Location

Italy

Ahhh … Italy! Home of renaissance literature, philosophy, science and some of the most heart warming food in the world. From North to South it would be a fair guess to say the only thing outnumbering churches and Vespa’s are the vast areas of vineyards.

One thing is certain, you’ll never run short of choice!

First Records of Wine Production – Go back millennia!

Founding Figures – The Greek colonisation marked a shift from vine grown in the wild to planned viticulture around 800 BC the Romans dramatically expanded production around 200 BC. The Italians never looked back!

Area Planted – Around 700,000 hectares making around 19% of the world’s wine!

Number of Wineries – Soave alone is made by 3,500 producers. That’s around the same number of wineries as in all of Australia! From gargistes to industrial scale conglomerates every Italian has a winemaker in the family.

Established Regions – Every region in Italy produces wine! The most prestigious region Piedmont is home to the stunning Nebbiolos of Barolo & Barbaresco. The Chianti and Brunello of Tuscany following hot on Piedmont’s heals. These are just a drop in the ocean!

In typical Italian style the classification systems of each region vary and are often skewed by influential persons with much to gain over the quality of the industry. As always we need to rely on our taste buds as the ultimate decider of quality!

Most Common VarietiesIn his book ‘Native Wine Grapes of Italy’ Ian D’Agata documents around 500 Italian grape varieties, by no means the complete set! Around 350 of these have been granted authorized status. There’s plenty to try! We’ve seen a push to save some of the notable, rare varietals like the white Nascetta and Arneis from Piedmont. 

Whilst we have seen an ingress of French Varietals, the most notable being the Cabernet Varietals + Syrah used to make the Super Tuscans, the Italians have, by and large stayed true to their roots.

White – Whites of note: Arneis (Piedmont), Cataratto (Sicily), Fiano (southwest coast), Friulano (Friuli), Gargenaga (Veneto – the Soave grape), Greco di Tufo (southwest coast), Malvasia Bianca (throughout Italy), Moscato Blanc (Piedmont), Pecorino (Abruzzo), Pinot Grigo (Why?), Ribolla Gialla (Friulli), Trebbiano (Abruzzo), Verdicchio (Marche) and Vermentino (Sardinia, Tuscany and Liguria).

Red – Aglianico (Campania), Barbera (Piedmont), Corvina blended with Rondinella to make Amarone, Dolcetto (Piedmont), Malvasia Nera (Puglia), Montepuliciano (Tuscany), Nebbiolo (Piedmont), Negaromaro (Puglia), Nero d’Avola (Sicily), Primitivo (Puglia), Sagrantino (Umbria) and Sangiovese (Tuscany).

Up and Coming Regions – Beyond Barolo and Barbaresco, around the world we have seen Amarone, Chianti, Soave, Prosecco, Verdicchio and the wines of Puglia gain strong recognition. In recent times the increasing cost of Barolo in particular has seen exploration of Nebbiolo from Alto Piedmonte and Valtellina. At the opposite end of the country, in part due to the investment of heavy hitters like ‘Barolo Boy’ Marco di Grazie (Terre Nere) and Andrea Franchetti (Passopisciaro) the Nerello Mascelese (red) and Carricante (white) wines of Etna, Sicily have become world recognised. Nerello Mascelese being described as some as the Barolo of the South or a cross between Nebbiolo and Pinot. I prefer to call it delicious!


A Treasure Hunt for the Lost Whites of Italy!


Timorasso ~ Nascetta ~ Erbaluce

3 Italian Whites Saved from Extinction!

Of the thousands of grape varieties that exist, and even more clones of each variety, few make it into our glass.

Many have been lost. Economic reality making them not viable.

Advances in viticulture, changes in climate and the passion of a few individuals have saved a few!

For that we are thankful!


Timorasso


The Saviours

Walter & Claudio along with their shared cellarmaster ‘Pigi’ are both the saviours & masters of Timorasso! The hold some of the oldest plantings making wine of great complexity, texture. Composed & full of personality.

Walter describes his Derthona as a “Modern Antique”.

