Location

France

France has gone on a roller coaster ride. A booming industry was decimated by mildew and phylloxera in the second half of the 19th century, then two World Wars in the 20th century. Thirst won in the end, and, France is now the World’s #2 wine producer by volume.

Without doubt the two greatest drivers of the French wine industry have been the concept of Terroir and the establishment of the Appellation d’origine contrôlée.

Combined these have defined a philosophical approach to growing and making wine and enforced strict controls of grape varieties that can be planted in each region and winemaking practices that can be employed.

Frances has come through with flying colours, successive generations have been better trained, spent time in the New World exposing them to different techniques for growing vines and making wine, and, have been able to push the boundaries to achieve excellence.

First Records of Wine Production – Go back millennia to the 6th century BC. The Greeks kicked things off with the Romans ramping things up. Those Romans got around and took their vines and wines with them! Over time the wealth of the Monastries took over much of the production. Nobility took their turn until the guillotine fell!

Founding Figures – In ‘recent times’, technical advancement in the industry were driven by Minister of the Interior, Jean-Antoine Chaptal following the French revolution, work done by Louis Pasteur in the 19th century, and, the Emperor Napoleon III commissioning of the 1855 classification of Bordeaux.

Area Planted – with around 630,000 hectares of vines France produces 17% of the World’s wine

Established Regions – When we think French wine, the regions that immediately come to mind are Champagne with its fizz, Bordeaux’s Cabernet blends and Sauternes, Burgundy’s Pinot and Chardonnay, the Rhône Valley’s Shiraz, Grenache, Marsanne & Roussane, and, Alsatian Riesling.

Most Common Varieties

White – From greatest area planted down the top red varieties are Ugni Blanc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Melon de Bourgogne, Sémillon, Chennin Blanc, Colombard, Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains, Grenache Blanc, Viognier, and, Riesling.

Red – The list doesn’t surprise the order they come in does from greatest area planted down the top red varieties are Merlot, Grenache, Syrah, Carignan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Gamay, Pinot Noir, Cinsaut, Pinot Meunier and Mourvèdre.

Up and Coming Regions – In recent times we’ve seen the Rosé of Provence, the hidden gems from the Languedoc, Jura and Loire Valley increasing in popularity.

Showing of wines

Sauvignon Blanc from Pouilly-Fumé, Centre Loire

Domaine Didier Dagueneau Buisson Renard Blanc VDF 2022

“I’m a bit of a fan of the Buisson Renard. At the bottom of the hill below the winery in the village of Saint-Andelain, there's a greater proportion of clay to flint, giving a broadness to the wine's shape that envelops the whole mouth. In 2022, you can smell the warmth of the vintage and experience its richness and yet its sense of lightness. There's an appealing chew to the wine, and on the finish, a salty residue that makes you want to continue drinking. It retains acidity, line and lengt

Vintage 2022
$420
$400ea in any 3+
$380ea in any 6+

Sauvignon Blanc from Pouilly-Fumé, Centre Loire

Domaine Didier Dagueneau Buisson Renard Blanc VDF 2023

This wine is priced above Pur Sang these days, indicating how highly the Domaine rates the vineyard and the wine. Buisson Renard is a cool mid-slope terroir on the southwest side of the Saint-Andelain hill and the soils are a mixture of clay and flint (or silex). The site was historically named Buisson Menard, as was the wine initially, but a wine writer mistakenly reviewed the wine as Buisson Renard. Renard means fox in French, and Buisson means bush, so the error gave the wine a name

Vintage 2023
$420
$400ea in any 3+
$380ea in any 6+

Sauvignon Blanc from Pouilly-Fumé, Centre Loire

Domaine Didier Dagueneau Blanc Fumé de Pouilly 2016

The first bottle of Didier's wines I devoured was a bottle of Silex in 2001 with Doc when I was working with him at Yarra Yering. We were looking to benchmark for the Dry White No.1, a Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc blend. It was included in a bracket with some exceptional white Bordeaux. Prior Didier's wine I had not been impressed by the Pouilly-Fumé I had tasted, most of it green, weedy, cats piss. Silex was a breath of fresh air.Jefford's commentary sums it up beautifully. “His wines smel

Vintage 2016
$423
$408ea in any 3+
$393ea in any 6+

Pinot Noir from Pommard, Côte du Beaune

Benjamin Leroux Pommard 1er Cru ‘Rugiens-Haut’ 2017

Ben does such a great job in the Côtes-de-Beaune. There's a certain harmony that comes across in the reds he makes here. It makes sense given his familiarity with the region following his time at Comte-Armand. He talks of his efforts to shift the styles of the Pommards from rustic and super tannic to more perfumed and supple. He's succeeded in achieving that with the Pommards not only at Comte-Armand, but, at his own Domaine too!The 1er Cru Rugiens-Hauts is an impeccable site

Vintage 2017
$425
$410ea in any 3+
$395ea in any 6+

Pinot Noir from Pommard, Côte du Beaune

Benjamin Leroux Pommard 1er Cru ‘Rugiens-Haut’ 2018

Ben does such a great job in the Côtes-de-Beaune. There's a certain harmony that comes across in the reds he makes here. It makes sense given his familiarity with the region following his time at Comte-Armand. He talks of his efforts to shift the styles of the Pommards from rustic and super tannic to more perfumed and supple. He's succeeded in achieving that with the Pommards not only at Comte-Armand, but, at his own Domaine too!The 1er Cru Rugiens-Hauts is an impeccable site

