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France

France has gone on a roller coaster ride. A booming industry was decimated by mildew and phylloxera in the second half of the 19th century, then two World Wars in the 20th century. Thirst won in the end, and, France is now the World’s #2 wine producer by volume.

Without doubt the two greatest drivers of the French wine industry have been the concept of Terroir and the establishment of the Appellation d’origine contrôlée.

Combined these have defined a philosophical approach to growing and making wine and enforced strict controls of grape varieties that can be planted in each region and winemaking practices that can be employed.

Frances has come through with flying colours, successive generations have been better trained, spent time in the New World exposing them to different techniques for growing vines and making wine, and, have been able to push the boundaries to achieve excellence.

First Records of Wine Production – Go back millennia to the 6th century BC. The Greeks kicked things off with the Romans ramping things up. Those Romans got around and took their vines and wines with them! Over time the wealth of the Monastries took over much of the production. Nobility took their turn until the guillotine fell!

Founding Figures – In ‘recent times’, technical advancement in the industry were driven by Minister of the Interior, Jean-Antoine Chaptal following the French revolution, work done by Louis Pasteur in the 19th century, and, the Emperor Napoleon III commissioning of the 1855 classification of Bordeaux.

Area Planted – with around 630,000 hectares of vines France produces 17% of the World’s wine

Established Regions – When we think French wine, the regions that immediately come to mind are Champagne with its fizz, Bordeaux’s Cabernet blends and Sauternes, Burgundy’s Pinot and Chardonnay, the Rhône Valley’s Shiraz, Grenache, Marsanne & Roussane, and, Alsatian Riesling.

Most Common Varieties

White – From greatest area planted down the top red varieties are Ugni Blanc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Melon de Bourgogne, Sémillon, Chennin Blanc, Colombard, Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains, Grenache Blanc, Viognier, and, Riesling.

Red – The list doesn’t surprise the order they come in does from greatest area planted down the top red varieties are Merlot, Grenache, Syrah, Carignan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Gamay, Pinot Noir, Cinsaut, Pinot Meunier and Mourvèdre.

Up and Coming Regions – In recent times we’ve seen the Rosé of Provence, the hidden gems from the Languedoc, Jura and Loire Valley increasing in popularity.

Showing of wines

Chardonnay from Rully, Côte Chalonnaise

Domaine Vincent Dureuil-Janthial Rully 1er Cru ‘Le Meix Cadot’ 2022

Here too there is a whiff of phenolic character suffusing the equally exotic nose where the wood influence is slightly more prominent though still reasonably discreet. On the palate there is outstanding density to the rich, punchy and sappy medium weight and generously proportioned flavors that terminate in a refreshing lemon rind-inflected finish that could also use better depth. Dink 2028+Allen Meadows, Burghound 90 PointsThe 2022 Rully Meix Cadot ler Cru comes from 1.7-hectares of

Vintage 2022
$170
$163ea in any 3+
$156ea in any 6+
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Chenin Blanc from Anjou, D'Anjou-Saumur

Thibaud Boudignon Anjou Blanc à Francois(e) 2022

Made from a small parcel in the village of Saint-Lambert, the 2022 Anjou Blanc à Francois(e) is a mouth-filling style without any heaviness. The generosity of the 2022 season has been curbed, and there's a nervousness and slightly reductive nature that keeps it tight. Expect an attractive sourness from the acidity and salinity. The finish has a nice twist of savory character with 20% new oak (500-liter and cigar format). Time is needed here to ameliorate.Rebecca Gibb MW, Vinous 93 Points

Vintage 2022
$173
$166ea in any 3+
$159ea in any 6+

Pinot Noir from Nuits-Saint-Georges, Côte-de-Nuits

David Duband Nuits-Saint-Georges 2018

‘(from La Charmotte, Aux Saints-Juliens and Les Plateaux). A pungent nose is comprised at present by notes of reduction and wood toast. Otherwise there is excellent volume and mid-palate density to the powerful and muscular medium-bodied flavors that deliver outstanding depth and persistence on the robust and rustic finale. This outstanding if quite serious villages level wine is very Nuits in basic character. Drink 2028+.’Burghound.com January 2020.

Vintage 2018
$175
$168ea in any 3+
$161ea in any 6+

Chardonnay from Chablis, Burgundy

Domaine Testut Chablis 1er Cru ‘Forêt’ 2019

Excellent drinking. Drink this while you wait for the Grenouille to build. Line, length, texture, with a sufficient generosity giving it approachability in youth without adding any of the clumsy bits. Classic, delicious, delicate. Wonderful élévage making for a complete wine.0.20 ha of 80 year-old vines, the same age as Beugnons. Only replaced with massale selections.A pure and elegant nose features notes of citrus zest, mineral reduction, iodine and hints of algae. There is again

Vintage 2019
$177
$170ea in any 3+
$163ea in any 6+
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Domaine des Roches Neuves Samur Blanc 'Clos de l'Échelier' 2021
Bone Dry!

