Location

Italy

Ahhh … Italy! Home of renaissance literature, philosophy, science and some of the most heart warming food in the world. From North to South it would be a fair guess to say the only thing outnumbering churches and Vespa’s are the vast areas of vineyards.

One thing is certain, you’ll never run short of choice!

First Records of Wine Production – Go back millennia!

Founding Figures – The Greek colonisation marked a shift from vine grown in the wild to planned viticulture around 800 BC the Romans dramatically expanded production around 200 BC. The Italians never looked back!

Area Planted – Around 700,000 hectares making around 19% of the world’s wine!

Number of Wineries – Soave alone is made by 3,500 producers. That’s around the same number of wineries as in all of Australia! From gargistes to industrial scale conglomerates every Italian has a winemaker in the family.

Established Regions – Every region in Italy produces wine! The most prestigious region Piedmont is home to the stunning Nebbiolos of Barolo & Barbaresco. The Chianti and Brunello of Tuscany following hot on Piedmont’s heals. These are just a drop in the ocean!

In typical Italian style the classification systems of each region vary and are often skewed by influential persons with much to gain over the quality of the industry. As always we need to rely on our taste buds as the ultimate decider of quality!

Most Common VarietiesIn his book ‘Native Wine Grapes of Italy’ Ian D’Agata documents around 500 Italian grape varieties, by no means the complete set! Around 350 of these have been granted authorized status. There’s plenty to try! We’ve seen a push to save some of the notable, rare varietals like the white Nascetta and Arneis from Piedmont. 

Whilst we have seen an ingress of French Varietals, the most notable being the Cabernet Varietals + Syrah used to make the Super Tuscans, the Italians have, by and large stayed true to their roots.

White – Whites of note: Arneis (Piedmont), Cataratto (Sicily), Fiano (southwest coast), Friulano (Friuli), Gargenaga (Veneto – the Soave grape), Greco di Tufo (southwest coast), Malvasia Bianca (throughout Italy), Moscato Blanc (Piedmont), Pecorino (Abruzzo), Pinot Grigo (Why?), Ribolla Gialla (Friulli), Trebbiano (Abruzzo), Verdicchio (Marche) and Vermentino (Sardinia, Tuscany and Liguria).

Red – Aglianico (Campania), Barbera (Piedmont), Corvina blended with Rondinella to make Amarone, Dolcetto (Piedmont), Malvasia Nera (Puglia), Montepuliciano (Tuscany), Nebbiolo (Piedmont), Negaromaro (Puglia), Nero d’Avola (Sicily), Primitivo (Puglia), Sagrantino (Umbria) and Sangiovese (Tuscany).

Up and Coming Regions – Beyond Barolo and Barbaresco, around the world we have seen Amarone, Chianti, Soave, Prosecco, Verdicchio and the wines of Puglia gain strong recognition. In recent times the increasing cost of Barolo in particular has seen exploration of Nebbiolo from Alto Piedmonte and Valtellina. At the opposite end of the country, in part due to the investment of heavy hitters like ‘Barolo Boy’ Marco di Grazie (Terre Nere) and Andrea Franchetti (Passopisciaro) the Nerello Mascelese (red) and Carricante (white) wines of Etna, Sicily have become world recognised. Nerello Mascelese being described as some as the Barolo of the South or a cross between Nebbiolo and Pinot. I prefer to call it delicious!


A Treasure Hunt for the Lost Whites of Italy!


Timorasso ~ Nascetta ~ Erbaluce

3 Italian Whites Saved from Extinction!

Of the thousands of grape varieties that exist, and even more clones of each variety, few make it into our glass.

Many have been lost. Economic reality making them not viable.

Advances in viticulture, changes in climate and the passion of a few individuals have saved a few!

For that we are thankful!


Timorasso


The Saviours

Walter & Claudio along with their shared cellarmaster ‘Pigi’ are both the saviours & masters of Timorasso! The hold some of the oldest plantings making wine of great complexity, texture. Composed & full of personality.

Walter describes his Derthona as a “Modern Antique”.

