Location

Italy

Ahhh … Italy! Home of renaissance literature, philosophy, science and some of the most heart warming food in the world. From North to South it would be a fair guess to say the only thing outnumbering churches and Vespa’s are the vast areas of vineyards.

One thing is certain, you’ll never run short of choice!

First Records of Wine Production – Go back millennia!

Founding Figures – The Greek colonisation marked a shift from vine grown in the wild to planned viticulture around 800 BC the Romans dramatically expanded production around 200 BC. The Italians never looked back!

Area Planted – Around 700,000 hectares making around 19% of the world’s wine!

Number of Wineries – Soave alone is made by 3,500 producers. That’s around the same number of wineries as in all of Australia! From gargistes to industrial scale conglomerates every Italian has a winemaker in the family.

Established Regions – Every region in Italy produces wine! The most prestigious region Piedmont is home to the stunning Nebbiolos of Barolo & Barbaresco. The Chianti and Brunello of Tuscany following hot on Piedmont’s heals. These are just a drop in the ocean!

In typical Italian style the classification systems of each region vary and are often skewed by influential persons with much to gain over the quality of the industry. As always we need to rely on our taste buds as the ultimate decider of quality!

Most Common VarietiesIn his book ‘Native Wine Grapes of Italy’ Ian D’Agata documents around 500 Italian grape varieties, by no means the complete set! Around 350 of these have been granted authorized status. There’s plenty to try! We’ve seen a push to save some of the notable, rare varietals like the white Nascetta and Arneis from Piedmont. 

Whilst we have seen an ingress of French Varietals, the most notable being the Cabernet Varietals + Syrah used to make the Super Tuscans, the Italians have, by and large stayed true to their roots.

White – Whites of note: Arneis (Piedmont), Cataratto (Sicily), Fiano (southwest coast), Friulano (Friuli), Gargenaga (Veneto – the Soave grape), Greco di Tufo (southwest coast), Malvasia Bianca (throughout Italy), Moscato Blanc (Piedmont), Pecorino (Abruzzo), Pinot Grigo (Why?), Ribolla Gialla (Friulli), Trebbiano (Abruzzo), Verdicchio (Marche) and Vermentino (Sardinia, Tuscany and Liguria).

Red – Aglianico (Campania), Barbera (Piedmont), Corvina blended with Rondinella to make Amarone, Dolcetto (Piedmont), Malvasia Nera (Puglia), Montepuliciano (Tuscany), Nebbiolo (Piedmont), Negaromaro (Puglia), Nero d’Avola (Sicily), Primitivo (Puglia), Sagrantino (Umbria) and Sangiovese (Tuscany).

Up and Coming Regions – Beyond Barolo and Barbaresco, around the world we have seen Amarone, Chianti, Soave, Prosecco, Verdicchio and the wines of Puglia gain strong recognition. In recent times the increasing cost of Barolo in particular has seen exploration of Nebbiolo from Alto Piedmonte and Valtellina. At the opposite end of the country, in part due to the investment of heavy hitters like ‘Barolo Boy’ Marco di Grazie (Terre Nere) and Andrea Franchetti (Passopisciaro) the Nerello Mascelese (red) and Carricante (white) wines of Etna, Sicily have become world recognised. Nerello Mascelese being described as some as the Barolo of the South or a cross between Nebbiolo and Pinot. I prefer to call it delicious!


A Treasure Hunt for the Lost Whites of Italy!


Timorasso ~ Nascetta ~ Erbaluce

3 Italian Whites Saved from Extinction!

Of the thousands of grape varieties that exist, and even more clones of each variety, few make it into our glass.

Many have been lost. Economic reality making them not viable.

Advances in viticulture, changes in climate and the passion of a few individuals have saved a few!

For that we are thankful!


Timorasso


The Saviours

Walter & Claudio along with their shared cellarmaster ‘Pigi’ are both the saviours & masters of Timorasso! The hold some of the oldest plantings making wine of great complexity, texture. Composed & full of personality.

Walter describes his Derthona as a “Modern Antique”.

