Cavallotto Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis ‘Vigna San Guiseppe’ 2010

Why is this Wine so Yummy?

From the importer: The fruit for the Barolo Riserva San Giuseppe derives from the small ‘sub terroir’ of the Bricco Boschis known as Vigna San Giuseppe. Rising steeply behind the family’s dwelling and cantina, this 2.45 hectare block has long been considered an ‘x-factor’ site that consistently delivers one of the greatest Barolo’s of the region. Like in Burgundy, where the grands crus occupy the mid-slope of the Côte, so it is with the Vigna San Giuseppe in the Bricco Boschis. Here you get the best of everything: altitude, but not too high, excellent drainage, but enough water retention thanks to the limestone so that the vines don’t stress, a complex mixture of soils including blue tinted clays, limestone and sand. Add to this, mature vines, old clones and a south-west exposure, and the stars are aligned to produce greatness. Reflecting the power of the fruit grown here, the Vigna San Giuseppe Riserva sees a slightly longer maceration than the standard cru, maturing for 4+ years in large oak casks and then one year in bottle.

About a year ago we had a Barolo Magnum festa. There were some seriously big names amongst the mix. The top 3 wines in no particular order 1999 Bartolo Mascarello, 1999 Giacomo Conterno Cascina Francia, and, 2001 Cavallotto ‘Bricco Boschis’ Riserva made from the ‘Vigna San Giuseppe’ parcel within Cavallotto’s Monopole ‘Bricco Boscis’.

That is some serious company to play with.

When you unearth the history of Cavallotto, all the elements are there, great sites, high planting density, balanced healthy vineyards with moderate crops, now farmed organically.

Two additional elements take their wines to the next level, vine age, continuity of farmers with the retention of wisdom it offers! This is, and, has always been a family business, knowledge built on, and, passed from generation to generation.

Common threads run through Cavallotto’s wines, from their Dolcetto, to their Barbera, and, Nebbiolo’s, Langhe, Barolo Bricco Boschis, and, Barolo Riserva from Vigna San Guiseppe and Vigna Vignolo.

They are focused on purity of fruit, without the interference of oak, complexity, and, are one of the best examples off carefully considered élévage on the market. All of this results in wines of great expression and vibrancy.

Earlier this week I tasted, read drank, 12 x 2010 Baroli. Reflecting on the mix, there was a distinction between modern and traditional styles, perhaps less obvious than you would have seen 10 years ago, none the less it was there. The most modern of styles tended to have darker colour, less complexity, more new oak, look slightly more clinical and clean, not having the personality of the more traditional wines which tended to have great harmony, complexity, and, more intrigue. Unfortunately 2 of the more traditional wines clearly lacked cellar hygiene and were spoiled by Brettanomyces.

Cavallotto’s wines clearly sit on the classic, traditional, Barolo side of the ledger.

Cavallotto’s Wine Making

As you’d expect from wines made in a more classical style, there’s longer maceration, time on skins, which often softens tannins, and, layers in complexity, think perfume and truffles. Oak is old and large Botte 2,000-10,000L in volume. Not only do these keep the wine fresher during maturation, but, impart no oak tannins, aroma or flavour. Maturation is longer, than, many in both Botte and then bottle, the very reason you’re just seeing the 2012 Barolo now when many have released 2013’s.

They make such beautiful, expressive wines!

Where in the World do Cavallotto’s wines come from?

Cavallotto is yet another example of knowing your producers, and, their vineyards. In the heart of Castiglione Falletto, Cavallotto holds the monopole (single owner) vineyard Bricco Boschis, only a stones through away from another famed Barolo monopole, Monprivato. Although I don’t like comparing the two, Monprivato, produces some of the most Burgundian, Nebbiolo I’ve ever had.

You can see the Barbera in the light green on the map is planted on the ‘Bricco Boschis’, it’s just going to be good. Just like Vietti’s Langhe Nebbiolo, Cavallotto’s is sourced from vineyards that are effectively declassified Barolo vineyard.

Surrounding the Bricco Boschis, within 500m are the remainder of their holdings. Including the Vigna Vignolo, consistently the source of their Riserva.

All the vines have serious age, with Dolcetto planting near 40 years old, Barbera 55 years, and, Nebbiolo 45 to 55 years old.

*Watch or listen as we explore the history, vineyards, winemaking and wines of Cavallotto!