Location

Italy

Ahhh … Italy! Home of renaissance literature, philosophy, science and some of the most heart warming food in the world. From North to South it would be a fair guess to say the only thing outnumbering churches and Vespa’s are the vast areas of vineyards.

One thing is certain, you’ll never run short of choice!

First Records of Wine Production – Go back millennia!

Founding Figures – The Greek colonisation marked a shift from vine grown in the wild to planned viticulture around 800 BC the Romans dramatically expanded production around 200 BC. The Italians never looked back!

Area Planted – Around 700,000 hectares making around 19% of the world’s wine!

Number of Wineries – Soave alone is made by 3,500 producers. That’s around the same number of wineries as in all of Australia! From gargistes to industrial scale conglomerates every Italian has a winemaker in the family.

Established Regions – Every region in Italy produces wine! The most prestigious region Piedmont is home to the stunning Nebbiolos of Barolo & Barbaresco. The Chianti and Brunello of Tuscany following hot on Piedmont’s heals. These are just a drop in the ocean!

In typical Italian style the classification systems of each region vary and are often skewed by influential persons with much to gain over the quality of the industry. As always we need to rely on our taste buds as the ultimate decider of quality!

Most Common VarietiesIn his book ‘Native Wine Grapes of Italy’ Ian D’Agata documents around 500 Italian grape varieties, by no means the complete set! Around 350 of these have been granted authorized status. There’s plenty to try! We’ve seen a push to save some of the notable, rare varietals like the white Nascetta and Arneis from Piedmont. 

Whilst we have seen an ingress of French Varietals, the most notable being the Cabernet Varietals + Syrah used to make the Super Tuscans, the Italians have, by and large stayed true to their roots.

White – Whites of note: Arneis (Piedmont), Cataratto (Sicily), Fiano (southwest coast), Friulano (Friuli), Gargenaga (Veneto – the Soave grape), Greco di Tufo (southwest coast), Malvasia Bianca (throughout Italy), Moscato Blanc (Piedmont), Pecorino (Abruzzo), Pinot Grigo (Why?), Ribolla Gialla (Friulli), Trebbiano (Abruzzo), Verdicchio (Marche) and Vermentino (Sardinia, Tuscany and Liguria).

Red – Aglianico (Campania), Barbera (Piedmont), Corvina blended with Rondinella to make Amarone, Dolcetto (Piedmont), Malvasia Nera (Puglia), Montepuliciano (Tuscany), Nebbiolo (Piedmont), Negaromaro (Puglia), Nero d’Avola (Sicily), Primitivo (Puglia), Sagrantino (Umbria) and Sangiovese (Tuscany).

Up and Coming Regions – Beyond Barolo and Barbaresco, around the world we have seen Amarone, Chianti, Soave, Prosecco, Verdicchio and the wines of Puglia gain strong recognition. In recent times the increasing cost of Barolo in particular has seen exploration of Nebbiolo from Alto Piedmonte and Valtellina. At the opposite end of the country, in part due to the investment of heavy hitters like ‘Barolo Boy’ Marco di Grazie (Terre Nere) and Andrea Franchetti (Passopisciaro) the Nerello Mascelese (red) and Carricante (white) wines of Etna, Sicily have become world recognised. Nerello Mascelese being described as some as the Barolo of the South or a cross between Nebbiolo and Pinot. I prefer to call it delicious!


A Treasure Hunt for the Lost Whites of Italy!


Timorasso ~ Nascetta ~ Erbaluce

3 Italian Whites Saved from Extinction!

Of the thousands of grape varieties that exist, and even more clones of each variety, few make it into our glass.

Many have been lost. Economic reality making them not viable.

Advances in viticulture, changes in climate and the passion of a few individuals have saved a few!

For that we are thankful!


Timorasso


The Saviours

Walter & Claudio along with their shared cellarmaster ‘Pigi’ are both the saviours & masters of Timorasso! The hold some of the oldest plantings making wine of great complexity, texture. Composed & full of personality.

Walter describes his Derthona as a “Modern Antique”.

