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Italy

Ahhh … Italy! Home of renaissance literature, philosophy, science and some of the most heart warming food in the world. From North to South it would be a fair guess to say the only thing outnumbering churches and Vespa’s are the vast areas of vineyards.

One thing is certain, you’ll never run short of choice!

First Records of Wine Production – Go back millennia!

Founding Figures – The Greek colonisation marked a shift from vine grown in the wild to planned viticulture around 800 BC the Romans dramatically expanded production around 200 BC. The Italians never looked back!

Area Planted – Around 700,000 hectares making around 19% of the world’s wine!

Number of Wineries – Soave alone is made by 3,500 producers. That’s around the same number of wineries as in all of Australia! From gargistes to industrial scale conglomerates every Italian has a winemaker in the family.

Established Regions – Every region in Italy produces wine! The most prestigious region Piedmont is home to the stunning Nebbiolos of Barolo & Barbaresco. The Chianti and Brunello of Tuscany following hot on Piedmont’s heals. These are just a drop in the ocean!

In typical Italian style the classification systems of each region vary and are often skewed by influential persons with much to gain over the quality of the industry. As always we need to rely on our taste buds as the ultimate decider of quality!

Most Common VarietiesIn his book ‘Native Wine Grapes of Italy’ Ian D’Agata documents around 500 Italian grape varieties, by no means the complete set! Around 350 of these have been granted authorized status. There’s plenty to try! We’ve seen a push to save some of the notable, rare varietals like the white Nascetta and Arneis from Piedmont. 

Whilst we have seen an ingress of French Varietals, the most notable being the Cabernet Varietals + Syrah used to make the Super Tuscans, the Italians have, by and large stayed true to their roots.

White – Whites of note: Arneis (Piedmont), Cataratto (Sicily), Fiano (southwest coast), Friulano (Friuli), Gargenaga (Veneto – the Soave grape), Greco di Tufo (southwest coast), Malvasia Bianca (throughout Italy), Moscato Blanc (Piedmont), Pecorino (Abruzzo), Pinot Grigo (Why?), Ribolla Gialla (Friulli), Trebbiano (Abruzzo), Verdicchio (Marche) and Vermentino (Sardinia, Tuscany and Liguria).

Red – Aglianico (Campania), Barbera (Piedmont), Corvina blended with Rondinella to make Amarone, Dolcetto (Piedmont), Malvasia Nera (Puglia), Montepuliciano (Tuscany), Nebbiolo (Piedmont), Negaromaro (Puglia), Nero d’Avola (Sicily), Primitivo (Puglia), Sagrantino (Umbria) and Sangiovese (Tuscany).

Up and Coming Regions – Beyond Barolo and Barbaresco, around the world we have seen Amarone, Chianti, Soave, Prosecco, Verdicchio and the wines of Puglia gain strong recognition. In recent times the increasing cost of Barolo in particular has seen exploration of Nebbiolo from Alto Piedmonte and Valtellina. At the opposite end of the country, in part due to the investment of heavy hitters like ‘Barolo Boy’ Marco di Grazie (Terre Nere) and Andrea Franchetti (Passopisciaro) the Nerello Mascelese (red) and Carricante (white) wines of Etna, Sicily have become world recognised. Nerello Mascelese being described as some as the Barolo of the South or a cross between Nebbiolo and Pinot. I prefer to call it delicious!


A Treasure Hunt for the Lost Whites of Italy!


Timorasso ~ Nascetta ~ Erbaluce

3 Italian Whites Saved from Extinction!

Of the thousands of grape varieties that exist, and even more clones of each variety, few make it into our glass.

Many have been lost. Economic reality making them not viable.

Advances in viticulture, changes in climate and the passion of a few individuals have saved a few!

For that we are thankful!


Timorasso


The Saviours

Walter & Claudio along with their shared cellarmaster ‘Pigi’ are both the saviours & masters of Timorasso! The hold some of the oldest plantings making wine of great complexity, texture. Composed & full of personality.

Walter describes his Derthona as a “Modern Antique”.