Monlia Colli Tortonesi Timorasso 2021

Timorasso | Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi

Released 6 months later than the 2020 and it shows immediately. The extra time offers up a beautifully resolved wine. There’s something about the texture, aroma and flavour profile of good Italian white. That silvery line of bitterness that graces the finish. Out to play, seamless, the texture is refined with an excellent phenolic play married to fine acid. When Pietro visited Wine Deoced HQ we talked of the gentle development large oak casks offer whilst retaining freshness in a wine. This is
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NOTE on the 2022: An excellent follow up to the 2021. A slightly more generous iteration. All of the elements once again at play. Texture, clever use of oxidative handling to build intrigue whilst maintaining a core of vibrant fruit and mineral acidity. Citrus zest and oils with pears and a little candied ginger. White flowers dance over the top with a little savoury hit. Flowing and luscious, chalky, savoury, spiced, sapidity in a cleansing way. Plenty of intrigue and interest here. An exceptio
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Vietti Derthona Timorasso Colli Tortonesi 2020

Timorasso | Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi

The latest addition to the Vietti portfolio sees a white from the eastern most border of the Piedmont region. A perfect fit for Vietti with regard to their history of working with varietals of merit that for one reason or another have diminished over time.Timorasso makes beautiful wine the Massa is a cracker. I can't wait to try Vietti's version. With a wonderful array of flavours, textures, and, wonderful acidity the variety is loaded with personality & intrigue.For the 2019: Th
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Vigneti Massa Timorasso 'Derthona' 2022
Delicious!

Vigneti Massa Timorasso ‘Derthona’ 2022

Timorasso | Italy, Colli Tortonesi

From near extinction the Massa family have saved Timorasso, for that I am truly thankful! Massa's Derthona is the perfect introduction to the serious end of the spectrum of Timorasso.The note is a dead ringer for the 2021 although there is perhaps an edge more energy, depth and length in the 2022.Excellent build in depth and length with excellent oxidative line that sits perfectly with fine acid and insane lemon oil and those mega lemons you could eat straight + apricot kernel.. Great de
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Explore all of our Timorasso!


Nascetta


The Saviour

Elvio Cogno with his plantings in Novello, Barolo is turning out intoxicating wines from Nascetta. As he says they need a year or 2 in bottle to reveal their full potential. Grab a 2019 to drink now and 2020 next summer!

Nascetta - Italy's answer to Gewurztraminer. Fragrant, spicy and fresh.This is a fun, youthful wine that is drinking well now but could possibly benefit from a little more time to develop, allowing the fruit and underlying structure to better harmonise. Wonderful aromas come swinging out of the glass, with pops of pity citrus, yellow stone fruits, white blossoms and a line of saline minerality. The palate marries ripe, juicy fruit with a savoury lines of lees and spicy white pepper; gentle p
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Erbaluce


The Champion

Erbaluce can make many styles of from sparkling, late harvest & passito wines.

Antoniolo’s is a wonderfully fresh and crunchy dry white style. The 2020 has settled, resolving beautifully over the last 6 months and is in a wonderful place.

Perfect summer drinking.

Antoniolo Erbaluce d’Caluso DOC 2022

Erbaluce | Italy, Alto Piemonte

If you've never tried Erbaluce before this is a bloody good place to start!Like Timorasso & Nascetta this is a varietal to watch!Tasting the 2020 it was clear that like Cogno's Nascetta, Antoniolo's Erbaluce benefits from a hear in bottle to settle.Notes on the 20202nd Taste Oct 2022 - Very Good, super racy zippy acid coming together nicely resolved filled out. Looks good fun crisp. Perfect summer drinking. Elevage is there. Spice, the overt traminer, savvy b herbaceous t
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Filters & Sorting

Terre Nere Santo Spirito Etna Rosso D.O.C. 2018
Right next to Guardiola
Sophistication, perfectly ripe yet not over ripe fruit. Very much in the mould of the Guardiola and Rampante Contrada! A tight, linear red, showing cherry, watermelon and orange-peel aromas with hints of violets. It’s medium-bodied with a solid center palate and a racy finish. Drink or hold.Suckling
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Domenico Clerico Barolo 2017

