Location

Italy

Ahhh … Italy! Home of renaissance literature, philosophy, science and some of the most heart warming food in the world. From North to South it would be a fair guess to say the only thing outnumbering churches and Vespa’s are the vast areas of vineyards.

One thing is certain, you’ll never run short of choice!

First Records of Wine Production – Go back millennia!

Founding Figures – The Greek colonisation marked a shift from vine grown in the wild to planned viticulture around 800 BC the Romans dramatically expanded production around 200 BC. The Italians never looked back!

Area Planted – Around 700,000 hectares making around 19% of the world’s wine!

Number of Wineries – Soave alone is made by 3,500 producers. That’s around the same number of wineries as in all of Australia! From gargistes to industrial scale conglomerates every Italian has a winemaker in the family.

Established Regions – Every region in Italy produces wine! The most prestigious region Piedmont is home to the stunning Nebbiolos of Barolo & Barbaresco. The Chianti and Brunello of Tuscany following hot on Piedmont’s heals. These are just a drop in the ocean!

In typical Italian style the classification systems of each region vary and are often skewed by influential persons with much to gain over the quality of the industry. As always we need to rely on our taste buds as the ultimate decider of quality!

Most Common VarietiesIn his book ‘Native Wine Grapes of Italy’ Ian D’Agata documents around 500 Italian grape varieties, by no means the complete set! Around 350 of these have been granted authorized status. There’s plenty to try! We’ve seen a push to save some of the notable, rare varietals like the white Nascetta and Arneis from Piedmont. 

Whilst we have seen an ingress of French Varietals, the most notable being the Cabernet Varietals + Syrah used to make the Super Tuscans, the Italians have, by and large stayed true to their roots.

White – Whites of note: Arneis (Piedmont), Cataratto (Sicily), Fiano (southwest coast), Friulano (Friuli), Gargenaga (Veneto – the Soave grape), Greco di Tufo (southwest coast), Malvasia Bianca (throughout Italy), Moscato Blanc (Piedmont), Pecorino (Abruzzo), Pinot Grigo (Why?), Ribolla Gialla (Friulli), Trebbiano (Abruzzo), Verdicchio (Marche) and Vermentino (Sardinia, Tuscany and Liguria).

Red – Aglianico (Campania), Barbera (Piedmont), Corvina blended with Rondinella to make Amarone, Dolcetto (Piedmont), Malvasia Nera (Puglia), Montepuliciano (Tuscany), Nebbiolo (Piedmont), Negaromaro (Puglia), Nero d’Avola (Sicily), Primitivo (Puglia), Sagrantino (Umbria) and Sangiovese (Tuscany).

Up and Coming Regions – Beyond Barolo and Barbaresco, around the world we have seen Amarone, Chianti, Soave, Prosecco, Verdicchio and the wines of Puglia gain strong recognition. In recent times the increasing cost of Barolo in particular has seen exploration of Nebbiolo from Alto Piedmonte and Valtellina. At the opposite end of the country, in part due to the investment of heavy hitters like ‘Barolo Boy’ Marco di Grazie (Terre Nere) and Andrea Franchetti (Passopisciaro) the Nerello Mascelese (red) and Carricante (white) wines of Etna, Sicily have become world recognised. Nerello Mascelese being described as some as the Barolo of the South or a cross between Nebbiolo and Pinot. I prefer to call it delicious!


A Treasure Hunt for the Lost Whites of Italy!


Timorasso ~ Nascetta ~ Erbaluce

3 Italian Whites Saved from Extinction!

Of the thousands of grape varieties that exist, and even more clones of each variety, few make it into our glass.

Many have been lost. Economic reality making them not viable.

Advances in viticulture, changes in climate and the passion of a few individuals have saved a few!

For that we are thankful!


Timorasso


The Saviours

Walter & Claudio along with their shared cellarmaster ‘Pigi’ are both the saviours & masters of Timorasso! The hold some of the oldest plantings making wine of great complexity, texture. Composed & full of personality.

Walter describes his Derthona as a “Modern Antique”.

Monlia Colli Tortonesi Timorasso 2021

Timorasso | Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi

Released 6 months later than the 2020 and it shows immediately. The extra time offers up a beautifully resolved wine. There’s something about the texture, aroma and flavour profile of good Italian white. That silvery line of bitterness that graces the finish. Out to play, seamless, the texture is refined with an excellent phenolic play married to fine acid. When Pietro visited Wine Deoced HQ we talked of the gentle development large oak casks offer whilst retaining freshness in a wine. This is
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NOTE on the 2022: An excellent follow up to the 2021. A slightly more generous iteration. All of the elements once again at play. Texture, clever use of oxidative handling to build intrigue whilst maintaining a core of vibrant fruit and mineral acidity. Citrus zest and oils with pears and a little candied ginger. White flowers dance over the top with a little savoury hit. Flowing and luscious, chalky, savoury, spiced, sapidity in a cleansing way. Plenty of intrigue and interest here. An exceptio
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Vietti Derthona Timorasso Colli Tortonesi 2020

Timorasso | Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi

The latest addition to the Vietti portfolio sees a white from the eastern most border of the Piedmont region. A perfect fit for Vietti with regard to their history of working with varietals of merit that for one reason or another have diminished over time.Timorasso makes beautiful wine the Massa is a cracker. I can't wait to try Vietti's version. With a wonderful array of flavours, textures, and, wonderful acidity the variety is loaded with personality & intrigue.For the 2019: Th
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Vigneti Massa Timorasso 'Derthona' 2022
Delicious!

Vigneti Massa Timorasso ‘Derthona’ 2022

Timorasso | Italy, Colli Tortonesi

From near extinction the Massa family have saved Timorasso, for that I am truly thankful! Massa's Derthona is the perfect introduction to the serious end of the spectrum of Timorasso.The note is a dead ringer for the 2021 although there is perhaps an edge more energy, depth and length in the 2022.Excellent build in depth and length with excellent oxidative line that sits perfectly with fine acid and insane lemon oil and those mega lemons you could eat straight + apricot kernel.. Great de
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Explore all of our Timorasso!


Nascetta


The Saviour

Elvio Cogno with his plantings in Novello, Barolo is turning out intoxicating wines from Nascetta. As he says they need a year or 2 in bottle to reveal their full potential. Grab a 2019 to drink now and 2020 next summer!

Nascetta - Italy's answer to Gewurztraminer. Fragrant, spicy and fresh.This is a fun, youthful wine that is drinking well now but could possibly benefit from a little more time to develop, allowing the fruit and underlying structure to better harmonise. Wonderful aromas come swinging out of the glass, with pops of pity citrus, yellow stone fruits, white blossoms and a line of saline minerality. The palate marries ripe, juicy fruit with a savoury lines of lees and spicy white pepper; gentle p
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Erbaluce


The Champion

Erbaluce can make many styles of from sparkling, late harvest & passito wines.

Antoniolo’s is a wonderfully fresh and crunchy dry white style. The 2020 has settled, resolving beautifully over the last 6 months and is in a wonderful place.

Perfect summer drinking.

Antoniolo Erbaluce d’Caluso DOC 2022

Erbaluce | Italy, Alto Piemonte

If you've never tried Erbaluce before this is a bloody good place to start!Like Timorasso & Nascetta this is a varietal to watch!Tasting the 2020 it was clear that like Cogno's Nascetta, Antoniolo's Erbaluce benefits from a hear in bottle to settle.Notes on the 20202nd Taste Oct 2022 - Very Good, super racy zippy acid coming together nicely resolved filled out. Looks good fun crisp. Perfect summer drinking. Elevage is there. Spice, the overt traminer, savvy b herbaceous t
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Filters & Sorting

NOTE FOR THE 2022: Wonderfully floral, the 2022 Bianco Secco entices with a spicy blend of pine resin and ground ginger, complicating hints of nectarine and dusty florals. This is energetic in style, with a solid core of minerality contrasting a mix of tropical citrus and white pit-fruits. Zesty acidity maintains a lovely freshness as the 2022 finishes crisp and clean, with a sapid, lemony concentration that calls the taster back to the glass. The Bianco Secco is a blend of Garganega, Trebbiano,
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They understand the rule book so have thrown it away only to be used when they know they need to. I guess that's what 150 years of making wine can give you! The 2016 of this was a cracker. True to the vintage & site with bold yet refined structure. The 2019 is again a cracker and true to vintage. This time all grace and elegance from what is proving a classic year.Beautifully weighted, the body of this slightly warmer vineyard with the clarity and sophistication of 2019 Barbaresco. Rich
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Giovanni Sordo Barolo CORK 2016
Feel the La Morra!

