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The Domaines
Domaine Bruno COLIN
Domaine Marc-Antonin BLAIN
Domaine BLAIN-GAGNARD
Domaine BOUCHARD Pere et Fils
Domaine Pousse d’Or
The 2020 Vintage
If you have a Vinous subscription Neal Martin has written a comprehensive report on the 2020 Vintage. It’s an in-depth piece covering the the growing season, winemaking trends, domaine changes (acquisitions and splits), the wines, and market trends.
Salinet points:
- It was the earliest vintage ever.
- Despite the heat, natural acidities were maintained with lower pH’s that might have been expected.
- Fruit was clean.
- Skin to juice rations were high.
- Beaune & Savigny-Les-Beaune punched above their perceived weight.
- Whites: Managing picking time saw good acidity and low pH overall.
- Reds: Overall with the trend toward finer, fresher styles, tannins were fine. Yields were often half that of the whites.
- Beaune & Savigny-Les-Beaune punched above their perceived weight.
- We’ll have to wait until we see some gear in the glass!
Burghound on the 2020 Vintage
During my visits to about 250 producers in the Côte d’Or this past fall and winter, the mood among the predominantly white wine producers was consistently upbeat. The quality was excellent plus they were thrilled to have actually produced a mostly full complement of wines after having been forced to combine some wines in 2019 and which will almost certainly be yet more severe in 2021 … the growers were also very pleasantly surprised that such a hot and dry vintage could produce such exuberantly fresh and tension-filled wines…
As to the wines 2020 produced, there was once again a lot of head-scratching …. No one, at least no one that I spoke with, seems to understand how a blazing hot and exceeding dry growing season produced such beautiful, and beautifully fresh and vibrant, wines. To be sure, they are clearly ripe, yet despite having only average acid levels, the pHs are pretty much textbook and even somewhat lower than in 2019 and noticeably lower than in 2018. Their moderately firm tannic spines coupled with good acid levels provide the framework to allow the wines to be highly energetic, wonderfully refreshing and delineated. Moreover, and most importantly, the high heat did little to efface the transparency of the underlying terroir….
Whatever the explanation, when taken as a whole, there really isn’t much to bemoan in 2020, particularly since wine quality is at a minimum very good to excellent, other than the inescapable fact that quantities are down 30 to 50% compared to a normal crop. This, coming after a 2019 crop that was down roughly 20 to 40% coupled with even lower yields in 2021 won’t help ease the world’s seemingly unquenchable thirst for fine Burgundy.
Côte d’Or
Domaine Bruno COLIN Arriving October ☝︎ Index
Michel Colin was the third generation in his family to grow grapes in Burgund’s prestigious Côte de Beaune. When he retired in 2003, he handed the property over to his sons, Philippe and Bruno, who split the holdings between them to bottle under separate labels. With the help of his wife, Stéphanie, Bruno farms eight hectares of land, in thirty different parcels scattered over five communes, with sometimes as little as just a few rows per parcel. To farm under these circumstances is quintessentially Burgundian, where the old Napoleonic codes of inheritance (evolved from Roman law) divide property equally among offspring. Parcels farmed by any one family continue to get smaller and smaller as they are distributed among relatives.
The 2020 Vintage at Domaine Marc Colin
From Burghound
This year I did the tasting with Caroline Colin, Damien’s sister, who noted that the 2020 vintage was “our earliest ever as the season began early and the growing season was hot and dry, so we began picking on the 22nd of August. The fruit was as clean as it has ever been for us with essentially normal yields in white if slightly lower yields in red. Despite the hot and dry conditions, the wines are surprisingly fresh and bright with good acidities and excellent balance.” I would note that the Colin reds are expressly made to enjoy young (for example, there are no punch downs) and in that context the quality of the domaine’s 2020s are consistent with that goal. They were bottled in December 2021 under the Diam brand composite cork without fining or filtration.
WHITE
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET $162
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET “Les Chaumees” Premier Cru $227
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET “Les Chenevottes” Premier Cru $227
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET “Les Vergers” Premier Cru $231
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET “La Maltroie” Premier Cru $231
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET “Morgeot” Premier Cru $237
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET “Boudriotte” Premier Cru $237
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET “En Remilly” Premier Cru $283
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET “Blanchot Dessus” Premier Cru $387
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET “La Truffiere” Premier Cru $362
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET “La Truffiere” Premier Cru MAGNUM $782
RED
SANTENAY “Vieilles Vignes” Rouge $102
WHITE REVIEWS
Issue 87 – Allen Meadows’ Burghound – Domaine Bruno Colin (Chassagne-Montrachet)
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET: A completely different and less elegant nose more freely offers up its aromas of rosemary oil, petrol and various white fleshed fruit. There is fine mid-palate density and plenty of verve to the medium-bodied flavors that possess a certain muscularity before terminating in a very dry and not especially austere finish. This is a quality Chassagne villages built for mid-term keeping and worth considering. 89/2026+
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET “Les Chaumees”: A slightly more elegant nose easily reveals its aromas of white peach, lychee and more discreet petrol wisps. The intense and nicely detailed middle weight flavors are supported by a prominent citrus-tinged acidity on the moderately austere and more tightly wound finish. This too could use better depth and more should develop if given half a chance. 90/2027+
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET “Les Chenevottes”: (from Chenevottes proper). A discreet though perceptible dollop of wood sets off the ripe and vaguely exotic aromas of passion fruit and white peach where background floral hints add a touch of elegance. The delicious, intense and solidly concentrated middle weight flavors possess an abundance of sappy dry extract that easily buffers the moderately firm acid spine shaping the sneaky long and very dry finish. This too would benefit from at least a few years of forbearance. 92/2027+
