Location

Italy

Ahhh … Italy! Home of renaissance literature, philosophy, science and some of the most heart warming food in the world. From North to South it would be a fair guess to say the only thing outnumbering churches and Vespa’s are the vast areas of vineyards.

One thing is certain, you’ll never run short of choice!

First Records of Wine Production – Go back millennia!

Founding Figures – The Greek colonisation marked a shift from vine grown in the wild to planned viticulture around 800 BC the Romans dramatically expanded production around 200 BC. The Italians never looked back!

Area Planted – Around 700,000 hectares making around 19% of the world’s wine!

Number of Wineries – Soave alone is made by 3,500 producers. That’s around the same number of wineries as in all of Australia! From gargistes to industrial scale conglomerates every Italian has a winemaker in the family.

Established Regions – Every region in Italy produces wine! The most prestigious region Piedmont is home to the stunning Nebbiolos of Barolo & Barbaresco. The Chianti and Brunello of Tuscany following hot on Piedmont’s heals. These are just a drop in the ocean!

In typical Italian style the classification systems of each region vary and are often skewed by influential persons with much to gain over the quality of the industry. As always we need to rely on our taste buds as the ultimate decider of quality!

Most Common VarietiesIn his book ‘Native Wine Grapes of Italy’ Ian D’Agata documents around 500 Italian grape varieties, by no means the complete set! Around 350 of these have been granted authorized status. There’s plenty to try! We’ve seen a push to save some of the notable, rare varietals like the white Nascetta and Arneis from Piedmont. 

Whilst we have seen an ingress of French Varietals, the most notable being the Cabernet Varietals + Syrah used to make the Super Tuscans, the Italians have, by and large stayed true to their roots.

White – Whites of note: Arneis (Piedmont), Cataratto (Sicily), Fiano (southwest coast), Friulano (Friuli), Gargenaga (Veneto – the Soave grape), Greco di Tufo (southwest coast), Malvasia Bianca (throughout Italy), Moscato Blanc (Piedmont), Pecorino (Abruzzo), Pinot Grigo (Why?), Ribolla Gialla (Friulli), Trebbiano (Abruzzo), Verdicchio (Marche) and Vermentino (Sardinia, Tuscany and Liguria).

Red – Aglianico (Campania), Barbera (Piedmont), Corvina blended with Rondinella to make Amarone, Dolcetto (Piedmont), Malvasia Nera (Puglia), Montepuliciano (Tuscany), Nebbiolo (Piedmont), Negaromaro (Puglia), Nero d’Avola (Sicily), Primitivo (Puglia), Sagrantino (Umbria) and Sangiovese (Tuscany).

Up and Coming Regions – Beyond Barolo and Barbaresco, around the world we have seen Amarone, Chianti, Soave, Prosecco, Verdicchio and the wines of Puglia gain strong recognition. In recent times the increasing cost of Barolo in particular has seen exploration of Nebbiolo from Alto Piedmonte and Valtellina. At the opposite end of the country, in part due to the investment of heavy hitters like ‘Barolo Boy’ Marco di Grazie (Terre Nere) and Andrea Franchetti (Passopisciaro) the Nerello Mascelese (red) and Carricante (white) wines of Etna, Sicily have become world recognised. Nerello Mascelese being described as some as the Barolo of the South or a cross between Nebbiolo and Pinot. I prefer to call it delicious!


A Treasure Hunt for the Lost Whites of Italy!


Timorasso ~ Nascetta ~ Erbaluce

3 Italian Whites Saved from Extinction!

Of the thousands of grape varieties that exist, and even more clones of each variety, few make it into our glass.

Many have been lost. Economic reality making them not viable.

Advances in viticulture, changes in climate and the passion of a few individuals have saved a few!

For that we are thankful!


Timorasso


The Saviours

Walter & Claudio along with their shared cellarmaster ‘Pigi’ are both the saviours & masters of Timorasso! The hold some of the oldest plantings making wine of great complexity, texture. Composed & full of personality.

Walter describes his Derthona as a “Modern Antique”.

