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Italy

Ahhh … Italy! Home of renaissance literature, philosophy, science and some of the most heart warming food in the world. From North to South it would be a fair guess to say the only thing outnumbering churches and Vespa’s are the vast areas of vineyards.

One thing is certain, you’ll never run short of choice!

First Records of Wine Production – Go back millennia!

Founding Figures – The Greek colonisation marked a shift from vine grown in the wild to planned viticulture around 800 BC the Romans dramatically expanded production around 200 BC. The Italians never looked back!

Area Planted – Around 700,000 hectares making around 19% of the world’s wine!

Number of Wineries – Soave alone is made by 3,500 producers. That’s around the same number of wineries as in all of Australia! From gargistes to industrial scale conglomerates every Italian has a winemaker in the family.

Established Regions – Every region in Italy produces wine! The most prestigious region Piedmont is home to the stunning Nebbiolos of Barolo & Barbaresco. The Chianti and Brunello of Tuscany following hot on Piedmont’s heals. These are just a drop in the ocean!

In typical Italian style the classification systems of each region vary and are often skewed by influential persons with much to gain over the quality of the industry. As always we need to rely on our taste buds as the ultimate decider of quality!

Most Common VarietiesIn his book ‘Native Wine Grapes of Italy’ Ian D’Agata documents around 500 Italian grape varieties, by no means the complete set! Around 350 of these have been granted authorized status. There’s plenty to try! We’ve seen a push to save some of the notable, rare varietals like the white Nascetta and Arneis from Piedmont. 

Whilst we have seen an ingress of French Varietals, the most notable being the Cabernet Varietals + Syrah used to make the Super Tuscans, the Italians have, by and large stayed true to their roots.

White – Whites of note: Arneis (Piedmont), Cataratto (Sicily), Fiano (southwest coast), Friulano (Friuli), Gargenaga (Veneto – the Soave grape), Greco di Tufo (southwest coast), Malvasia Bianca (throughout Italy), Moscato Blanc (Piedmont), Pecorino (Abruzzo), Pinot Grigo (Why?), Ribolla Gialla (Friulli), Trebbiano (Abruzzo), Verdicchio (Marche) and Vermentino (Sardinia, Tuscany and Liguria).

Red – Aglianico (Campania), Barbera (Piedmont), Corvina blended with Rondinella to make Amarone, Dolcetto (Piedmont), Malvasia Nera (Puglia), Montepuliciano (Tuscany), Nebbiolo (Piedmont), Negaromaro (Puglia), Nero d’Avola (Sicily), Primitivo (Puglia), Sagrantino (Umbria) and Sangiovese (Tuscany).

Up and Coming Regions – Beyond Barolo and Barbaresco, around the world we have seen Amarone, Chianti, Soave, Prosecco, Verdicchio and the wines of Puglia gain strong recognition. In recent times the increasing cost of Barolo in particular has seen exploration of Nebbiolo from Alto Piedmonte and Valtellina. At the opposite end of the country, in part due to the investment of heavy hitters like ‘Barolo Boy’ Marco di Grazie (Terre Nere) and Andrea Franchetti (Passopisciaro) the Nerello Mascelese (red) and Carricante (white) wines of Etna, Sicily have become world recognised. Nerello Mascelese being described as some as the Barolo of the South or a cross between Nebbiolo and Pinot. I prefer to call it delicious!


A Treasure Hunt for the Lost Whites of Italy!


Timorasso ~ Nascetta ~ Erbaluce

3 Italian Whites Saved from Extinction!

Of the thousands of grape varieties that exist, and even more clones of each variety, few make it into our glass.

Many have been lost. Economic reality making them not viable.

Advances in viticulture, changes in climate and the passion of a few individuals have saved a few!

For that we are thankful!


Timorasso


The Saviours

Walter & Claudio along with their shared cellarmaster ‘Pigi’ are both the saviours & masters of Timorasso! The hold some of the oldest plantings making wine of great complexity, texture. Composed & full of personality.

Walter describes his Derthona as a “Modern Antique”.

Monlia Colli Tortonesi Timorasso 2021

Timorasso | Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi

Released 6 months later than the 2020 and it shows immediately. The extra time offers up a beautifully resolved wine. There’s something about the texture, aroma and flavour profile of good Italian white. That silvery line of bitterness that graces the finish. Out to play, seamless, the texture is refined with an excellent phenolic play married to fine acid. When Pietro visited Wine Deoced HQ we talked of the gentle development large oak casks offer whilst retaining freshness in a wine. This is
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NOTE on the 2022: An excellent follow up to the 2021. A slightly more generous iteration. All of the elements once again at play. Texture, clever use of oxidative handling to build intrigue whilst maintaining a core of vibrant fruit and mineral acidity. Citrus zest and oils with pears and a little candied ginger. White flowers dance over the top with a little savoury hit. Flowing and luscious, chalky, savoury, spiced, sapidity in a cleansing way. Plenty of intrigue and interest here. An exceptio
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Vietti Derthona Timorasso Colli Tortonesi 2020

