘Native Wine Grapes of Italy’ Ian D’Agata documents around 500 Italian grape varieties, by no means the complete set! Around 350 of these have been granted authorized status. There’s plenty to try! We’ve seen a push to save some of the notable, rare varietals like the white Nascetta and Arneis from Piedmont. 

Whilst we have seen an ingress of French Varietals, the most notable being the Cabernet Varietals + Syrah used to make the Super Tuscans, the Italians have, by and large stayed true to their roots.

White – Whites of note: Arneis (Piedmont), Cataratto (Sicily), Fiano (southwest coast), Friulano (Friuli), Gargenaga (Veneto – the Soave grape), Greco di Tufo (southwest coast), Malvasia Bianca (throughout Italy), Moscato Blanc (Piedmont), Pecorino (Abruzzo), Pinot Grigo (Why?), Ribolla Gialla (Friulli), Trebbiano (Abruzzo), Verdicchio (Marche) and Vermentino (Sardinia, Tuscany and Liguria).

Red – Aglianico (Campania), Barbera (Piedmont), Corvina blended with Rondinella to make Amarone, Dolcetto (Piedmont), Malvasia Nera (Puglia), Montepuliciano (Tuscany), Nebbiolo (Piedmont), Negaromaro (Puglia), Nero d’Avola (Sicily), Primitivo (Puglia), Sagrantino (Umbria) and Sangiovese (Tuscany).

Up and Coming Regions – Beyond Barolo and Barbaresco, around the world we have seen Amarone, Chianti, Soave, Prosecco, Verdicchio and the wines of Puglia gain strong recognition. In recent times the increasing cost of Barolo in particular has seen exploration of Nebbiolo from Alto Piedmonte and Valtellina. At the opposite end of the country, in part due to the investment of heavy hitters like ‘Barolo Boy’ Marco di Grazie (Terre Nere) and Andrea Franchetti (Passopisciaro) the Nerello Mascelese (red) and Carricante (white) wines of Etna, Sicily have become world recognised. Nerello Mascelese being described as some as the Barolo of the South or a cross between Nebbiolo and Pinot. I prefer to call it delicious!


A Treasure Hunt for the Lost Whites of Italy!


Timorasso ~ Nascetta ~ Erbaluce

3 Italian Whites Saved from Extinction!

Of the thousands of grape varieties that exist, and even more clones of each variety, few make it into our glass.

Many have been lost. Economic reality making them not viable.

Advances in viticulture, changes in climate and the passion of a few individuals have saved a few!

For that we are thankful!


Timorasso


The Saviours

Walter & Claudio along with their shared cellarmaster ‘Pigi’ are both the saviours & masters of Timorasso! The hold some of the oldest plantings making wine of great complexity, texture. Composed & full of personality.

Walter describes his Derthona as a “Modern Antique”.

Monlia Colli Tortonesi Timorasso 2021

Timorasso | Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi

Released 6 months later than the 2020 and it shows immediately. The extra time offers up a beautifully resolved wine. There’s something about the texture, aroma and flavour profile of good Italian white. That silvery line of bitterness that graces the finish. Out to play, seamless, the texture is refined with an excellent phenolic play married to fine acid. When Pietro visited Wine Deoced HQ we talked of the gentle development large oak casks offer whilst retaining freshness in a wine. This is
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NOTE on the 2022: An excellent follow up to the 2021. A slightly more generous iteration. All of the elements once again at play. Texture, clever use of oxidative handling to build intrigue whilst maintaining a core of vibrant fruit and mineral acidity. Citrus zest and oils with pears and a little candied ginger. White flowers dance over the top with a little savoury hit. Flowing and luscious, chalky, savoury, spiced, sapidity in a cleansing way. Plenty of intrigue and interest here. An exceptio
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Vietti Derthona Timorasso Colli Tortonesi 2020

Timorasso | Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi

The latest addition to the Vietti portfolio sees a white from the eastern most border of the Piedmont region. A perfect fit for Vietti with regard to their history of working with varietals of merit that for one reason or another have diminished over time.Timorasso makes beautiful wine the Massa is a cracker. I can't wait to try Vietti's version. With a wonderful array of flavours, textures, and, wonderful acidity the variety is loaded with personality & intrigue.For the 2019: Th
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Vigneti Massa Timorasso 'Derthona' 2022
Delicious!