Monlia Colli Tortonesi Timorasso 2021

Timorasso | Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi

Released 6 months later than the 2020 and it shows immediately. The extra time offers up a beautifully resolved wine. There’s something about the texture, aroma and flavour profile of good Italian white. That silvery line of bitterness that graces the finish. Out to play, seamless, the texture is refined with an excellent phenolic play married to fine acid. When Pietro visited Wine Deoced HQ we talked of the gentle development large oak casks offer whilst retaining freshness in a wine. This is
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NOTE on the 2022: An excellent follow up to the 2021. A slightly more generous iteration. All of the elements once again at play. Texture, clever use of oxidative handling to build intrigue whilst maintaining a core of vibrant fruit and mineral acidity. Citrus zest and oils with pears and a little candied ginger. White flowers dance over the top with a little savoury hit. Flowing and luscious, chalky, savoury, spiced, sapidity in a cleansing way. Plenty of intrigue and interest here. An exceptio
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Vietti Derthona Timorasso Colli Tortonesi 2020

Timorasso | Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi

The latest addition to the Vietti portfolio sees a white from the eastern most border of the Piedmont region. A perfect fit for Vietti with regard to their history of working with varietals of merit that for one reason or another have diminished over time.Timorasso makes beautiful wine the Massa is a cracker. I can't wait to try Vietti's version. With a wonderful array of flavours, textures, and, wonderful acidity the variety is loaded with personality & intrigue.For the 2019: Th
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Vigneti Massa Timorasso 'Derthona' 2022
Delicious!

Vigneti Massa Timorasso ‘Derthona’ 2022

Timorasso | Italy, Colli Tortonesi

From near extinction the Massa family have saved Timorasso, for that I am truly thankful! Massa's Derthona is the perfect introduction to the serious end of the spectrum of Timorasso.The note is a dead ringer for the 2021 although there is perhaps an edge more energy, depth and length in the 2022.Excellent build in depth and length with excellent oxidative line that sits perfectly with fine acid and insane lemon oil and those mega lemons you could eat straight + apricot kernel.. Great de
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Explore all of our Timorasso!


Nascetta


The Saviour

Elvio Cogno with his plantings in Novello, Barolo is turning out intoxicating wines from Nascetta. As he says they need a year or 2 in bottle to reveal their full potential. Grab a 2019 to drink now and 2020 next summer!

Nascetta - Italy's answer to Gewurztraminer. Fragrant, spicy and fresh.This is a fun, youthful wine that is drinking well now but could possibly benefit from a little more time to develop, allowing the fruit and underlying structure to better harmonise. Wonderful aromas come swinging out of the glass, with pops of pity citrus, yellow stone fruits, white blossoms and a line of saline minerality. The palate marries ripe, juicy fruit with a savoury lines of lees and spicy white pepper; gentle p
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Erbaluce


The Champion

Erbaluce can make many styles of from sparkling, late harvest & passito wines.

Antoniolo’s is a wonderfully fresh and crunchy dry white style. The 2020 has settled, resolving beautifully over the last 6 months and is in a wonderful place.

Perfect summer drinking.

Antoniolo Erbaluce d’Caluso DOC 2022

Erbaluce | Italy, Alto Piemonte

If you've never tried Erbaluce before this is a bloody good place to start!Like Timorasso & Nascetta this is a varietal to watch!Tasting the 2020 it was clear that like Cogno's Nascetta, Antoniolo's Erbaluce benefits from a hear in bottle to settle.Notes on the 20202nd Taste Oct 2022 - Very Good, super racy zippy acid coming together nicely resolved filled out. Looks good fun crisp. Perfect summer drinking. Elevage is there. Spice, the overt traminer, savvy b herbaceous t
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Filters & Sorting

L’Erta di Radda Chianti Classico 2021

Red Blend | Tuscany, Chianti Classico

This looks very good. Earthy, savoury, vibrant energetic. Openning in the glass, to reveal a comforting, flowing, delicious wine. The faintest lick of botti oak wash. Excellent core of fruit layered and caressing. Delicious. Grape First. Just yum. Part of the new wave doing it in style! The earth and spice from Canaiolo, savoury  & delicious. Relax, devour it and just smile!“The 2021 Chianti Classico is a deep, savory wine that is still coming together after its bottling. Crushed
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San Giusto a Rentennano Chianti Classico 2023

Red Blend | Tuscany, Chianti Classico

The 2023 Chianti Classico is terrific. In fact, it is one of the most complete wines of the year. Dark cherry fruit, leather, cedar, menthol and lavender all take shape in the glass. The 2023 is dense but not heavy. Even so, I would give it a few years to shed some baby fat. It's an impeccable wine in a challenging year.Antonio Galloni, Vinous 92 PointsSplash it in the decanter, grab a Bistecca Fiorentina & enjoy!
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Nebbiolo makes fantastic fresh Rosé Great to see the development on this. Nicely weighted and flowing, red fruits with some of the green / woody herb + spice. This is delicious, dry fine juice with a mouthwatering acid structure. Strong.Airy and fresh yet complex as well, the 2022 Il Rosato impresses with its lifting notes of rose, crushed stone, peach skins and lemon oil. Refined yet juicy and fruit-forward, this casts lime-tinged apple and green melon easily across the palate, energi
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Finally got my laughing gear around this (Aug 2024). Classic structured Monforte! A day of air brings out the perfume and harmonises and softens the tannins. A classic tar and roses profile lifts from the glass with sour cherry and blood playing around red and blue fruits with baking spice and a cleansing sappiness. The elegance and transparency of the fruit profile is dominated by some serious tannin of very high quality so typical of Monforte. It will take time to resolve full, when it does th
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San Giusto a Rentennano Chianti Classico 2020

