Robert Weil Kiedrich Turmberg Riesling Trocken 2021

Why is this Wine so Yummy?

As per the Klosterberg site, the vines here are in the 30- to 50-year-old range. The name Turmberg—or ‘tower hill’—derives from the ruins of the last surviving tower of the former castle, Burg Scharfenstein (12^th century), positioned dramatically atop the vineyard. The infamous German wine law of 1971 made this site a part of the neighbouring Gräfenberg, yet in 2005, Weil succeeded in having this 3.8-hectare plot reinstated as an individual classified site in the vineyard register (historically it had been a separate vineyard, reflecting the unique terroir). The Kiedrich Turmberg is a monopole, owned in entirety by the Robert Weil estate and, alongside Gräfenberg, is today classified as a Grosse Lage (although Weil chooses not to bottle a Grosses Gewächs from this site).

With its base of phyllite rock (metamorphosed slate) and thin topsoil, the Turmberg vineyard offers up fruit of much more mineral voltage than the Klosterberg, and in general is a racier wine (think great St Aubin as opposed to great Chassagne). Again, this stunning, ultra-precise Riesling was raised entirely in doppelstückfass for 10 months (two months longer that it has been in the past). Most would not bat an eyelid if this were labelled Grosses Gewächs. In a word: stunning,

“The famous blue label of the estate has become the symbol of the highest quality of German wines. Only a few wine estates can boast such a continual and high level of overall quality.”
Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve, Great Wines of the World

“Weil is widely seen as the jewel of Rheingau.” Jancis Robinson, The Financial Times

“Robert Weil has been one of the icons of German wine culture for many years. Nothing but the finest Rieslings are produced. And as more than 100 years ago, the wines are distinguished in terms of their origins and their style.”
Stephan Reinhardt, The Finest Wines of Germany

“The style of Robert Weil wines is unmistakable […] mineral, citrus-fruit flavor in the dry wines with no angular acidity and a crescendo of concentration and white peach fruit in the sweet wines.”
Freddy Price, Riesling Renaissance

The Rheingau wines of Robert Weil have reached well beyond cult status and today are revered across the globe as some of Germany’s most superlative Rieslings. Based in the town of Kiedrich, Weil’s wines are fuelled by the three epic, high altitude, south facing vineyards of Klosterberg, Turmberg and most famously, Gräfenberg, all situated in the foothills of the Taunus Mountains. From these historic sites, Wilhelm Weil, a pioneer of ‘earth to glass’ wine growing, guides Rheingau Riesling to its most seamless, precise expression and in doing so produces some of the world’s most inspirational Rieslings.

While Wilhelm Weil’s meticulous, everything by hand, berry by berry, approach, is a key factor in understanding the remarkable precision of these wines, it is, as always, the vineyards that dictate the ultimate quality and personality of the wines produced. These steep, stony, mineral rich vineyards are managed in order to maximise their terroir. Herbicides are never used, and as the aim here is to encourage life in the soil, only organic manure is applied and cover crops are grown to add to the organic matter. Grapes are harvested by hand with as many as 17 passes through the vineyard, ensuring only the most pristine and perfectly ripe grapes make it into each wine. In the winery all fruit receives a pre-ferment maceration, typically between 6-24 hours (or a lengthy 72 hours for the Erstes Gewächs). There is a very gentle pressing of whole berries, the musts are allowed to start fermenting naturally and spend varying time on lees subject to the cuvée.

The Rheingau was historically Germany’s most revered vineyard region and once produced the world’s most expensive wines. You only need to glance at a wine map of Germany to see why. This is Riesling’s Côte d’Or; a series of sheer, south facing, rocky slopes that maximise exposure to the sun and protect the vines from the bitter northern winds. It is this confluence of natural elements that enables Riesling to perfectly ripen at this very marginal, northern climate. With some of the highest (up to 780 ft ASL) and most revered vineyards in the region, Robert Weil is today the superstar of the Rheingau.

The 2021 Vintage at Weingut Robert Weil

Wilhelm Weil is enthusiastic about the 2021 vintage. From the end of September, he said it was possible to harvest grapes that were “healthy as a core and rich in extract,” which led to “dense cool-climate Rieslings” after the three previous warm vintages (2018–2020). The striking acidity of the vintage is well buffered by the potassium stored in the grapes and allows the Rieslings to shine and dance despite their substance. This was not foreseeable in the fall. But the “enthusiasm curve” rose steeply with the tasting of the young wines in the spring, so Weil is now convinced in the summer that the 2021 vintage will be celebrated in a few years and decades as one of the great ones. For himself, it is also clear that he has not yet processed a better one.

Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advocate

Where in the World is Weingut Robert Weil?

Weil is based in the Rheingau just to the north of the Rheinhessen on the western border of Germany.

Map by Fernando Beteta, MS @fernandobeteta on Twitter