Location

Italy

Ahhh … Italy! Home of renaissance literature, philosophy, science and some of the most heart warming food in the world. From North to South it would be a fair guess to say the only thing outnumbering churches and Vespa’s are the vast areas of vineyards.

One thing is certain, you’ll never run short of choice!

First Records of Wine Production – Go back millennia!

Founding Figures – The Greek colonisation marked a shift from vine grown in the wild to planned viticulture around 800 BC the Romans dramatically expanded production around 200 BC. The Italians never looked back!

Area Planted – Around 700,000 hectares making around 19% of the world’s wine!

Number of Wineries – Soave alone is made by 3,500 producers. That’s around the same number of wineries as in all of Australia! From gargistes to industrial scale conglomerates every Italian has a winemaker in the family.

Established Regions – Every region in Italy produces wine! The most prestigious region Piedmont is home to the stunning Nebbiolos of Barolo & Barbaresco. The Chianti and Brunello of Tuscany following hot on Piedmont’s heals. These are just a drop in the ocean!

In typical Italian style the classification systems of each region vary and are often skewed by influential persons with much to gain over the quality of the industry. As always we need to rely on our taste buds as the ultimate decider of quality!

Most Common VarietiesIn his book ‘Native Wine Grapes of Italy’ Ian D’Agata documents around 500 Italian grape varieties, by no means the complete set! Around 350 of these have been granted authorized status. There’s plenty to try! We’ve seen a push to save some of the notable, rare varietals like the white Nascetta and Arneis from Piedmont. 

Whilst we have seen an ingress of French Varietals, the most notable being the Cabernet Varietals + Syrah used to make the Super Tuscans, the Italians have, by and large stayed true to their roots.

White – Whites of note: Arneis (Piedmont), Cataratto (Sicily), Fiano (southwest coast), Friulano (Friuli), Gargenaga (Veneto – the Soave grape), Greco di Tufo (southwest coast), Malvasia Bianca (throughout Italy), Moscato Blanc (Piedmont), Pecorino (Abruzzo), Pinot Grigo (Why?), Ribolla Gialla (Friulli), Trebbiano (Abruzzo), Verdicchio (Marche) and Vermentino (Sardinia, Tuscany and Liguria).

Red – Aglianico (Campania), Barbera (Piedmont), Corvina blended with Rondinella to make Amarone, Dolcetto (Piedmont), Malvasia Nera (Puglia), Montepuliciano (Tuscany), Nebbiolo (Piedmont), Negaromaro (Puglia), Nero d’Avola (Sicily), Primitivo (Puglia), Sagrantino (Umbria) and Sangiovese (Tuscany).

Up and Coming Regions – Beyond Barolo and Barbaresco, around the world we have seen Amarone, Chianti, Soave, Prosecco, Verdicchio and the wines of Puglia gain strong recognition. In recent times the increasing cost of Barolo in particular has seen exploration of Nebbiolo from Alto Piedmonte and Valtellina. At the opposite end of the country, in part due to the investment of heavy hitters like ‘Barolo Boy’ Marco di Grazie (Terre Nere) and Andrea Franchetti (Passopisciaro) the Nerello Mascelese (red) and Carricante (white) wines of Etna, Sicily have become world recognised. Nerello Mascelese being described as some as the Barolo of the South or a cross between Nebbiolo and Pinot. I prefer to call it delicious!


A Treasure Hunt for the Lost Whites of Italy!


Timorasso ~ Nascetta ~ Erbaluce

3 Italian Whites Saved from Extinction!

Of the thousands of grape varieties that exist, and even more clones of each variety, few make it into our glass.

Many have been lost. Economic reality making them not viable.

Advances in viticulture, changes in climate and the passion of a few individuals have saved a few!

For that we are thankful!


Timorasso


The Saviours

Walter & Claudio along with their shared cellarmaster ‘Pigi’ are both the saviours & masters of Timorasso! The hold some of the oldest plantings making wine of great complexity, texture. Composed & full of personality.

Walter describes his Derthona as a “Modern Antique”.

Monlia Colli Tortonesi Timorasso 2021

Timorasso | Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi

Released 6 months later than the 2020 and it shows immediately. The extra time offers up a beautifully resolved wine. There’s something about the texture, aroma and flavour profile of good Italian white. That silvery line of bitterness that graces the finish. Out to play, seamless, the texture is refined with an excellent phenolic play married to fine acid. When Pietro visited Wine Deoced HQ we talked of the gentle development large oak casks offer whilst retaining freshness in a wine. This is
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NOTE on the 2022: An excellent follow up to the 2021. A slightly more generous iteration. All of the elements once again at play. Texture, clever use of oxidative handling to build intrigue whilst maintaining a core of vibrant fruit and mineral acidity. Citrus zest and oils with pears and a little candied ginger. White flowers dance over the top with a little savoury hit. Flowing and luscious, chalky, savoury, spiced, sapidity in a cleansing way. