White Wine

Chardonnay

Chardonnay has incredible versatility and can be picked over quite a wide range of sugar levels and flavour ripeness.

The variety takes its name from the village of Chardonnay near Uchizy in the Mâconnais, in southern Burgundy. A region gaining in reputation for the production of delicious Chardonnay. Thought to have originated from Sâone-et-Loire between Lyon and Dijon.

Where is it grown?

Burgundy is the mythical home of Chardonnay. From there it spreads far and wide across the world. One of the three main varieties of Champagne production, we also see massive plantings in Australia and North America. You’ll find it somewhere in pretty much every wine growing country.
In Australia 340,000 tonnes of Chardonnay grapes are harvested each year over four times more than the No.2 white grape in Australia, Sauvignon Blanc!

What does it taste like?

There are a vast array of flavours, aromas, and, textures that Chardonnay can offer from the fruit alone, add in use of solid, fermentation vessels like oak, eggs, and tanks, and, malolactic fermentation, the sky is the limit.

Chardonnay has incredible versatility and can be picked over quite a wide range of sugar levels and flavour ripeness. The same vineyard can be picked with enough sugar to make a wine of 10-11% alcohol for sparkling production and then 14% for table wine with anything in between possible. Picked earlier it tends to have more citrus and green apple characters. Picked ripper the natural acidity drops and the flavours progress through stone fruit, to pineapple, fig and melon.

The hand of the winemaker has been particularly evident in Australia over the last 20 years. Starting with big, broad, alcoholic full malo styles in the 1980’s and 1990’s, the pendulum swung to the lean, acid driven styles in Australia in the mid-00’s, with some down right mean wines produced in the cooler climates like the Yarra Valley, Adelaide Hills, Mornington, and, Tasmania.  Currently, styles have found balance with generosity and elegance. Australian Chardonnay is the best it has ever been. Restrained oak use is thankfully the norm, and, globally we are seeing greater use of larger oak barrels, reducing the influence of any new oak.

Use of wild fermentation, malolactic fermentation and grape solids in ferments can add an array of secondary aromas and flavours, nuttiness, creaminess, bakery notes, butteriness, funk.

Some makers have played heavily with reduction in Chardonnay often resulting in flinty, burnt match characters.

In Burgundy, climate change, just as in Australia (along with mature vineyards) has seen picking times bought forward with sugar levels maintaining. The degree of chaptalisation in Burgundy is reducing and is often not required at all.

Check out all the articles in the Wine Bites Mag exploring Chardonnay.