Monlia Colli Tortonesi Timorasso 2021

Timorasso | Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi

Released 6 months later than the 2020 and it shows immediately. The extra time offers up a beautifully resolved wine. There’s something about the texture, aroma and flavour profile of good Italian white. That silvery line of bitterness that graces the finish. Out to play, seamless, the texture is refined with an excellent phenolic play married to fine acid. When Pietro visited Wine Deoced HQ we talked of the gentle development large oak casks offer whilst retaining freshness in a wine. This is
$60
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NOTE on the 2022: An excellent follow up to the 2021. A slightly more generous iteration. All of the elements once again at play. Texture, clever use of oxidative handling to build intrigue whilst maintaining a core of vibrant fruit and mineral acidity. Citrus zest and oils with pears and a little candied ginger. White flowers dance over the top with a little savoury hit. Flowing and luscious, chalky, savoury, spiced, sapidity in a cleansing way. Plenty of intrigue and interest here. An exceptio
$60
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$54ea in any 6+

Vietti Derthona Timorasso Colli Tortonesi 2020

Timorasso | Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi

The latest addition to the Vietti portfolio sees a white from the eastern most border of the Piedmont region. A perfect fit for Vietti with regard to their history of working with varietals of merit that for one reason or another have diminished over time.Timorasso makes beautiful wine the Massa is a cracker. I can't wait to try Vietti's version. With a wonderful array of flavours, textures, and, wonderful acidity the variety is loaded with personality & intrigue.For the 2019: Th
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Vigneti Massa Timorasso 'Derthona' 2022
Delicious!

Vigneti Massa Timorasso ‘Derthona’ 2022

Timorasso | Italy, Colli Tortonesi

From near extinction the Massa family have saved Timorasso, for that I am truly thankful! Massa's Derthona is the perfect introduction to the serious end of the spectrum of Timorasso.The note is a dead ringer for the 2021 although there is perhaps an edge more energy, depth and length in the 2022.Excellent build in depth and length with excellent oxidative line that sits perfectly with fine acid and insane lemon oil and those mega lemons you could eat straight + apricot kernel.. Great de
$80
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Explore all of our Timorasso!


Nascetta


The Saviour

Elvio Cogno with his plantings in Novello, Barolo is turning out intoxicating wines from Nascetta. As he says they need a year or 2 in bottle to reveal their full potential. Grab a 2019 to drink now and 2020 next summer!

Nascetta - Italy's answer to Gewurztraminer. Fragrant, spicy and fresh.This is a fun, youthful wine that is drinking well now but could possibly benefit from a little more time to develop, allowing the fruit and underlying structure to better harmonise. Wonderful aromas come swinging out of the glass, with pops of pity citrus, yellow stone fruits, white blossoms and a line of saline minerality. The palate marries ripe, juicy fruit with a savoury lines of lees and spicy white pepper; gentle p
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Erbaluce


The Champion

Erbaluce can make many styles of from sparkling, late harvest & passito wines.

Antoniolo’s is a wonderfully fresh and crunchy dry white style. The 2020 has settled, resolving beautifully over the last 6 months and is in a wonderful place.

Perfect summer drinking.

Antoniolo Erbaluce d’Caluso DOC 2022

Erbaluce | Italy, Alto Piemonte

If you've never tried Erbaluce before this is a bloody good place to start!Like Timorasso & Nascetta this is a varietal to watch!Tasting the 2020 it was clear that like Cogno's Nascetta, Antoniolo's Erbaluce benefits from a hear in bottle to settle.Notes on the 20202nd Taste Oct 2022 - Very Good, super racy zippy acid coming together nicely resolved filled out. Looks good fun crisp. Perfect summer drinking. Elevage is there. Spice, the overt traminer, savvy b herbaceous t
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Filters & Sorting

Giovanni Rosso Barolo ‘Serra’ 2019

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

Wow! Exceptional drinking. Beautifully weighted incredible mid-palate depth of flavour. Intensity and delicacy, now there's a trick. So fine long. Beautifully developed. More layers than a Mille Feuille. Stunning translucent, complex & beguilling.Owned by the Rosso family since 1946, it was replanted in three phases: 1984, 1996 and 2003. La Serra is located about 1km south of the village of Serralunga in the upper part of the Serralunga commune.Paul Kaan, WINE DECODED Aug 2023
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Giovanni Rosso Barolo ‘Cerretta’ 2019

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

Owned by the Rosso family since 1920, the plot was partly replanted in 1984 and 2000. Situated about 2 miles (3km) to the north of Serralunga village, Cerretta lies close to the hamlet of Baudana and envelops that of Cerretta.The fruit for this Cru wine comes from the best parcel which is shaped like an amphitheatre facing south-east. This part of the vineyard provides a particularly good micro-climate for Nebbiolo since it is protected from stronger winds by the copse at the bottom of the s
$237
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Giovanni Sordo Barolo 'Villero' 2015
The Super Stars!

Giovanni Sordo Barolo ‘Villero’ 2015

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

Incredible perfume, so much intrigue. Felt like I was drinking and exceptional Chambolle-Musigny. Line and length of tannin and acid. Such harmony, beautiful fruit. Layers of tannin and flavour, great complexity. I love this! The most ‘Burgundian’ of these 8 cru, shimmering and transparent, signalling the elegance and finesse to unfold. A beautiful and intriguing wine with those Castiglione complexities of cranberry, strawberry, cherry-skin, dried flowers and herbs. Tannins are beautifully b
$238
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Giovanni Sordo Barolo 'Villero' 2016
The Super Stars!