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET “Les Vergers”: (from Les Pasquelles). A ripe, fresh and highly expressive nose also easily reveals its combination of citrus zest, apple, pear and pretty floral nuances. There is more volume and mid-palate density to the medium weight flavors that possess both better depth and excellent persistence on the balanced finale. This well-made effort appears to possess fine development potential and is a wine that will need at least a few years of patience. 92/2027+
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET “La Maltroie”: (from Ez Crets). Here too there is just enough wood in evidence to mention setting off the equally vaguely exotic aromas of citrus confit, white and yellow peach and subtle spice nuances. There is very fine volume to the medium weight flavors that possess solid intensity, partially thanks to the very lemony acidity supporting the lingering finish that isn’t quite as complex and a bit less tightly wound. With that said, this is certainly pretty. 91/2026+
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET “Morgeot”: (from Francemont). Smoky aromas include those of petrol, pear essence and a whiff of the exotic, in particular white peach. The medium-bodied flavors are not quite as dense though they retain evident power and fine punch on the borderline rustic, long and youthfully austere finale. This won’t win any awards for refinement but then again, one doesn’t buy Morgeot for elegance. 91/2027+
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET “Boudriotte”: (from Champ Jendreau). This is the first wine to display any appreciable reduction and in this case it’s enough to overshadow the underlying fruit. The caressing and delicious middle weight plus flavors display excellent punch on the overtly citrus-inflected finale that is somewhat attenuated today though I suspect that it will eventually flesh out and my rating offers the benefit of the doubt. 89/2028+
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET “En Remilly”: (from a .46 ha parcel of 50+ year old vines). There is enough wood surrounding the ripe and fresh white orchard fruit, floral and discreet spice nuances to merit pointing out. The more refined, if not necessarily more intense, medium weight flavors are definitely more mineral-driven on the moderately dry and lightly austere finale that delivers both fine depth and persistence as well as notably better balance. 92/2028+
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET “Blanchot Dessus”: As is usually the case with a typical example of Blanchot Dessus, the nose is markedly floral in character with its aromas of essence of white orchard fruit, citrus and a hint of passion fruit. The intense and muscular broad-shouldered flavors display the innate power of the vineyard along with excellent length on the compact, moderately austere and tightly wound finale that goes on and on. Along with the Truffières, this is the usually the best premier cru in the Colin stable and so it is again in 2020. In a word, excellent. 93/2030+
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET “La Truffiere”: (from 2 parcels of vines, one of which is 40+ years old and the other is still relatively young). The 2020 Puligny-Montrachet La Truffière 1er Cru is tight and crisp on the nose: Granny Smiths, Conference pear and light crushed stony aromas. The palate is well balanced with fine acidity, taut and fresh, tapering slightly towards the finish that just needs a little more complexity and nuance. Fine overall though. (90-92)/2023-2033 Neal Martin
RED REVIEWS
Issue 86 – Allen Meadows’ Burghound – Domaine Bruno Colin (Chassagne-Montrachet)
2019 SANTENAY “Vieilles Vignes” Rouge: (from vines in Prarons Dessous planted in 1963). Distinctly earthy aromas of red pinot fruit leads to lighter weight flavors that exhibit a distinct bitterness on the short and slightly raspy finish. I don’t know whether the recent bottling upset the balance, but it would be fair to say that this was an odd showing. 85/now
Domaine Marc-Antonin BLAIN ☝︎ Index
Run by Marc-Antonin Blain, son of Jean-Marc and Claudine, the vineyard was handed to him by his Grandfather a year before his passing. Spanning 1.16 ha the Domaine is divded amongst four appellations including Batard Montrachet.
New oak barrels are never used to excess, being subtly spread amongst the different cuvées, so that spicy oakiness is never perceptible.
WHITE
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET Blanc $125
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET “Morgeot” Blanc Premier Cru $210
BATARD-MONTRACHET Grand Cru $654
RED
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET Rouge $89
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET “Morgeot” Premier Cru Rouge $154
Domaine BLAIN-GAGNARD ☝︎ Index
This is one of the finest white Burgundy estates, where the wine-making involves minimal interventions. It is run by Jean-Marc Blain and his wife Claudine, the daughter of Jacques Gagnard-Delagrange. The family owns some of the village’s greatest hillsides. New oak barrels are never used to excess, being subtly spread amongst the different cuvées, so that spicy oakiness is never perceptible here. Blain is also prudent with stirring-up of the lees (known as bâtonnage) which, if used to excess, may result in heavy wines which taste mealy. Here, on the contrary, the finished wines have great purity of fruit, with balanced acidity and long, clean flavours which clearly evoke the wines’ precise origins.
The 2020 Vintage at Domaine Blain-Gagnard
From Burghound
Just as he did for the last year, the shy and modest Jean-Marc Blain offered a mixed view of the 2020 vintage, observing that “it gave us excellent quality but unfortunately, quantities were lower than usual, even if it was a bit better than what we obtained in 2019. While it was variable, I would put our overall volume at about 75% of a normal crop with the reds coming in much lower than the whites. We picked from the 21st of August and brought in exceptionally clean fruit with very good sugar levels as the chardonnay was right at 13% and the reds a bit higher. We chose to do a very soft vinification for the reds, which given how thick the skins were was probably the right choice. As to the wines, I really like them and particularly how clearly the underlying terroirs express themselves.” Blain noted that the in-bottle reds were put there between December 2021 and February 2022 without fining or filtration. Lastly, fans of the domaine should note that there is no longer a Morgeot rouge as the parcel was gifted to Blain’s son Marc-Antoine. Blain further remarked that more and more of the domaine will progressively pass to his son.
