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The 2022 Vintage at Bouchard by William Kelley
The 2022 vintage is another tour de force for Bouchard, as the accompanying tasting notes reflect. Technical director Frédéric Weber reported little in the way of hydric stress, with rapid ripening at the end of the season that saw some parcels accumulate 1.5% potential alcohol in as little as three days. Fortunately, the team hadn’t performed any deleafing and were able to apply protective kaolin clay as sunblock for the leaves and fruit to ride out the heat wave. Harvest began on August 26, with anything picked after 11 a.m. left overnight in a cold room for processing the following day, and the harvesters stopping work at 2 p.m.
As I’ve written before, viticulture chez Bouchard is among the best of the big houses (I drive past their Beaune vineyards several hundred times every year). Organic conversion is underway, and canopies are now hedged to 1.30 meters, around 30 centimeters higher than the classic low rognage that still predominates along the Côte—forward-thinking innovations that will no doubt find imitators in short order among other big players. Vinifications in red increasingly incorporate whole bunches, and whites are barreled down before the end of alcoholic fermentation, with foudres now employed for the second winter of élevage for some cuvées.
The 2022 Vintage in General by Allen Meadows, Burghound
The best wines are modern classic Burgundies in the best sense of that term. They have something of everything in terms of a tantalising freshness as they are decidedly very Pinot in character followed by good, if not truly remarkable transparency on the palate. To obtain transparency, you usually have to sacrifice either richness or concentration and this is what is so special about the 22’s is that they have enough to each that it renders the mouthfeel to be particularly seductive while retaining the balance necessary such that a complete picture of a given terroir can be assessed and appreciated. With respect to agreeability 2022 really is one of those rare vintage where almost everyone can have their cake and eat it too, like them young, no problems, like them old no problems as well.
The 2022 Vintage in General by Jasper Morris MW – Inside Burgundy
“All other things being equal, I would recommend going large in 2022, large in the sense of a broad range because there are so many really good wines at all levels.”
Jasper Morris MW
Domaine BOUCHARD Pere et Fils
Renowned and respected as one of the finest producers in Burgundy, Bouchard Père et Fils has truly become an institution, known for the exceptional quality of their wines and the diversity of its many vineyards.
Founded in 1731, Bouchard Père et Fils has built up an estate of 130ha and, collectively, is the largest owner of Grand Crus (12ha) and Premier Crus (74ha) across the Côte d’Or Bouchard Père et Fils represents almost one hundred ‘climats’ or uniquely diverse vineyards, including prestigious monopoles such as ‘Beaune Grèves Vigne de l’Enfant Jésus’ and ‘Chevalier-Montrachet La Cabotte’.
In 1820 Bernard Bouchard purchased the Château de Beaune, a former royal fortress built in the 15th century by King Louis XI.
Four of the five original towers of the fortress, as well as parts of the ramparts, still stand today, and have featured on the list of historic monuments since 1937.
The cellars run deep underground beneath the property providing ideal natural storage conditions for Bouchard Père & Fils’ fine wines.
Up to 10 metres deep, the wines develop and age undisturbed. These include a unique collection of over 2,000 bottles from the 19thcentury. A priceless historical legacy with, as its icon, the oldest wine – a Meursault Charmes 1846 which still retains its luster.
Over time, by acquiring various terroirs with great care and patience, Bouchard Père & Fils has built up the biggest domaine in the Côte d’Or. Today the estate boasts 130 hectares of vines, of which 12 are classed Grand Cru and 74 classed as Premier Cru.
An Update on Domaine BOUCHARD Pere et Fils
From Burghound
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2022 BEAUNE du CHATEAU Blanc
$107
(a blend of five 1ers totaling over 10 ha that include Tuvilains, Aigrots, Sur les Grèves Les Cras and Sizies). As is often the case with this wine, there is a subtle exoticism in the form of white peach and citrus confit. There is very good verve and cut to the relatively sleek middleweight flavors that terminate in a nicely dry, clean and youthfully austere finish. I would add that this appears to have the stuffing to reward four to six years of keeping though the mid-palate is sufficiently supple that it could be opened young in a pinch.