Giovanni Sordo Barolo ‘Villero’ 2016

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

As tight as ... usual. Opens to quite pronounced pot-purri and some fresh-flower fragrance. Fabulously framed full palate with unevolved but full, textured, firm and forceful. Long. Seamless acid/tannin of Castiglione (and St Julien) Tight knit, this one. Wonderful. Crystal clear. Darker more broody than the 2015 which had a few more months off the boat when I first saw it. Fresh and vibrant / energetic. Bold, yet very good long, layered slatey tannins compared with the 2015. Wonderful texture h
$238
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Nervi-Conterno Gattinara 2020

Nebbiolo | Italy, Gattinara

Historically these wines have had Amazing transparency, sophistication shining though. Alto Piemonte saw another productive vintage in 2020 with no significant hail or frost events. It was a warm year with well-timed rains and a harvest that started early, but not excessively so. Early indications are of a strong set of wines.Looking forward to trying this when it hits the warehouse. Grab a set Conterno's Sensory Glasses to swirl it around in too!The 2020 Gattinara is elegant and lif
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Giacomo Conterno Barbera d’Alba ‘Francia’ 2022

Barbera | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

Brooding dark fruits, mineral wet rock and graphite notes underpinned by sapid salinity that complements and creates interest. The palate is lush and powerful. A lot going on.
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This is an impressive beverage! There are things happening here that are very good. The textural elements: dusty, even long tannins, that are just a little bolder than the 2015 and will benefit from 3-5 years before you crack a bottle. The fading flowers are more prominent than in the classico and red fruit more dominant with excellent length and delicacy. It has wonderful development, layered complexity that you need not pick apart. Simply enjoy a wine full of personality.A consistent r
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Conti Costanti Brunello di Montalcino 2018

Sangiovese | Tuscany, Italy

The 2018 Brunello di Montalcino is a spice box, bursting from the glass with a tour de force of cloves, cinnamon sticks, mint, lavender, dried strawberries and freshly sliced vanilla bean. For all of its extroverted character on the nose, this is a delicate beauty on the palate, cool-toned and finessed, with violet-tinged red berries and exotic spice motivated by brisk acidity. It conveys a pleasant staining of fine tannins that lingers long, yet the character is only lightly structured and tape
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Fuligni Brunello di Montalcino 2018

Sangiovese | Tuscany, Italy

The Fuligni 2018 Brunello di Montalcino stands out for its smooth integration of aromas and the carefully balanced intensity achieved here, which shows momentum but also remains very fine and nuanced. There are many sides to the bouquet with wild fruit, cassis, crushed stone, candied orange and fresh herbs or rosemary. A floral note also appears that suggests rose or iris root. The tannins are very well managed and silky. You hardly feel them, yet the wine offers firm structure throughout. This
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Albino Rocca ‘Angelo’ Barbaresco 2019

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barbaresco

In hommage to Angelo this goes back to his father’s days when blending was the norm. A truly beautiful blend. The gentle fruit handling and longer maceration or lunga macerazione (55 days here) has yielded a lovely perfume, a savoury core of fruit with delicacy and persistence. The tannins are wonderful. There’s a little truffle, a little liquorice, a little of lots of things coming to play. This is a wine worthy of being a hommage! Each parcel is picked separately, 3-4 days apart, and added
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Luigi Baudana Barolo ‘Baudana’ 2016

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

Nebbiolo, Barolo, Serralunga, Baudana, 2013 = Enough Said! The 2016 Barolo Baudana is laced with sweet red cherry, floral overtones and silky tannins, all of which make it one of the more refined, sensual Serralunga Barolos readers will come across. In this tasting, the Baudana impresses with its haunting aromatics and transparent expression of Nebbiolo. Like all of these wines, it needs time in bottle but it is super impressive, even in the early going.Galloni
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Albino Rocca ‘Angelo’ Barbaresco 2017

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barbaresco

In hommage to Angelo this goes back to his father’s days when blending was the norm. A truly beautiful blend. The gentle fruit handling and longer maceration or lunga macerazione (55 days here) has yielded a lovely perfume, a savoury core of fruit with delicacy and persistence. The tannins are wonderful. There’s a little truffle, a little liquorice, a little of lots of things coming to play. This is a wine worthy of being a hommage! Each parcel is picked separately, 3-4 days apart, and added
$245
$235ea in any 3+
$225ea in any 6+