Chenin Blanc from Saumur, D'Anjou-Saumur

Domaine des Roches Neuves Samur Blanc ‘Clos de l’Échelier’ 2021

Stunning Chenin Blanc to Rival the Drinking Pleasure of 1er Cru White Burg & the Worlds Best Dry Rizza!So fine. Superbly textured. Stunning acid of epic length, piercing long and lovely. Fruit length and depth continue to build epically long after swallowing. Incredibly complex & layered. Such depth. Citrus, lemon, a little white grapefruit, pear & quince, garrigue woody herb. When the acid settles and generosity builds with time in bottle this will be an absolute ripper. Wait 3-5 years.

Vintage 2021
$177
$170ea in any 3+
$163ea in any 6+
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Chardonnay from Chablis, Burgundy

Moreau-Naudet Chablis 1er Cru ‘Forêts’ 2021

Stéphane Moreau called Forêts “…one of the greatest terroirs of Chablis.” It’s a historical sub-plot within the 1er Cru Montmains, located high up the slope and facing southeast. It can certainly produce Chablis of the highest order, as both Dauvissat and Moreau have shown many times (Raveneau also has a small parcel). Moreau farms two plots of vines here, over a total of just under two hectares. The first is alongside the vineyard of Vincent Dauvissat, and the vines are the s

Vintage 2021
$177
$172ea in any 3+
$167ea in any 6+

Chardonnay from Chablis, Burgundy

Moreau-Naudet Chablis 1er Cru ‘Vaillons’ 2022

On the left bank of Le Serein and on the middle of the slope, Vaillons is a particularly well-positioned Premier Cru that enjoys an excellent reputation thanks to the work of several key growers. The domaine works with vines planted in 1974 in the lieux-dits of Les Epinottes (a cooler part of the vineyard) and Roncières (which provides more opulence). Then, a parcel of 75-year-old vines in Sécher usually accounts for 30% of the blend and provides intense mineral cut and structure. The wine wa

Vintage 2022
$177
$170ea in any 3+
$163ea in any 6+

Chardonnay from Chablis, Burgundy

Moreau-Naudet Chablis 1er Cru ‘Beauregard’ 2022

The most south-westerly of all the Chablis Premiers Crus, Les Beauregards is one of its coolest due to its altitude and location at the end of Chablis’ Left Bank. It’s also one of the steepest (meaning the clay soils are shallow, and the limestone marl is never far from the surface) and one of the highest, rising to 300 metres. While this parcel has been in the family’s hands for decades, it was replanted in 2001 with mass-selection cuttings from Stéphane Moreau’s most treasured vine

Vintage 2022
$177
$170ea in any 3+
$163ea in any 6+

Pinot Noir from Chassagne-Montrachet, Côte du Beaune

Benoît Moreau Chassagne-Montrachet Vieilles Vignes Rouge 2022

Chassagne rouge is moving up in the world. Growers like Olivier Lamy, Thierry Pillot and Alex and Benoît Moreau (to mention only those producers we are following closely) show the heights this often-undervalued appellation can achieve through best-practice farming and excellent winemaking. The warmer seasons, too, have been helpful, bringing more approachable tannins when the wines are young. It’s from two small parcels of 50-year-old vines below the village. The 2022 fermented with 10% bunch

Vintage 2022
$177
$170ea in any 3+
$163ea in any 6+

Pinot Noir from Savigny-lès-Beaune, Côte du Beaune

Domaine Jean Marc & Hugues Pavelot Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru ‘La Dominode’ 2020

Pavelot's Top wine rates as one of the few remaining bargains in Burgundy! An extremely ripe yet again, still fresh nose offers up its aromas of mocha, poached plum and black cherry jam. The rich, round and quite supple medium-bodied flavors immediately firm up on the youthfully austere, palate coating and lightly mineral infused finale. This firmly structured effort is going to need at least some patience as it's presently quite tightly wound. Drink: 2036+ ♥ OutstandingAllen Meadows, Bur

Vintage 2020
$180
$173ea in any 3+
$166ea in any 6+
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Chardonnay from Chablis, Burgundy

Jean-Paul et Benôit Droin Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons 2022

A slightly cooler if still ripe nose reflects notes of white pepper, plenty of citrus influence and discreet shellfish nuances. Here too the palate impression of the middleweight flavors is one of richness and generosity yet the supporting acidity is both a little firmer and a bit brighter as well. This delicious effort could use better depth but more should reasonably develop with a few years of aging. Allen Meadows, Burghound 90-92 Points

Vintage 2022
$180
$173ea in any 3+
$166ea in any 6+

Chardonnay from Chablis, Burgundy

Jean-Paul et Benôit Droin Chablis 1er Cru Vaucoupin 2022

A slightly riper if still agreeably fresh nose freely offer up its array of white and yellow orchard fruit, citrus rind, apple and tidal pool hints. The palate impression of the medium weight flavors possesses more volume still with a lovely sense of richness and minerality that adds a sense of lift to the very dry but not really austere finale. A few years of cellaring should see this drinking well. Allen Meadows, Burghound 89-92 Points

Vintage 2022
$180
$173ea in any 3+
$166ea in any 6+

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