Winery

Nikolaihof

The wines of the house are a singular experience: the combination of unique Wachau terroirs with ancestral technique blends together in this place to form something at once ancient, yet novel in the contemporary wine world.

About Weingut Nikolaihof

On the eastern edge of the Wachau valley, there lies Nikolaihof, in the quiet village of Mautern.

In its current manifestation, Nikolaihof is a wine estate, yet it has lived many lives. The wines of the house are a singular experience: the combination of unique Wachau terroirs with ancestral technique blends together in this place to form something at once ancient, yet novel in the contemporary wine world. Decisions here are not dictated by the market or trends.

Nikolaus Saahs (Jnr) runs the Nikolaihof estate on strict biodynamic principles and it is possibly Europe’s first ever biodynamic winery with the practices being used since 1971 (before Nicolas Joly even!). They were certified in the early 1990s.

Away from the vini/viticulture side of things, they also practice what they preach, running their estate as a small bio-farm; growing and making all manner of produce to serve alongside local fare in their weinstub, as well as serving produce from other local likeminded producers.

Nikolaihof is a realm dense with historical memory. These memories and a winemaking ethos built upon tradition provide the backbone for many of the hallmarks of Nikolaihof. Wines are released when they are ready not necessarily when the market wants them. Fermentation and elevage are never rushed or hurried. Harvests are unique in the vineyards of Nikolaihof. Due to the strict use of biodynamic preparations and vineyard management, the estate is often able to achieve grape ripeness well before their more conventional-farming neighbors. The rhythms and cycles of Nikolaihof are all their own. They are continuing traditions and living in a history with deeper roots than almost any estate in Europe.

Nikolaihof is the oldest wine estate in Austria, for over two millennia, the grounds of Nikolaihof have been revered for both vinous pursuits and the mystical. Nikolaus Saahs, the current owner and winemaker at Nikolaihof, took over production from his parents in 2005. At the helm of this famed house, he keeps the long view in mind. Which course this makes sense when one considers the scale of history the estate encompasses. The Nikolaihof monastery was founded in 985 AD by the diocese of Passau. Its specific location was chosen to capitalize on pre-existing Celtic mystical reverence for the site dating back to the Roman era as well as the prestigious vineyards nearby. The wines of Nikolaihof are still barrel-aged in the ancient cellar built by the Romans in the 63BC. The current buildings stand on the original foundations and the barrel cellar itself is constructed in the Roman crypt. It’s incredible!

Winemaking on the site can be traced back to the Celts, with the first documented reference to wine from 470 AD.

Nikolaus’ mother, Christine, was a student of Rudolph Steiner’s School of Anthroposophy after being acquainted with his teaching in medical school. Christine became an important advocate for biodynamic agriculture in Austria and Europe. Nikolaihof was one of the first biodynamic wineries in Europe in 1971. The results speak for themselves: year to year Nicholas is able to harvest ripe, healthy grapes even in years where others may struggle. And yet the wines of Nikolaihof show remarkable balance. The category of “Smaragd” designates the ripest, high-alcohol wines of the valley with at least 12.5% ABV. Sometimes this leads to over-blown or flabby wines. Yet Nikolaihof’s Smaragd wines always fall closer to the 12.5% line representing elegant, balanced examples of the category.

“Organic, biodynamic winery whose wines express the earth, the whole earth and nothing but the earth. Nikolaihof’s wines are often incredibly thick, dense and uncompromisingly stony in character… JUST GIVE THESE WINES TIME. They’ll do everything for you that great wine can do, if you are patient. Early on you’ll easily see their sheer intensity, but specific details can be lost in a monolith of concentration, an opacity that can be perplexing if you don’t know what’s ahead. Thus detailed tasting notes are difficult if you feel the need to delineate skeins of flavors with sequences of associations. Here you just stand on the prow and feel the wind and look at the swollen waves of vinosity and hope you aren’t swept overboard. And hope you are. . . .”

Michael Skurnik

“A remarkable shelf life is a general feature of the wines of Nikolaihof, which tend to develop very slowly – what factors are responsible for the degree, we can only guess: an essential part of the reason is the decades of biodynamic management according to Nikolaus Saahs. However, you can also attribute it to the slow fermentation with natural yeasts and the customary maceration times, and also the fact that, while in principle the work is reductive, the maturation in large old oak barrels takes place in the perfect cellar environment. The shelf-life of the wines does not rely on the alcohol because even in the hot, ripe years the Smaragds do not significantly exceed 13 percent.”

