Location

Italy

Ahhh … Italy! Home of renaissance literature, philosophy, science and some of the most heart warming food in the world. From North to South it would be a fair guess to say the only thing outnumbering churches and Vespa’s are the vast areas of vineyards.

One thing is certain, you’ll never run short of choice!

First Records of Wine Production – Go back millennia!

Founding Figures – The Greek colonisation marked a shift from vine grown in the wild to planned viticulture around 800 BC the Romans dramatically expanded production around 200 BC. The Italians never looked back!

Area Planted – Around 700,000 hectares making around 19% of the world’s wine!

Number of Wineries – Soave alone is made by 3,500 producers. That’s around the same number of wineries as in all of Australia! From gargistes to industrial scale conglomerates every Italian has a winemaker in the family.

Established Regions – Every region in Italy produces wine! The most prestigious region Piedmont is home to the stunning Nebbiolos of Barolo & Barbaresco. The Chianti and Brunello of Tuscany following hot on Piedmont’s heals. These are just a drop in the ocean!

In typical Italian style the classification systems of each region vary and are often skewed by influential persons with much to gain over the quality of the industry. As always we need to rely on our taste buds as the ultimate decider of quality!

Most Common VarietiesIn his book ‘Native Wine Grapes of Italy’ Ian D’Agata documents around 500 Italian grape varieties, by no means the complete set! Around 350 of these have been granted authorized status. There’s plenty to try! We’ve seen a push to save some of the notable, rare varietals like the white Nascetta and Arneis from Piedmont. 

Whilst we have seen an ingress of French Varietals, the most notable being the Cabernet Varietals + Syrah used to make the Super Tuscans, the Italians have, by and large stayed true to their roots.

White – Whites of note: Arneis (Piedmont), Cataratto (Sicily), Fiano (southwest coast), Friulano (Friuli), Gargenaga (Veneto – the Soave grape), Greco di Tufo (southwest coast), Malvasia Bianca (throughout Italy), Moscato Blanc (Piedmont), Pecorino (Abruzzo), Pinot Grigo (Why?), Ribolla Gialla (Friulli), Trebbiano (Abruzzo), Verdicchio (Marche) and Vermentino (Sardinia, Tuscany and Liguria).

Red – Aglianico (Campania), Barbera (Piedmont), Corvina blended with Rondinella to make Amarone, Dolcetto (Piedmont), Malvasia Nera (Puglia), Montepuliciano (Tuscany), Nebbiolo (Piedmont), Negaromaro (Puglia), Nero d’Avola (Sicily), Primitivo (Puglia), Sagrantino (Umbria) and Sangiovese (Tuscany).

Up and Coming Regions – Beyond Barolo and Barbaresco, around the world we have seen Amarone, Chianti, Soave, Prosecco, Verdicchio and the wines of Puglia gain strong recognition. In recent times the increasing cost of Barolo in particular has seen exploration of Nebbiolo from Alto Piedmonte and Valtellina. At the opposite end of the country, in part due to the investment of heavy hitters like ‘Barolo Boy’ Marco di Grazie (Terre Nere) and Andrea Franchetti (Passopisciaro) the Nerello Mascelese (red) and Carricante (white) wines of Etna, Sicily have become world recognised. Nerello Mascelese being described as some as the Barolo of the South or a cross between Nebbiolo and Pinot. I prefer to call it delicious!


A Treasure Hunt for the Lost Whites of Italy!


Timorasso ~ Nascetta ~ Erbaluce

3 Italian Whites Saved from Extinction!

Of the thousands of grape varieties that exist, and even more clones of each variety, few make it into our glass.

Many have been lost. Economic reality making them not viable.

Advances in viticulture, changes in climate and the passion of a few individuals have saved a few!

For that we are thankful!


Timorasso


The Saviours

Walter & Claudio along with their shared cellarmaster ‘Pigi’ are both the saviours & masters of Timorasso! The hold some of the oldest plantings making wine of great complexity, texture. Composed & full of personality.

Walter describes his Derthona as a “Modern Antique”.