Monlia Colli Tortonesi Timorasso 2021

Timorasso | Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi

Released 6 months later than the 2020 and it shows immediately. The extra time offers up a beautifully resolved wine. There’s something about the texture, aroma and flavour profile of good Italian white. That silvery line of bitterness that graces the finish. Out to play, seamless, the texture is refined with an excellent phenolic play married to fine acid. When Pietro visited Wine Deoced HQ we talked of the gentle development large oak casks offer whilst retaining freshness in a wine. This is
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NOTE on the 2022: An excellent follow up to the 2021. A slightly more generous iteration. All of the elements once again at play. Texture, clever use of oxidative handling to build intrigue whilst maintaining a core of vibrant fruit and mineral acidity. Citrus zest and oils with pears and a little candied ginger. White flowers dance over the top with a little savoury hit. Flowing and luscious, chalky, savoury, spiced, sapidity in a cleansing way. Plenty of intrigue and interest here. An exceptio
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Vietti Derthona Timorasso Colli Tortonesi 2020

Timorasso | Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi

The latest addition to the Vietti portfolio sees a white from the eastern most border of the Piedmont region. A perfect fit for Vietti with regard to their history of working with varietals of merit that for one reason or another have diminished over time.Timorasso makes beautiful wine the Massa is a cracker. I can't wait to try Vietti's version. With a wonderful array of flavours, textures, and, wonderful acidity the variety is loaded with personality & intrigue.For the 2019: Th
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Vigneti Massa Timorasso 'Derthona' 2022
Delicious!

Vigneti Massa Timorasso ‘Derthona’ 2022

Timorasso | Italy, Colli Tortonesi

From near extinction the Massa family have saved Timorasso, for that I am truly thankful! Massa's Derthona is the perfect introduction to the serious end of the spectrum of Timorasso.The note is a dead ringer for the 2021 although there is perhaps an edge more energy, depth and length in the 2022.Excellent build in depth and length with excellent oxidative line that sits perfectly with fine acid and insane lemon oil and those mega lemons you could eat straight + apricot kernel.. Great de
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Explore all of our Timorasso!


Nascetta


The Saviour

Elvio Cogno with his plantings in Novello, Barolo is turning out intoxicating wines from Nascetta. As he says they need a year or 2 in bottle to reveal their full potential. Grab a 2019 to drink now and 2020 next summer!

Nascetta - Italy's answer to Gewurztraminer. Fragrant, spicy and fresh.This is a fun, youthful wine that is drinking well now but could possibly benefit from a little more time to develop, allowing the fruit and underlying structure to better harmonise. Wonderful aromas come swinging out of the glass, with pops of pity citrus, yellow stone fruits, white blossoms and a line of saline minerality. The palate marries ripe, juicy fruit with a savoury lines of lees and spicy white pepper; gentle p
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Erbaluce


The Champion

Erbaluce can make many styles of from sparkling, late harvest & passito wines.

Antoniolo’s is a wonderfully fresh and crunchy dry white style. The 2020 has settled, resolving beautifully over the last 6 months and is in a wonderful place.

Perfect summer drinking.

Antoniolo Erbaluce d’Caluso DOC 2022

Erbaluce | Italy, Alto Piemonte

If you've never tried Erbaluce before this is a bloody good place to start!Like Timorasso & Nascetta this is a varietal to watch!Tasting the 2020 it was clear that like Cogno's Nascetta, Antoniolo's Erbaluce benefits from a hear in bottle to settle.Notes on the 20202nd Taste Oct 2022 - Very Good, super racy zippy acid coming together nicely resolved filled out. Looks good fun crisp. Perfect summer drinking. Elevage is there. Spice, the overt traminer, savvy b herbaceous t
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Filters & Sorting

Giovanni Sordo Barolo ‘Villero’ 2019

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

Superb! An excellent Villero. Complete, pure, elegant, refined, such harmony in its youth bodes well for a little something special with the passage of time. The first time I had Sordo’s Villero was the 2015 and it blew my mind. 2013, 2016, 2017 followed. All superb. The 2019 is right up there. Seriously good.Right now across all the 2019's the acid sits marginally proud. For wines of this calibre I'm stoked to see the balance where it’s at in their youth. In just a few years it will r
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Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino 2019

Sangiovese | Tuscany, Italy

Brooding yet intense, the 2019 Brunello di Montalcino bursts from the glass with a wave of autumnal spices, crushed cherries, cedar shavings and steeped plums lifted by pine hints. This is deeply textural, elegant and refined, with a dense wave of ripe wild berry fruits, all guided by vibrant acidity, offset by oranges and balsam herbs. It finishes grippy and extended with a black hole of tension and a sweet and sour sensation that lingers on and on as crunchy tannins resonate throughout. The 20
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The 2017 Barolo Mosconi is a powerful, brooding wine. Black cherry, gravel, dried herbs, scorched earth, spice and leather add to an impression of gravitas. This is an especially somber, potent Barolo that needs time to soften. Even so, it will always be a brute. The substantial finish is a thing of beauty. The Barolo Mosconi emerges from the estates oldest vines, which are 70-80 years old, and is aged in barrique.Galloni
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The 2017 Amarone della Valpolicella dazzles with a remarkably fresh and perfumed bouquet, as spiced citrus rinds and dusty cherries are complemented by violet and lavender nuances. This is total elegance on the palate, seamlessly silky and enveloping, with a core of mineral-tinged acidity that helps to invigorate its depths of dark red fruit and exotic spice. The 2017 lingers on with a primary saturation and coating of sweet tannins as blood-orange traces resonate under an air of purple-toned in
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Pieropan Soave C5 ‘Vini dell Anima’