Timorasso | Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi

The latest addition to the Vietti portfolio sees a white from the eastern most border of the Piedmont region. A perfect fit for Vietti with regard to their history of working with varietals of merit that for one reason or another have diminished over time.Timorasso makes beautiful wine the Massa is a cracker. I can't wait to try Vietti's version. With a wonderful array of flavours, textures, and, wonderful acidity the variety is loaded with personality & intrigue.For the 2019: Th
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Vigneti Massa Timorasso 'Derthona' 2022
Delicious!

Vigneti Massa Timorasso ‘Derthona’ 2022

Timorasso | Italy, Colli Tortonesi

From near extinction the Massa family have saved Timorasso, for that I am truly thankful! Massa's Derthona is the perfect introduction to the serious end of the spectrum of Timorasso.The note is a dead ringer for the 2021 although there is perhaps an edge more energy, depth and length in the 2022.Excellent build in depth and length with excellent oxidative line that sits perfectly with fine acid and insane lemon oil and those mega lemons you could eat straight + apricot kernel.. Great de
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Explore all of our Timorasso!


Nascetta


The Saviour

Elvio Cogno with his plantings in Novello, Barolo is turning out intoxicating wines from Nascetta. As he says they need a year or 2 in bottle to reveal their full potential. Grab a 2019 to drink now and 2020 next summer!

Nascetta - Italy's answer to Gewurztraminer. Fragrant, spicy and fresh.This is a fun, youthful wine that is drinking well now but could possibly benefit from a little more time to develop, allowing the fruit and underlying structure to better harmonise. Wonderful aromas come swinging out of the glass, with pops of pity citrus, yellow stone fruits, white blossoms and a line of saline minerality. The palate marries ripe, juicy fruit with a savoury lines of lees and spicy white pepper; gentle p
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Erbaluce


The Champion

Erbaluce can make many styles of from sparkling, late harvest & passito wines.

Antoniolo’s is a wonderfully fresh and crunchy dry white style. The 2020 has settled, resolving beautifully over the last 6 months and is in a wonderful place.

Perfect summer drinking.

Antoniolo Erbaluce d’Caluso DOC 2022

Erbaluce | Italy, Alto Piemonte

If you've never tried Erbaluce before this is a bloody good place to start!Like Timorasso & Nascetta this is a varietal to watch!Tasting the 2020 it was clear that like Cogno's Nascetta, Antoniolo's Erbaluce benefits from a hear in bottle to settle.Notes on the 20202nd Taste Oct 2022 - Very Good, super racy zippy acid coming together nicely resolved filled out. Looks good fun crisp. Perfect summer drinking. Elevage is there. Spice, the overt traminer, savvy b herbaceous t
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Filters & Sorting

Antoniolo Gattinara Riserva DOCG 2016

Nebbiolo | Italy, Alto Piemonte

Seriously impressive gear. Antoniolo's 2016's have excellent, long linear shape. Galloni's call on power and intensity is spot on. I'd add grace and poise. Nuanced, complex, and layered. The fruit profile is excellent.This is one of the most exciting Nebbiolos I've had in some time. Given our rotating list of over 300 available Nebbiolos that is no small statement. I could wax lyrical about aromas and flavours, let's just say they are entrancing. The mouthfeel has a vitalising grip that sits
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Oddero Barbaresco ‘Gallina’ 2019

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barbaresco

Oddero are doing such a wonderful job with this vineyard! Youthful and in need of a decant if you crack it young. Everything is there and in the right places. Energetic, vibrant red fruits, with a pleasant grip, hints of tar and an expressive perfume. Loads of fun to be had here.The best Barbaresco's from 2019 make for exhilarating drinking.Paul Kaan, WINE DECODEDThe 2019 Barbaresco Gallina is a very pretty, effusive wine. Crushed raspberry, flowers, mint and sweet pipe tobacco a
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Girolamo Russo 'Feudo di Mezzo' Etna Rosso 2020
Only 1,000 Bottles!
The Girolamo Russo 2020 Etna Rosso Feudo di Mezzo opens to a hint of salinity or minerality that is specific to this site. Those linear aromas tend to frame a tight core of wild fruit, white cherry, apricot and mountain flowers like blue bonnet or Sicilian ginestra, which grows with yellow blooms on the flanks of the volcano. The wine's interesting saltiness cedes directly to the mouthfeel. The tannins are more prominent in this vintage. You should get very good aging potential from this bottle.
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Vietti ‘Perbacco’ Langhe Nebbiolo MAGNUM 2020