Vintage 2018
$425
$410ea in any 3+
$395ea in any 6+

Pinot Noir from Aloxe-Corton, Côte du Beaune

Domaine Bouchard Pere et Fils Grand Cru ‘Le Corton’ 2019

An overtly floral nose reflects notes of rose petal, lavender, acacia and violet along with nuances of red and black fruit, earth and a whiff of forest floor. There is excellent intensity, size, weight and power to the attractively textured big-bodied flavors that brim with minerality on the caressing but punchy finale. This beautifully balanced effort is in the classic mold of this wine as it's very clearly built for the long haul and again, I would suggest not touching this wine for at least a

Vintage 2019
$425
$410ea in any 3+
$395ea in any 6+
Domaine Nicole Lamarche 'Echezeaux' Grand Cru 2018
🦄The Unicorns Are Here!!🦄

Pinot Noir from Vosne-Romanée, Côte-de-Nuits

Domaine Nicole Lamarche ‘Echezeaux’ Grand Cru 2018

Sometimes when your vineyard is surround that's OK especially when it's surrounded by DRC! I've had the pleasure of drinking La Grande Rue a couple of times. It's the benchmark wine of the estate that sits across a tiny laneway from LaTâche. La Grande Rue is sensual, feminine, with an incredible perfume, and silky texture. A special wine indeed.Vosne-Romanée tensd to be a bit of mixed bag of the haves and have nots. Lamarche is a have!Nicole, François' daughter has been in charge of t

Vintage 2018
$435
$420ea in any 3+
$405ea in any 6+

Pinot Noir from Volnay, Côte du Beaune

Domaine de Montille Volnay 1er Cru ‘En Champans’ 2020

"Here too moderate reduction renders the nose difficult to assess. The relatively delicate and refined middle weight flavors possess no lack of punch that carries over to the youthfully austere, complex and sneaky long finish that is quite tightly wound so patience advised." Outstanding ♥Allen Meadows, Burghound 91-94 Points

Vintage 2020
$435
$420ea in any 3+
$405ea in any 6+
Egly-Ouriet Grand Cru V.P. Base 2016 NV
84 Months on Lees

Blend from Ambonnay, Montagne de Reims

Egly-Ouriet Grand Cru V.P. Base 2016 NV

V.P. = Viellissement Prolongé = Prolonged ageing on lees! The V.P. stands for Vieillissement Prolongé (prolonged ageing), as the wine spends so long on lees, in this case 84 months. A blend of 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay, the fruit comes from Ambonnay, Bouzy and Verzenay--all great Grand Cru terroirs. Vinification and élevage is in oak casks, with the dosage being a tiny 2g/l, so seriously Extra Brut.The power of the fruit, plus the extended lees ageing grants such harmony, so much

Vintage 2014
$440
$425ea in any 3+
$410ea in any 6+

Blend from Ambonnay, Montagne de Reims

Egly-Ouriet Brut Rosé Grand Cru Base 19 NV

One of the greatest rosé wines of Champagne and a wine of haunting finesse. The blend is 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay, with 50% from the 2019 vintage and the reserve wines split between 2018 and 2017. The dosage is a negligible 1 g/L. Interestingly, this is always Egly’s most delicate wine. It’s unbelievably fine, perfumed, delicate and red-fruited; something truly special. 48 months on lees.Disgorged July 2024 

Vintage 2017
$440
$425ea in any 3+
$410ea in any 6+
Egly-Ouriet Grand Cru V.P. Base 2017 NV
84 Months on Lees

Blend from Ambonnay, Montagne de Reims

Egly-Ouriet Grand Cru V.P. Base 2017 NV

V.P. = Viellissement Prolongé = Prolonged ageing on lees! The V.P. stands for Vieillissement Prolongé (prolonged ageing), as the wine spends so long on lees, in this case 84 months. A blend of 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay, the fruit comes from Ambonnay, Bouzy and Verzenay--all great Grand Cru terroirs. Vinification and élevage is in oak casks, with the dosage being a tiny 2g/l, so seriously Extra Brut.The power of the fruit, plus the extended lees ageing grants such harmony, so much

Vintage 2015
$440
$425ea in any 3+
$410ea in any 6+

Pinot Noir from Chambolle-Musigny, Côte-de-Nuits

Domaine Ghislaine Barthod Chambolle-Musigny 1er ‘Noirots’ 2017

A more deeply pitched and somewhat less elegant nose combines notes of spiced plum, dark raspberry and touches of earth, tea and sandalwood. The succulent and beguilingly textured medium-bodied flavors brim with dry extract that helps to buffer the firm tannins that flirt with rusticity on the lingering finish that also reflects a note of bitter cherry pit.Allen Meadows, Burghound 89-92 Points For the first time—at the instigation of her son, Clément—Barthod elected to vinify a

Vintage 2017
$440
$430ea in any 3+
$420ea in any 6+

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