Vinaria

In the Vineyard

Nikolaihof’s holdings are some of the farthest east in the Wachau near the village of Mautern on the Danube’s south bank. In fact one of Nikolaihof’s most ethereal wines is sourced from Steiner Hund, a vineyard just across the border in the Kremstal.  These are also some of the oldest known vineyards in Europe with sites such as “im Weingebirge” being mentioned as far back as 470AD. Whether it’s Nikolaus biodynamic know-how, his focus on ancestral vinification techniques, or the quality of his terroir, the resulting wines are wildly unique and joyful.

Today the vineyard area totals 22 hectares, predominantly in the Wachau with a small area in neighbouring Kremstal. The soils are decomposed granite, gneiss and mica. Many of the sites across the domaine have old vines with the average age of over 50 years.

Nikolaihof has maintained a regime of biodynamic intervention and cultivation for over 40 years. Under Nikolaus this tradition continues. No pesticides or herbicides are used in their vineyards instead stinging nettles, manure, valerian tea and other traditional biodynamic preparations make up Nikolaihof’s inventory for pest management and overall vineyard health.

Top Sites

Im Weingebirge: The oldest named vineyard site in Europe, the soil is varied with loess on the higher terraces and deep topsoil over primary rock lower down the slope

Vom Stein: Vom Stein is a sub-site of the Silberbichel vineyard. The soils are gneiss with mica inclusions; there is a layer of loess and topsoil

Steiner Hund: Primary rock with river pebbles, very stony, just outside of the Wachau borders hence the labeling of “Reserve” and not Smaragd

Soil Types: Primary rock topped with humus or gravel, and eroded primary rock

Grape Varieties: 55% Riesling, 35% Grüner Veltliner, 10% Weissburgunder, Malvasier, Neuburger, and Chardonnay

In the Winery

Fermentations at Nikolaihof are long, slow, and spontaneous. Elevage happens in large, 40-year-old barrels or stainless steel with full lees contact until the wines are bottled. These bottlings could be many years from harvest. The Vinothek Riesling Severin Fass matures for 25 years in large oak barrels before bottling! Consider Nikolaihof’s lauded 1995 Vinothek Riesling: the first Austrian white wine to receive 100 points from Wine Advocate, it was bottled 17 years after harvest and released to the market in 2012. This wine sold out upon release but the 1997 Vinothek is available now and has received its share of acclaim (Advocate & Vinous Media both gave it 97 points.)

The result is some of the greatest white wines I have been privileged to taste. Delicate with strong mineral accents and deep concentration, their low alcohol and crystalline purity is the antithesis of the late picked, high extract styles that are famous from the Wachau. These are wines with incredible energy that will demand your time.

The Wachau Classification

The Steinfeder, Federspiel and Smaragd classifications are inseparably linked to the wines of the Wachau. The wines are always dry, made without any noticeable wood influence, while any form of sugar addition is not permitted. The categories are defined according to the level of maturity of the grapes.

Nikolaihof whilst using the classification makes many wines that although labeled within one classification sit above that classification in terms of real quality and pleasure in the glass. Nikolaihof achieves phenological, flavour and tannin, ripeness and sugar levels lower than many in the Wachau. The fruit is ripe, yet it is achieved at lower alcohol and with higher natural acidity than many other producers. This might sound like a technicality, the impact in the glass is significant. It’s only possible to pick ripe fruit at this alcohol when you have old, balanced vines that have seen attention to detail not just across a year but across decades. Such intensity is typically seen at much higher alcohol in Austria. Achieving flavour and phenolic ripeness at lower alcohol levels has the benefit of giving a wine freshness, energy, and a weightlessness, feather light feel not otherwise possible. I saw this time and time again making the wine at Yarra Yering. Our vintage would be finished before many were even halfway through picking!

STEINFEDER ®

The “Steinfeder” is an indigenous feather grass from the Wachau and the name for the lightest of the three Wachau wine categories. It was the first trademark introduced by Vinea Wachau in 1984. The maximum alcohol content is 11.5 % by volume. The style is lively and delicate, with refreshing fruit in the foreground.