Monlia Colli Tortonesi Timorasso 2021

Timorasso | Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi

Released 6 months later than the 2020 and it shows immediately. The extra time offers up a beautifully resolved wine. There’s something about the texture, aroma and flavour profile of good Italian white. That silvery line of bitterness that graces the finish. Out to play, seamless, the texture is refined with an excellent phenolic play married to fine acid. When Pietro visited Wine Deoced HQ we talked of the gentle development large oak casks offer whilst retaining freshness in a wine. This is
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NOTE on the 2022: An excellent follow up to the 2021. A slightly more generous iteration. All of the elements once again at play. Texture, clever use of oxidative handling to build intrigue whilst maintaining a core of vibrant fruit and mineral acidity. Citrus zest and oils with pears and a little candied ginger. White flowers dance over the top with a little savoury hit. Flowing and luscious, chalky, savoury, spiced, sapidity in a cleansing way. Plenty of intrigue and interest here. An exceptio
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Vietti Derthona Timorasso Colli Tortonesi 2020

Timorasso | Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi

The latest addition to the Vietti portfolio sees a white from the eastern most border of the Piedmont region. A perfect fit for Vietti with regard to their history of working with varietals of merit that for one reason or another have diminished over time.Timorasso makes beautiful wine the Massa is a cracker. I can't wait to try Vietti's version. With a wonderful array of flavours, textures, and, wonderful acidity the variety is loaded with personality & intrigue.For the 2019: Th
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Vigneti Massa Timorasso 'Derthona' 2022
Delicious!

Vigneti Massa Timorasso ‘Derthona’ 2022

Timorasso | Italy, Colli Tortonesi

From near extinction the Massa family have saved Timorasso, for that I am truly thankful! Massa's Derthona is the perfect introduction to the serious end of the spectrum of Timorasso.The note is a dead ringer for the 2021 although there is perhaps an edge more energy, depth and length in the 2022.Excellent build in depth and length with excellent oxidative line that sits perfectly with fine acid and insane lemon oil and those mega lemons you could eat straight + apricot kernel.. Great de
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Explore all of our Timorasso!


Nascetta


The Saviour

Elvio Cogno with his plantings in Novello, Barolo is turning out intoxicating wines from Nascetta. As he says they need a year or 2 in bottle to reveal their full potential. Grab a 2019 to drink now and 2020 next summer!

Nascetta - Italy's answer to Gewurztraminer. Fragrant, spicy and fresh.This is a fun, youthful wine that is drinking well now but could possibly benefit from a little more time to develop, allowing the fruit and underlying structure to better harmonise. Wonderful aromas come swinging out of the glass, with pops of pity citrus, yellow stone fruits, white blossoms and a line of saline minerality. The palate marries ripe, juicy fruit with a savoury lines of lees and spicy white pepper; gentle p
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Erbaluce


The Champion

Erbaluce can make many styles of from sparkling, late harvest & passito wines.

Antoniolo’s is a wonderfully fresh and crunchy dry white style. The 2020 has settled, resolving beautifully over the last 6 months and is in a wonderful place.

Perfect summer drinking.

Antoniolo Erbaluce d’Caluso DOC 2022

Erbaluce | Italy, Alto Piemonte

If you've never tried Erbaluce before this is a bloody good place to start!Like Timorasso & Nascetta this is a varietal to watch!Tasting the 2020 it was clear that like Cogno's Nascetta, Antoniolo's Erbaluce benefits from a hear in bottle to settle.Notes on the 20202nd Taste Oct 2022 - Very Good, super racy zippy acid coming together nicely resolved filled out. Looks good fun crisp. Perfect summer drinking. Elevage is there. Spice, the overt traminer, savvy b herbaceous t
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Filters & Sorting

Tenuta di Carleone ‘Il Guercio’ 2022

Sangiovese | Tuscany, Chianti Classico

Named after a Tuscan word for "one-eyed rascal."With its elegant white wax capsule, the Tenuta di Carleone 2022 Il Guercio is partially made with feet-stomped Sangiovese (and up to 50% whole-cluster fruit) sourced from the village of Lamole, with its verdant vineyard landscapes and high elevations. This IGT red is balanced and bright with a lean consistency. The fruit tones are presented with good intensity and layered nuance. You get some of the bitter flavors from the skins (from extended
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The perfect and some what more affordable introduction to the wines of Ornellaia.For a long time I was unconvinced wines made from French varieties made in Italy. One wine stands out as changing my mind, 1990 Ornellaia, thanks Lou!Beautifully balanced and poised it was poured at an open wine night where the only criterion was that it had to be bloody good!54% Merlot 28% Cabernet Sauvignon 14% Cabernet France 4% Petit VerdotThe 2019 Le Serre Nuove dell'Ornellaia is delicate,
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Albino Rocca ‘Cottà’ Barbaresco 2017

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barbaresco

“One of the highlights in this range, the 2017 Barbaresco Cottà possesses tremendous depth along with the sheer breadth that is the key signature of this Neive cru. Black cherry, plum, leather, licorice, mint and lavender soar out of the glass, all with the backing of serious tannins that are going to need time to soften. This is impressive stuff.” Antonio Galloni, Vinous
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Giovanni Sordo Barolo 'Perno' 2010
Direct from Sordo's Cellars!

