Location

France

France has gone on a roller coaster ride. A booming industry was decimated by mildew and phylloxera in the second half of the 19th century, then two World Wars in the 20th century. Thirst won in the end, and, France is now the World’s #2 wine producer by volume.

Without doubt the two greatest drivers of the French wine industry have been the concept of Terroir and the establishment of the Appellation d’origine contrôlée.

Combined these have defined a philosophical approach to growing and making wine and enforced strict controls of grape varieties that can be planted in each region and winemaking practices that can be employed.

Frances has come through with flying colours, successive generations have been better trained, spent time in the New World exposing them to different techniques for growing vines and making wine, and, have been able to push the boundaries to achieve excellence.

First Records of Wine Production – Go back millennia to the 6th century BC. The Greeks kicked things off with the Romans ramping things up. Those Romans got around and took their vines and wines with them! Over time the wealth of the Monastries took over much of the production. Nobility took their turn until the guillotine fell!

Founding Figures – In ‘recent times’, technical advancement in the industry were driven by Minister of the Interior, Jean-Antoine Chaptal following the French revolution, work done by Louis Pasteur in the 19th century, and, the Emperor Napoleon III commissioning of the 1855 classification of Bordeaux.

Area Planted – with around 630,000 hectares of vines France produces 17% of the World’s wine

Established Regions – When we think French wine, the regions that immediately come to mind are Champagne with its fizz, Bordeaux’s Cabernet blends and Sauternes, Burgundy’s Pinot and Chardonnay, the Rhône Valley’s Shiraz, Grenache, Marsanne & Roussane, and, Alsatian Riesling.

Most Common Varieties

White – From greatest area planted down the top red varieties are Ugni Blanc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Melon de Bourgogne, Sémillon, Chennin Blanc, Colombard, Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains, Grenache Blanc, Viognier, and, Riesling.

Red – The list doesn’t surprise the order they come in does from greatest area planted down the top red varieties are Merlot, Grenache, Syrah, Carignan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Gamay, Pinot Noir, Cinsaut, Pinot Meunier and Mourvèdre.

Up and Coming Regions – In recent times we’ve seen the Rosé of Provence, the hidden gems from the Languedoc, Jura and Loire Valley increasing in popularity.

Filters & Sorting

Chassagne rouge is moving up in the world. Growers like Olivier Lamy, Thierry Pillot and Alex and Benoît Moreau (to mention only those producers we are following closely) show the heights this often-undervalued appellation can achieve through best-practice farming and excellent winemaking. The warmer seasons, too, have been helpful, bringing more approachable tannins when the wines are young. It’s from two small parcels of 50-year-old vines below the village. The 2022 fermented with 10% bunch
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A slightly cooler if still ripe nose reflects notes of white pepper, plenty of citrus influence and discreet shellfish nuances. Here too the palate impression of the middleweight flavors is one of richness and generosity yet the supporting acidity is both a little firmer and a bit brighter as well. This delicious effort could use better depth but more should reasonably develop with a few years of aging. Allen Meadows, Burghound 90-92 Points
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A slightly riper if still agreeably fresh nose freely offer up its array of white and yellow orchard fruit, citrus rind, apple and tidal pool hints. The palate impression of the medium weight flavors possesses more volume still with a lovely sense of richness and minerality that adds a sense of lift to the very dry but not really austere finale. A few years of cellaring should see this drinking well. Allen Meadows, Burghound 89-92 Points
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This gorgeous old-vine Chassagne rouge hails from a single 0.94-hectare parcel of 50-plus-year-old Pinot Noir vines grown on the red clays of Les Grandes Terres on the Santenay side of Chassagne. The clay-rich soil has long produced some of the finest and silkiest reds of the village. The 2022 fermented with 50% bunches, bringing perfume and extra-fine tannins. It’s an incredibly pretty, floral, red-and-blue-fruited expression of Chassagne. It’s already drinking remarkably well!“M
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Egly easily sits in my list of top 5 Champagne Houses The current release is the first blend to include three vintages and the wine is all the better for it. The dosage for this release was just two grams per litre. We really love this wine and the contrast it offers from the rest of the range. It’s a super mineral, pure fruit wine with a weight and personality that reminds us of the great Jérôme Prévost (perhaps it’s the Meunier influence). Regardless, expect wonderful precision, the del
$181
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Agrapart 7 Crus Brut (Base 2020/19)