FEDERSPIEL®

A “Federspiel” is a prey dummy used as a lure in falconry, a sport once popular in the Wachau. These wines have between 11.5% and 12.5% alcohol, which puts them at the golden mean of the Wachau’s stylistic spectrum. These wines are often labelled with their vineyard of origin. Federspiels combine vitality and character and their delicate aroma components make them ideal food matches.

SMARAGD ®

The Wachau vineyard terraces and their dry stone walls offer a natural habitat for numerous plants and animals; among them the local green “Smaragd” lizard that lends its name to the best known of the Vinea categories. The grapes for the Smaragd wines, which must have a minimum of 12.5% alcohol by volume, ripen in the best vineyard sites of the Wachau. They are harvested late and are true representatives of their terroir. The wines are concentrated and powerful, complex and very long-lived.

I can’t recall the connection between this lizard and the Smaragd classification. You’ll see it on some labels. The pic of this scaly friend was taken in Nikolaihof’s vineyards.

Where in the World is Nikolaihof?

Weingut Nikolaihof is based in the eastern extremes of the Wachau Valley with additional holdings just across the border in Kremstal.

Filters & Sorting

Weingut Nikolaihof Grüner Veltliner Federspiel 2022

Grüner Vetliner | Wachau, Austria

Thought to be the oldest documented vineyard, the name “Im Weingebirge”, Wine Mountains, dates back to the 5th Century. The wines from this vineyard are known to have impressive depth and minerality. The soil is varied with loess on the higher terraces and deep topsoil over primary rock lower down the slope. The wine ages on its lees in old barrels, giving it a creamy texture to match the fruit and Grüner spice.**REVIEW OF THE 2020** Previously called Im Weingebirge, the 2020 Gr
$87
$83ea in any 3+
$79ea in any 6+

Weingut Nikolaihof Gutswein Riesling 2017

Riesling | Wachau, Austria

"The 2017 Riesling Gutswein was harvested late with some botrytis and stopped at 12g/L of residual sweetness. Juicy apricot and peach beckon on the nose, promising fruity generosity that the palate promptly delivers - smooth and off-dry. Herbal lift adds dimension, while concentration and ripeness fill the mouth. Fine concentration, acidity and a pithy sense of phenolics and citrus are beautifully set against that slight sweetness, making this an alluring proposition. Off dry."Anne Krebiehl
$96
$92ea in any 3+
$88ea in any 6+

Weingut Nikolaihof Chardonnay 2019

Chardonnay | Wachau, Austria

Variety: 100% Chardonnay Region: Wachau Vineyard: Own vineyards. Soil Type: Loess soil on Danube gravel Alcohol: 13.5% Acidity: 6.2 grams per liter Residual sugar: 6 grams per liter**DUE MID-2024**
$96
$92ea in any 3+
$88ea in any 6+
Nikolaihof’s Fiederspiel level the middle ripeness of the classifications.Vom Stein: This site is a sub-site of the larger Silberbichel vineyard. Located south east of the village, this is just 5.25 Ha and is a slight incline, sloping east, on the easternmost border of the Silberbichel vineyard.  The soils are gneiss with mica inclusions; there is a layer of loess and topsoil here – 60-120cm before you start to hit primary rock. Nikolaihof is the only winery to bottle this site on it�
$96
$92ea in any 3+
$88ea in any 6+
Weingut Nikolaihof Grüner Veltliner Hefeabzug 2020
Due December 2025

