Size & Type
Other
$58
Here’s a wine punching well above its weight! Everything is here and in the right places. The depth of fruit, transparency, there’s a little front, mid-palate attack of very high quality tannin that has been handled beautifully. Loads of energy and plenty of fun. When you look at the vineyard location on the hill between Barolo and Monforte with a splash of Cru wine in the mix it all kinda makes sense!
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On the edge of Barolo village, just a few metres down and across the cobblestones of the via Roma from Cantina Bartolo Mascarello, is the unprepossessing cantina frontage to one of the most exciting discoveries in my many years of going to the Langhe. It’s not as though Barale just emerged, but these firmly traditional wines are now being made to the full potential of the family’s remarkable vineyards and this unforced, traditional style is now being fully appreciated.
Barale present a catalogue of superb, authentic Barolo and a cru Barbaresco, bell-clear Piemontese varietals, Nebbiolo, Barbera and Dolcetto, along with a slight twist in the form of a wonderful metodo classico – as good a sparkler as I’ve ever had in Italy. Another great asset is a wonderful, typically far-sighted museum collection, an archive the last 2 decades of Barale winemaking. Oh, and that Chinato, all elegant, fragrant and addictive.
The Barale family have in fact been at it for centuries and while they are amongst the first recorded producers of Barolo wine, from 1870, they appear in the village register of the early 1600s as owners of parts of some pretty familiar vineyard names; Coste di Rose, Cannubi, Castellero and Preda. The current custodians, Sergio Barale and his daughters Eleonora and Gloria owe their heritage to the acquisition, over generations, of vineyards in not only Barolo comune, but also in Monforte d’Alba and Barbaresco. By the 1970’s the family had brought more Cannubi and added Monrobiolo (in Barolo) and some Bussia (in Monforte) and into the 90’s had virtually swapped their long-held Rabaja vineyard in Barbaresco for some Serraboella in Neive planted in 1969. All this covers only 20 ha, with Sergio tailoring his plantings almost precisely only to the best soil and aspect combinations. Virtually the whole of Cannubi was replanted at the end of the 2007 vintage, and although just back in production, it’s with startling results. Vineyards are everything to Barale.
The initial approach is the same for all the reds; delicate crushing in order to keep skins intact, fermentation with indigenous yeasts, controlled temperature and maceration with frequent basting of the skins. The fermentation vessel, temperatures and macerations change according to the grape.
While based in Barolo, Barale makes this beautiful wine from the Serraboella vineyard in Nieve, Barbaresco. This wine comes from San Giovanni on the Bricco immediately outside the village – therefore strictly speaking Barolo commune but effectively it’s just as much Bussia. On calcareous sand facing south-east.
“From right on the Barolo town and commune boundary, but just inside San Giovanni at the extreme tip of Bussia. So Monforte. Shows 2018 is no dud vintage – even if not in the class of 2017 or stellar 19.” says importer, David Ridge
Most of the 2018 wines show a bit more crunch and slightly scratchy grip to the tannin, and that’s what we have here too. It’s bright and red fruited, aniseed and dried roses, a slight dried herb perfume there too. Freshness and energy, tannin perhaps not perfectly ripe, but the succulence and perfume make it quite appealing.
Where in the world does the magic happen?
Barale Fratelli, Via Roma, Barolo, Piedmont, Province of Cuneo, Italy
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