Monlia Colli Tortonesi Timorasso 2021

Timorasso | Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi

Released 6 months later than the 2020 and it shows immediately. The extra time offers up a beautifully resolved wine. There’s something about the texture, aroma and flavour profile of good Italian white. That silvery line of bitterness that graces the finish. Out to play, seamless, the texture is refined with an excellent phenolic play married to fine acid. When Pietro visited Wine Deoced HQ we talked of the gentle development large oak casks offer whilst retaining freshness in a wine. This is
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NOTE on the 2022: An excellent follow up to the 2021. A slightly more generous iteration. All of the elements once again at play. Texture, clever use of oxidative handling to build intrigue whilst maintaining a core of vibrant fruit and mineral acidity. Citrus zest and oils with pears and a little candied ginger. White flowers dance over the top with a little savoury hit. Flowing and luscious, chalky, savoury, spiced, sapidity in a cleansing way. Plenty of intrigue and interest here. An exceptio
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Vietti Derthona Timorasso Colli Tortonesi 2020

Timorasso | Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi

The latest addition to the Vietti portfolio sees a white from the eastern most border of the Piedmont region. A perfect fit for Vietti with regard to their history of working with varietals of merit that for one reason or another have diminished over time.Timorasso makes beautiful wine the Massa is a cracker. I can't wait to try Vietti's version. With a wonderful array of flavours, textures, and, wonderful acidity the variety is loaded with personality & intrigue.For the 2019: Th
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Vigneti Massa Timorasso 'Derthona' 2022
Delicious!

Vigneti Massa Timorasso ‘Derthona’ 2022

Timorasso | Italy, Colli Tortonesi

From near extinction the Massa family have saved Timorasso, for that I am truly thankful! Massa's Derthona is the perfect introduction to the serious end of the spectrum of Timorasso.The note is a dead ringer for the 2021 although there is perhaps an edge more energy, depth and length in the 2022.Excellent build in depth and length with excellent oxidative line that sits perfectly with fine acid and insane lemon oil and those mega lemons you could eat straight + apricot kernel.. Great de
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Explore all of our Timorasso!


Nascetta


The Saviour

Elvio Cogno with his plantings in Novello, Barolo is turning out intoxicating wines from Nascetta. As he says they need a year or 2 in bottle to reveal their full potential. Grab a 2019 to drink now and 2020 next summer!

Nascetta - Italy's answer to Gewurztraminer. Fragrant, spicy and fresh.This is a fun, youthful wine that is drinking well now but could possibly benefit from a little more time to develop, allowing the fruit and underlying structure to better harmonise. Wonderful aromas come swinging out of the glass, with pops of pity citrus, yellow stone fruits, white blossoms and a line of saline minerality. The palate marries ripe, juicy fruit with a savoury lines of lees and spicy white pepper; gentle p
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Erbaluce


The Champion

Erbaluce can make many styles of from sparkling, late harvest & passito wines.

Antoniolo’s is a wonderfully fresh and crunchy dry white style. The 2020 has settled, resolving beautifully over the last 6 months and is in a wonderful place.

Perfect summer drinking.

Antoniolo Erbaluce d’Caluso DOC 2022

Erbaluce | Italy, Alto Piemonte

If you've never tried Erbaluce before this is a bloody good place to start!Like Timorasso & Nascetta this is a varietal to watch!Tasting the 2020 it was clear that like Cogno's Nascetta, Antoniolo's Erbaluce benefits from a hear in bottle to settle.Notes on the 20202nd Taste Oct 2022 - Very Good, super racy zippy acid coming together nicely resolved filled out. Looks good fun crisp. Perfect summer drinking. Elevage is there. Spice, the overt traminer, savvy b herbaceous t
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Filters & Sorting

Roagna Timorasso Derthona Montemarzino 2017

Timorasso | Colli Tortonesi, Italy

A grape variety saved by saved by Massa & on the rise! With Vietti and Roagna adding their names to the few making Timorasso, it's clear something special is happening in Derthona (the old name for Tortona).I've tried the Massa's entry level version and loved its flavours and textures. Can't wait to try Roagna's version.
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Vajra Barolo ‘Coste di Rose’ 2017

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

The 2017 Barolo Coste di Rose is pretty, supple and inviting. Some of the tannins need to resolve, but this is a young Barolo after all. The Coste di Rose doesn't have the sensuality of the Albe or the pedigree of the Viole, but it nevertheless has so much to give. Crushed flowers, sweet red berry fruit, mint, crushed rocks and sage are some of the many notes that linger. I won't be surprised if the 2017 is even better than this note suggests once it softens a bit.  Galloni
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Sottimano Barbaresco ‘Basarin’ 2019

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barbaresco

As with the 2016, Sottimano's 2019 Basarin is a cracker. Finely balanced with the juicy acid that sits across Sottimano's 2019's. There's more immediate generosity compared with the Fausoni at this early stage. Excellent depth and length with fine long tannins. As with the 2016 this has to be one of the best handling of a tiny proportion of new oak in Barbaresco that you'll find. The is great drinking with beautiful shape. The fruit again shining through with an intoxicating set of aromas and f
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Sottimano Barbaresco ‘Fausoni’ 2019