Vigneti Massa Timorasso ‘Derthona’ 2022

Timorasso | Italy, Colli Tortonesi

From near extinction the Massa family have saved Timorasso, for that I am truly thankful! Massa's Derthona is the perfect introduction to the serious end of the spectrum of Timorasso.The note is a dead ringer for the 2021 although there is perhaps an edge more energy, depth and length in the 2022.Excellent build in depth and length with excellent oxidative line that sits perfectly with fine acid and insane lemon oil and those mega lemons you could eat straight + apricot kernel.. Great de
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Explore all of our Timorasso!


Nascetta


The Saviour

Elvio Cogno with his plantings in Novello, Barolo is turning out intoxicating wines from Nascetta. As he says they need a year or 2 in bottle to reveal their full potential. Grab a 2019 to drink now and 2020 next summer!

Nascetta - Italy's answer to Gewurztraminer. Fragrant, spicy and fresh.This is a fun, youthful wine that is drinking well now but could possibly benefit from a little more time to develop, allowing the fruit and underlying structure to better harmonise. Wonderful aromas come swinging out of the glass, with pops of pity citrus, yellow stone fruits, white blossoms and a line of saline minerality. The palate marries ripe, juicy fruit with a savoury lines of lees and spicy white pepper; gentle p
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Erbaluce


The Champion

Erbaluce can make many styles of from sparkling, late harvest & passito wines.

Antoniolo’s is a wonderfully fresh and crunchy dry white style. The 2020 has settled, resolving beautifully over the last 6 months and is in a wonderful place.

Perfect summer drinking.

Antoniolo Erbaluce d’Caluso DOC 2022

Erbaluce | Italy, Alto Piemonte

If you've never tried Erbaluce before this is a bloody good place to start!Like Timorasso & Nascetta this is a varietal to watch!Tasting the 2020 it was clear that like Cogno's Nascetta, Antoniolo's Erbaluce benefits from a hear in bottle to settle.Notes on the 20202nd Taste Oct 2022 - Very Good, super racy zippy acid coming together nicely resolved filled out. Looks good fun crisp. Perfect summer drinking. Elevage is there. Spice, the overt traminer, savvy b herbaceous t
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Filters & Sorting

Giovanni Rosso Barolo ‘Serra’ 2021

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

Owned by the Rosso family since 1946, it was replanted in three phases: 1984, 1996 and 2003. La Serra is located about 1km south of the village of Serralunga in the upper part of the Serralunga commune.The 2021 Barolo Serra is soft, supple and inviting, with lovely mid-palate pliancy and soft contours to match. Crushed flowers, rose petal, cedar, sweet pipe tobacco and mint are nicely lifted in this tasty, approachable Barolo from Davide Rosso.Antonio Galloni, Vinous 93 Points
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Oddero Barolo 'Villero' 2016
Level Up!

Oddero Barolo ‘Villero’ 2016

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

Dark and brooding give it time and watch it blossom! Take the Barolo add 3 more layers for aroma, flavour and tannin. Ramp up the sophistication of the mouthfeel and you're kinda close to where the Villero sits. Dark and brooding give it time and watch it blossom! Awesome side by side with Sordo's Villero, very different in style. Both fantastic wines, you can see the common thread through the two.The 2016 has incredible energy, line and length, the tannins are superb. This is a Neb-Heads d
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Cogno Barolo ‘Bricco Pernice’ 2017

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

"This is a medium-bodied Nebbiolo from a hot vintage with a ruby-tinged appearance. The 2017 Barolo Ravera Bricco Pernice shows generous inner fiber and richness with dried cherry, blackberry, plum and dark spice. Fruit for this wine comes from a beautiful amphitheater of vines with the perched town of Novello high up on the skyline. I love the especially smooth and soft quality to what is a powerful and lasting wine. "Monica Larner, The Wine Advocate 95 Points
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'The 2019 Barolo Monvigliero shows a medium dark garnet appearance with an especially focused quality of fruit. There is wild cherry and Japanese plum, but the Monvigliero cru also delivers crushed rose, earthy iris root, candied orange peel with clove and dustings of black pepper. The wine is exceedingly silky and polished in texture, but its inherent complexity is never diminished. It should be interesting to revisit this bottle after the 10-year mark. This estate was the first to bottle a Mon
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E. Pira (Chiara Boschis) Barolo ‘Via Nuova’ 2021

