Location

Italy

Ahhh … Italy! Home of renaissance literature, philosophy, science and some of the most heart warming food in the world. From North to South it would be a fair guess to say the only thing outnumbering churches and Vespa’s are the vast areas of vineyards.

One thing is certain, you’ll never run short of choice!

First Records of Wine Production – Go back millennia!

Founding Figures – The Greek colonisation marked a shift from vine grown in the wild to planned viticulture around 800 BC the Romans dramatically expanded production around 200 BC. The Italians never looked back!

Area Planted – Around 700,000 hectares making around 19% of the world’s wine!

Number of Wineries – Soave alone is made by 3,500 producers. That’s around the same number of wineries as in all of Australia! From gargistes to industrial scale conglomerates every Italian has a winemaker in the family.

Established Regions – Every region in Italy produces wine! The most prestigious region Piedmont is home to the stunning Nebbiolos of Barolo & Barbaresco. The Chianti and Brunello of Tuscany following hot on Piedmont’s heals. These are just a drop in the ocean!

In typical Italian style the classification systems of each region vary and are often skewed by influential persons with much to gain over the quality of the industry. As always we need to rely on our taste buds as the ultimate decider of quality!

Most Common VarietiesIn his book ‘Native Wine Grapes of Italy’ Ian D’Agata documents around 500 Italian grape varieties, by no means the complete set! Around 350 of these have been granted authorized status. There’s plenty to try! We’ve seen a push to save some of the notable, rare varietals like the white Nascetta and Arneis from Piedmont. 

Whilst we have seen an ingress of French Varietals, the most notable being the Cabernet Varietals + Syrah used to make the Super Tuscans, the Italians have, by and large stayed true to their roots.

White – Whites of note: Arneis (Piedmont), Cataratto (Sicily), Fiano (southwest coast), Friulano (Friuli), Gargenaga (Veneto – the Soave grape), Greco di Tufo (southwest coast), Malvasia Bianca (throughout Italy), Moscato Blanc (Piedmont), Pecorino (Abruzzo), Pinot Grigo (Why?), Ribolla Gialla (Friulli), Trebbiano (Abruzzo), Verdicchio (Marche) and Vermentino (Sardinia, Tuscany and Liguria).

Red – Aglianico (Campania), Barbera (Piedmont), Corvina blended with Rondinella to make Amarone, Dolcetto (Piedmont), Malvasia Nera (Puglia), Montepuliciano (Tuscany), Nebbiolo (Piedmont), Negaromaro (Puglia), Nero d’Avola (Sicily), Primitivo (Puglia), Sagrantino (Umbria) and Sangiovese (Tuscany).

Up and Coming Regions – Beyond Barolo and Barbaresco, around the world we have seen Amarone, Chianti, Soave, Prosecco, Verdicchio and the wines of Puglia gain strong recognition. In recent times the increasing cost of Barolo in particular has seen exploration of Nebbiolo from Alto Piedmonte and Valtellina. At the opposite end of the country, in part due to the investment of heavy hitters like ‘Barolo Boy’ Marco di Grazie (Terre Nere) and Andrea Franchetti (Passopisciaro) the Nerello Mascelese (red) and Carricante (white) wines of Etna, Sicily have become world recognised. Nerello Mascelese being described as some as the Barolo of the South or a cross between Nebbiolo and Pinot. I prefer to call it delicious!


A Treasure Hunt for the Lost Whites of Italy!


Timorasso ~ Nascetta ~ Erbaluce

3 Italian Whites Saved from Extinction!

Of the thousands of grape varieties that exist, and even more clones of each variety, few make it into our glass.

Many have been lost. Economic reality making them not viable.

Advances in viticulture, changes in climate and the passion of a few individuals have saved a few!

For that we are thankful!


Timorasso


The Saviours

Walter & Claudio along with their shared cellarmaster ‘Pigi’ are both the saviours & masters of Timorasso! The hold some of the oldest plantings making wine of great complexity, texture. Composed & full of personality.

Walter describes his Derthona as a “Modern Antique”.

