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Italy

Ahhh … Italy! Home of renaissance literature, philosophy, science and some of the most heart warming food in the world. From North to South it would be a fair guess to say the only thing outnumbering churches and Vespa’s are the vast areas of vineyards.

One thing is certain, you’ll never run short of choice!

First Records of Wine Production – Go back millennia!

Founding Figures – The Greek colonisation marked a shift from vine grown in the wild to planned viticulture around 800 BC the Romans dramatically expanded production around 200 BC. The Italians never looked back!

Area Planted – Around 700,000 hectares making around 19% of the world’s wine!

Number of Wineries – Soave alone is made by 3,500 producers. That’s around the same number of wineries as in all of Australia! From gargistes to industrial scale conglomerates every Italian has a winemaker in the family.

Established Regions – Every region in Italy produces wine! The most prestigious region Piedmont is home to the stunning Nebbiolos of Barolo & Barbaresco. The Chianti and Brunello of Tuscany following hot on Piedmont’s heals. These are just a drop in the ocean!

In typical Italian style the classification systems of each region vary and are often skewed by influential persons with much to gain over the quality of the industry. As always we need to rely on our taste buds as the ultimate decider of quality!

Most Common VarietiesIn his book ‘Native Wine Grapes of Italy’ Ian D’Agata documents around 500 Italian grape varieties, by no means the complete set! Around 350 of these have been granted authorized status. There’s plenty to try! We’ve seen a push to save some of the notable, rare varietals like the white Nascetta and Arneis from Piedmont. 

Whilst we have seen an ingress of French Varietals, the most notable being the Cabernet Varietals + Syrah used to make the Super Tuscans, the Italians have, by and large stayed true to their roots.

White – Whites of note: Arneis (Piedmont), Cataratto (Sicily), Fiano (southwest coast), Friulano (Friuli), Gargenaga (Veneto – the Soave grape), Greco di Tufo (southwest coast), Malvasia Bianca (throughout Italy), Moscato Blanc (Piedmont), Pecorino (Abruzzo), Pinot Grigo (Why?), Ribolla Gialla (Friulli), Trebbiano (Abruzzo), Verdicchio (Marche) and Vermentino (Sardinia, Tuscany and Liguria).

Red – Aglianico (Campania), Barbera (Piedmont), Corvina blended with Rondinella to make Amarone, Dolcetto (Piedmont), Malvasia Nera (Puglia), Montepuliciano (Tuscany), Nebbiolo (Piedmont), Negaromaro (Puglia), Nero d’Avola (Sicily), Primitivo (Puglia), Sagrantino (Umbria) and Sangiovese (Tuscany).

Up and Coming Regions – Beyond Barolo and Barbaresco, around the world we have seen Amarone, Chianti, Soave, Prosecco, Verdicchio and the wines of Puglia gain strong recognition. In recent times the increasing cost of Barolo in particular has seen exploration of Nebbiolo from Alto Piedmonte and Valtellina. At the opposite end of the country, in part due to the investment of heavy hitters like ‘Barolo Boy’ Marco di Grazie (Terre Nere) and Andrea Franchetti (Passopisciaro) the Nerello Mascelese (red) and Carricante (white) wines of Etna, Sicily have become world recognised. Nerello Mascelese being described as some as the Barolo of the South or a cross between Nebbiolo and Pinot. I prefer to call it delicious!


A Treasure Hunt for the Lost Whites of Italy!


Timorasso ~ Nascetta ~ Erbaluce

3 Italian Whites Saved from Extinction!

Of the thousands of grape varieties that exist, and even more clones of each variety, few make it into our glass.

Many have been lost. Economic reality making them not viable.

Advances in viticulture, changes in climate and the passion of a few individuals have saved a few!

For that we are thankful!


Timorasso


The Saviours

Walter & Claudio along with their shared cellarmaster ‘Pigi’ are both the saviours & masters of Timorasso! The hold some of the oldest plantings making wine of great complexity, texture. Composed & full of personality.

Walter describes his Derthona as a “Modern Antique”.