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

This one’s an argument for blending sites! The Barolo Via Nuova is an organic blend of fruit from six MGA sites: Terlo and Liste (in Barolo), Ravera di Monforte and Mosconi (in Monforte d’Alba) and Gabutti and Baudana (in Serralunga d’Alba).This wine represents a blend of fruit from various sites, and 15,000 bottles were created. Showing a classical profile, the E. Pira e Figli - Chiara Boschis 2021 Barolo Via Nuova delivers a firm sense of inner fiber and richness with dark bluebe
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Giovanni Sordo Barolo Riserva 'Gabutti' 2008
The Bold!

Giovanni Sordo Barolo Riserva ‘Gabutti’ 2008

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

The 2008 Riserva we see the parallels with the 2015. The long structure is there, the complexity has built further, the wine is now fully comfortable wearing it's own skin, having resolved and built generosity. Of the 2015 it was clear that there was no chance to mistake the Gabutti, with its abundance of darker things; stock, porcini, graphite, smoke and black cherry. Under this very typical Serralunga ‘tarry/earthy’ mantle though, are other complexities of dried roses, orange and spices. T
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Sordo's Parussi always sits on the bolder side for the Cru, which it turns out has split soil types. Theirs being on soils more similar to those of Serralunga. The resulting structure shows in the wine. The 2008 is drinking beautifully, showing darker fruits and like the other 2008 Sordos seamless, with exceptional harmony and balance.This is such a great opportunity to look at different Crus in a horizontal from one producer!Matured Barolo straight from the cellars of Sordo ... Bring It
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It's fascinating the from one of Barolos Northern most Crus in Monvigliero, moving to one of the Southern most in Ravera from Novello we see two Crus that are more playful and expressive in their youth. Here we typically see supple tannins, oppulent red fruits with front to mid-palate attack. Again the metamorphosis only time can offer us really is something special.Here's a chance to see a Ravera with a decade+ of bottle age on it and find out just how it transforms!This is such a great
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Perno, always the darkest and most structured on release, is perhaps the wine in the Sordo Cru lineup that goes through the most dramatic metamorphosis with time. Monforte is the least defined of the Barolo Communes, the end result is a diversity of styles. Barolo from Monforte can have incredible power, darknesss and earthiness, less reliant on fruit than other communes, in recent times we have soon producers making finer, elegant, perfumed iterations. Sordo's Perno sits in the middle, perhaps
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Like the ‘Ignaccio’ Rosso di Montalcino ‘Iacopo’ Il Marroneto is a baby Brunello in that was grown with the intention of becoming so. A pure Sangiovese that was aged for a few months in large oak barrels this wine is an exciting new project that cements and displays Iacopo’s understanding of the vineyards and is exciting now and for years to come. Declassified fruit parcels from the Madonna delle Grazie vineyard.Deeply complex, the 2022 Rosso di Montalcino Iacopo waf
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Vietti Barbaresco ‘Masseria Roncaglie’ 2018

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barbaresco

In my view the Barbaresco Masseria is the most under-the-radar wine at Vietti....The 2018 marks an important transition for the Masseria which is a trademarked brand, not a vineyard, named for one of the hamlets within the Cottá sub-zone where Alfredo Currado first sourced fruit for this wine in the 1960s. Over the years vineyard sources for the Barbaresco have varied.... Beginning in 2018, the Masseria is made exclusively from a sizeable parcel in Roncaglie Vietti acquired from Socré. Vinous
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Fuligni Brunello di Montalcino 2017

Sangiovese | Montalcino, Italy

The Fuligni 2017 Brunello di Montalcino is a beautiful wine, and it shines a much-deserved spotlight on one of the most consistent estates in Montalcino. It is bright and luminous with a dark ruby shine. The bouquet reveals deeply layered tones of red cherry, wild berry, rose, earth and candied violets. Give the wine an extra twirl or two, and you get some rosemary and lavender. Soft dusty mineral and limestone also appear. I'd definitely put this bottle on a short list of the most recommended b
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