Giovanni Sordo Barolo CORK 2016

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

From the Perfume of Barbaresco, the Barolo shifts to a savoury, earthy profile, the richness of La Morra fruit shining through! 80% La Morra. Immediate generosity has it open for action but so much more. A little chocolate and little coffee, savoury bits on dark fruit. There is a lot going on here with layers of flavours and tannins. The depth and length are impressive. Wonderful harmony and presence.Full, dense and obviously really bright. Rose, maraschino, fleshy red plum/red prune. More
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Giovanni Rosso Barolo del Comune di Serralunga 2017

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

2017 completes an excellent trilogy of Rosso's Commune wine! Giovanni Rosso’s fabulously good value Barolo Comune di Serralunga d’Alba is made from fruit grown across 8 different estate vineyards in Serralunga d’Alba. The fruit is sourced from Crus such as Cerretta and Serra, also released as single vineyard bottlings, as well as Meriame, Sorano, Costabella, and BaudanaThose who have tried even the Langhe Neb will have quickly seen a wine from a maker with an understanding of harmony,
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Claudio Mariotto ‘Pitasso’ Derthona Timorasso 2018

Timorasso | Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi

It was fascinating drinking a range of Claudio's Timorassos with Simone his right hand man in Oct 2024. We were fortunate to be able to look at some 2018's alongside the 2021's and 2022's. The evolution of Timorasso with those few years really makes for a very complete experience as wines that are already harmonious on release find absolute comfort in their own skins and build in complexity. It's well worth holding them for 5 years+ particularly at this level of quality.The 2018 Pitasso was
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Giovanni Rosso Barolo del Comune di Serralunga 2019

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

Excellent. flowing, beautifully weighted with a density of elegant fruit. Super refined long tannin. So seamless, harmonious and delicious. Complex with a tea line combined with layered tannins. Gorgeous fruit, superb drinking.Fabulously good value. Made from fruit grown across 8 different estate vineyards in Serralunga d’Alba. The fruit is sourced from Crus such as Cerretta and Serra, Meriame, Sorano, Costabella, and Baudana.Paul Kaan, WINE DECODED Aug 2023Cask sample of the
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Le Baroncole is made from 97% Sangiovese and 3% Canaiolo grapes. The initial stages of its production are the same as Chianti Classico but it is then aged in barriques for between 16 to 20 months, bottled unfiltered and held for a further six months prior to release.The 2022 Chianti Classico Riserva Le Baroncole is packed with dark red cherry/plum fruit, new leather, cedar, blood orange and spice. Dense and layered, with superb depth, the 2022 is endowed with real structure. The oak, so
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The 1st Commune di Verduno Barolo from Fratelli Alessandria! This is a hero statement for the 2017 vintage! Well played my friends, well played! The first 100% Verduno Barolo from Fratelli Alessandria and it’s a beauty. Take the Prinsiot, already excellent, add another couple of layers of development, greater depth of tannin and you’re through the first couple of chapters of this book. A lot going on here. Complex, earthy truffle pops, dark fruit, long linear palate with exceptional mid-pala
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Well played my friends, well played! The 3rd 100% Verduno Barolo from Fratelli Alessandria and it’s a beauty. Take the Prinsiot, already excellent, add another couple of layers of development, greater depth of tannin & you’re through the first couple of chapters of this book. An entrancing perfume ... the roses, baking spices, savoury lines, over a foundation of fruit. Tannins flow long & fine, beautifully weighted against the complex, layered flavour profile & energising gracefu
Original price was: $137.Current price is: $123.
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Giovanni Rosso Barolo del Comune di Serralunga 2021

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

Excellent. flowing, beautifully weighted with a density of elegant fruit. Super refined long tannin. So seamless, harmonious and delicious. Complex with a tea line combined with layered tannins. Gorgeous fruit, superb drinking.Fabulously good value. Made from fruit grown across 8 different estate vineyards in Serralunga d’Alba. The fruit is sourced from Crus such as Cerretta and Serra, Meriame, Sorano, Costabella, and Baudana.The 2021 Barolo del Comune di Serralunga d'Alba is a bl
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The latest Contrada from Terre Nere! Complex aromas of ripe berries with toffee, cedar and some floral undertones. Hot ash as well. The palate is full-bodied, but tight and linear with a chewy palate and lots of dried-peach and orange-peel undertones to the ripe fruit, but always linear and focused. Try after 2022.Suckling
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The Feudo di Mezzo from Terre Nere has more immediate generosity. Showing more of itself earlier than higher vineyards of Santo Spirito and Guardiola The purity of fruit and brightness is very impressive with blackberry, cherry and walnut undertones. It’s full, very tight and complete with really fine, polished tannins and a beautiful, long finish. Really balanced. Drink or hold.SucklingFeudo di Mezzo is a larger Contrada, sub-plots within it are important to recognise. One day I'll ge
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