Location

Italy

Ahhh … Italy! Home of renaissance literature, philosophy, science and some of the most heart warming food in the world. From North to South it would be a fair guess to say the only thing outnumbering churches and Vespa’s are the vast areas of vineyards.

One thing is certain, you’ll never run short of choice!

First Records of Wine Production – Go back millennia!

Founding Figures – The Greek colonisation marked a shift from vine grown in the wild to planned viticulture around 800 BC the Romans dramatically expanded production around 200 BC. The Italians never looked back!

Area Planted – Around 700,000 hectares making around 19% of the world’s wine!

Number of Wineries – Soave alone is made by 3,500 producers. That’s around the same number of wineries as in all of Australia! From gargistes to industrial scale conglomerates every Italian has a winemaker in the family.

Established Regions – Every region in Italy produces wine! The most prestigious region Piedmont is home to the stunning Nebbiolos of Barolo & Barbaresco. The Chianti and Brunello of Tuscany following hot on Piedmont’s heals. These are just a drop in the ocean!

In typical Italian style the classification systems of each region vary and are often skewed by influential persons with much to gain over the quality of the industry. As always we need to rely on our taste buds as the ultimate decider of quality!

Most Common VarietiesIn his book ‘Native Wine Grapes of Italy’ Ian D’Agata documents around 500 Italian grape varieties, by no means the complete set! Around 350 of these have been granted authorized status. There’s plenty to try! We’ve seen a push to save some of the notable, rare varietals like the white Nascetta and Arneis from Piedmont. 

Whilst we have seen an ingress of French Varietals, the most notable being the Cabernet Varietals + Syrah used to make the Super Tuscans, the Italians have, by and large stayed true to their roots.

White – Whites of note: Arneis (Piedmont), Cataratto (Sicily), Fiano (southwest coast), Friulano (Friuli), Gargenaga (Veneto – the Soave grape), Greco di Tufo (southwest coast), Malvasia Bianca (throughout Italy), Moscato Blanc (Piedmont), Pecorino (Abruzzo), Pinot Grigo (Why?), Ribolla Gialla (Friulli), Trebbiano (Abruzzo), Verdicchio (Marche) and Vermentino (Sardinia, Tuscany and Liguria).

Red – Aglianico (Campania), Barbera (Piedmont), Corvina blended with Rondinella to make Amarone, Dolcetto (Piedmont), Malvasia Nera (Puglia), Montepuliciano (Tuscany), Nebbiolo (Piedmont), Negaromaro (Puglia), Nero d’Avola (Sicily), Primitivo (Puglia), Sagrantino (Umbria) and Sangiovese (Tuscany).

Up and Coming Regions – Beyond Barolo and Barbaresco, around the world we have seen Amarone, Chianti, Soave, Prosecco, Verdicchio and the wines of Puglia gain strong recognition. In recent times the increasing cost of Barolo in particular has seen exploration of Nebbiolo from Alto Piedmonte and Valtellina. At the opposite end of the country, in part due to the investment of heavy hitters like ‘Barolo Boy’ Marco di Grazie (Terre Nere) and Andrea Franchetti (Passopisciaro) the Nerello Mascelese (red) and Carricante (white) wines of Etna, Sicily have become world recognised. Nerello Mascelese being described as some as the Barolo of the South or a cross between Nebbiolo and Pinot. I prefer to call it delicious!


A Treasure Hunt for the Lost Whites of Italy!


Timorasso ~ Nascetta ~ Erbaluce

3 Italian Whites Saved from Extinction!

Of the thousands of grape varieties that exist, and even more clones of each variety, few make it into our glass.

Many have been lost. Economic reality making them not viable.

Advances in viticulture, changes in climate and the passion of a few individuals have saved a few!

For that we are thankful!


Timorasso


The Saviours

Walter & Claudio along with their shared cellarmaster ‘Pigi’ are both the saviours & masters of Timorasso! The hold some of the oldest plantings making wine of great complexity, texture. Composed & full of personality.

Walter describes his Derthona as a “Modern Antique”.

Monlia Colli Tortonesi Timorasso 2021

Timorasso | Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi

Released 6 months later than the 2020 and it shows immediately. The extra time offers up a beautifully resolved wine. There’s something about the texture, aroma and flavour profile of good Italian white. That silvery line of bitterness that graces the finish. Out to play, seamless, the texture is refined with an excellent phenolic play married to fine acid. When Pietro visited Wine Deoced HQ we talked of the gentle development large oak casks offer whilst retaining freshness in a wine. This is
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NOTE on the 2022: An excellent follow up to the 2021. A slightly more generous iteration. All of the elements once again at play. Texture, clever use of oxidative handling to build intrigue whilst maintaining a core of vibrant fruit and mineral acidity. Citrus zest and oils with pears and a little candied ginger. White flowers dance over the top with a little savoury hit. Flowing and luscious, chalky, savoury, spiced, sapidity in a cleansing way. Plenty of intrigue and interest here. An exceptio
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Vietti Derthona Timorasso Colli Tortonesi 2020

Timorasso | Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi

The latest addition to the Vietti portfolio sees a white from the eastern most border of the Piedmont region. A perfect fit for Vietti with regard to their history of working with varietals of merit that for one reason or another have diminished over time.Timorasso makes beautiful wine the Massa is a cracker. I can't wait to try Vietti's version. With a wonderful array of flavours, textures, and, wonderful acidity the variety is loaded with personality & intrigue.For the 2019: Th
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Vigneti Massa Timorasso 'Derthona' 2022
Delicious!

Vigneti Massa Timorasso ‘Derthona’ 2022

Timorasso | Italy, Colli Tortonesi

From near extinction the Massa family have saved Timorasso, for that I am truly thankful! Massa's Derthona is the perfect introduction to the serious end of the spectrum of Timorasso.The note is a dead ringer for the 2021 although there is perhaps an edge more energy, depth and length in the 2022.Excellent build in depth and length with excellent oxidative line that sits perfectly with fine acid and insane lemon oil and those mega lemons you could eat straight + apricot kernel.. Great de
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Explore all of our Timorasso!


Nascetta


The Saviour

Elvio Cogno with his plantings in Novello, Barolo is turning out intoxicating wines from Nascetta. As he says they need a year or 2 in bottle to reveal their full potential. Grab a 2019 to drink now and 2020 next summer!

Nascetta - Italy's answer to Gewurztraminer. Fragrant, spicy and fresh.This is a fun, youthful wine that is drinking well now but could possibly benefit from a little more time to develop, allowing the fruit and underlying structure to better harmonise. Wonderful aromas come swinging out of the glass, with pops of pity citrus, yellow stone fruits, white blossoms and a line of saline minerality. The palate marries ripe, juicy fruit with a savoury lines of lees and spicy white pepper; gentle p
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Erbaluce


The Champion

Erbaluce can make many styles of from sparkling, late harvest & passito wines.

Antoniolo’s is a wonderfully fresh and crunchy dry white style. The 2020 has settled, resolving beautifully over the last 6 months and is in a wonderful place.

Perfect summer drinking.

Antoniolo Erbaluce d’Caluso DOC 2022

Erbaluce | Italy, Alto Piemonte

If you've never tried Erbaluce before this is a bloody good place to start!Like Timorasso & Nascetta this is a varietal to watch!Tasting the 2020 it was clear that like Cogno's Nascetta, Antoniolo's Erbaluce benefits from a hear in bottle to settle.Notes on the 20202nd Taste Oct 2022 - Very Good, super racy zippy acid coming together nicely resolved filled out. Looks good fun crisp. Perfect summer drinking. Elevage is there. Spice, the overt traminer, savvy b herbaceous t
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Filters & Sorting

Giovanni Sordo Barolo 'Rocche di Castiglione' 2013
The Super Stars!
"Very serious and brooding nose, with rusty iron and fresh blood. Super-layered palate with depth and great presence. Palate is pretty and delicate, yet also very serious with a deep core of darker fruit, rusty iron and some fresh leather. Great length with lovely lingering tannins." Peter Godden, Neb Guru. Fabulous, both in itself and as a contrast to Villero. Where Villero is delicate and persistent, all finesse, Rocche is much more forceful with a similar range of characters. Everything is d
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Giovanni Sordo Barolo 'Perno' 2013
The Bold!

Giovanni Sordo Barolo ‘Perno’ 2013

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

Bigger than most other wines, with more grunt in all respects. Complex. Chewy and very full palate with a wall of tannins. Meaty flavours with some ironstone. Old-school. Peter Godden, Neb Guru This is all Monforte, with giveaway blue fruits, violet, cherry liqueur and some mint. Firm, taut and fleshy, this is typical of this part of Perno, the Cerretta parcel, immediately adjoining Conterno-Fantino’s, with which it shares a similar darker ‘blue’ style. Tannins seem very ripe this year�
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Giovanni Sordo Barolo 'Ravera' 2013
The Playful!