Giovanni Sordo Barolo ‘Perno’ 2010

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

The bold Cru's of Monforte demand a little. That's sorted so it's time to hook in! The bold Cru's of Monforte demand a little. I've sorted that for you so it's time to hook in!'Intense and full of youthful energy, it delivers succulent black cherry and black raspberry sensations accented with notes of black pepper, new leather, cinnamon, clove and Mediterranean herbs. The vibrant palate is supported by a tannic backbone and lively acidity that promise serious cellaring potential. Drink 2020�
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Rocca's 'Ovello Vigna Loreto' has a generosity and delicacy about it. A real elegance and fine tannins. This shows the beauty of the Ovello Cru. This bottle now names the vineyard cru, Ovello, as well as the plot within that site, Vigna Loreto. The Albino Rocca 2019 Barbaresco Ovello Vigna Loreto shows a smooth consistency (especially when compared to the more angular and determined Ronchi). However, Ovello doesn't hold back on power either, and the wine counts long palate persistency with linge
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Albino Rocca ‘Ronchi’ Barbaresco 2021

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barbaresco

Wow! Tagged as the best holding of the estate you can see why! The Albino Rocca 2021 Barbaresco Ronchi shows a dusty mineral quality that adds to the elegance of the bouquet. Beyond that, you get nicely ripened Nebbiolo fruit with wild cherry and redcurrant. It fleshes out over the palate with tart flavors and chalky tannins.Monica Larner, The Wine Advocate 94 PointsThe 2021 Barbaresco Ronchi comes across as a bit youthfully austere relative to some of the other wines in the range.
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The Contrada ChiappaManiche has 90-year-old vines and is located midway up the volcanic cone at 550 meters in elevation. The Passopisciaro 2022 Contrada C shows a very specific character with a pronounced mineral note that cedes to blue and black fruits and fresh blooming violet. These two sides of the wine play against each other to add pretty contrasts and intensity. This elegant wine spends 18 months in oak. Some 4,000 bottles were released.Monica Larner, The Wine Advocate 94 Points
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The Highest Elevation Contrada owned by Passopisciaro making delicious Ethereal wines!  The 2022 Contrada Rampante is intense, wafting up with all of the volcanic ash and stones that make up its soils, complicated by grilled herbs and citrus-laced blackberries. This is surprisingly juicy and energetic in feel, with a wave of vibrantly ripe red and blue fruits that swirl throughout as tactile minerals collect toward the close. It finishes with teeth-coating tannins and concentration, lea
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Guardiola higher elevation puts it on the more elegant side of the scales! The Passopisciaro 2022 Contrada G is a true beauty in a portfolio of wines that is very impressive across the board. The "G" stands for Guardiola, one of the most stunning vineyards anywhere, at 800 meters in elevation on the blackened volcanic cone with alberello (head-pruned) vines that have reached the 140-year mark. These factors shape a silky and very elegant wine with redcurrant, grilled herb and blue rosemary flowe
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Meaning New Lava Flow it's young soils have not broken down to release as much nutrient as the olds flows. Treating the vines mean and keeping them lean! The Passopisciaro 2022 Contrada S shows bright energy with a spot of fresh cherry that rises above the volcanic notes of ash and crushed stone that normally defines Nerello Mascalese. This wine draws its fruit from 90-year-old vines at 850 meters in elevation in the Contrada Sciaranuova. It sits very nicely on the palate with good primary inten
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Vietti Barolo 2021

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

Show the class of the vineyards and the winemakers! Excellent Barolo. The delicacy and restraint here is exceptional. The core of transparent fruit is insane. Depth, purity and such incredible clarity. A soft hand yields incredibly fine, long, even nutty tannin. Showing wonderful expression and generosity in its youth. Plenty more to come with time in bottle. Flowers, blood orange, rhubarb, red fruits. Mid-palate tannin of exceptional quality. A dark broody layer folded in. Impeccable blending.
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Cappellano Barbera Gabutti 2017

Barbera | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

The 2017 Barbera d'Alba Gabutti captures all of the natural richness of the vintage in spades. Super-ripe red cherry, kirsch, mint, rose petal, star anise and blood orange are some of the many sensations that develop with some air. Though classically built in terms of structure, the 2017 is decidedly ripe in its expression of fruit. This is a very serious wine. Time in the glass really helps bring things together and tone down some of the most exotic ripeness that is present at the outset.An
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