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A murger is a pile of stones or a wall made from rocks extracted from a vineyard’s soil. The vineyard name (roughly translating to “the wall of dog’s teeth”) evokes the fragmented, jagged stones that abound on the soil. It’s a rocky hillside vineyard that borders the 1er Cru Puligny vines of Champ Gain (not Folatières as suggested in Neal Martin’s note below) and sits above Montrachet, literally on the “Mont-Rachet”. Then again, such mapping can be deceptive; when you sta
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A distinctly cooler nose is comprised by notes of Granny Smith, spice, white flower and plenty of wet stone character. The rich and impressively scaled and concentrated big-bodied flavors exude an almost aggressive minerality on the clean, dry and markedly powerful finish. This beautifully long effort could use better depth but it has so much underlying material that more should almost certainly develop over time. Excellent. (from parcels of .28 ha in En Charlemagne and .22 ha in Le Charlemagne;
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This is the largest and most famous Grand Cru; its fame based on its history as one of Chablis’ first vineyards. The appellation enjoys a southerly aspect with very white, dense and deep clay soil, resting on a limestone bed 80 cm below the ground, which brings to the wine those spicy notes so typical of this terroir.Note: from 4 separate parcels totaling 4.11 ha, 3 of which are all at the top of the slope.A cool, restrained and airy nose grudgingly divulges its combination of lem
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“The 2022 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is deep and muscular, wafting from the glass with aromas of pear, orange oil, white flowers, buttery pastry, freshly baked bread and hazelnuts. Full-bodied, layered and concentrated, with racy acids and a long, elegantly mordant finish, it's a benchmark for the appellation that still flies under the radar.”William Kelley, The Wine Advocate 93-95 Points“This has very good intensity with scents of orange blossom, saffron, and light dried hon
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Here too there is moderate oak influence surrounding the aromas of poached pear, white flowers, crushed fennel and a lovely spicy quality. There is outstanding volume and density to the markedly powerful mineral-driven flavors that deliver excellent persistence on the youthfully austere finale. Pougets generally gives a relatively elegant CC but this version is muscular and while not exactly robust, it isn’t especially refined. Even so, I very much like this and in particular for its evident d
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"Here too there is a whiff of the exotic as well as a touch of phenolic character (think olive oil nuances) on the poached pear and apple compote aromas. There is excellent richness to the bigger-bodied flavors that are caressing yet markedly powerful finish that offers very fine depth and persistence. This isn't elegant, indeed it's borderline rustic, yet it nonetheless offers much to like in a firmly structured package."Allen Meadows, Burghound
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This is relatively firmly reduced so if you’re tempted to try a bottle young, be sure to give it some air first. Otherwise, there is good power and underlying tension to the medium weight plus flavors that retain solid delineation on the impressively long finish. This will need to add depth with time in bottle, but the material is present for that to occur. 2028+ (from 3 separate parcels that aggregate only .2 ha)Allen Meadows, Burghound
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Domaine Faiveley Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru 2022

Chardonnay | France, Aloxe-Corton

A more restrained nose only grudgingly displays its aromas of Granny Smith apples, anise, mineral reduction and more discreet floral elements. The racy and tautly muscular largebodied flavors possess a really lovely texture thanks to the abundant sappy dry extract that also serves to buffer the firm acidity shaping the beautifully long, stony and impeccably well-balanced finale. This also needs to develop better depth but given how tightly wound it is, and given the evident quality of the underl
Here too there is just enough wood to merit mentioning as well as a hint of the exotic to be found on the aromas of pear confit, jasmine tea, orange peel and peach. There is superb density to the highly seductive, even plush, larger-bodied flavors that possess a suave mouthfeel while displaying stunningly good length on the powerful, firm and built-to-age finale. This is a strikingly good Criots that could be approached after only 5 to 7 years yet should repay up to 15 years of keeping. Don't M
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Domaine Faiveley Bienvenues Bâtard Montrachet Grand Cru 2020

Chardonnay | Puligny-Montrachet, Burgundy

Faiveley is definitely a Domaine on the Ascention Aromas of hazelnuts, pear, confit citrus, honeycomb, toasted almonds and fresh bread introduce the 2020 Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, a full-bodied, rich and muscular wine that's layered and concentrated, girdled by bright acids and concluding with a long, saline finish.William Kelley, The Wine Advocate 93-95 BH 92-94
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Domaine Faiveley Bâtard Montrachet Grand Cru 2022

Chardonnay | Puligny-Montrachet, Burgundy

Soft wood sets off the cool, pretty and elegant aromas of honeysuckle, white orchard fruit and abundant spice and floral nuances, especially acacia. The dense and caressing medium-bodied flavors possess a highly seductive mid-palate mouthfeel that contrasts mildly with the firm, youthfully austere and impressively long finale where the wood treatment progressively resurfaces. This needs to develop more depth but that is all but assured if given a chance.92-94 Points, Allen Meadows – Burgho
"Here the brooding and very restrained nose is certainly ripe yet it's still almost classic with its aromas of mineral reduction, citrus peel, sea breeze, oyster shell and apple. Once again, the mouthfeel of the larger-scaled flavors is quite sleek with outstanding intensity along with abundant minerality while exhibiting excellent power on the dense and serious and bone-dry finish that also displays huge length. I did note just enough backend warmth to mention though otherwise this is superb. D