Monlia Colli Tortonesi Timorasso 2021

Timorasso | Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi

Released 6 months later than the 2020 and it shows immediately. The extra time offers up a beautifully resolved wine. There’s something about the texture, aroma and flavour profile of good Italian white. That silvery line of bitterness that graces the finish. Out to play, seamless, the texture is refined with an excellent phenolic play married to fine acid. When Pietro visited Wine Deoced HQ we talked of the gentle development large oak casks offer whilst retaining freshness in a wine. This is
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NOTE on the 2022: An excellent follow up to the 2021. A slightly more generous iteration. All of the elements once again at play. Texture, clever use of oxidative handling to build intrigue whilst maintaining a core of vibrant fruit and mineral acidity. Citrus zest and oils with pears and a little candied ginger. White flowers dance over the top with a little savoury hit. Flowing and luscious, chalky, savoury, spiced, sapidity in a cleansing way. Plenty of intrigue and interest here. An exceptio
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Vietti Derthona Timorasso Colli Tortonesi 2020

Timorasso | Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi

The latest addition to the Vietti portfolio sees a white from the eastern most border of the Piedmont region. A perfect fit for Vietti with regard to their history of working with varietals of merit that for one reason or another have diminished over time.Timorasso makes beautiful wine the Massa is a cracker. I can't wait to try Vietti's version. With a wonderful array of flavours, textures, and, wonderful acidity the variety is loaded with personality & intrigue.For the 2019: Th
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Vigneti Massa Timorasso 'Derthona' 2022
Delicious!

Vigneti Massa Timorasso ‘Derthona’ 2022

Timorasso | Italy, Colli Tortonesi

From near extinction the Massa family have saved Timorasso, for that I am truly thankful! Massa's Derthona is the perfect introduction to the serious end of the spectrum of Timorasso.The note is a dead ringer for the 2021 although there is perhaps an edge more energy, depth and length in the 2022.Excellent build in depth and length with excellent oxidative line that sits perfectly with fine acid and insane lemon oil and those mega lemons you could eat straight + apricot kernel.. Great de
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Explore all of our Timorasso!


Nascetta


The Saviour

Elvio Cogno with his plantings in Novello, Barolo is turning out intoxicating wines from Nascetta. As he says they need a year or 2 in bottle to reveal their full potential. Grab a 2019 to drink now and 2020 next summer!

Nascetta - Italy's answer to Gewurztraminer. Fragrant, spicy and fresh.This is a fun, youthful wine that is drinking well now but could possibly benefit from a little more time to develop, allowing the fruit and underlying structure to better harmonise. Wonderful aromas come swinging out of the glass, with pops of pity citrus, yellow stone fruits, white blossoms and a line of saline minerality. The palate marries ripe, juicy fruit with a savoury lines of lees and spicy white pepper; gentle p
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Erbaluce


The Champion

Erbaluce can make many styles of from sparkling, late harvest & passito wines.

Antoniolo’s is a wonderfully fresh and crunchy dry white style. The 2020 has settled, resolving beautifully over the last 6 months and is in a wonderful place.

Perfect summer drinking.

Antoniolo Erbaluce d’Caluso DOC 2022

Erbaluce | Italy, Alto Piemonte

If you've never tried Erbaluce before this is a bloody good place to start!Like Timorasso & Nascetta this is a varietal to watch!Tasting the 2020 it was clear that like Cogno's Nascetta, Antoniolo's Erbaluce benefits from a hear in bottle to settle.Notes on the 20202nd Taste Oct 2022 - Very Good, super racy zippy acid coming together nicely resolved filled out. Looks good fun crisp. Perfect summer drinking. Elevage is there. Spice, the overt traminer, savvy b herbaceous t
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Filters & Sorting

Domenico Clerico Barolo di Monforte 2021

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

This is an excellent evolution for Clerico. The Barolo di Monforte has wonderful harmony. Very expressive, where historically Monforte shows much firmer, structured tannins.  Demonstrating how the hand of the maker can create a wine that is more approachable upon release.The tannins are exceptional, long, even and fine. Yes, structurally present in a very good way and with the core of fruit to hold them. This will undoubtedly deliver more in the bottle as it resolves and the secondary devel
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Figli Luigi Oddero Barolo 2017
A Masterpiece!

Figli Luigi Oddero Barolo 2017

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

A blend of fruit from 30% La Morra’s Rive, 30% Castiglione Falletto’s Scarrone, & 40% Serralunga’s Baudana & Broglio. Aged in new 75-85HL Gamba botti for 26 months. "Rose, ripe berry, menthol and sunbaked earth aromas come to the forefront. On the full-bodied palate, enveloping, seasoned tannins accompany dried black cherry, star anise and tobacco. Drink 2024–2029."Kerin O'Keefe
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Vajra Barolo 'Albe' 2016
🇮🇹A Vajra Classic 🍷

Vajra Barolo ‘Albe’ 2016

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo (sub-region)