WHITE
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET $130 HALF $65
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET $122 HALF $61
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET “Clos St Jean” Premier Cru Blanc $179 MAGNUM $370
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET “Boudriotte” Premier Cru $179 MAGNUM $370
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET “Morgeot” Premier Cru $179 MAGNUM $370
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET “Caillerets” Premier Cru $204 MAGNUM $410
CRIOTS-BATARD-MONTRACHET Grand Cru $640 MAGNUM Grand Cru $1,380
BATARD-MONTRACHET Grand Cru $640 MAGNUM $1,380
Le MONTRACHET Grand Cru $1,620 Le MONTRACHET MAGNUM Grand Cru $3,225
RED
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET “Clos St Jean” Premier Cru Rouge $121
VOLNAY “Pitures” Premier Cru $135
VOLNAY “Champans” Premier Cru $157
WHITE REVIEWS
Issue 87 – Allen Meadows’ Burghound – Domaine Blain-Gagnard (Chassagne-Montrachet)
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET: (from La Rue au Vache). A slightly more elegant nose reflects notes of acacia blossom, anise and essence of pear. There is again fine volume to the caressing medium weight flavors that display focused power on the better balanced if less complex finale. 88/2026+
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET: (from a mix of ~30% young vine 1ers and villages fruit). A subtle note of petrol can be found on the super-fresh aromas of mostly white orchard fruit and resin. There is fine density and plenty of punch to the delicious middle weight flavors that are supported by a moderately firm grapefruit-tinged acid spine on the moderately rustic finale. 88/2026+
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET “Boudriotte”: (from Fairendes). Nuances of smoky reduction don’t completely mask the aromas of pear essence though even so, I would suggest a quick aeration that it would be beneficial. There is better volume if a bit less refinement to the medium-bodied flavors that deliver excellent length on the clean, dry and delicious finale. This is a wine that needs at least a few years to settle down and better harmonize though once it does, it should be lovely. 91/2027+
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET “Morgeot”: (from Les Boirettes and Champ Jendreau). Pretty, and distinctly floral-suffused aromas include those of citrus rind and white fleshed fruit. The very rich and generously proportioned middle weight flavors possess plenty of sappy dry extract before terminating in a powerful and borderline tannic bitter lemon-inflected finish. This would also benefit from at least a few years of keeping. 91/2027+
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET “Caillerets”: (from Vigne Derrière). A more elegant if vaguely exotic nose features notes of white peach, spice and lemon confit. The rich and relatively full-bodied flavors display good muscle and power on the stony, chalky and sneaky long finish. Note that this lovely effort is sufficiently tightly wound to require at least 5 years of keeping and should reward up to a decade of it. 92/2028+
CRIOTS-BATARD-MONTRACHET: (from 3 separate parcels that aggregate only .2 ha). This is relatively firmly reduced so if you’re tempted to try a bottle young, be sure to give it some air first. Otherwise, there is good power and underlying tension to the medium weight plus flavors that retain solid delineation on the impressively long finish. This will need to add depth with time in bottle, but the material is present for that to occur. 93/2028+
BATARD-MONTRACHET: Ripe but not really exotic aromas are comprised by notes of both white and yellow fruit, herbal tea, just sliced citrus and a hint of lemon zest. The sleeker and bigger-bodied flavors pack plenty of punch and power on the more complex if decidedly compact and very tightly wound finale. As one would reasonably expect, this is a wine that will definitely need at least 5 to 7 years of cellaring before it will begin to be approachable. Excellent. 94/2030+
MONTRACHET: (Blain produces 1 to 2 barrels annually from the Chassagne side). A wonderfully spicy and beautifully layered nose offers up notes of citrus confit, acacia blossom, anise, jasmine tea and an interesting hint of clove. Much like the Bâtard, the mouthfeel of the broad-shouldered flavors is sleek and intense with impressive reserves of sap buffering the hugely long finish. Like several of the wines in the range, this will need to add depth with time in bottle, but the Blain Montrachet has a fine track record in that regard. 95/2032+
RED REVIEWS
Issue 86 – Allen Meadows’ Burghound – Domaine Blain-Gagnard (Chassagne-Montrachet)
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET “Clos St Jean” Rouge: Hints of menthol and violet sit atop an otherwise similar nose. There is by contrast a more elegant mouthfeel to the rich and appealingly textured medium-bodied flavors that are at once caressing but punchy, all wrapped in a suave, delicious and already complex finale. This should be approachable young if that’s your preference. 90/2026+
VOLNAY “Pitures”: (from Chanlins). Opaque. Very ripe aromas of cassis and black cherry liqueur can be found on the expressive and fresh nose. In keeping with the nose, the mouthfeel of the medium weight flavors is opulent but punchy with an almost thick texture on the palate drenching, youthfully austere and bitter pit fruit-inflected finish. This is a big and chewy wine that will likely require most of a decade to arrive at its peak. 90/2028+
VOLNAY “Champans”: Also opaque. This is also quite ripe yet remarkably fresh with its liqueur-like aromas of black raspberry, spice and discreet wood influence. The dense, thick and opulent medium weight plus flavors coat the palate with dry extract while displaying excellent vibrancy on the powerful but refined finish. This is more elegant than the Pitures and while it’s definitely an atypical Champans, it’s quite good all the same. 91/2028+
Domaine BOUCHARD Pere et Fils ☝︎ Index
Renowned and respected as one of the finest producers in Burgundy, Bouchard Père et Fils has truly become an institution, known for the exceptional quality of their wines and the diversity of its many vineyards.
Founded in 1731, Bouchard Père et Fils has built up an estate of 130ha and, collectively, is the largest owner of Grand Crus (12ha) and Premier Crus (74ha) across the Côte d’Or Bouchard Père et Fils represents almost one hundred ‘climats’ or uniquely diverse vineyards, including prestigious monopoles such as ‘Beaune Grèves Vigne de l’Enfant Jésus’ and ‘Chevalier-Montrachet La Cabotte’.