Allen Meadows’ Burghound (89-91)/2027+
Aromas of minty pear, white flowers and buttery pastry introduce the 2022 Beaune 1er Cru du Château Blanc, a medium to full-bodied, rich and fleshy wine that’s ample, charming and expressive.
William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (89-90)
2022 BEAUNE “Clos Saint-Landry” (Monopole)
$211
(a 1.98 ha monopole). This also typically reflects a touch of exoticism though here the white peach aromas are complemented by nuances of smoke and petrol. I very much like the texture of the racy medium-bodied flavors that retain good detail on the equally dry and clean finish. This could use better depth but it has the balance to repay 5 to 8 years of keeping which should help.
Allen Meadows’ Burghound (89-92)/2028+
The 2022 Beaune 1er Cru Clos Saint-Landry Blanc is charming and expressive, bursting with aromas of pear, sweet orchard fruit, white flowers, apricot and pastry cream. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and satiny, it’s textural but vibrant, concluding with a delicately saline finish.
William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (89-91)
2022 MEURSAULT “Les Clous”
$176
(from a massive 8.6 ha parcel). Notably cooler aromas are comprised by notes of lemon rind, hazelnut and acacia blossom. The medium weight flavors are finer but not denser while exuding evident minerality on the slightly drier and sneaky long finish. This is an excellent villages and is recommended, especially for those who have the patience to cellar it for up to a decade. One to look for, particularly for value.
Allen Meadows’ Burghound (89-92)/2029+ Outstanding ♥
Aromas of pear, orange oil, mint and grapefruit introduce the 2022 Meursault Les Clous, a medium to full-bodied, satiny and giving wine with an expressive core of fruit and a saline finish.
William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (89-91)
2022 MEURSAULT 1er Cru “Les Boucheres”
$276
A more elegant and more floral-suffused nose shyly reveals its aromas of spiced pear and apple. There is good detail and punch to the relatively delicate middleweight flavors that also exude a subtle minerality on the youthfully austere finish. As is often the case when Bouchères is young, it needs to develop more depth so a few years of patience should prove to be beneficial.
Allen Meadows’ Burghound (90-92)/2030+
Aromas of hazelnuts, pear, white flowers and freshly baked bread introduce the 2022 Meursault 1er Cru Les Bouchères, a medium to full-bodied, satiny and textural wine with a fleshy attack that segues into a layered, concentrated mid-palate, concluding with a long, saline finish.
William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (91-93)
2022 MEURSAULT 1er Cru “Le Porusot”
$276
Here the restrained nose grudgingly reveals a smoky combination of petrol, mineral reduction, apple and an array of subtle spice nuances. There is markedly more volume and power to the dense and muscular larger-bodied flavors that display solid length on the serious, robust and youthfully austere finish. This is quite tightly wound and will need at least a decade to reach its full apogee.
Allen Meadows’ Burghound (90-93)/2032+ Outstanding ♥
The 2022 Meursault 1er Cru Le Porusot is very promising, exhibiting notes of pear, toasted hazelnuts, white flowers and beeswax, followed by a medium to full-bodied, satiny and precise palate that’s mineral and penetrating, something that’s been a hallmark of this cuvée in recent years.
William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (92-94)
2022 MEURSAULT 1er Cru “Charmes”
$331
(from Charmes Dessous). A cool, pure and airy nose reflects notes of Granny Smith apple, acacia blossom any variety of citrus influences. The medium weight flavors possess a sleek and intense mouthfeel while offering excellent length on the powerful but linear and firmly austere finale. This is extremely promising but a wine that is presently quite tightly wound and one that is unlikely to make for especially interesting early drinking.
Allen Meadows’ Burghound (91-94)/2032+ Sweet spot Outstanding ♥
Aromas of golden orchard fruit, clear honey, hazelnuts and white flowers introduce the 2022 Meursault 1er Cru Charmes, a medium to full-bodied, rich and satiny wine that’s deep and layered, with lively acids and plenty of chalky structuring extract. It’s built for the cellar.