Monlia Colli Tortonesi Timorasso 2021

Timorasso | Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi

Released 6 months later than the 2020 and it shows immediately. The extra time offers up a beautifully resolved wine. There’s something about the texture, aroma and flavour profile of good Italian white. That silvery line of bitterness that graces the finish. Out to play, seamless, the texture is refined with an excellent phenolic play married to fine acid. When Pietro visited Wine Deoced HQ we talked of the gentle development large oak casks offer whilst retaining freshness in a wine. This is
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NOTE on the 2022: An excellent follow up to the 2021. A slightly more generous iteration. All of the elements once again at play. Texture, clever use of oxidative handling to build intrigue whilst maintaining a core of vibrant fruit and mineral acidity. Citrus zest and oils with pears and a little candied ginger. White flowers dance over the top with a little savoury hit. Flowing and luscious, chalky, savoury, spiced, sapidity in a cleansing way. Plenty of intrigue and interest here. An exceptio
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Vietti Derthona Timorasso Colli Tortonesi 2020

Timorasso | Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi

The latest addition to the Vietti portfolio sees a white from the eastern most border of the Piedmont region. A perfect fit for Vietti with regard to their history of working with varietals of merit that for one reason or another have diminished over time.Timorasso makes beautiful wine the Massa is a cracker. I can't wait to try Vietti's version. With a wonderful array of flavours, textures, and, wonderful acidity the variety is loaded with personality & intrigue.For the 2019: Th
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Vigneti Massa Timorasso 'Derthona' 2022
Delicious!

Vigneti Massa Timorasso ‘Derthona’ 2022

Timorasso | Italy, Colli Tortonesi

From near extinction the Massa family have saved Timorasso, for that I am truly thankful! Massa's Derthona is the perfect introduction to the serious end of the spectrum of Timorasso.The note is a dead ringer for the 2021 although there is perhaps an edge more energy, depth and length in the 2022.Excellent build in depth and length with excellent oxidative line that sits perfectly with fine acid and insane lemon oil and those mega lemons you could eat straight + apricot kernel.. Great de
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Explore all of our Timorasso!


Nascetta


The Saviour

Elvio Cogno with his plantings in Novello, Barolo is turning out intoxicating wines from Nascetta. As he says they need a year or 2 in bottle to reveal their full potential. Grab a 2019 to drink now and 2020 next summer!

Nascetta - Italy's answer to Gewurztraminer. Fragrant, spicy and fresh.This is a fun, youthful wine that is drinking well now but could possibly benefit from a little more time to develop, allowing the fruit and underlying structure to better harmonise. Wonderful aromas come swinging out of the glass, with pops of pity citrus, yellow stone fruits, white blossoms and a line of saline minerality. The palate marries ripe, juicy fruit with a savoury lines of lees and spicy white pepper; gentle p
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Erbaluce


The Champion

Erbaluce can make many styles of from sparkling, late harvest & passito wines.

Antoniolo’s is a wonderfully fresh and crunchy dry white style. The 2020 has settled, resolving beautifully over the last 6 months and is in a wonderful place.

Perfect summer drinking.

Antoniolo Erbaluce d’Caluso DOC 2022

Erbaluce | Italy, Alto Piemonte

If you've never tried Erbaluce before this is a bloody good place to start!Like Timorasso & Nascetta this is a varietal to watch!Tasting the 2020 it was clear that like Cogno's Nascetta, Antoniolo's Erbaluce benefits from a hear in bottle to settle.Notes on the 20202nd Taste Oct 2022 - Very Good, super racy zippy acid coming together nicely resolved filled out. Looks good fun crisp. Perfect summer drinking. Elevage is there. Spice, the overt traminer, savvy b herbaceous t
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Filters & Sorting

Sottimano Barbaresco ‘Basarin’ 2021

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barbaresco

An elegance and grace from a perfumed savoury cherry laden aroma. Showing complexity and seamless harmony. Flowing fine and exceptionally developed. Earthy with anise, garrigue, tar and liquorice all wrapping a long even core of pure fruit with ripe and layered tannins, a little black tea woven in. This will be quite some wine in years to come.Paul Kaan, Wine Decoded Feb 2025The 2021 Barbaresco Basarin is fabulous. Rich, ample and seductive, the Basarin marries the charm that is so t
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Sottimano Barbaresco ‘Cotta’ 2021

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barbaresco

Brooding, there’s a richness counterpointed with transparency and a thirst-quenching acid tannin complex. Those tannins are nutty, layered long and even with a playful grip. Savoury with superb fruit. Darker, maraschino cherry with a chocolatey lick. Power with delicacy. Flowing and delicious. Serious and impressive.Paul Kaan, Wine Decoded Feb 2025The 2021 Barbaresco Cottá is quite the powerhouse. As usual, it is marked by a huge mid-palate of fruit, but more classic winemaking th
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Luigi Pira Barolo ‘Margheria’ 2021