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barbaresco

Two of the best value Neb's on the market have to be Vietti's Castiglione Barolo and this wine Vietti's Perbacco! Every year I put away a box of Perbacco Magnums! They make for a wicked party wine!The 2020 Langhe Nebbiolo Perbacco is another terrific entry-level wine from Vietti. In this vintage, the Perbacco is especially fine. Sweet dried cherry, herbs, mint, crushed flowers, anise and orange peel grace this striking, alluring Nebbiolo. There's tons of depth and sheer pedigree, things
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Luigi Baudana Barolo Comune di Serralunga 2021

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

The Luigi Baudana 2021 Barolo del Comune di Serralunga d’Alba shows rich fruit delivered as cooked cherry with background tones of cinnamon, red rose and ferrous earth. The tannins are sweet but also firm, and you get plenty of streamlined fruit on the close. The three sites used in the blend are Baudana, Costa Bella and Cerretta.Monica Larner, The Wine Advocate 94 Points AG 92
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Figli Luigi Oddero 'Rombone' Barbaresco 2017
Stunning!
The dream team has been at it again! With Luciano in the vineyards, Francesco and Dante in the both vineyard and winery some sort of crazy wine magic is happening! The dream team has been at it again! With Luciano in the vineyards, Francesco and Dante in the both vineyard and winery some sort of crazy wine magic is happening.The 2017 backs up beautifully from an outstanding 2016. Pure, fine, divine perfume, with excellent mouthfeel. Again, a demonstration of just how good these guys are at b
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Giuseppe Cortese Barbaresco Rabajà 2019

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barbaresco

🍇RABAJÀ RABAJÀ RABAJÀ 🇮🇹 The 2019 Barbaresco Rabaja is a powerful, austere wine that is going to need a number of years to come around. I very much like the energy, but readers should not plan on opening a bottle any time soon, as the 2019 is seriously tannic and shut down at the moment. It’s a gorgeous Barbaresco that shows the more elegant hand that defines the approach today.Antonio Galloni, Vinous 94 PointsThe Rabajà sees a jump in sophistication depth and length.
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Luigi Baudana Barolo Comune di Serralunga 2019

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

This wine is a blend of fruit from Baudana, Cerretta and Costabella. The Luigi Baudana 2019 Barolo del Comune di Serralunga d'Alba shows the firmness and structure that this village is known for with pretty perfumes of rose, rusty nail, autumnal leaf, licorice and tar. Costabella is an early-ripening site, and fruit is sourced from the youngest vines in Cerretta and Baudana (leaving a selection from the older vines for the single-vineyard wines).Monica Larner, The Wine Advocate 93 Points AG
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Figli Luigi Oddero 'Rombone' Barbaresco 2018
Stunning!
With Luciano in the vineyards, Francesco and Dante in both vineyard and winery some sort of crazy wine magic is happening! The dream team has been at it again!The Figli Luigi Oddero 2018 Barbaresco Rombone opens to tart cherry fruit and plum, with some sweet earthy tones or tobacco at the back. The wine feels rich and well concentrated to the palate, with a touch of extra ripeness that comes as a surprise for a vintage that was relatively cool and cloudy overall. If you love the bright prima
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Tenuta di Carleone ‘Il Guercio’ 2021

Sangiovese | Tuscany, Chianti Classico

Named after a Tuscan word for "one-eyed rascal," the Tenuta di Carleone 2021 Il Guercio (in a bottle with a white wax capsule) is all Sangiovese with up to 40% whole cluster and as a much as five months of extended maceration in cement vats only.The wine delivers a very clear and variety-faithful expression with bright plum, wild cherry and iris root. You can taste the artisanal approach of this pretty wine. There are dusty limestone sensations that add to a cooling finish. Fruit comes from
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Castell’In Villa Chianti Classico Riserva 2013

Sangiovese | Castelnuovo Berardenga, Italy

A Level Up from the Incredibly Good Chianti Classico! No wonder Walter Speller has it in his Top 5 Chianti Wines! There's a big difference between the mouthfeel of Sangiovese for Montalcino and Chianti. Just like this one Sangio from Chianti tends to have line and length of tannin similar to that of varietals like Cabernet, all the way along your palate. Sangio from Montalcino tends to have broader mouther filling tannins, not necessarily bigger or more tannic, just covering the width of your to
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The Girolamo Russo 2021 Etna Rosso San Lorenzo is a very exciting wine with so much energy and verve. It opens to lean-bodied concentration with a brilliant ruby shine. The wine shows a long array of wild fruit and tiny berry aromas backed by crushed white pepper and crushed stone. San Lorenzo is one of the most impressive interpretations of Etna. I highly recommend you try and cellar this wine.Monica Larner, The Wine Advocate 96+ Points12 ha between 700 and 800m altitude, some 100-y
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