Chardonnay | Oiry, Champagne

Disgorged June 2023. Limited. 100% Grand Cru, with the fruit sourced only from great sites across four revered villages in the Côte des Blancs: Avize, Cramant, Oger and Oiry. Together with the terroir, vine age is a key factor in quality. The average age of the plantings is more than 50 years.This release is based on 2019 and 2018, with the reserve wine making up a remarkable 80% of the cuvée—another key to the quality. After natural fermentation, half the wine matured in large-format, n
$181
$174ea in any 3+
$167ea in any 6+

Agrapart 7 Crus Brut (Base 2021/20)

Chardonnay | Oiry, Champagne

Disg. March 2024. The Agrapart range begins with a non-vintage wine called 7 Crus. The name refers to the seven Côte des Blancs villages from which the wine derives. These include Avize (from younger vines aged 20 to 40 years), Cramant, Oger, Oiry, Avenay-Val-d’Or, Coligny and Vauciennes. Like all Agrapart wines, the fruit is from 100% estate-owned and farmed vineyards.7 Crus is a blend of two harvests: in this case, 60% is 2021 from 1er Cru sites; and 40% is 2020 from Grand Cru sites.
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Champagne Benoît Marguet Shaman Rosé Grand Cru 2020

Blend | Montagne de Reims, Ambonnay

Wonderful flowers, outstanding red fruits, savoury with baking spice. Orange citrus zest and oil. Seamless shape & flow. The harmony between the Chardonnay and Pinot is excellent. This is a table wine with fizz. Beautiful. Red fruit powering through as it opens. Fine tannin of presence adds textural intrigue to a long palate that delights.Vin Clairs are blended from the terroirs of Ambonnay and Bouzy. A rosé d’assemblage combining a majority of Chardonnay with Pinot Noir. The stil
$181
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Domaine Jean-Jacques Nuits-Saint-Georges ‘Fleurieres’ 2019

Pinot Noir | Nuits-Saint-Georges, France

“One third whole bunch vinification. Medium deep purple with quite an elegant bouquet for south side Nuits-St-Georges, starting with delicacy and finishing with much more powerful dark fruit, and very good length of flavour.”Jasper Morris
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The 2023 Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons bursts with aromas of white flowers and peach, followed by a medium to full-bodied, satiny and suave palate that's pure, seamless and charming.William Kelley, The Wine Advocate 91 PointsA discreet application of wood sets off notes of white pepper, acacia blossom, spice and just enough Chablis typicity to be interesting. On the palate there is again both good volume and refinement to the generously proportioned middle weight flavors that possess a sa
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A more elegant and slightly cooler nose freely reveals its aromas of shellfish, white flower and mineral reduction. The sleeker and more intense medium-bodied flavors flash evident minerality on the nicely punchy finish where a touch of lemon zest-tinged acidity helps keep the proper balance. This does though need better depth so a few years of keeping are recommended. Allen Meadows, Burghound 88-91 Points
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Eric et Joël Durand Cornas ‘Confidence’ 2019

Shiraz/Syrah | Rhône Valley, Cornas

The sophistication and depth of tannin here is impressive. Again a lick of cleverly used, integrated oak hiding behind the fruit that will disappear completely with a little time in bottle. The extra year already sees it resolving. Silky, super fine grape tannins run the length of the palate with lingering fruit of energy. The graphite and mineral thing happening. Even with one extra year the complexity is building. Fresh clean and precise wines with plenty more to come.  The 2019 Corn
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