Why is this Wine so Yummy?
Von Buhl’s entry-level dry Riesling is drawn, in the main, from the estate’s sandstone-rich vineyards around the villages of Deidesheim, Forst and Ruppertsberg. There’s also some fruit from two small parcels that lie to the immediate east, Niederkirchen and Friedelsheim. All the estate vineyards are farmed organically (certified) and the wine is naturally fermented in stainless steel, with some parcels fermented in Von Buhl’s oval dopplestück casks. In some vintages, a portion of the blend is sourced from regional growers who follow Von Buhl’s strict charter of viticulture (though are not necessarily certified organic). Kauffmann’s incoming regime includes longer lees ageing, no pumping and very low sulphur additions, even at this level. Here we offer a beautiful illustration of the new style. The juicy 2017 captures the estate’s mineral and racy style to a tee, with citrus and floral notes and a dry, tangy personality. As always, it’s an absolute bargain.
About Von Buhl
Where do you go following twelve successful vintages as Bollinger chef de cave? In the case of Mathieu Kauffmann, you take up the post of head winemaker at iconic Von Buhl Estate in the Pfalz. That a winemaker of Kauffmann’s renown could be tempted from one of French wine’s most prestigious postings is an indication of this fabulous producer’s surging reputation, and its current run of form—which has it very close to the top of the German Riesling pile. As you will gather from the quotes above, Kauffmann and his team are off to a flying start.
It was Kauffmann predecessor, Stephan Weber, who got the ball rolling. Weber’s refocus to produce full-bodied site specific dry Rieslings – via a medium of low yield, low input and organic viticulture – clearly had the modern-era Von Buhl playing to its greatest strengths. The arrival of the Kauffmann, alongside managing director Richard Groche and vineyard manger Werner Sebastian, has taken this once sleeping giant to a whole new level. The vineyards are now being managed biodynamically, and there has been a raft of improvements in the cellar, some of which are outlined below. In short, today Von Buhl has the level of vineyard and cellar practices appropriate to an estate with one of the finest collections of vineyards in the Pfalz.