Giovanni Sordo Barolo ‘Ravera’ 2013

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

Ravera = generosity with crunchy fruit and playful front mid-palate tannin, that Sordo élévage, so much fun! ‘Ravishing red’ as usual, a wave of roses and red cherry. Quite lush, but holds its shape as all that red rolls to the pinpoint, tingling finish. It’s no wonder Ravera has risen so much in people’s estimation over recent years. Serious Barolo of a distinct style. Big and dense in colour, and all other respects. Big and chewy in mouth, yet fine line and varietal shape, with rich
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The single best Dardi Le Rose I've seen from Poderi Colla. Serious wine, yet, with a playful side. Excellent tannins, depth and length. A dark note melds into red fruits. Fresh, energetic & layered.  Structured Monforte Tannins with a beautifully weighted presence.Lovely perfume. Earthy, forest floor, with a dash of licorice/tar + so much more going on already! A few years in bottle will see it through the first phase of development and into a very happy place. Plenty of legs on it and
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Vietti Barbaresco ‘Masseria’ 2015

Nebbiolo | Barbaresco, Italy

Grapes: 100% Nebbiolo Winemaking: The grapes are harvested from vineyard located Treiso. The vineyard has a southern exposure with a mix of clay and limestone in the soil. During the alcoholic fermentation, the must will remain for approximately 3 weeks in open-top stainless-steel tanks. Daily délestages, punching downs and open-air pumping overs are actioned daily. The malolactic […]
Oddero Barolo 'Villero' 2015
Level Up!

Oddero Barolo ‘Villero’ 2015

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

Dark and brooding give it time and watch it blossom! Take the Barolo add 3 more layers for aroma, flavour and tannin. Ramp up the sophistication of the mouthfeel and you're kinda close to where the Villero sits. Dark and brooding give it time and watch it blossom! Awesome side by side with Sordo's Villero, very different in style but both fantastic wines.A couple left then pre-order for January arrival.
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E. Pira (Chiara Boschis) Barolo ‘Via Nuova’ 2017

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Italy

This one's an argument for blending sites! The 2017 Barolo Via Nuova is a blend of seven plots from Barolo, Monforte & Serralunga! This one’s an argument for blending sites! The 2017 Barolo Via Nuova is a blend of seven plots, many of which you will have seen as Cru wines from other makers. From the Commune of Barolo: Terlo, Liste, Paiagallo. From the Commune of Monfote d’Alba: Ravera di Monforte, Mosconi. From the Commune of Serralunga d’Alba: Gabutti and Baudana.The 2017 Barolo Via N
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The second of Fratelli Alessandria’s Crus from Verduno that sits immediately next to Monvigliero.'This vineyard delivers slightly more concentrated fruit and a medium-dark appearance from loamy calcareous soils. The 2019 Barolo San Lorenzo di Verduno delivers more oomph and power with ripe cherry, blackcurrant, dark spice and earthy aromas. Fratelli Alessandria makes some of the most harmonious wines in Verduno, and that quality comes through beautifully in this wine, despite the sligh
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Voliero Brunello di Montalcino 2019

Sangiovese | Tuscany, Italy

The sister to the Uccelliera brother, same winery, same maker, different fruit, and personality! Many who have tasted both the Uccelliera and Voliero Brunello over a number of years remark that they prefer the Uccelliera in the cooler years, and the Voliero in the bolder years. 2019 like 2016 has somehow managed to make the choice a little harder.A mentholated freshness introduces the 2019 Brunello di Montalcino, as a vibrant wave of crushed cherries, mint leaf, clove and dusty roses mak
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Sottimano Barbaresco ‘Basarin’ 2016

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barbaresco

Pair this up with the Currá and have a little Neb-Festa! Having two wines side by side from adjacent vineyards is always fun. Inevitably it's a demonstration in just how much varriation there is between vineyards with very short distances between them. They house style is evident. Basarin has a more elegant feel to it over the richer Currá, though it is still has a bit of weight to it. Normally, I am not an advocate of new oak in Barolo or Barbaresco. Here there is just a lick here from 10% ne
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Oddero Barolo 'Rocche di Castiglione' 2017
Rare as Hens' teeth!
Rocche di Castiglione has to be one of my favourite Crus. The wines have incredible harmony, they are just so complete.I haven't had the chance to try this. I have devoured the 2017 Villero from just around the corner. Given Oddero's consistency through their range I'd say you're in for very safe bet here!The 2017 Barolo Rocche di Castiglione is a beautiful wine that captures the natural intensity of the year while maintaining the style of the site. Silky aromatic and wonderfully nua
Original price was: $215.Current price is: $195.
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The 2017 Barolo Gramolere is a powerful, tightly wound wine full of Monforte tension. Readers will have to be patient. Dark-fleshed fruit, spice, menthol, licorice and sage add layers of aromatic intrigue to this firm, hulky Barolo. The 2017 takes all the Gramolere signatures and turns up the volume.Antonio Galloni, Vinous
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