In 1820 Bernard Bouchard purchased the Château de Beaune, a former royal fortress built in the 15th century by King Louis XI.
Four of the five original towers of the fortress, as well as parts of the ramparts, still stand today, and have featured on the list of historic monuments since 1937.
The cellars run deep underground beneath the property providing ideal natural storage conditions for Bouchard Père & Fils’ fine wines.
Up to 10 metres deep, the wines develop and age undisturbed. These include a unique collection of over 2,000 bottles from the 19thcentury. A priceless historical legacy with, as its icon, the oldest wine – a Meursault Charmes 1846 which still retains its luster.
Over time, by acquiring various terroirs with great care and patience, Bouchard Père & Fils has built up the biggest domaine in the Côte d’Or. Today the estate boasts 130 hectares of vines, of which 12 are classed Grand Cru and 74 classed as Premier Cru.
The 2020 Vintage at Domaine BOUCHARD Pere et Fils
From Burghound
Winemaker Frédéric Weber is always a wealth of detail regarding the intricacies of the growing season and regarding the 2020 vintage, he explained that “bud break began super-early, which is to say on the 14th of April, which in all the years that I have been doing this I have never seen before. We did suffer some shatter after the flowering in chardonnay but not really in pinot. The summer was extremely hot and very, very dry and the signs of hydric stress were everywhere, in fact we started to see stem lignification by the end of July! There was, happily, not much disease pressure and véraison, which was disparate, was largely finished in most vineyards by the end of July as well. Remarkably, for the season as a whole, it was fully 1.7° C warmer than the long-term average, with about 200 ml less rainfall than average. While it’s true that the north wind helped keep the nighttime temperatures cool, it had the associated negative effect of constantly drying everything out. Ultimately, we chose to begin picking the pinot on the 19th of August and the chardonnay on the 25th. There was a lot of sorting required to eliminate either wilted or sunburned fruit. There was evidence of the heat stress in the fruit because while there were excellent sugar maturities, and the stems were mostly lignified but the seeds were still mostly green and super-tannic. Between the less than completely ripe seeds and the ultra-thick skins, we vinified quite softly. Moreover, we had to resist the temptation to extract more as many fermentations began almost immediately followed by a 12-to-15-day cuvaison. Yields for the pinot were in the 25 to 28 hl/ha range with a normal number of berries but with lots of shot berries and not much juice in them. This made for very high solid to liquid ratios, which is another reason why we chose to vinify cautiously. Yields were much better for the chardonnay though by no means high as they averaged 38 hl/ha, which is about normal for us. Potential alcohols were actually pretty reasonable considering the high warmth of the season as the pinot came in between 13 and 13.5% while the chardonnay was slightly higher at between 13.5 to 13.7%. The malos finished very early, in fact basically most wines were done by the end of November. Because there wasn’t much potassium in the fruit, the tartaric acid didn’t precipitate so we finished with excellent pHs when it would have been more intuitive to expect higher pHs given the growing season heat. This is to say that the reds averaged about 3.5, though interestingly, the Côte de Nuits was higher at 3.6 while the Côte de Beaune was more in the 3.4 to 3.5 range. To me these numbers are reflective of the fact that the Côte de Beaune suffered more hydric stress than the northern Côte and within the Côte de Beaune, Volnay and Beaune really baked. Moreover, the Côte de Nuits benefited from a bit more rainfall so overall, there was less hydric stress. The whites had classic pHs at between 3.2 and 3.25 and I firmly believe that 2020 is genuinely great vintage in white that reminds me of 2008 or 2014. As to the reds, they are still changing for the better and it’s not an accident that we have bottled very few wines to this point and we very likely won’t start until April and I expect to finish in June.”
WHITE
BEAUNE du CHATEAU Premier Cru Blanc $112
BEAUNE “Clos Saint-Landry” Premier Cru $202
MEURSAULT “Les Clous” $147
MEURSAULT “Genevrieres” Premier Cru $247 MAGNUM $573
MEURSAULT “Perrieres” Premier Cru $277 MAGNUM $638
PULIGNY-MONTACHET $185>
PULIGNY-MONTACHETT “Les Chalumaux” Premier Cru $267
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET $156
CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET “Morgeot” Premier Cru $267
SAINT-AUBIN $115
CORTON-CHARLEMAGNE Grand Cru $567 MAGNUM $1275
CHEVALIER-MONTRACHET Grand Cru $1,230 MAGNUM $2,715
CHEVALIER-MONTRACHET “La Cabotte” Grand Cru MAG ONLY $3,680
MONTRACHET Grand Cru $2,520 MAGNUM $5,560
RED
BEAUNE du CHATEAU Premier Cru Rouge $112
BEAUNE “Les Teurons” Premier Cru $149
BEAUNE “Les Marconnets” Premier Cru $144
BEAUNE “Clos de la Mousse” Premier Cru $202
BEAUNE-GREVES “Vigne l’Enfant Jesus” Premier Cru $383 MAGNUM $871
GEVREY_CHAMBERTIN “Les Cazetiers” Premier Cru $375
MONTHELIE “Les Duresses” Premier Cru $103
MONTHELIE “Clos les Champs Fulliot” Premier Cru $110
POMMARD “Les Rugiens” Premier Cru $243
VOLNAY “Taille Pieds” Premier Cru $195
VOLNAY “Clos du Chenes” Premier Cru $200
VOLNAY “Les Caillerets Ancienne Cuvee Carnot” Premier Cru $230 MAGNUM $531
ECHEZEAUX “Les Rouges du Bas” Grand Cru $792
ECHEZEAUX “En Orveaux” Grand Cru $865
Le CORTON Grand Cru $393 MAGNUM $893
CLOS de VOUGEOT Grand Cru $742
CHAMBERTIN Grand Cru $1,230
CHAMBERTIN-CLOS de BEZE Grand Cru $1,252 MAGNUM $2,765
BONNES-MARES Grand Cru $1,130
WHITE REVIEWS
Issue 87 – Allen Meadows’ Burghound – Domaine Bouchard Pere et Fils (Meursault)
Scores by Neal Martin, Vinous denoted (NM)
BEAUNE du CHATEAU Blanc: (a blend of five 1ers totaling over 10 ha that include Tuvilains, Aigrots, Sur les Grèves Les Cras and Sizies). More prominent wood can be found on the ripe aromas poached plum, citrus and a similar note of apple compote. On the palate the medium-bodied flavors are also quite rich and generous with good underlying tension on the agreeably dry finish. (88-91)/2026+ NM (91-93)