White Blend | Veneto, Italy

A remarkable wine 15 years in the making! Calvarino 5 is the first wine of the "Vini dell'Anima" collection. Born from a project by Leonildo Pieropan and his sons Dario and Andrea, it is a blend of five Calvarino vintages (2008-2009-2010-2011-2012) aged for at least 10 years in large cement tanks on lees in the cellar. Ageing this way in Pieropan's cool cellars is slow and controlled. This is a fascinating wine highlighting the incredible results blending across vintages can deliver.Cool
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Luigi Baudana Barolo ‘Baudana’ 2019

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

Nebbiolo, Barolo, Serralunga, Baudana = Enough Said! The 2019 Barolo Baudana is absolutely captivating. Effusive and bright in the glass, with tons of freshness and remarkable fruit purity, the Baudana offers up generous dark red fruit, spice, leather, kirsch, hard candy, cedar, tobacco and underbrush. There's terrific depth here and exceptional balance, too. Rose petal, white pepper and chalk lift the high-toned, intensely saline finish.Antonio Galloni, Vinous 96 Points 94 ML
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Margherita Otto ‘M8’ Barolo 2017

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

This one's another argument for blending sites! From a disciple of Maria Theresa Mascarello. The 2017 M8 is a blend of Castiglione Falletto, Monforte & Serralunga fruit! I rarely buy wine site unseen. I did so with the 2016 M8. I couldn’t resist! The story and experience behind Allan Manley’s launch of his own venture has seen him work with a veritable who’s who of Barolo ending with Maria Theresa Mascarello where he still works. As you might expect he’s a proponent of blended Barolo vs

Fontodi Vigna del Sorbo Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2018

Sangiovese | Tuscany, Chianti Classico

The 2018 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Vigna del Sorbo is quite possibly the most elegant, refined version of this wine I have ever tasted. It does not offer the immediacy or impact of either the 2015 or 2016, but, instead, impresses with its elegance, persistence and total class. Bright floral and spice notes add perfume to a core of red-toned fruit. The 2018 represents another move towards greater finesse at Fontodi. It spent a year in French oak barrel and a second year in cask.Antonio
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The 2017 Barolo Monvigliero marries the raciness of the year with the floral lift and elegance of this great Verduno site. More than anything, the 2017 is a Barolo of pure and total sensuality. Even so, there is more than enough tannin to allow the 2017 to drink well for many years to come. It is very clearly one of the wines of the vintage. The rich, substantial finish is a thing of real beauty.Antonio Galloni, Vinous
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The first time we’ve managed to squeeze out an allocation of ‘San Francesco’ Saint Francesco. We are very happy!Stepping up to the two single vineyards the depth and length build. Darker and brooding, a slight reductive note washes away to reveal a savoury, truffled layer over those woody herbs. Slatey with mineral acids, sitting marginally prouder than in the other 2 Riservas and tannins of balanced grip. Finishing with lingering fruit.Given a decade the acid resolves this will
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Isole e Olena 'Cepparello' 2019
🇮🇹Benchmark Sangio🍷

Isole e Olena ‘Cepparello’ 2019

Sangiovese | Tuscany, Barberino Val d'Elsa

Isole e Olena's top wine. Always a pleasure. Year after year they seem to be drawing even more delicious expressions of Sangiovese from this special parcel of fruit! 'Cepparello' is named after the valley where the vineyard is planted. The last bottle I had of this was a 2006 a month ago, thanks Chris. It was superb, great harmony poise and balance. A real generosity to the wine. Beautiful secondary characters. Looking forward to trying the 2019."One of the icon wines of Tuscany, the Iso
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Sottimano Barbaresco ‘Currá’ 2016

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barbaresco

My cup overfloweth! Barbaresco kicking it up a gear! My first taste of a Sottimano. WOW! This is stunning. Such a complete wine. It has everything and all the right places. A density and richness of dark fruit. Long, lingering and delicious. The richness is perfectly tempered by exceptional tannins of depth. This has been expertly macerated, the time on skins during ferment and just following the completion of the alcoholic fermentation is apparently around 40 days. That time has woven, truffles
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