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barbaresco

The Cru's of the Commune of Nieve in Barbaresco in general have an elegance, a fine feel to them. Fausoni fits that bill. The 2019 is defined with an excellent acid tannin complex at 14% Alcohol. With a little air time and coaxing the perfume comes, the fruit builds and the balance refines. Full of energy and life, red fruits, slate, earthiness, a little tar, leather, orange citrus and beyond are at play. Fine, dusty tannins add a nice level of grip to match the depth and length of fruit. This w
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Sottimano Barbaresco ‘Pajorè’ 2019

Nebbiolo | Treiso, Barbaresco

From one of the famed Cru's of the Commune of Treiso, Barbaresco. A classic, superb fruit of depth and considerable length here, backed by long tannins of excellent mouthfeel. Loads going on with darker fruits and an array of complexing earthy, savoury notes, spices and blood orange adding layer after layers of subtle complexity. Plenty in the tank here too. Classic Barbaresco. Wait 5 years before trying.
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Barale Barolo ‘Bussia’ 2018

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

Oh so pretty! This is very well played. Bussia is right in the north of Monforte, which as a whole was very poorly defined during the MGA classification. It tends to produce wines of more elegance than many of the Crus further south in Monforte. Barale’s 2018s have been beautifully composed. The Bussia tannins are fine and restrained. The development and oxidative handling demands quality fruit and it has that with a solid core of red fruits layered in with savoury, earthy notes. I’m enjoyin
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Figli Luigi Oddero Barolo 2019
A Masterpiece!

Figli Luigi Oddero Barolo 2019

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

A blend of fruit from 30% the plush La Morra Rive, 30% the flowing tannins of Castiglione Falletto’s Scarrone, & 40% structural acid-driven Serralunga vineayrds of Baudana & Broglio. Wonderfully fine tannins and core of fruit. A beautiful core of fruit, long fine excellent transparency. Delicate and beautiful. Earthy, truffled, an underlayer of perfume. Tasting the 2020 Langhes, 2019 Barbaresco Rombone, 2019 Barolo and the singular 2019 Rocche Rivera there is a thread of sophistica
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Figli Luigi Oddero Barolo 2021
A Masterpiece!

Figli Luigi Oddero Barolo 2021

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

A blend of fruit from 30% the plush La Morra Rive, 30% the flowing tannins of Castiglione Falletto’s Scarrone, & 40% structural acid-driven Serralunga vineayrds of Baudana & Broglio.A classic blend of Nebbiolo from three villages, La Morra, Castiglione Falletto and Serralunga, the 2021 Figli Luigi Oddero Barolo is a beauty, starting with its aromas of red berry, blue flower and eucalyptus. The vibrant palate is elegant and youthfully austere - a great characteristic for a wine
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Corvina , Corvinone and Cabernet , dark, meaty and ripe on the nose with cassis and earth tones . The palate is fresh with forrest berries and red plums . wonderful complete wine already .50% Corvina and Corvinone, 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc
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Known above all for the exceptional quality of the wines Giacosa has produced over the years, Valmaggiore still represents the peak of value in the current range. A wonderful vineyard site now popularised by a handful of producers including Giacosa, the Valmaggiore bottling displays a noticeable step up in nuance and structure to the ‘regular’ Nebbiolo d’Alba which comes from various sites in Roero.Nebbiolo’s typical red fruits and red rose are abundant in the Nebbiolo Valmaggiore, w
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Albino Rocca ‘Ronchi’ Barbaresco 2017

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barbaresco

Wow! Tagged as the best holding of the estate you can see why! “The 2017 Barbaresco Ronchi is terrific. Dark, ample and resonant, the Ronchi envelops all the senses from the very first taste. Succulent red cherry, plum, rose petal, spice, mint and licorice all build as the Ronchi shows off its considerable allure. Readers will have a very hard time keeping their hands off this jewel of a wine from the Rocca family.” Antonio Galloni
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Rocca's 'Ovello Vigna Loreto' has a generosity and delicacy about it. A real elegance and fine tannins. This shows the beauty of the Ovello Cru. “The 2017 Barbaresco Ovello is fine and sculpted, as wines from this cru are, but in 2017 it has an extra bit of weight that really balances some of the natural austerity that comes so easily in Ovello. Crushed red berries, chalk, mint, white pepper and rose petal fill out the layers effortlessly. Vivid and translucent in the glass, the 2017 is incred
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