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

All south-facing and sitting at 340 metres, vinification is the same as the Barolo ‘Serralunga’.Intense and complex nose with notes of fruit and flowers and hints of leather and fresh hay, while on the palate it’s perfectly knit and very distinctive, red fruited in style with ironstone, choc-cherry, roses and some of the darker notes of cola and porcini, along with textural red plum-skin, grippy, black-tea tannins that underpin, but it’s still generous and very approachable now.
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Beautifully composed, flowing and elegant for a Grumello  a commune that can show a little more overt grunt in the context of Valtellina. While there is a rounder mid palate the delicacy entrances. Incredibly layered and fine. The fruit marries woody herbs, spice tea and beyond with a blood orange feel. Long though not quite the length of the Sant’Antonio. Fine drinking to be had here.Very fine, pure, ultra-mineral expression of Nebbiolo here. Strawberry, raspberry, spice, fennel, min
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The name has changed from Vigna Regina to Nuova Regina the wine is the same ... Delicious! Sassella is typically the most elegant of the Communes made by Ar.Pe.Pe. The Nuova Regina is clearly the most sophisticated of the 2016 Riserva crop.The perfume here ramps up a notch, delicacy and intrigue with underlying power all be it in a mid-weight wine. Constantly changing and evolving with each sniff. The flow, shape and mouthfeel are impeccable. Vibrant red fruit with woody herbs tea, blood ora
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The Rocce Rosse has a darker feel. Currently, I perceive it as a little richer with an extra squirt of tannin to hold it. Dark spiced, long firm yet fine tannins. Like the Nuova Regina and Sant’Antonio it lingers for some time. Again there is real beauty here. It unfolds in the glass revealing layer after layer. Incredible, complete wine of exceptional balance. It is unfair to separate the two Sassella, they are both stunning. Drinking the pair together on any given night over the next 1
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Once again my preferred Grumello from Ar.Pe.Pe. A build in perceived fruit weight length and depth over the Bon Consiglio with immediate generosity make for superb drinking out of the gate. Comparing this to the 2009 consumed a couple of weeks ago I foresee this building in complexity from an already complex starting point and achieving the incredible transparency of the 2009 as it moves into the next stage of development. Although it will be hard to keep your hands off it!The church of
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Late harvest quasi sforzato play here. There’s fun to be had here. ArPePe play in between a full-blown sforzato and the rest of their Riserva range makes for a fun balance. Completely dry, it introduces a level of richness and extra layer of tannin. Gary's note captures it well.Harvest is November 10th, because they leave the grapes to dry out and shrivel a little. It’s from the highest part of Sassella, sitting at 600m above sea level. Cherry, blackberry, plum, dried mint,
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Cerbaiona Rosso di Montalcino 2022

Sangiovese | Tuscany, Italy

A Brunello in all but name ... and, a bloody good one at that! The 2022 Rosso di Montalcino is wonderfully perfumed, casting a blend of roses, violets and crushed blackberries. A stone dust hint adds lovely complexity. This is elegant in style and remarkably pure, showing depths of cherry-berry fruit guided by a wave of vibrant acidity. The 2022 leaves a salty, mineral flourish while tapering off long and gently tannic. Crisp in feel, with resonating blue and purple inner florals. This is alread
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Barale Barolo ‘Castellero’ 2020

Nebbiolo | Italy, Barolo

Lovely composition. Complex layered, transparency is there. Beautifully weighted again with edgy, playful grip. Savoury and dark. Barale's 2020's are some of the best 2020’s I’ve had and this is one of Barale's best interations of Castellero in recent years.  Superb drinking. So much going on. Damn, when these guys get it together!The 2020 Barolo Castellero is a powerful, savory wine. Dark fruit, menthol, licorice, spice and a host of balsamic notes all run through this dense, viril
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Barale Barolo ‘Bussia’ 2020

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

Moving to Monforte at the top of Bussia we see the hallmarks of the top Bussia. The acid tannin complex is true to the form for the commune showing a playful grip. Bright red fruit with a certain delicacy combine with energetic acid.A fine Bussia with considerable depth and length. A delicate perfume over the top of a very fine transparent Barolo. Thirst quenching. Lovely red and savoury fruit. Delicate Bussia yet still with generosity, now there's a trick.  Complete refined. Delicious. Mou
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Known above all for the exceptional quality of the wines Giacosa has produced over the years, Valmaggiore still represents the peak of value in the current range. A wonderful vineyard site now popularised by a handful of producers including Giacosa, the Valmaggiore bottling displays a noticeable step up in nuance and structure to the ‘regular’ Nebbiolo d’Alba which comes from various sites in Roero.Nebbiolo’s typical red fruits and red rose are abundant in the Nebbiolo Valmaggiore, w
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