William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (92-94)
2022 MEURSAULT 1er Cru “Genevrieres”
$341
Half $188
Magnum $780
(from an incredible 2.7 ha holding which makes Bouchard the largest owner). There is a touch of natural exoticism in the form of spiced jasmine tea that adds interest to the cool floral and green apple-scented nose. There is a finer and more sophisticated texture to the beautifully detailed and punchy middleweight flavors that flash ample minerality on the lightly austere and impressively long finish. As is the case with several wines in the range, this too will need to add depth so at least some patience is in order. This is one to consider.
Allen Meadows’ Burghound (91-93)/2032+ Outstanding ♥
Bouchard is replanting a big block in this site, so the 2022 Meursault 1er Cru Genevrières is a smaller cuvée than usual. Unfurling in the glass with notes of pear, white flowers, fresh hazelnuts and ripe citrus, it’s medium to full-bodied, satiny and vibrant, with a fleshy core of fruit that exhibits good concentration and cut.
William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (92-94)
2022 MEURSAULT 1er Cru “Perrieres”
$377
(from 3 separate parcels). This is also quite aromatically cool with a beautiful array of prominent mineral reduction aromas that are nuanced by hints of green apple, exotic tea and plenty of citrus influence. The succulent and refined medium weight flavors possess an absolutely gorgeous mouthfeel while exuding an almost pungent minerality on the moderately austere and wonderfully long finish. This is both stylish and classy though note well that it is very much built to age. This too is one to strongly consider.
Allen Meadows’ Burghound (92-95)/2034+ Sweet spot Outstanding ♥
Bright and tensile, Bouchard’s 2022 Meursault 1er Cru Perrières offers up aromas of pear and green apple mingled with hazelnuts, white flowers and wet stones. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive, it’s racy and electric, concluding with a saline finish.
William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (92-94)
2022 CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET 1er Cru “En Remilly”
$418
2022 CORTON-CHARLEMAGNE Grand Cru
$651
Magnum $1,460
(from a huge 3.65 ha plot in Le Corton). Distinctly cool and restrained aromas of Granny Smith apple, spice and plenty of citrus elements are framed in just enough wood influence to mention. There is almost painful intensity to the larger-bodied flavors that display a taut muscularity and plenty of minerality on the very dry, youthfully austere and impressively long finish. This is presently an impenetrable block that needs more complexity but the Bouchard CC is a wine that ages effortlessly and thus should have no trouble developing more depth over time.
Allen Meadows’ Burghound (92-94)/2034+
Aromas of pear, green apple, white flowers and wet stones introduce the 2022 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, a deep, medium to full-bodied wine that’s taut, chiseled and racy, with excellent depth at the core and an abundance of chalky structuring extract. As usual, it derives from the domaine’s holdings on the Ladoix side.
William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (93-94)
2022 CHEVALIER-MONTRACHET Grand Cru
$1,415
(from a 2.54 ha parcel) Pungent aromas of smoky reduction and wood toast overshadow the underlying fruit today. Otherwise there is excellent size, weight and intensity to the super-sleek and concentrated broad-shouldered flavors that also display plenty of minerality on the youthfully austere finish where an interesting hint of tangerine peel slowly emerges. Like the Corton-Charlemagne, this also needs to develop more depth so once again, at least moderate patience is advised.
Allen Meadows’ Burghound (92-94)/2034+
The 2022 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru is unusually textural and muscular for this bottling, delivering aromas of pear, yellow orchard fruit, buttery pastry, white flowers and freshly baked bread, followed by a medium to full-bodied, deep and layered palate that’s rich and unctuous, with terrific depth at the core and a long, resonant finish.
William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (94-95)
2022 CHEVALIER-MONTRACHET ‘La Cabotte’ Grand Cru
$2,254
Magnum $4,972
Bouchard has been separately vinifying this .21 ha parcel, which at one time was part of Montrachet, since 1992 though the first commercial release was not until 1997; Bouchard jokingly refers to this parcel as their “Montrachet du haute pente”, or upper slope Montrachet.
