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Italy

Ahhh … Italy! Home of renaissance literature, philosophy, science and some of the most heart warming food in the world. From North to South it would be a fair guess to say the only thing outnumbering churches and Vespa’s are the vast areas of vineyards.

One thing is certain, you’ll never run short of choice!

First Records of Wine Production – Go back millennia!

Founding Figures – The Greek colonisation marked a shift from vine grown in the wild to planned viticulture around 800 BC the Romans dramatically expanded production around 200 BC. The Italians never looked back!

Area Planted – Around 700,000 hectares making around 19% of the world’s wine!

Number of Wineries – Soave alone is made by 3,500 producers. That’s around the same number of wineries as in all of Australia! From gargistes to industrial scale conglomerates every Italian has a winemaker in the family.

Established Regions – Every region in Italy produces wine! The most prestigious region Piedmont is home to the stunning Nebbiolos of Barolo & Barbaresco. The Chianti and Brunello of Tuscany following hot on Piedmont’s heals. These are just a drop in the ocean!

In typical Italian style the classification systems of each region vary and are often skewed by influential persons with much to gain over the quality of the industry. As always we need to rely on our taste buds as the ultimate decider of quality!

Most Common VarietiesIn his book ‘Native Wine Grapes of Italy’ Ian D’Agata documents around 500 Italian grape varieties, by no means the complete set! Around 350 of these have been granted authorized status. There’s plenty to try! We’ve seen a push to save some of the notable, rare varietals like the white Nascetta and Arneis from Piedmont. 

Whilst we have seen an ingress of French Varietals, the most notable being the Cabernet Varietals + Syrah used to make the Super Tuscans, the Italians have, by and large stayed true to their roots.

White – Whites of note: Arneis (Piedmont), Cataratto (Sicily), Fiano (southwest coast), Friulano (Friuli), Gargenaga (Veneto – the Soave grape), Greco di Tufo (southwest coast), Malvasia Bianca (throughout Italy), Moscato Blanc (Piedmont), Pecorino (Abruzzo), Pinot Grigo (Why?), Ribolla Gialla (Friulli), Trebbiano (Abruzzo), Verdicchio (Marche) and Vermentino (Sardinia, Tuscany and Liguria).

Red – Aglianico (Campania), Barbera (Piedmont), Corvina blended with Rondinella to make Amarone, Dolcetto (Piedmont), Malvasia Nera (Puglia), Montepuliciano (Tuscany), Nebbiolo (Piedmont), Negaromaro (Puglia), Nero d’Avola (Sicily), Primitivo (Puglia), Sagrantino (Umbria) and Sangiovese (Tuscany).

Up and Coming Regions – Beyond Barolo and Barbaresco, around the world we have seen Amarone, Chianti, Soave, Prosecco, Verdicchio and the wines of Puglia gain strong recognition. In recent times the increasing cost of Barolo in particular has seen exploration of Nebbiolo from Alto Piedmonte and Valtellina. At the opposite end of the country, in part due to the investment of heavy hitters like ‘Barolo Boy’ Marco di Grazie (Terre Nere) and Andrea Franchetti (Passopisciaro) the Nerello Mascelese (red) and Carricante (white) wines of Etna, Sicily have become world recognised. Nerello Mascelese being described as some as the Barolo of the South or a cross between Nebbiolo and Pinot. I prefer to call it delicious!


A Treasure Hunt for the Lost Whites of Italy!


Timorasso ~ Nascetta ~ Erbaluce

3 Italian Whites Saved from Extinction!

Of the thousands of grape varieties that exist, and even more clones of each variety, few make it into our glass.

Many have been lost. Economic reality making them not viable.

Advances in viticulture, changes in climate and the passion of a few individuals have saved a few!

For that we are thankful!


Timorasso


The Saviours

Walter & Claudio along with their shared cellarmaster ‘Pigi’ are both the saviours & masters of Timorasso! The hold some of the oldest plantings making wine of great complexity, texture. Composed & full of personality.

Walter describes his Derthona as a “Modern Antique”.

