Location

France

France has gone on a roller coaster ride. A booming industry was decimated by mildew and phylloxera in the second half of the 19th century, then two World Wars in the 20th century. Thirst won in the end, and, France is now the World’s #2 wine producer by volume.

Without doubt the two greatest drivers of the French wine industry have been the concept of Terroir and the establishment of the Appellation d’origine contrôlée.

Combined these have defined a philosophical approach to growing and making wine and enforced strict controls of grape varieties that can be planted in each region and winemaking practices that can be employed.

Frances has come through with flying colours, successive generations have been better trained, spent time in the New World exposing them to different techniques for growing vines and making wine, and, have been able to push the boundaries to achieve excellence.

First Records of Wine Production – Go back millennia to the 6th century BC. The Greeks kicked things off with the Romans ramping things up. Those Romans got around and took their vines and wines with them! Over time the wealth of the Monastries took over much of the production. Nobility took their turn until the guillotine fell!

Founding Figures – In ‘recent times’, technical advancement in the industry were driven by Minister of the Interior, Jean-Antoine Chaptal following the French revolution, work done by Louis Pasteur in the 19th century, and, the Emperor Napoleon III commissioning of the 1855 classification of Bordeaux.

Area Planted – with around 630,000 hectares of vines France produces 17% of the World’s wine

Established Regions – When we think French wine, the regions that immediately come to mind are Champagne with its fizz, Bordeaux’s Cabernet blends and Sauternes, Burgundy’s Pinot and Chardonnay, the Rhône Valley’s Shiraz, Grenache, Marsanne & Roussane, and, Alsatian Riesling.

Most Common Varieties

White – From greatest area planted down the top red varieties are Ugni Blanc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Melon de Bourgogne, Sémillon, Chennin Blanc, Colombard, Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains, Grenache Blanc, Viognier, and, Riesling.

Red – The list doesn’t surprise the order they come in does from greatest area planted down the top red varieties are Merlot, Grenache, Syrah, Carignan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Gamay, Pinot Noir, Cinsaut, Pinot Meunier and Mourvèdre.

Up and Coming Regions – In recent times we’ve seen the Rosé of Provence, the hidden gems from the Languedoc, Jura and Loire Valley increasing in popularity.

Filters & Sorting

Here too there is moderate oak influence surrounding the aromas of poached pear, white flowers, crushed fennel and a lovely spicy quality. There is outstanding volume and density to the markedly powerful mineral-driven flavors that deliver excellent persistence on the youthfully austere finale. Pougets generally gives a relatively elegant CC but this version is muscular and while not exactly robust, it isn’t especially refined. Even so, I very much like this and in particular for its evident d
$762
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Clos de Tart 1er Cru ‘La Forge de Tart’ 2019

Pinot Noir | Morey-Saint-Denis, France

“This comes from the section known as La Forge, plus a young vine planting from 2011, and “Ballonge 2” where the plant selection could be better – it will be top-grafted shortly. One third whole bunch in the Ballonge component makes about 15% in all. This is a glowing purple colour, without the black. A light reduction on the nose which later shows as toasty barrel. Very complete, sensual, with good unforced acidity, more red fruit than black. Still a certain masculinity. Surprising leng
$780
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The 2020 Echézeaux En Orveaux Grand Cru bursts with aromas of sweet red berries, rose petals, peonies, orange rind, plums and cinnamon. Medium to full-bodied, broad and enveloping, with powdery tannins, lively acids and a long, precise finish, this, too, is very promising.William Kelley, The Wine Advocate 92-94 BH 91-94
$780
$760ea in any 3+
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The 2002 Clos de Vougeot le Grand Maupertui Grand Cru, which comes from vines born in 1904, is endowed with darker fruit than the Grands-Echézeaux. Well-defined, maybe a little opulent in style, yet still controlled. The palate is well-endowed with dark berry fruit, more black than red, pain d'épice and white pepper. There’s plenty of substance and grip towards the finish. But it is always elegant and deserves 10-12 years in bottle. Excellent. Drink: 2030-2065Neal Martin, Vinous 95-97 P
$785
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"Here too there is a whiff of the exotic as well as a touch of phenolic character (think olive oil nuances) on the poached pear and apple compote aromas. There is excellent richness to the bigger-bodied flavors that are caressing yet markedly powerful finish that offers very fine depth and persistence. This isn't elegant, indeed it's borderline rustic, yet it nonetheless offers much to like in a firmly structured package."Allen Meadows, Burghound
$790
$780ea in any 3+
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Joseph Faiveley Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru 2022

Pinot Noir | Gevrey-Chambertin, Burgundy

The name describes the wine! Charmes is truly Charming!
This is relatively firmly reduced so if you’re tempted to try a bottle young, be sure to give it some air first. Otherwise, there is good power and underlying tension to the medium weight plus flavors that retain solid delineation on the impressively long finish. This will need to add depth with time in bottle, but the material is present for that to occur. 2028+ (from 3 separate parcels that aggregate only .2 ha)Allen Meadows, Burghound
$820
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Château Léoville-Las-Cases 2016

Bordeaux Blend | Saint-Julien, France

One of the high points of this great vintage, the 2016 Léoville Las Cases is a brilliant wine that unwinds in the glass with aromas of dark berries, pencil shavings, cigar wrapper, loamy soil and violets. Medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, it’s concentrated and complete, with beautifully refined tannins, vibrant acids and a long, mineral finish. Even in this series of great wines, it stands out for its cool classicism and unerring precision. Still an infant, while the 2016 is sufficient
Readers will know that I tend to prefer Bouley’s Fremiers to his Rugiens, but in this vintage, it appears to be the brilliant 2020 Pommard 1er Cru Les Rugiens Hauts that’s the king of the cellar. Unwinding in the glass with scents of blueberries and raspberries mingled with exotic spices, rose petals, bergamot and smoked tea, it’s full-bodied, satiny and seamless, with a deep, layered core, racy acids and a pure, seamless profile. This magical bottle recalls the depth and concentrat
$840
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A more discreet if still easily perceptible dollop of wood can be found on the more deeply pitched aromas of poached plum, forest floor and a more subtle hint of the sauvage. The supersleek, intense and beautifully textured medium weight flavors exude evident minerality on the powerful, youthfully austere and beautifully balanced finale that displays excellent length. One to look for. Drink: 2034+Allen Meadows, Burghound 92-95 Points Sweet spot OutstandingThe 2022 Gevrey-Chambertin 1

Domaine Faiveley Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru 2022

Chardonnay | France, Aloxe-Corton

A more restrained nose only grudgingly displays its aromas of Granny Smith apples, anise, mineral reduction and more discreet floral elements. The racy and tautly muscular largebodied flavors possess a really lovely texture thanks to the abundant sappy dry extract that also serves to buffer the firm acidity shaping the beautifully long, stony and impeccably well-balanced finale. This also needs to develop better depth but given how tightly wound it is, and given the evident quality of the underl
Combining richness with precision, an incredible texture & complexity make it almost impossible to describe this wine! The hallmarks of greatness. This wine truly takes me to a happy place.Tasted next to Krug NV, a very good bottle at that, the Egly was inspirational. The élévage of this wine is simply perfect. Taking the time to mature base wines before blending and bottling makes an incredible difference to fruit of this quality, adding 70 months on lees has brought this wine together b
$880
$860ea in any 3+
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