A slightly riper and vaguely exotic nose displays a pretty array of floral elements nuanced by hints of spice, soft wood and pear liqueur. There is slightly better volume if not necessarily better concentration to the delicious big-bodied flavors that exude a similar level of minerality on the compact, austere and linear finish. As is often the case with this wine, it’s not saying much at present and as such, this too is going to need a long stay in a cool cellar.
Allen Meadows’ Burghound (92-95)/2034+
If this year’s regular Chevalier could be mistaken for La Cabotte in a blind tasting, so the 2022 Chevalier-Montrachet La Cabotte Grand Cru might be mistaken for a Montrachet. Offering up youthfully reductive aromas of pear and peach mingled with hazelnuts, white flowers and orange oil, it’s full-bodied, layered and multidimensional, with broad structural shoulders and an unctuous core of fruit, concluding with a long, saline finish.
William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (95-97)
2022 MONTRACHET Grand Cru
$3,045
Magnum $6,715
(from a .89 ha parcel on the Puligny side; from yields of ~20 hl/ha in 2021)
The 2022 Montrachet Grand Cru is striking, exhibiting even more texture and power than the benchmark 2020 vintage did at the same stage. Wafting from the glass with aromas of pear, hazelnuts, white flowers, buttery pastry and confit orange, it’s full-bodied, rich and layered, with incredible mid-palate volume and intensity. Large-scaled, textural and mouthfilling, it concludes with a long, expansive finish.
William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (95-97)
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2022 MONTHELIE 1er Cru “Les Duresses”
$110
Unwinding in the glass with aromas of dark berry fruit, spices, smoke and plums, the 2021 Monthélie 1er Cru Les Duresses is medium to full-bodied, fleshy and lively, with a rather muscular, serious profile. Like its communal-level counterpart, it’s a strong effort, though it will require some patience.
William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (89-91)
MONTHELIE 1er Cru “Clos les Champs Fulliot”
$110
No reviews available.
2022 BEAUNE du CHATEAU Rouge 1er Cru
$107
(the first vintage for this wine was in 1907 and the heart of it is composed by Les Aigrots though there are as many as 16 other 1ers included, that comprise a whopping 26 ha, depending on the vintage; in 2019 there were a total of 17 1ers). Subtle but not invisible wood sets off ripe and fresh aromas of various dark berries, spice and a whiff of earth. Here too there is fine volume and richness to the generous and seductive, even velvet-textured, flavors that offer very good length if only average depth, though that of course should improve with a few years of keeping.
Allen Meadows’ Burghound (89-91)/2027+
Some of the best terroirs of Beaune are blended together to produce the 2022 Beaune 1er Cru du Château, a medium to full-bodied, supple and pure wine evocative of peonies, sweet spices and red berries. This suave, seamless bottling concludes with a saline finish.
William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (90-92)
2022 BEAUNE 1er Cru “Les Marconnets”
$138
(from a 2.3 ha holding). Here too the nose is cool and elegant with its array of black cherry and raspberry trimmed in anise and violet hints. There is excellent punch to the even more mineral-driven medium-bodied flavors that possess a succulent mid-palate that contrasts with the moderately austere, firm and serious finale. This always needs at least some patience and 2022 will not be any different. Excellent.
Allen Meadows’ Burghound (91-93) 2032+ Outstanding ♥
2022 BEAUNE 1er Cru “Teurons”
$151
(from a 1.7 ha parcel). There is a top note of kirsch on the ripe aromas of red and black pinot fruit that are cut with pretty floral scents. The super-sleek and refined middleweight flavors possess a caressing mid-palate texture that is in keeping with the balanced and sneaky long finish. Teurons also always ages well and so should this example.
Allen Meadows’ Burghound (91-93)/2032+ Outstanding ♥
The 2022 Beaune 1er Cru Les Teurons is excellent, revealing notes of red berries, peonies, orange zest and incense, followed by a medium to full-bodied, bright and precise palate with good depth and cut. This is built to cellar with grace.