Red Blend | Tuscany, Chianti Classico

Finally got my laughing gear around this. There's stuff going on here. It plays a balance between beauty and the beast. Finally got my laughing gear around this. So, now I get what all the fuss is about. First wine I tried from these guys was their Rosato, it's a might tasty beverage. It has the same seamless complexity, spice, chocolate, earth, joy, that makes their Rosato the insanely delicious wine it is. There's stuff going on here. It plays a balance between beauty and the beast. A dark, ne
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Tiberio Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOP 2022

Montepuliciano | Italy, Abruzzo

Cerasuolo is a generic term used for Rosé in some parts of Italy. Tiberio have nailed this one. Bone dry, crunchy, juicy, vibrant, a wonderful refreshing zing from super fine acid. It's divine! A fine layer of tannin offers just enough grip to add textural intrigue. Guido's note is bang on. Don't overchill it. Definitely knock it back to 10°C and allow it to play in the low teens as you devour it.Paul Kaan, Wine DecodedThe 2022 Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo seduces with its perfumed blend of
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Tiberio Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOP 2023

Montepuliciano | Italy, Abruzzo

Cerasuolo is a generic term used for Rosé in some parts of Italy. The 2022 is a stunner, can't wait to try the 2023. It's looking like this will be a stapple on the Wine Decoded list!Don't overchill it. Definitely knock it back to 10°C and allow it to play in the low teens as you devour it.Paul Kaan, Wine DecodedA translucent ruby in color, the 2023 Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo is lifted and finessed with a gorgeous bouquet of rose petals, cedar shavings, wild blueberries and crushed
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Tiberio Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOP 2023

Trebbiano | Italy, Abruzzo

"... this is really a baby Fonte Canale, so you know this offers a ton of value for the money."Another cracking white from Tiberio. I have just 1 bottle of 2021 Fonte Canale (Tiberio's top of the wazza Trebbiano vying for the best white of Italy) for myself. Given the quality of this entry level Trebbiano, my expectation are through the roof!A superb core of fruit. The texture of this wine is fascinating, saline and chalky with cleansing grip focused on the front to mid-palate that gives
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Tiberio Montepuliciano d’Abruzzo DOP 2022

Montepuliciano | Italy, Abruzzo

In it's youth it needs plenty of air. You could easily drink a bottle over a few days. Put your decanter to work and throw this puppy around. Immediately, it weaves together, the loose edges smoothen, and the expression builds. A rich wine that remains energetic. Red and dark fruited, layered with baking spices, cloves and florals. Slatey tannins with a playful grip cleanse. Proper wine that will offer much more with time in bottle. It's an impressive introduction to Tiberio's reds. I can't wait
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Francesco Versio Langhe Nebbiolo 2020
Superb! Bravi Francesco!🍷

Francesco Versio Langhe Nebbiolo 2020

Nebbiolo | Neive, Italy

The 'Side Project' of ex-Bruno Giacosa's winemaker Francesco Versio ... His 1st Langhe Neb Release! There is no mistaking the quality here. It all makes sense when you discover the fruit is destined to make Barbaresco, sourced from the 50:50 Starderi and Currà cru. Seriously good P.1.S.S. Call it a cheap Barbaresco instead of a Langhe Neb. Perfume and energy with divine mouthfeel. Juicy, thirst quenching and still with plenty more to come! 
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Oddero Langhe Nebbiolo 2021

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

A great way to introduce both Nebbiolo & Poderi Oddero to your MOUTH! This is not meant to be a baby Barolo, it will pants many a Barolo! Isabella Oddero says that the Nebbiolo from this zone is more elegant and perfumed with less structure than other zones.
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Castello dei Rampolla Chianti Classico 2021

Red Blend | Tuscany, Chianti Classico

Is it traditional Chianti Classico? No. Is it bloody good? YES!! The 2021 Chianti Classico is an elegant, gracious wine. Crushed flowers, bright red-toned fruit, tobacco, cinnamon and dried flowers all take shape in a decidedly delicate, understated wine from Rampolla. A model of elegance and finesse, the 2021 is showing beautifully today. There is perhaps just a touch of VA in the bouquet, but it is not especially evident. The blend is 80% Sangiovese, 16% Merlot and a dollop of Cabernet Sauvig
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