Monlia Colli Tortonesi Timorasso 2021

Timorasso | Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi

Released 6 months later than the 2020 and it shows immediately. The extra time offers up a beautifully resolved wine. There’s something about the texture, aroma and flavour profile of good Italian white. That silvery line of bitterness that graces the finish. Out to play, seamless, the texture is refined with an excellent phenolic play married to fine acid. When Pietro visited Wine Deoced HQ we talked of the gentle development large oak casks offer whilst retaining freshness in a wine. This is
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NOTE on the 2022: An excellent follow up to the 2021. A slightly more generous iteration. All of the elements once again at play. Texture, clever use of oxidative handling to build intrigue whilst maintaining a core of vibrant fruit and mineral acidity. Citrus zest and oils with pears and a little candied ginger. White flowers dance over the top with a little savoury hit. Flowing and luscious, chalky, savoury, spiced, sapidity in a cleansing way. Plenty of intrigue and interest here. An exceptio
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Vietti Derthona Timorasso Colli Tortonesi 2020

Timorasso | Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi

The latest addition to the Vietti portfolio sees a white from the eastern most border of the Piedmont region. A perfect fit for Vietti with regard to their history of working with varietals of merit that for one reason or another have diminished over time.Timorasso makes beautiful wine the Massa is a cracker. I can't wait to try Vietti's version. With a wonderful array of flavours, textures, and, wonderful acidity the variety is loaded with personality & intrigue.For the 2019: Th
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Vigneti Massa Timorasso 'Derthona' 2022
Delicious!

Vigneti Massa Timorasso ‘Derthona’ 2022

Timorasso | Italy, Colli Tortonesi

From near extinction the Massa family have saved Timorasso, for that I am truly thankful! Massa's Derthona is the perfect introduction to the serious end of the spectrum of Timorasso.The note is a dead ringer for the 2021 although there is perhaps an edge more energy, depth and length in the 2022.Excellent build in depth and length with excellent oxidative line that sits perfectly with fine acid and insane lemon oil and those mega lemons you could eat straight + apricot kernel.. Great de
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Explore all of our Timorasso!


Nascetta


The Saviour

Elvio Cogno with his plantings in Novello, Barolo is turning out intoxicating wines from Nascetta. As he says they need a year or 2 in bottle to reveal their full potential. Grab a 2019 to drink now and 2020 next summer!

Nascetta - Italy's answer to Gewurztraminer. Fragrant, spicy and fresh.This is a fun, youthful wine that is drinking well now but could possibly benefit from a little more time to develop, allowing the fruit and underlying structure to better harmonise. Wonderful aromas come swinging out of the glass, with pops of pity citrus, yellow stone fruits, white blossoms and a line of saline minerality. The palate marries ripe, juicy fruit with a savoury lines of lees and spicy white pepper; gentle p
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Erbaluce


The Champion

Erbaluce can make many styles of from sparkling, late harvest & passito wines.

Antoniolo’s is a wonderfully fresh and crunchy dry white style. The 2020 has settled, resolving beautifully over the last 6 months and is in a wonderful place.

Perfect summer drinking.

Antoniolo Erbaluce d’Caluso DOC 2022

Erbaluce | Italy, Alto Piemonte

If you've never tried Erbaluce before this is a bloody good place to start!Like Timorasso & Nascetta this is a varietal to watch!Tasting the 2020 it was clear that like Cogno's Nascetta, Antoniolo's Erbaluce benefits from a hear in bottle to settle.Notes on the 20202nd Taste Oct 2022 - Very Good, super racy zippy acid coming together nicely resolved filled out. Looks good fun crisp. Perfect summer drinking. Elevage is there. Spice, the overt traminer, savvy b herbaceous t
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Filters & Sorting

L’Aietta Rosso di Montalcino 2022

Sangiovese | Tuscany, Italy

About L’Aietta – The Artist L’Aietta started in 2001, when I was still in high school. I discovered that the place where I had been going on Sundays with my family and friends to have picnics and barbecues,that had not only olive trees and a few vines, but these vines (more or less 1000 square […]
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Giuseppe Cortese Barbaresco 2020

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barbaresco

Such a comforting wine, easy, flowing, grape first with salty blood and blood orange around vibrant fruit. Well made and composed. Fruit and tannins weighted nicely. Approachable now but will undoubtedly offer much more with a few years in bottle. For the coin this sits in a great spot!Paul Kaan, Wine Decoded Sept 2024The Giuseppe Cortese 2020 Barbaresco delivers aromas of crushed rose, redcurrant, licorice and camphor ash. The mouthfeel is lean and polished, and this classic Ba
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Fontodi Chiant Classico 2019

Sangiovese | Tuscany, Chianti Classico

The thirst-quenching nature combined with great intensity and personality draws you in!  More elegance than 18 looking good. Refined fun. With lovely red fruits, earthy, savoury with a little herbal pop. Pretty bloody serious Sangiovese for the coin. A very clever layer of oak in this. Complex with fine tannins with a slight build to mid-palate that’s going to work beautifully with loads of food. This should be very interesting with 5-10 years of age on it.
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La Ca’ Növa Barbaresco 2022