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

A massive surprise, the oak is no longer the dominant feature of the Clerico wines. Hoo fucken’ ray! We have balance! I can see fruit, I can see the Commune and I can happily swallow the beverage and want to go back for another sniff. I couldn’t even say that about the 2016’s. So what’s going on? Domenico did so much to help revitalise Barolo, it would however be fair to say that after the early revolution, evolution was very slow. The wines often dominated by overt oak and tough tannins
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The latest Contrada from Terre Nere! No reviews available. I had a chance to suck on a 2017, a tasty beverage, clear the vineyard has strong potential.
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Luigi Pira Barolo del Commune di Serralunga 2019

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

I recall being impressed by Pira's 2018 Langhe Nebbiolo a couple of years on and the Barolo 'Commune di Serralunga' is impressing too! Openning in the glass with vibrant red fruits, tea, a little earthiness, slate, licorice and more. The layered density of the fruit with zippy acid has you salivating for more. The tannins are composed and front, mid-palate dominant, that slate comes through here to. Tight at the moment with 3-5 years it should fall into place, the juicy acid marry into the wine
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Giovanni Canonica Langhe Nebbiolo 2022

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

The hot tip for the Langhe Nebbiolo give it a year or two in bottle before you crack into it. It will be tightly wound when young and take that time to reveal itself. Looking forward to trying Canonica's.
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Giacosa’s Nebbiolo d’Alba uses fruit sourced solely from the Roero area, and the wine alongside both the Arneis and Nebbiolo Valmaggiore from here have a long and storied history with Bruno Giacosa. It is no coincidence that 1974 saw the first bottling of both Arneis and Nebbiolo d’Alba from Giacosa, as they were sourced from the same growers. The same is mostly true today, and where the Arneis is grown in the predominantly North-facing slopes of the vineyards in Roero, the Nebbiolo comes
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2022 NOTE: The only white ‘Grand Cru’ that Marco makes. Unlike Terre Nere's Etna Bianco DOC, which is made up of a blend of 5 white grapes, the “Vigne Niche” selection is only Carricante.Complete. Seamless, fine, delicious, flowing, complex. beautifully developed fruit with such finely textured, refreshing acidity. A great way to finish a divine set of white contrade from Marco.With a bouquet like chiseling through sheer limestone with all of the smoky and flinty nuances th
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Le Baroncole is made from 97% Sangiovese and 3% Canaiolo grapes. The initial stages of its production are the same as Chianti Classico but it is then aged in barriques for between 16 to 20 months, bottled unfiltered and held for a further six months prior to release.Here's a beautiful bottle from San Giusto a Rentennano that outperforms dozens of wines from the appellation that are priced two or three times higher than this. The organic 2021 Chianti Classico Riserva Le Baròncole is incr
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I first had the junior wine of this back in 1994 while studying winemaking in Adelaide. Over the decades it has become more refined. A great expression of Barbera. Those in the know will tell you that good vineyards planted to Barbera in Asti will beat the bounty of average sites that have been planted to the variety in Alba."The 2021 Barbera d'Asti La Crena is exceptional. Bright, red-toned fruit, chalk, mint, white pepper and rose petal are all beautifully delineated. In recent times V
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Luigi Pira Barolo ‘Margheria’ 2017

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

All south-facing and sitting at 340 metres, vinification is the same as the Barolo ‘Serralunga’. Intense and complex nose with notes of fruit and flowers and hints of leather and fresh hay, while on the palate it’s perfectly knit and very distinctive, red fruited in style with ironstone, choc-cherry, roses and some of the darker notes of cola and porcini, along with textural red plum-skin, grippy, black-tea tannins that underpin, but it’s still generous and very approachable now.
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The soil here is easily recognizable as it is by far the rockiest of all the Crus . The ground is covered by small light black volcanic pumice rocks and is some of the oldest and 'purest ' as well as poorest soils on Etna. This is very rare and only appears in two of all the Cru's .. Calderara Sottana and partially San Lorenzo."Really enticing nose with rich and ripe berries, tinged with notes of bright spice, truffley mushrooms and fresh flowers. Hint of orangey freshness, too. Medium-bodi
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This is delicious, rounder generosity that San Lorenzo offers is there yet again there is a delicacy and harmony. Very together, lovely fine acid and depth of tannin here. Still in the red fruited spectrum there is an excellent presence about this.12 ha between 700 and 800m altitude, some 100-year old bush-vines, some new plantings which have been self-propagated from the old ones . The soil is a younger layer of volcanic rock approximately 2,500 years old on Giuseppe's area . San Lo
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