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White Wine

Chardonnay

Chardonnay has incredible versatility and can be picked over quite a wide range of sugar levels and flavour ripeness.

The variety takes its name from the village of Chardonnay near Uchizy in the Mâconnais, in southern Burgundy. A region gaining in reputation for the production of delicious Chardonnay. Thought to have originated from Sâone-et-Loire between Lyon and Dijon.

Where is it grown?

Burgundy is the mythical home of Chardonnay. From there it spreads far and wide across the world. One of the three main varieties of Champagne production, we also see massive plantings in Australia and North America. You’ll find it somewhere in pretty much every wine growing country.
In Australia 340,000 tonnes of Chardonnay grapes are harvested each year over four times more than the No.2 white grape in Australia, Sauvignon Blanc!

What does it taste like?

There are a vast array of flavours, aromas, and, textures that Chardonnay can offer from the fruit alone, add in use of solid, fermentation vessels like oak, eggs, and tanks, and, malolactic fermentation, the sky is the limit.

Chardonnay has incredible versatility and can be picked over quite a wide range of sugar levels and flavour ripeness. The same vineyard can be picked with enough sugar to make a wine of 10-11% alcohol for sparkling production and then 14% for table wine with anything in between possible. Picked earlier it tends to have more citrus and green apple characters. Picked ripper the natural acidity drops and the flavours progress through stone fruit, to pineapple, fig and melon.

The hand of the winemaker has been particularly evident in Australia over the last 20 years. Starting with big, broad, alcoholic full malo styles in the 1980’s and 1990’s, the pendulum swung to the lean, acid driven styles in Australia in the mid-00’s, with some down right mean wines produced in the cooler climates like the Yarra Valley, Adelaide Hills, Mornington, and, Tasmania.  Currently, styles have found balance with generosity and elegance. Australian Chardonnay is the best it has ever been. Restrained oak use is thankfully the norm, and, globally we are seeing greater use of larger oak barrels, reducing the influence of any new oak.

Use of wild fermentation, malolactic fermentation and grape solids in ferments can add an array of secondary aromas and flavours, nuttiness, creaminess, bakery notes, butteriness, funk.

Some makers have played heavily with reduction in Chardonnay often resulting in flinty, burnt match characters.

In Burgundy, climate change, just as in Australia (along with mature vineyards) has seen picking times bought forward with sugar levels maintaining. The degree of chaptalisation in Burgundy is reducing and is often not required at all.

Check out all the articles in the Wine Bites Mag exploring Chardonnay.

Filters & Sorting

A less elegant but more complex nose reflects plenty of Chablis typicity with its nose of spiced apple, sea breeze, tidal pool, ripe citrus and a touch of the exotic. There is excellent volume to the intense and muscular flavors that brim with both dry extract and minerality before concluding in a bitter lemon and anise-suffused finish that offers just a bit more depth. Like the Montée de Tonnerre, this very powerful effort should be capable of rewarding up to a decade of cellaring. Drink 2029+
"A vague hint of the exotic is present on the wonderfully elegant lemony white orchard fruit scented nose that reflects additional notes of mineral reduction and oyster shell. The notably finer medium-bodied flavors possess excellent punch on the mineral-driven and chiseled finish that goes on and on. This is lovely and while it too will need better depth, the aging curve is sufficiently promising that I am optimistic that more complexity will develop over the next decade. In a word, terrific. �
"A vague hint of the exotic is present on the wonderfully elegant lemony white orchard fruit scented nose that reflects additional notes of mineral reduction and oyster shell. The notably finer medium-bodied flavors possess excellent punch on the mineral-driven and chiseled finish that goes on and on. This is lovely and while it too will need better depth, the aging curve is sufficiently promising that I am optimistic that more complexity will develop over the next decade. In a word, terrific."
"This is more floral still with additional interest appearing in the form of citrus, oyster shell and apple scents. The rich, powerful and moderately full-bodied flavors possess both good verve and volume while displaying excellent length on the lightly mineral-inflected finish. Despite the volume the mouth feel here is really quite refined and I like the evident typicity." Drink 2022+ ♥ OutstandingNote: from a .30 ha parcel in Côte de BréchainAllen Meadows, Burghound
“The 2022 Puligny-Montrachet Les Referts 1er Cru has a compelling bouquet with wet limestone, petrichor and Granny Smith on the nose. This has very good vigor. The palate is well-balanced with an understated opening, just a light walnut and white peach note emerging with time and rounding out the finish. Very fine.” Neal Martin, Vinous 91-93 Points JM 91-94
$582
$562ea in any 3+
$542ea in any 6+
Once again there is a whiff of the exotic on the lychee nut-inflected aromas of white peach, acacia blossom, oyster shell and lemongrass. The wonderfully sleek and refined medium-bodied flavors brim with both minerality and dry extract on the stony, moderately austere and sneaky long finale. I really like the gorgeous mouthfeel and this ageworthy effort is a stunner of a MdT. Drink 2033+Note: from a .30 ha parcel in Côte de BréchainAllen Meadows, Burghound 94 PointsThe seve
The 2021 Chablis 1er Cru La Forest is a young classic, mingling scents of sweet citrus oil and peach with notions of white flowers, struck match, bee pollen and youthful reduction in an incipiently complex bouquet. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and textural, it's concentrated, taut and incisive, with a long, mineral finish. Drink 2025-2045William Kelley, The Wine Advocate 94 Points AM 94
Prominent notes of shellfish and mineral reduction add breadth to the aromas of lemon rind, apple and discreet floral wisps that also include a suggestion of the exotic. The racy and intensely citrus-suffused medium-bodied flavors exude plenty of minerality on the attractively dry, youthfully austere and linear finale. This firm if not especially dense effort is going to require at least a few years of keeping to unwind and add depth but ultimately, it should be excellent if given time. Drink
Here the airy and expressive nose is even more floral in character with its notes of acacia, rose petal and even a suggestion of gardenia on the aromas of ocean breeze, wet stone and shellfish. The more refined and highly energetic if less concentrated medium-bodied flavors tighten up noticeably on the focused, moderately austere and overtly stony finale. This seductive yet serious effort is going to require at least a few years of patience and should repay up to a decade of keeping if you wis
There is ample citrus influence suffusing the nose that could be from nowhere else but Chablis with its array of seashore, algae and oyster shell scents. The caressing but notably denser and more powerful larger-bodied flavors coat the palate while retaining an attractive texture on the strikingly persistent finish that is shaped by bright acidity. This can't match the MdT for refinement but it is presently more complex and should age just as well. Drink 2032+Allen Meadows, Burghound 89-92 P
“Mid lemon yellow. A little more oak on the nose though the power of the fruit boosts through. This is really complex on the palate – firstly an immense volume of ripe fruit, with a touch of bacon fat, then a little lemon wash. Lots of protein in the wines this year, I am told. Impressive length. Drink from 2027-2035.” JM 93-96 Points
$595
$575ea in any 3+
$555ea in any 6+
“The 2023 Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières 1er Cru has more vigor on the nose compared to the Les Referts, more mineral-driven with yellow flowers and a touch of lemon verbena. The palate is very well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, a lovely caressing texture and hints of chamomile infusing the orchard fruit toward the finish. The acidity keeps this tight and focused—a beautifully sculpted Puligny.” Neal Martin, Vinous 93-95 Points JM 93-96
$625
$605ea in any 3+
$585ea in any 6+