William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (91-93)
2022 BEAUNE 1er Cru “Clos de la Mousse”
$211
Half $116
(a 3.37 ha monopole of Bouchard that required seven generations for the family to acquire all of it). A cool, airy and very pretty nose speaks of mostly red berries with more prominent floral nuances. There is a gorgeous texture to the medium weight flavors that are not quite as concentrated yet they’re even finer, all wrapped in a firm, youthfully austere and compact finale. Like the Marconnets, this is going to need at least some patience to blossom.
Allen Meadows’ Burghound (90-93)/2032+ Outstanding ♥
The 2022 Beaune 1er Cru Clos de la Mousse offers up aromas of dark berries, baking chocolate and spices, followed by a medium to full-bodied, deep and fleshy palate that’s chunky and youthfully structured, in keeping with this clay-rich soil that reliably produces seriously age-worthy, albeit less polished, wines.
William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (90-92)
2022 BEAUNE-GREVES 1er Cru “Vigne l’Enfant Jesus”
$458
Magnum $1,037
(from a 4-ha parcel). A slightly riper but brooding nose only grudgingly reveals it aromas of dark berries, earth and a whiff of leather. The noticeably denser medium-bodied flavors are at once caressing but powerful with both mouthcoating sap and tannins on the robust, serious and built-to-age finish. This excellent effort also always needs time in bottle and 2022 will again be no different.
Allen Meadows’ Burghound (91-94)/2034+ Sweet spot Outstanding ♥
The 2022 Beaune 1er Cru Les Grèves Vigne de l’Enfant Jesus is lovely, wafting from the glass with aromas of blackberries, spices, violets and rose petals. Medium to full-bodied, broad and enveloping, with a fleshy attack that segues into a refined, mineral palate and a saline finish, it’s a benchmark for the appellation.
William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (92-94)
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2022 VOLNAY 1er Cru “Taille Pieds”
$209
2022 VOLNAY 1er Cru “Clos du Chenes”
$215
2022 VOLNAY CAILLERETS 1er Cru “Ancienne Cuvee Carnot”
$254
Here too there is a liqueur-like quality to the black cherry aromas that are nuanced by floral and spice hints. The caressing yet intense and beautifully detailed middleweight flavors brim with both minerality and dry extract that carry over to the dusty, moderately austere and affirmatively built-to-age finish. This is one exceptionally classy wine, indeed the mouthfeel is pure silk. Buy it.
Allen Meadows’ Burghound (92-95)/2034+ Sweet spot Outstanding ♥
The 2022 Volnay 1er Cru Les Caillerets Ancienne Cuvée Carnot is showing especially well, bursting with aromas of dark berries and cherries mingled with spices, rose petals and smoke. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and concentrated, it’s pure and ethereal, with lively acids, powdery tannins and a long, saline finish.
William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (92-94)
POMMARD (declassified Rugien)
$163
No reviews available.
2022 GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 1er Cru ‘Les Cazetiers’
$432
This is aromatically very ripe and not as fresh as the best in the range with its aromas poached plum and broad ranging floral scents. By contrast, there is better verve on the palate with rich, concentrated and powerful medium-bodied flavors that exude a subtle minerality on the firm if short and somewhat awkward finale. Again, my predicted range offers the benefit of the doubt.
Allen Meadows’ Burghound (89-92)/2034+
Bouchard’s valedictory 2022 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers is beautiful, wafting from the glass with notes of raspberries, cherries, plums, incense, rose petals and violets. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and pure, with terrific depth at the core, refined tannins and lively acids, it’s suave and harmonious, concluding with a long, penetrating finish.
William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (93-94)
2022 Le CORTON Grand Cru
$418
Magnum $948
The natural coolness of the vineyard is in evidence because while the nose is ripe, it’s cool and also brooding with its overtly floral aromas of black raspberry, the sauvage and newly turned earth. There is excellent underlying tension to the rich, powerful and muscular flavors that also exude a bead of minerality on the youthfully austere, tightly wound and persistent bitter pit fruit-inflected finale. A Corton of (relative) elegance.