BEAUNE “Clos Saint-Landry”: The 2020 Beaune 1er Cru Saint-Landry Blanc 1er Cru has lively lime cordial scented bouquet with touches of Clementine and a touch of saffron, quite playful. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, good weight with quite a bit of extract on the peachy finish. Probably more for early drinking. NM (88-90)/2023-2029
MEURSAULT “Les Clous”: (from a massive 8.6 ha parcel). Ripe aromas of hazelnut, pear and apple compote are trimmed in soft nuances of citrus and oak. There is excellent volume to the rich but vibrant medium weight flavors that exude evident minerality on the slightly more complex and youthfully austere finale that is noticeably firmer. This will need at least a couple of years. (88-90)/2026+
MEURSAULT “Charmes”: (from Charmes Dessous). There is a plenitude of citrus influences suffusing the equally floral nose of various white fleshed fruit and mineral reduction aromas. There is impressive intensity to the chiseled medium-bodied flavors that conclude in a compact, linear and austere finale. This is potentially outstanding but note well that this will absolutely require at least half a dozen years of patience and reward a decade plus of it. (91-93)/2029+ NM (93-95)
MEURSAULT “Genevrieres”: (from an incredible 2.7 ha holding which makes Bouchard the largest owner). A ripe and naturally exotic nose features notes of Asian-style tea, anise, white peach and a whiff of fennel. The relatively generously proportioned medium weight flavors exude a subtle bead of minerality on the very dry and youthfully austere finish that also possesses a touch of bitter citrus character. Lovely juice and this is really quite classy. (91-93)/2028+ NM (91-93)
MEURSAULT “Perrieres”: (from 3 separate parcels). An elegant, airy and cool nose reflects notes of mineral reduction, citrus confit, apple and anise wisps. The racy, intense and overtly mineral-driven flavors are not quite as dense, but they do offer excellent length on the slightly firmer and more austere finale. This is going to need a few years to flesh out as it’s presently quite compact and tightly wound. (91-93)/2030+
CORTON-CHARLEMAGNE: (from a huge 3.65 ha plot in Le Corton). Discreet though easily perceptible wood influence is present on the aromas of green apple, lemon-lime, clove and a less obvious touch of mineral reduction. There is impressive mid-palate density to the bigger-bodied and more powerful flavors that also exude evident minerality on the very dry, balanced and moderately austere finale. While this too could use more depth, the potential aging curve of this wine is sufficiently extended that more complexity is almost a certainty. (91-94)/2030+ NM (91-93)
CHEVALIER-MONTRACHET: from a 2.54 ha parcel including La Cabotte). Cool, pure and elegant aromas are comprised by notes of essence of green apple, a panoply of spice elements, mineral reduction and plenty of citrus nuances, all of which is trimmed in just enough wood to mention. The very rich, full-bodied and markedly powerful flavors coat the palate with dry extract while the firm acid spine preserves the excellent delineation on the austere and intense citrusy finale. This too would benefit from having better depth but that should reasonably occur with a few years of bottle aging. (92-94)/2030+ NM (94-96)
CHEVALIER-MONTRACHET “La Cabotte”: (Bouchard has been separately vinifying this .21 ha parcel, which at one time was part of Montrachet, since 1992 though the first commercial release was not until 1997; Bouchard jokingly refers to this parcel as their “Montrachet du haute pente”, or upper slope Montrachet). Not surprisingly, this is aromatically quite similar to the regular cuvée though here the wood treatment is a bit more prominent, indeed it is also present on the palate of the bigger, rich and borderline opulent flavors that possess even better density before culminating in a hugely long finish where the only nit is a touch of warmth. Again, this could use better depth but that should reasonably occur here as well. (92-95)/2030+ NM (95-97)
MONTRACHET: There is a touch of phenolic character to the markedly floralsuffused aromas of poached apple, pear, white peach, exotic tea and fennel. There is again excellent volume and mid-palate density to the caressing but impressively powerful big-bodied flavors that retain superb focused on the bone-dry, moderately austere and hugely long finish. Once again, more depth would be a plus, but more is almost certain to develop if this is allowed 5+ years of keeping. (94-97)/2032+ NM (93-95)
RED REVIEWS
Issue 86 – Allen Meadows’ Burghound – Domaine Bouchard Pere et Fils (Meursault)
Scores by Neal Martin, Vinous denoted (NM)
BEAUNE du CHATEAU Rouge: (the first vintage for this wine was in 1907 and the heart of it is composed by Les Aigrots though there are as many as 16 other 1ers included, that comprise a whopping 26 ha, depending on the vintage; in 2019 there were a total of 17 1ers). There is touch of mocha to the mostly purple fruit and warm earth scented nose. The almost lavishly rich and opulent middle weight flavors possess a suave and round flavors that, somewhat curiously given the richness, concludes in a youthfully austere finale. (89-91)/2027+
BEAUNE “Les Marconnets”: (from a 2.3 ha holding). Bright, fresh and ripe black pinot fruit aromas are suffused with cool earth and subtle spice wisps. The sleek and more intense medium weight flavors exude evident minerality while delivering fine length on the youthfully austere, chiseled and sneaky long finale. (89-92)/2028+
BEAUNE “Clos de la Mousse”: (a 3.37 ha monopole of Bouchard that required 7 generations for the family to acquire all of it). Pretty and cool yet definitely ripe aromas reveal notes of various dark berries, violet and rose petal. The suave and seductively textured medium weight flavors possess very fine density while the youthfully austere and moderately firm finish makes clear that this will need at least a few years of bottle aging first. (90-92)/2028+
BEAUNE “Teurons”: (from a 1.7 ha parcel). A more deeply pitched nose features notes of poached plum, cassis and dark cherry. The appealingly textured middle weight flavors possess a refined mouthfeel thanks to the fine-grained tannins shaping the balanced, long and nicely complex finale. Note that this is sufficiently structured to reward a decade of keeping yet the midpalate is supple enough to allow this to be approached on the younger side. (90-92)/2030+