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barbaresco

The 2022 Barbaresco is superb. Deep and layered, the 2022 offers an explosion of red-toned Nebbiolo fruit intermingled with floral and spice overtones. This succulent, generous Barbaresco will be easy to drink and enjoy on release. Like all the 2022s here, the Barbaresco is open-knit and also impeccably balanced. Vineyard sites are Ovello, Cole and Loreto.Antonio Galloni, Vinous 91 Points
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One of Italy’s great value red wines, the Barbera d’Alba ‘Casa Vinicola’ is an expression of Barbera fruit sourced from around the Barolo and Barbaresco sub-regions. This is one of the longest standing labels in Giacosa’s stable having first been produced in 1969, just after the first Barolos and Barbarescos of the mid-60’s. These days it is a refreshing red that shows the ripe red berries of great Barberas from Alba, alongside notably sinewy tannins and a good mineral core.
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Graci 'Arcurìa' Nerello Mascelese 2019
Grace & Power

Graci ‘Arcurìa’ Nerello Mascelese 2019

Nerello Mascalese | Etna, Sicily

There's an incredible diversity of styles across Etna, Arcurìa, is divine, delicate, perfumed, resting firmly in the feminine camp! The Arcurìa is beautifully fine and long, with a sense of grace and delicious perfume that entrances. Essential to give it a decanter and plenty of time for it to show you its full potential. Boy, when it does you go to a happy place.Graci, are, killing it! These are refined wines, beautifully balanced, elegant, with amazing textures, and, entrancing perfumes.
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La Ca’ Növa Barbaresco 2019

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barbaresco

Excellent bright fruit, fine dusty tannins, long with a beautiful flavour profile, poised and delicious. Thirst-quenching drink. Red fruits, with a little, orange citrus, slight savoury note. Great balance here. A joy. Tasted 30 May 2022.La Ca' Növa 2019 Barbaresco will tempt readers with its effusive aromatics and compelling Nebbiolo fruit, but a few years in bottle are advisable to help the tannins soft. Medium in body and wonderfully translucent, the 2019 is such a great example of w
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Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco 2019

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barbaresco

Once again proving PdB's Barbaresco Normale is a great benchmark! Hard to go wrong here!Once again proving PdB's Barbaresco Normale is a great benchmark!Reports of the 2019 being a classic Barbaresco of balance and harmony are on the money!Beautifully perfumed, fully of energy with fine dusty tannins matched to a line of acid and fresh red fruits. Layered and complex, at this youthful stage it takes time in the glass to reveal itself.Such a pretty wine, yet clearly of subst
Original price was: $120.Current price is: $103.
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I have an ever-growing soft spot for the whites of Mount Etna, they have seen great leaps in quality over recent times.The fruit for Pietradolce’s Arhcineri Etna Bianco is sourced from pre-phylloxera vines planted at 850-900 metres on the eastern slopes near Milo, the undisputed white growing sub-region of Mount Etna. You’ll find the whites from Milo to be generally a cooler reflection of Carricante with slightly lower alcohol, higher acid and minerality.The precision and purity her
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My two favourite Neb's from Sandrone came from the polar opposites of the price spectrum. The Valmaggiore at under a $100 is around 1/10th the price of the Vite Talin, Sandrone's super cuvée.Sandrone’s Valmaggiore is a different expression of Nebbiolo to those from the nearby Barolo and Barbaresco. Superb. Elegance and restraint with intensity and depth. Delicate super fine tannins gently dust the palate with a gentle grip. Sour red cherry perfectly supported by a beautifully weighted co
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The first time we've had Sandro Fay's wine from the Sassella sub-zone of Valtellina and it's a ripper. A step up from the Valgella appropriately reflected in the price difference. Longer and with more mid-palate depth it shows excellent flow and shape. The pure, fine acid and long sophisticated tannins make for an equally refreshing drop. Darker sour cherry fruit laced with slate, spice and lick of that alpine thing doing on. Great transparency. Loads of joy to be had with this pleasure festa!
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Cantine Garrone Prünent 2018

Red Blend | Valli Ossolane, Alto Piemonte

Neb from the FAR NORTH ... Stylistically think the more ethereal communes of Valtellina! Brooding and darker than the Ca d’Mate with a build in structure. A little Austere, yet you can see there is much to come with time in bottle. Openning in the glass to reveal woody herbs, fresh sour cherry and complexities beyond.Such a different balance point to Barolo & Barbaresco. 13.5% sees vibrant fruit with layered dusty ripe tannins, whereas Barolo and Barbaresco need 14.5% for the same. En
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