Place of Changing Winds ‘Between Two Mountains’ Pinot Noir 2021

Why is this Wine so Yummy?

Place of Changing Winds vineyard is located between two mountains—Mount Macedon and Mount Bullengarook—hence the name of this cuvée. This wine ended up being around 1/3rd whole bunches and spent nineteen months maturing in Stockinger casks with no new oak. It’s a powerful Pinot, yet it still has great finesse and loads of upfront fruit. It will certainly drink well young, but we’re certain that it will age for a very long time, based on the balance and ample structure. It’s a blend of several parcels.

An industry retrospective & economic reality check

Back in 1998 the 2025 Wine Industry Strategy was released. All sorts of numbers were bandied about, including new planting area to be reached by 2025. That target was hit in either the year 2000 or 2001. The growth was insane and often ill-considered.

It had been a dry few years following the wet 1996 and sites that were swamps in a wet year were being planted by those new to regions like the Yarra Valley.

Vine material was not always of the best quality, and, vineyard preparation often followed a recipe. That is simply what was done.

With such rapid expansion, the end result was the wrong varieties were often planted on bad sites, and, the skill to nurture vines through their early years was not available.

The reality is the industry is rooted, there is an incredible number of wineries that are simply not viable, while we celebrate makers of good vino who keep their prices down, most of the time they’re living on the edge. Making 50c off a $30 bottle of wine.

Flood, frost, fire, phylloxera, global warming, and, drought making the odds of success at the roulette table much more appealing.

All of this means that of the innumerable parts of the vineryard / winery system a winery can pay attention to many just can’t be achieved through lack of finances and time.

Enter Rob Walters and his partner Kate Millard. In 2011 with the help of Michael Dhillon of Bindi, they found a site to plant in Bullegranook, Macedon.

Planting a small vineyard with up to 30,000 vine per hectare requiring several times the standard labour to manage, is economic insanity.

Passion and cashflow from other sources, turning a small fortune into a minuscule one is the driver for this project just like so many other wine ventures.

An incredible amount of thought has gone into this project, with both feet firmly all in, applying a whole of system approach that any bean counter would consider crazy.

The Place of Changing Winds (POCW) is starting to reveal it’s potential.

Rob being an importer of some of the worlds best wines has had exposure to some of the great wine minds. They have shared their wisdom and contributed to this unique project.

There may be things about the project that people will find confusing or disagree with. What you have to admire is the single-minded intent of making the best glass of vino they can. And, like so many in the industry the sacrifices they are willing to make to get there.

These early results are showing great promise.

About Place of Changing Winds

From Rob Walters:

Place of Changing Winds is an organic, high-density vineyard located in Bullengarook, a small hamlet in the Macedon Ranges of Victoria. Changing Winds takes its name from the original inhabitants, the Wurundjeri people, who named the place where the vines are currently planted Warekilla (or Place of Changing Winds). This characteristic still holds true today.

Situated at 500 metres above sea level, the ancient soils here are riddled with quartz, quartzite and sandstone and only Pinot Noir and Chardonnay is grown. The vines are planted very closely at a range of densities—from 12,000 to 33,000 vines/ha. The average density is over 15,000 vines/ha. Through decades of research and engagement we have developed our own version of organic practice, a model specifically adapted to our place and our vision. This model is designed to produce wines of the highest possible quality and the maximum expression of place.

In the Vineyard

Our system of practice has come out of research into historic practice, close observation of many great growers, and trial and error in our place.

Our practices include:

· Super high-density plantings: vines planted at 12,500, 14,000, 20,000, 25,000, and 33,000 vines/ha.

· Extremely low yield per vine—currently <250gm per vine (mainly driven by competition but also our soils and practices).

· Organic certified.

· Poussard pruning for five years now. Essentially, we form a two- or three-arm goblet, which is pruned in a way to maximise sap flow and minimise wood disease. This is a much more labour-intensive type of pruning, but the health benefits for the vine are significant.

· High canopy, with plaiting and arching of vines—no trimming.

· Co-plantation of plant material for part of the vineyard.

· An organic compost program designed to stimulate life in the soil, not vigour.

· We do a lot of work by hand.

In fact, across the entire vineyard, apart from some cultivation and organic treatments by tractor in some areas, everything is done by hand. This includes pruning, shoot thinning, lateral removal, hand weeding, arching shoots, shoot positioning and picking. We also do a great deal of our spraying by backpack on foot. We estimate that we visit each of our vines around ten times per year for some kind of manual work (by hand). There are also parts of the vineyard that have no tractor work at all – i.e., everything is done by hand or with a winch. All this is both for precision and to minimise compaction.

· Where we do use a tractor, it is a very light, <700kg machine on Caterpillar tracks, again to minimise compaction. It can run over your foot without injury.

· We also rarely use contract labour—only for some hand weeding and lateral removal—to ensure the standard of our work is extremely high.

· All of this work requires more than one, directly employed full-time person per hectare of vines. The resulting fruit cost is in the realm of $25-30K/tonne at the moment.

· The Estate wines are all grown, made and bottled, via our own bottling line, on-site. (The Syrah wines are also made and bottled by us.)

These practices haven’t come from nowhere. They are what I have observed at the Estates of a number of great growers, and those I have seen achieve outstanding results. Of course, I did not see all of these practices used at one single producer, and we have adapted them to our place.

In the Winery

More to come.

The 2021 Vintage at Place of Changing Winds

To get straight to the point, 2021 is clearly the finest set of wines released from Place of Changing Winds. As the notes from James Halliday (and others) below make clear, we’re not alone in this assessment. The quantities remain very small, and the range limited, but the quality in the glass is ten years in the making.

The goal since the beginning for Place of Changing Winds has been to establish a vineyard and a system of practice that can stand comparison with the world’s greatest estates. The aim has been to answer the question, “How much of a difference to style and quality does this type of extreme practice make?” The 2021s seem to be answering that question.

It wasn’t always evident that 2021 was going to be a great year at this address. This was the first of the two ‘La Niña’ vintages (along with 2022) that they experienced, and the weather was cold and wet for much of the year. When you consider that POCW is at 500 metres altitude, in a cool place that already gets enough rainfall, you can easily imagine that any La Niña season would be long, late and challenging. Despite this, thanks to a power of canopy management in the vines, very low yields, and a burst of warm weather at the end of vintage, the harvest ended up being a great success, harvesting a small crop of perfectly clean and ripe fruit between April 4th (Easter Sunday) and April 7th.

The vineyard was picked parcel by parcel, as each plot arrived at maturity. What came into the winery were small bunches (mostly 30-70 grams) with tiny, perfectly ripe berries, and all of the fruit was over 13 degrees potential alcohol with zero rot. The crops were very low, due mostly to a cool flowering period, with less than 250gm harvested per vine! Hen and chicken and shot berries were widespread, but the potential for quality was obvious. The low yields helped in achieving complete ripeness, despite the cool year.

All three wines below are deep, layered, and luscious, with great length and character. They have power, but also freshness and drive, and they offer a sign of where things are heading at Place of Changing Winds. In other positive news, there will be more Estate wine available from the 2022 vintage, as more of the vineyard becomes productive.

Where in the World is Place of Changing Winds?

Place of Changing Winds is in Bullengarook within the Macedon Ranges, one of Victoria’s cool climate wine regions. Look to the north and a little west of Melbourne.