Monlia Colli Tortonesi Timorasso 2021

Timorasso | Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi

Released 6 months later than the 2020 and it shows immediately. The extra time offers up a beautifully resolved wine. There’s something about the texture, aroma and flavour profile of good Italian white. That silvery line of bitterness that graces the finish. Out to play, seamless, the texture is refined with an excellent phenolic play married to fine acid. When Pietro visited Wine Deoced HQ we talked of the gentle development large oak casks offer whilst retaining freshness in a wine. This is
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NOTE on the 2022: An excellent follow up to the 2021. A slightly more generous iteration. All of the elements once again at play. Texture, clever use of oxidative handling to build intrigue whilst maintaining a core of vibrant fruit and mineral acidity. Citrus zest and oils with pears and a little candied ginger. White flowers dance over the top with a little savoury hit. Flowing and luscious, chalky, savoury, spiced, sapidity in a cleansing way. Plenty of intrigue and interest here. An exceptio
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Vietti Derthona Timorasso Colli Tortonesi 2020

Timorasso | Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi

The latest addition to the Vietti portfolio sees a white from the eastern most border of the Piedmont region. A perfect fit for Vietti with regard to their history of working with varietals of merit that for one reason or another have diminished over time.Timorasso makes beautiful wine the Massa is a cracker. I can't wait to try Vietti's version. With a wonderful array of flavours, textures, and, wonderful acidity the variety is loaded with personality & intrigue.For the 2019: Th
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Vigneti Massa Timorasso 'Derthona' 2022
Delicious!

Vigneti Massa Timorasso ‘Derthona’ 2022

Timorasso | Italy, Colli Tortonesi

From near extinction the Massa family have saved Timorasso, for that I am truly thankful! Massa's Derthona is the perfect introduction to the serious end of the spectrum of Timorasso.The note is a dead ringer for the 2021 although there is perhaps an edge more energy, depth and length in the 2022.Excellent build in depth and length with excellent oxidative line that sits perfectly with fine acid and insane lemon oil and those mega lemons you could eat straight + apricot kernel.. Great de
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Explore all of our Timorasso!


Nascetta


The Saviour

Elvio Cogno with his plantings in Novello, Barolo is turning out intoxicating wines from Nascetta. As he says they need a year or 2 in bottle to reveal their full potential. Grab a 2019 to drink now and 2020 next summer!

Nascetta - Italy's answer to Gewurztraminer. Fragrant, spicy and fresh.This is a fun, youthful wine that is drinking well now but could possibly benefit from a little more time to develop, allowing the fruit and underlying structure to better harmonise. Wonderful aromas come swinging out of the glass, with pops of pity citrus, yellow stone fruits, white blossoms and a line of saline minerality. The palate marries ripe, juicy fruit with a savoury lines of lees and spicy white pepper; gentle p
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Erbaluce


The Champion

Erbaluce can make many styles of from sparkling, late harvest & passito wines.

Antoniolo’s is a wonderfully fresh and crunchy dry white style. The 2020 has settled, resolving beautifully over the last 6 months and is in a wonderful place.

Perfect summer drinking.

Antoniolo Erbaluce d’Caluso DOC 2022

Erbaluce | Italy, Alto Piemonte

If you've never tried Erbaluce before this is a bloody good place to start!Like Timorasso & Nascetta this is a varietal to watch!Tasting the 2020 it was clear that like Cogno's Nascetta, Antoniolo's Erbaluce benefits from a hear in bottle to settle.Notes on the 20202nd Taste Oct 2022 - Very Good, super racy zippy acid coming together nicely resolved filled out. Looks good fun crisp. Perfect summer drinking. Elevage is there. Spice, the overt traminer, savvy b herbaceous t
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Filters & Sorting

Cappellano Barbera Gabutti 2019

Barbera | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

The 2019 Barbera d'Alba Gabutti is a delicate, perfumed Barbera with a Nebbiolo-like feeling of mid-weight structure. Succulent dark cherry fruit, tobacco, spice, leather, menthol and blood orange are pushed forward. A kick of bright acids on the finish keeps things vibrant. This unique, idiosyncratic Barbera is compelling. I have no doubt Cappellano fans with love it. Drink 2024-2034Antonio Galloni - NR as per request from Cappellano
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Giuseppe Cortese Barbaresco Rabajà 2020

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barbaresco

🍇RABAJÀ RABAJÀ RABAJÀ 🇮🇹 I’ve seen some bolder Barbaresco from 2020. Cortese is fresh and energetic with a clear step up in fruit quality commensurate with the coin. This is so well-balanced and alive. Impressive gear from an estate that just shows so much consistency year after year. The blood orange is there backed by a darker, richer yet still transparent, elegant core of fruit. The dusting of tannin again beautifully weighted with extra depth and length. A sophisticated perfum
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Vietti Barbera ‘Vigna Vecchia Scarrone’ 2022

Barbera | Piedmont, Castiglione Falletto

The last bottle of this I had was a 2013 to start a Vietti Barolo session including Riservas from 1997 and 1982. It was one of the wines of the night. Incredibly intensity. The mid palate weight and layering of both flavours and tannins is ridiculously impressive. So fine and long. Deceptively complex with wonderful earthiness, so pretty, flowers. Excellent acid tannin complex. A generosity that has been tamed. Impeccable fruit. Definitely pulled back oak use massively to the point that it is an
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Giovanni Sordo Barolo 2010
2010! That's Right!

Giovanni Sordo Barolo 2010

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

Here’s a wine that it pays to know the inside story. Many of you know Sordo currently has 8 Cru wines with more in the pipeline. The two most recent additions have been their Monprivato and Villero. Although they have had worked with the vineyards and fruit for decades they haven’t bottled them individually. So where did the fruit end up? In 2010 it ended up right here in the Barolo Classico and it shows!The La Morra portion, the majority is Galina. With fruit from the likes of Scarrone,
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Giovanni Sordo Barolo ‘Gabutti’ 2019

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

A wonderful expression of Serralunga, all of the tea, slate, graphite, exceptional quality tannins, with a presence and sophistication. The firm mouthfeel of seriously good Serralunga tannins. Again such a complete wine. The nose draws you in. Begging you to drink. A darkness and energy that is palpable.Impressive gear. Precise, and pure, wearing the vineyard and commune on its sleeve. Superb fruit of depth and length. Insane Texture! Great drinking here with much much more to come
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Giovanni Sordo Barolo ‘Perno’ 2019

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

All of those Monforte tannins offering up a delightfully edgy mouthfeel. Understanding of how Sordo's Perno evolves, you can see exactly where this will end up. Grap a 2015, 2010 Riserva, 2008, 2004 or 2001 from our museum collection and you'll see!Yes it’s tight now. Give it 5 years and you will go to a very happy place. The 2010 Perno Riserva and 2008 Gabutti Riserva where the first 2 Sordo Barolos I drank. They lit a fire and I see everything in the 2019 that excited me about the 2010.
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Wow! A sensational Rocche. At this early stage in its life it sit with harmony, together. Expressive, a long even palate, stunning tannins that caress. The perfume is intoxicating, faded flowers of Castiglione Falletto. A superb core of fruit of exceptional length.Year in year out this is in the top 3 of Sordo 8 Barolo Crus. It looks like this year will be no different. Savoury, a little salty and earthy. This will be long lived. Beautifullly composed
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Greater complexity than Ravera at this early stage in its life. Florals, earthy, truffled layers on red fruits with classic roses and woody herbs at play. Hints of baking spice, it feels a little more relaxed at this stage compared to the Ravera.Excellent tannins, fine, precise, long and even matching the fruit through the full length of the palate. Outstanding purity. A superb expression of Verduno.
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Giovanni Sordo Barolo ‘Ravera’ 2019

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

Juicy red fruits that heart shaped Ravera profile, the fruit start broader across the palate and tapering away. Supple refined tannins, long juicy acid with a pleasing tang. Again grape first, tight-knit and pure.The most overtly acid of the Crus, it has loads more to come as the acid resolves with time and secondary development sees this relax and build generosity and complexity. A wonderful Ravera
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Roagna Timorasso Derthona Montemarzino 2017

Timorasso | Colli Tortonesi, Italy

A grape variety saved by saved by Massa & on the rise! With Vietti and Roagna adding their names to the few making Timorasso, it's clear something special is happening in Derthona (the old name for Tortona).I've tried the Massa's entry level version and loved its flavours and textures. Can't wait to try Roagna's version.
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Vajra Barolo ‘Coste di Rose’ 2017

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

The 2017 Barolo Coste di Rose is pretty, supple and inviting. Some of the tannins need to resolve, but this is a young Barolo after all. The Coste di Rose doesn't have the sensuality of the Albe or the pedigree of the Viole, but it nevertheless has so much to give. Crushed flowers, sweet red berry fruit, mint, crushed rocks and sage are some of the many notes that linger. I won't be surprised if the 2017 is even better than this note suggests once it softens a bit.  Galloni
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Barale Barolo ‘Bussia’ 2018

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

Oh so pretty! This is very well played. Bussia is right in the north of Monforte, which as a whole was very poorly defined during the MGA classification. It tends to produce wines of more elegance than many of the Crus further south in Monforte. Barale’s 2018s have been beautifully composed. The Bussia tannins are fine and restrained. The development and oxidative handling demands quality fruit and it has that with a solid core of red fruits layered in with savoury, earthy notes. I’m enjoyin
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