If you were to consider the entire portfolio of wines made in the Barolo appellation, this wine always stands in its own little corner. Albe is a brand on its own, and it represents one of the most versatile, accessible and well-priced Baroli to emerge from the appellation. The G.D. Vajra 2016 Barolo Albe sets off on the right foot, offering forthcoming intensity with forest fruit, wild cherry, crushed stone and blue flowers. Winemaking is straightforward in stainless steel, and the wine finishe
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The 1st Commune di Verduno Barolo from Fratelli Alessandria! This is a hero statement for the 2017 vintage! Well played my friends, well played! The first 100% Verduno Barolo from Fratelli Alessandria and it’s a beauty. Take the Prinsiot, already excellent, add another couple of layers of development, greater depth of tannin and you’re through the first couple of chapters of this book. A lot going on here. Complex, earthy truffle pops, dark fruit, long linear palate with exceptional mid-pala
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Giovanni Rosso Barolo del Comune di Serralunga 2016

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

The very definition of purity. Perfume, Line & Length, Lush Mouthfeel! Giovanni Rosso’s fabulously good value Barolo Comune di Serralunga d’Alba is made from fruit grown across 8 different estate vineyards in Serralunga d’Alba. The fruit is sourced from Crus such as Cerretta and Serra, also released as single vineyard bottlings, as well as Meriame, Sorano, Costabella, and BaudanaA divine Serralunga, it has everything, and, in all the right places.Those who have tried even the Langh
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Luigi Pira Barolo ‘Marenca’ 2017

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Italy

Classic south/south-west exposure. The only difference in the vinification process is the oak maturation. Around 50% goes into large-format aged botti and the remainder in tonneaux, partially new (1 year in tonneaux and 1 year in large botti). ‘Marenca’ is only offered as a cru Barolo by Pira – the other owner, Angelo Gaja, use theirs (along with their ‘Margheria’) in Barolo ‘Sperss’. The nose is fresh, with complex aromas that range from wild berries to dark chocolate and dried he
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Talenti Brunello di Montalcino 2019

Sangiovese | Tuscany, Italy

This would have to be the single best value Brunello I've tried in the last few years. I still vividly remember the first release of this wine I drank, the 2016. Straight out of the gate this is just beautiful. The harmony and complexity match a plush, fine mouthfeel of divine tannins. Generosity meets restraint in a beautiful place. Layered with red fruits, darker fruits, a little perfume over earthiness, baking spices, woody herbs, and much, much more.This would have to be the single best
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Albino Rocca ‘Cottà’ Barbaresco 2021

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barbaresco

With fruit from a half-hectare south-facing parcel in Neive, the 2021 Barbaresco Cottà is not as immediately floral or fragrant as the village Barbaresco presented this year by Albino Rocca. This wine opens at a slower pace to reveal dark cherry fruit, candied orange peel and smoky licorice. It's a slow-moving Barbaresco that continues to show more depth and interesting angles the longer it stays in the glass. This bottle registers the highest alcohol content (at 15%) of the three single-vineya
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Antoniolo Gattinara Riserva DOCG 2017

Nebbiolo | Italy, Alto Piemonte

The Gattinara Riserva has an entrancing set of aromas and flavours, dark fruits, woody herbs, a little savoury and truffly with a top note perfume to round it out. Fresh yet beautifully developed, flowing with generous fruit of a weightless feel. The mouthfeel has a vitalising grip that sits beautifully with juicy, fine acid. Fantastic drinking!It feels like the 2016 with a little extra pop of energy!That my friends is the 3-peat! Antoniolo's Gattinaras from 2015, 2016 & 2017 are
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The first wine I tried from the Cigliano di Sopra was the 2021 Classico. It's a bloody tasty expression of Sangiovese. It shows a hell of a lot of comfort and clarity of thought in their winemaking from this young duo. They are at the forefront of a new wave like Carleone pushing hard to drive Chianti to new height. Think harmony, balance, grape first, fun wine. The Riserva is looking very sharp. All of the hallmarks of the Classico levelled up. Old school Chianti Classico Riservas are often ov
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Castello dei Rampolla ‘Sammarco’ 2018

Red Blend | Tuscany, Chianti Classico

Apparently I haven't been trying the right Cabernet based blends from Italy. I used to bag them. Now I'm finding so much pleasure with so many of them! Cabernet & Merlot power through in the Sammarco with Sangiovese playing a supporting role. A fascinating wine. Don't think of it as Cabernet from Bordeaux or Australia, think of it an excellent red wine. A lovely core of sweet black fruit is wrapped in playful, appropriately edgy tannins with just the right amount of grip. It's rustic, no I d
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Well played my friends, well played! The 3rd 100% Verduno Barolo from Fratelli Alessandria and it’s a beauty. Take the Prinsiot, already excellent, add another couple of layers of development, greater depth of tannin & you’re through the first couple of chapters of this book. An entrancing perfume ... the roses, baking spices, savoury lines, over a foundation of fruit. Tannins flow long & fine, beautifully weighted against the complex, layered flavour profile & energising gracefu
$153
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