Weingut Nikolaihof Grüner Veltliner Hefeabzug 2020

Grüner Vetliner | Wachau, Austria

Sourced from many different vineyards near Mautern, the Grüner Veltliner Hefeabzug is Nikolaus Saahs’ “Steinfeder” class.Named after the aging process on light lees. The lightest Grüner Veltliner is a perfect aperitif wine. Fresh and expressive.The 2020 Grüner Veltliner Hefeabzug is very clear and bright in color and flavors, with refreshing lime and lemon zest aromas, great precision, definition and finesse. Quite substantial on the palate, this is a textural, intense,
$113
$108ea in any 3+
$103ea in any 6+
Superb harmony and clarity, a charming transparency, graceful, pure and flowing, perfectly weighted with long even length and depth.White flowers, earthy, savoury, lanolin & shroom funk, a little spice spice. Fine luscious mouthfeel with incredible restraint, sophisticated yet powerful. Underlying ripe, fresh citrus of energy. Such grace with a sensual texture. Beautifully developed yet full of energy. Blossoming in the glass. This wine speaks to me!
$115
$110ea in any 3+
$105ea in any 6+
This wine is from the ripest Smaragd classification.Thought to be the oldest documented vineyard, the name “Im Weingebirge”, Wine Mountains, dates back to the 5th Century. The wines from this vineyard are known to have impressive depth and minerality. The soil is varied with loess on the higher terraces and deep topsoil over primary rock lower down the slope. The wine ages on its lees in old barrels, giving it a creamy texture.The 2013 Baumpresse version of this was insane!A
$155
$148ea in any 3+
$141ea in any 6+

Weingut Nikolaihof Ried Vom Stein Riesling Smaragd 2019

Riesling | Niederösterreich, Austria

"The 2019 Riesling vom Stein Smaragd smells of fresh Mirabelle, ripe Amalfi lemon and a touch of chervil on a yeasty, smooth nose. The palate presents all this in one smooth, cooling flow, with notions of lemon becoming ever more prominent and apricot making a charming, perfumed appearance. Riesling's exuberance has been tamed into soothing mildness here. Full marks for charm and exquisite purity of fruit. Bone dry." Anne Krebiehl MW, Vinous 94 PointsNikolaihof’s Smaragd level th
$169
$162ea in any 3+
$155ea in any 6+

Weingut Nikolaihof Ried Steiner Hund Riesling 2017

Riesling | Niederösterreich, Austria

Under a thin layer of humus, the vine roots dig deep in the hard, primary rock and bring forth extremely balanced wines with pronounced mineral character and refined elegance."The 2017 Riesling Steiner Hund, formerly called Reserve, was grown in Stein on terraced, stony vineyards across the Danube, and is thus labeled Neiderosterreich. Subtle peach and straw on the nose have the slightest floral overtone. Concentrated, buffered and intense, the palate is vivid, with lemony, waxy, yeasty
$210
$200ea in any 3+
$190ea in any 6+
Weingut Nikolaihof Federspiel Ried Vom Stein Riesling 2005
Due December 2025

Weingut Nikolaihof Federspiel Ried Vom Stein Riesling 2005

Riesling | Niederösterreich, Austria

The late-released 2005 Riesling Vom Stein in fact represents only half of what was produced under that name. The Saahs family would have preferred to have left the total volume in cask for future release, but that wasn’t practical in this instance, so they split it. Raspberry, brown spices, incense, and sweet floral notes result in an unusual and scintillating bouquet. On the palate, there is a dramatically dynamic exchange of berry, citrus, and floral flavors, but also an adamant underlying s
$241
$231ea in any 3+
$221ea in any 6+
Weingut Nikolaihof Reid Im Weingebirge Grüner Veltliner Smaragd 2015
Due December 2025
This wine is from the ripest Smaragd classification.Thought to be the oldest documented vineyard, the name “Im Weingebirge”, Wine Mountains, dates back to the 5th Century. The wines from this vineyard are known to have impressive depth and minerality. The soil is varied with loess on the higher terraces and deep topsoil over primary rock lower down the slope. The wine ages on its lees in old barrels, giving it a creamy texture.Bottled at the end of April this year (2018), the 201
$243
$233ea in any 3+
$223ea in any 6+

Weingut Nikolaihof Baumpresse Riesling 2015

Grüner Vetliner | Wachau, Austria

"The 2015 Riesling Baumpresse was pressed in the historic press operated by a single oak beam. It was bottled in 2020 and released in spring 2023. Waxiness hits the nost first, followed by dried lemon peel and zest. The palate is super-smooth, with evolution that presents an intense waxiness, almost an oiliness, propelled by lemony intensity. Glints of ripe apricot shimmer, but the palate returns to its golden mean of dried lemon peel. The contrast between rich flavour and slender palate is min
$290
$280ea in any 3+
$270ea in any 6+