Size & Type
What he achieves by a combo of half vinified in stainless steel and half the ferments in barrel, is the ideal melding of the racy with the complex and textured.
A pretty flash Weissburgunder AKA Pinot Bianco! Excellent drinking. A layer of that shroomy, wet wool earthy funk I often see, and enjoy in high acid whites. White flowers perfume. Ripe white grapefruit. Counterpointed with a little stonefruit, fresh and zippy. Chalky acid with a dusting of phenolics adds cleansing grip. Superb long finish. Savoury pops. Serious drinking. Great length and depth.
If you’re not a convert to the importance of Pinot Blanc, through the likes of Terlaner’s Vorberg or Nals Margried’s Sirmian, or even its affordable deliciousness via Cantina Kellerei’s Aristos or Tiefenbrunner’s Morus – then maybe it’s time to try this; Waldgries’ intense, multifaceted and supremely balanced masterpiece.
It’s only a very short drive after leaving the bustling A22, to the serenity of Ansitz (‘Residences’) Waldgries, just minutes from the Eastern outskirts of Bolzano. Here amongst buildings dating back to 1242 you will find best-of or benchmark contenders for not one or two, but seriously four of Alto Adige/Sudtirol’s classic varietals; Weissburgunder/Pinot Bianco, Sauvignon (Blanc), Schiava/Vernatsch and Lagrein. In fact make it 5; better add their consistently fabulous passito-style Rosenmuskateller (Moscato Rosa) to that list. If only we could get some. In effect Christian Plattner’s Waldgries is one of the top 2-3 producers of the entire region.
The property was purchased by the local Plattner family in the 1940s, with the essential aim of honouring nearly a millennium of continuous winemaking from the time of founder Roblinus Waldgries. If you’ve been in this part of the world and walked something like the Weinweg, the impossibly scenic Wine Path that wends its way past Waldgries, you’ll be forgiven for not being sure what era of the last few centuries you’re in. It’s a magic place that does produce magical wines.
The pair of very low-yielding vineyards of Appiano and Schwarzhaus just to the south-west of Bolzano, are the typical glacial moraine, but these are shot through with lots of limestone. This, along with the 500 metre altitude, bodes for aromatics, texture and structure.
“I want my Pinot Blanc full-flavoured, complex and mature” says Christian Plattner “I’m not so keen on the green and steely variant, and so I give the wine 2 years more to develop before we release.”
What he achieves by a combo of half vinified in stainless steel and half the ferments in barrel, is the ideal melding of the racy with the complex and textured. There’s so much going on here, with fruits of lemon flower, peach, spring flower and sweet herb, over (under?) lain by minerality, textural notes of cream, bakery and what there they call ‘hydrocarbon’ – faint whiffs of diesel or clean motor oil. It has massive feel, a fierce structure, yet it’s all so fresh. Christian’s wines all exhibit that wonderful freshness.
50:50 tank:old wood, a bit of whole bunch & time on lees.
Ansitz Waldries in located in Bolzano, Alto Adige.
Where in the world does the magic happen?
Ansitz Waldgries, 2, Sankt Justina Straße, Bolzano, Autonomous Province of Bolzano – South Tyrol, Italy