Allen Meadows’ Burghound (91-94)/2034+
The 2022 Le Corton Grand Cru is another highlight of the range, mingling aromas of sweet cherries, berries and plums in a complex bouquet, followed by a medium to full-bodied, deep and layered palate that’s dense and structured but beautifully refined, concluding with a long, penetrating finish.
William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (93-95)
2022 CLOS de VOUGEOT Grand Cru
$856
(from domaine-owned fruit in two similarly sized parcels – one at the top in Les Plantes Labet and the other at the bottom of the slope though the bottom was recently pulled up; note that there are often two cuvées). Generous wood sets off overtly earth and sauvage-suffused aromas of mostly black cherry. The wood can also be found on the palate of the bigger-bodied flavors that are also solidly concentrated and powerful, all wrapped in a mocha, dusty and youthfully austere finale. Like the Les Cailles, this robust effort is decidedly old school in style and one that is going to require extended patience.
Allen Meadows’ Burghound (92-95)/2037+
The 2022 Clos Vougeot Grand Cru offers up aromas of inky berries and cherries mingled with incense, smoke and toasty new oak. Medium to full-bodied, suave and refined, with powdery tannins and a mineral finish, it’s an impressively elegant rendition of this sometimes chunky cru that was vinified with 50% whole cluster.
William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (92-94)
2022 CHAMBERTIN Grand Cru
$1,492
(from a .15 ha parcel on the southern end near the top just under the tree line). More moderate though hardly subtle wood sets of cooler and more restrained aromas of red and dark wild currant, spice and a pretty range of floral elements. The sleek, mineral-driven and precise large-scaled flavors are finer, though not richer, before concluding in a compact, linear and austere finale. This needs better depth though given the probably aging curve, that shouldn’t be a problem.
Allen Meadows’ Burghound (92-95)/2037+
The 2022 Chambertin Grand Cru, from a plot at the top of the slope touching Latricières, will be Bouchard’s last. This is always one of the most ethereal renditions of this site, and this vintage is no exception. Wafting from the glass are scents of red berries, sweet spices, blood orange, potpourri and baking chocolate, followed by a medium to full-bodied, fine-boned and melting palate that’s pure, sensual and seamless, with bright acids and a mouthwateringly saline finish.
William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (94-95)
2022 CHAMBERTIN-CLOS de BEZE Grand Cru
$1,364
(from purchased fruit). Generous wood and menthol nuances still allow the liqueur-like aromas of dark currant, violet, lilac and spice elements to be appreciated. There is solid power and punch to the moderately dense and beautifully textured, indeed even plush, flavors that display excellent length on the dusty and youthfully austere finish.
Allen Meadows’ Burghound (92-95)/2034+
The 2022 Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru is another valedictory cuvée for Bouchard, who has been producing this bottling, from a 0.47-hectare parcel just below the tree line, for many years. Wafting from the glass with aromas of cherries, dark berries, incense and spices, it’s full-bodied, rich and layered, with a broad attack that segues into a deep, enveloping palate, concluding with a long, expansive finish.
William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (94-96)
2022 BONNES-MARES Grand Cru
$1,492
(from a .24 ha mix of two-thirds terres rouges and one-third terres blanches, though at present it is 100% terres rouges due to a replanting). Once again the wood treatment is very generous to the point where it fights somewhat with the ripe aromas of black raspberry, spicy plum, violet and earth. The wood is also present on the rich, caressing and powerful broad-shouldered flavors that are at once caressing but serious as the tannic spine supporting the impressively long finish is prominent. This is basically another ‘buy and forget you own it’ wine.
Allen Meadows’ Burghound (92-95)/2037+
Bouchard’s valedictory 2022 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is a brilliant wine in the making, wafting from the glass with aromas of raspberries and plums mingled with rose petals, violets and orange zest. Medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, it’s elegantly muscular, with a cool core of fruit, polished tannins and a long, mineral finish.
William Kelley, The Wine Advocate (95-96)
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