BEAUNE-GREVES “Vigne l’Enfant Jesus”: (from a 4-ha parcel). This one of the more floral-suffused wines in the range with its hints of violet, rose petal and lavender that add touch of elegance to the very ripe poached plum scents that presently lack a bit of freshness. There is verve and freshness on the palate of the dense, voluminous and punchy flavors that coat the palate with dry extract that also serves to buffer the firm tannins shaping the powerful, serious and mildly warm finale. Note that my predicted range offers the benefit of the doubt that the nose will recover better freshness. (90-93)/2032+
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN “Les Cazetiers”: (from a .30 ha holding). A cooler and slightly less ripe nose features notes of pretty red cherry, raspberry, pungent earth and a hint of spice. There is again very good underlying tension and delineation to the mineral-driven flavors that possess a muscular yet refined texture while delivering excellent length on the notably firm finale. This is somewhat less 2020 in style. (91-93)/2032+
MONTHELIE “Les Duresses”: Very earthy and sauvage-inflected aromas of dark cherry and soft wood lead to round and fleshy but punchy middle weight flavors possess very good richness while culminating in a dusty, even chalky finish that exhibits a touch of youthful austerity. (88-90)/2027+
POMMARD “Les Rugiens”: (from Rugiens Haut). A fresher mix is comprised by notes of both red and black cherry, dark raspberry, earth and a violet top note. There is fine volume and intensity to the bigger-bodied flavors that flash good minerality on the firm, powerful and focused finale. This could use better depth, but more should develop in time. (89-92)/2030+
VOLNAY “Taille Pieds”: Enough wood to notice surrounds the equally ripe aromas of mocha, black raspberry and spicy poached plum. The super-sleek, dense and wonderfully energetic medium-bodied flavors brim with both minerality and dry extract that helps to buffer the firm tannins shaping the youthfully austere, chiseled and sneaky long finish. (90-93)/2032+
VOLNAY “Clos du Chenes”: (from a .80 ha parcel in the lower section of the vineyard). A ripe, airy and cool mix consists mainly of red and dark raspberry, anise and an equally pretty mix of floral elements. There is both excellent volume and vibrancy to the sappy, powerful and muscular larger-scaled flavors that brim with minerality on the serious, long and built-to-age finale. Patience absolutely recommended. (90-93)/2032+
VOLNAY CAILLERETS “Ancienne Cuvee Carnot“: Very ripe liqueur-like aromas of various black berries are nuanced by plenty of spice and floral elements. There is excellent underlying tension to the beautifully textured medium weight flavors that also brim with sappy dry extract and minerality, all wrapped in a bitter pit fruit finale that offers impressive persistence. This is definitely atypical but the intrinsic class of a fine Caillerets is still present. (91-93)/2032+
ECHEZEAUX “En Orveaux”: (from domaine-owned vines in En Orveaux; like the Clos de Vougeot there are normally two cuvées, one domaine and one négociant). Spicy liqueur-like aromas speak mostly of various dark berries, in particular raspberry, along with hints of sandalwood and exotic tea. The fleshy, generously proportioned and seductive medium-bodied flavors conclude in a lingering if youthfully austere finale. This is really quite pretty and a wine that should repay extended aging. (91-93)/2032+
Le CORTON: Ripe aromas of red and dark currant, earth and a hint of the sauvage give way to dense, powerful and quite serious broad-shouldered flavors that terminate in an austere but not really rustic finale that flashes excellent minerality and length. This muscular and very much built-to-age effort will need at least a decade of cellaring to unwind. (91-94)/2035+
CLOS de VOUGEOT: (from domaine-owned fruit in two similarly sized parcels – one at the top in Les Plantes Labet and the other at the bottom of the slope though the bottom was recently pulled up; note that there are often two cuvées). A more floralsuffused nose freely offers up an array of rose petal, violet and lavender that add a touch of elegance to the earthy red and dark pinot fruit scents. There is an interesting mouthfeel that is at once caressing but powerful with notably better mid-palate density and fine length. This markedly structured effort is very promising. (91-94)/2035+
CHAMBERTIN: (from a .15 ha parcel on the southern end near the top just under the tree line). A very ripe yet still reasonably fresh nose combines notes of liqueur-like red and dark berries, discreet floral and just slice fennel hints. There is exceptionally good density to the opulent, indeed almost thick, flavors that deliver reasonably good length if more limited depth on the slightly awkward finish. This should eventually harmonize but it will need at least a few years of cellaring to do so. (91-94)/2035+
CHAMBERTIN-CLOS de BEZE: (from purchased grapes). Moderately generous wood and menthol fight somewhat with the exuberantly spicy black cherry liqueur-like aromas that are cut with lovely floral wisps. There is excellent concentration to the bigger-bodied and more powerful flavors that are blessed with ample amounts of sappy dry extract that does a fine job of buffering the firm tannic spine shaping the complex, balanced and hugely long finale. Excellent. (93-95)/2035+
BONNES-MARES: (from a .24 ha mix of two-thirds terres rouges and one-third terres blanches). Here too the nose is overtly floral in character with its layered blend of red and dark raspberry, warm earth and discreet spice wisps. There is again very fine mid-palate density to the slightly bigger-bodied tension-filled flavors that flash evident muscle and power on the moderately austere, firmly structured and impressively long finish. Patience strongly advised. (91-94)/2035+
Domaine Pousse d’Or ☝︎ Index
Since the end of the last century, Patrick Landanger has been the owner of the Domaine. He made significant investments in the vineyards as well as in the winemaking facilities and cellars.
He has been joined by his son, Benoit, who has been helping him with the winemaking as from 2013. Their ambitions on quality are reflected in the deep respect of the terroirs they run. The biodynamic certification will complete this choice.
The 2020 Vintage at Domaine de la Pousse d’Or
From Burghound
Benoît Landanger, who has assumed the direction of this domaine and has converted it to biodynamic farming principles, briefly noted that “like 2019, we were again blessed with excellent raw materials as the fruit was ripe, clean and remarkably well-balanced between sugar, acid and tannin levels. We picked from the 25th of August and brought in low-ish yields of 25 to 30 hl/ha that were still better than the 20 to 25 hl/ha that we realized in 2019. Potential alcohols were reasonable as they ranged from 13.2 to 13.5%, which is slightly lower than what we obtained last year. The vinifications were easy and overall, I’m very happy with the quality as well as the aging potential. In fact, 2020 is vintage that I would gladly take anytime with the sole proviso of having a bit more volume!” Once again, I had a chance to taste three wines that were vinified exactly the same as the regular cuvées but were raised in amphora; this is to say the En Caillerets, Clos de la Bousse d’Or and the Clos des 60 Ouvrées vineyards. I note these using the term amphore in the reviews, but the actual terminology found on the label reads “Vinifié et Élevé en Amphore”.
WHITE
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET “Clos le Cailleret” Premier Cru $300
CHEVALIER-MONTRACHET Grand Cru $1,475
RED
2020 GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN “La Perriere” $287
2020 SANTENAY “Clos Tavannes” 375ml $81 750ml $152
VOLNAY “En Caillerets” Premier Cru $206
VOLNAY “Clos d’Audignac” (Monopole) Premier Cru $238
VOLNAY “Clos de la Bousse d’Or” (Monopole) Premier Cru 750ml $243 MAGNUM $516
VOLNAY “Clos de la Bousse d’Or – Amphore” (Monopole) Premier Cru $263
VOLNAY “Clos des 60 Ouvrées” (Monopole) Premier Cru 750ml $251 MAGNUM $528
VOLNAY “Clos des 60 Ouvrées – Amphore” (Monopole) Premier Cru $269
CORTON “Clos du Roi” Grand Cru 750ml $290 MAGNUM $612
CORTON “Les Bressandes” Grand Cru $279
CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY 375ml $104 750ml $197
CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY “Les Feusselottes” Premier Cru $325
CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY “Les Grosseilles” Premier Cru 750ml $325 MAGNUM $684
CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY “Les Charmes” Premier Cru 750ml $430 MAGNUM $888
CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY “Les Amoureuses” Premier Cru 750ml $915 MAGNUM $1,850
BONNES-MARES Grand Cru $925
CLOS DE LA ROCHE Grand Cru $925
WHITE REVIEWS
Issue 87 – Allen Meadows’ Burghound – Domaine de la Pousse d’Or (Volnay)
PULIGNY-MONTRACHET “Clos le Cailleret”: (from a .70 ha parcel; raised in 350-liter barrels). Pure and decidedly cool aromas are comprised by notes of smoked green apple, lemon rind and a plethora of floral nuances, and in particular acacia blossom. I very much like the textured of the voluminous, sappy and intensely mineral-driven middle weight flavors that terminate in a clean, very dry and youthfully austere finale. This attractively persistent effort could use better depth, but it will almost certainly develop more if allowed a few years of bottle aging first. (91-93)/2027+
CHEVALIER-MONTRACHET: (from a .125 ha parcel). The perfumed, cool and airy nose features notes of anise, spicy white peach, passion fruit and an equally broad range of floral elements. There is excellent punch to the beautifully delineated fullbodied flavors that also culminate in a very dry, youthfully austere and lingering finish. This too could use better depth but there is no reason that more shouldn’t develop provided it’s allowed a few years of keeping. (91-94)/2028+
RED REVIEWS
Issue 86 – Allen Meadows’ Burghound – Domaine de la Pousse d’Or (Volnay)
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN “La Perriere”: (from a leased .25 ha parcel). A decidedly earthier and more sauvage-inflected nose reflects very fresh notes of poached plum and wild dark cherries. The delicious, vibrant and attractively textured flavors are on the lighter side though I quite like the firm but fine-grained tannins supporting the nicely long finale. (89-92)/2028+
SANTENAY “Clos Tavannes”: This is the first wine to display any appreciable reduction and here it’s enough to overshadow the underlying fruit. The delicious and vibrant lighter weight flavors also possess an appealing texture before concluding in a detailed and lightly stony finish where the only reproach is a touch of warmth. (89-91)/2028+
VOLNAY “En Caillerets”: A wonderfully spicy nose offers up its aromas of both red and dark raspberry, violet and soft floral nuances. There is once again a lovely texture along with fine detail to the more refined middle weight flavors that deliver very good persistence on the youthfully austere and slightly grippy finale. (89-92)/2030+
VOLNAY “Clos d’Audignac” (Monopole): (a northeast facing vineyard that rarely gets the same degree of sunlight as the other Volnay 1ers in the portfolio and thus it can often be more Pommard than Volnay in character). Here the expressive nose is more elegant than it usually is with its pretty extract of black pinot fruit, soft earth, violet and rose petal scents. The lilting but impressively punchy medium-bodied flavors retain excellent delineation on the moderately austere, muscular and solidly persistent finish. This should amply repay 10 to 12 years of cellaring. (90-92)/2030+
VOLNAY “Clos de la Bousse d’Or” (Monopole): The pure, super-elegant and airy nose displays its array of plum, red and dark currant, spice and pretty floral wisps. The notably finer if less powerful and muscular middle weight flavors also possess both lovely detail and punch, all wrapped in youthfully austere, balanced and highly persistent finish. Lovely. (90-93)/2030+
VOLNAY “Clos de la Bousse d’Or – Amphore” (Monopole): This is also aromatically cool but ripe and spicy though in this case the red and dark raspberry scents are notably more floral in character. The delicious, intense and well-detailed lighter weight flavors possess a succulent mid-palate that contrasts with the moderately austere and quite firm finale where a touch of sweetness gradually emerges. (90-92)/2030+
VOLNAY “Clos des 60 Ouvrées” (Monopole): A spicy and relatively high-toned nose features notes of various red berries, plum and a hint of exotic tea. Once again there is a really lovely texture to the nicely tension-filled medium weight flavors that exude evident minerality on the curiously slightly sweet and mildly warm finale. This may better harmonize with a few years of bottle age but at present it’s a bit awkward. (89-91)/2028+
VOLNAY “Clos des 60 Ouvrées – Amphore” (Monopole): Decidedly cool, pure and wafting aromas of red and dark pinot fruit are exuberantly spicy and beautifully elegant while displaying lovely layering. The round and utterly delicious medium weight flavors possess a bit more volume while retaining the same exquisite texture on the even longer and impeccably well-balanced finale. Good stuff. (91-93)/2032+
CORTON “Clos du Roi”: This is aromatically similar to the Bressandes but with sightly more evident sauvage elements. The equally sleek if not quite as dense medium weight flavors that possess a bit more minerality on the youthfully austere, sneaky long and well-balanced finale. This could also use better depth, but more should easily develop if given time. (91-93)/2032+
CORTON “Les Bressandes”: (from a .5 ha parcel). This is also extremely pretty aromatically with its combination of poached plum, black cherry, game, smoke and freshly turned earth. There is excellent detail to the sleek, intense and equally muscular flavors that possess a bit more overall size and weight while exhibiting excellent length on the balanced finale. This does need to develop better depth, but more should almost certainly arise with time in bottle. (90-93)/2032+
CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY: (from parcels totaling 1.41 ha). Bright ruby. The fresh, cool and expressive nose blends notes of spice, lavender and various ripe red berries. There is fine density to the delicious middle weight flavors that deliver fine persistence on the somewhat grippy finale. This will need at least a few years to round out. (87-89)/2026+
CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY “Les Feusselottes”: (from a .42 ha parcel). A slightly more elegant nose features notes of poached plum, black raspberry, violet and anise hints. There is a notably finer mouthfeel to the attractively textured medium weight flavors that conclude in a firmer and better-balanced finale where a touch of austerity slowly emerges. (89-92)/2028+
CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY “Les Grosseilles”: (from a .52 ha parcel). A subtle application of wood is present on the slightly more deeply pitched nose of cassis, black raspberry liqueur and exotic tea scents. The sleek, intense and more precise mediumbodied flavors exude a subtle minerality on the balanced and sneaky long finish that is sufficiently firm to repay at least a decade worth of keeping. (90-93)/2030+
CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY “Les Charmes”: (from a .19 ha parcel). Ripe and appealingly fresh aromas of red and dark cherry coulis enjoy top notes of various spices and violet. The super-sleek, intense and beautifully well-detailed middle weight flavors deliver very fine length on the dusty, even slightly chalky finale that also reveals a touch of youthful austerity. (91-93)/2030+
CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY “Les Amoureuses”: (from a .20 ha parcel). A mentholated top note is present on the even spicier and slightly more floral-suffused aromas of airy dark berries, sandalwood and jasmine tea. The lacy, even lilting, flavors also exude a subtle bead of minerality on the nicely lingering if slightly drying finish. There was quite a bit of gas present, which always renders assessing the balance difficult so note that my range offers the benefit of the doubt. (90-92)/2030+
BONNES-MARES: (from a .17 ha parcel). Pretty if restrained aromas are comprised by notes of red and dark currant, newly turned earth, orange peel and a vague floral wisp. There is excellent detail and vibrancy to the delicious if not especially dense flavors that also possess a sophisticated texture, all wrapped in a youthfully austere, focused and powerful finale. This is quite firm and a wine that should easily be capable of reward 12 to 15 years of keeping. (91-94)/2032+
CLOS DE LA ROCHE: (from a .32 ha parcel). A perfumed and exceptionally pretty nose combines notes of dark raspberry, exotic tea and a broad range of floral elements. The succulent, refined and admirably punchy medium weight plus flavors possess excellent delineation and a taut muscularity that becomes more prominent on the saline and bitter pit fruit-suffused finale. This well-balanced and very promising effort that delivers first-rate length. (92-94)/2032+
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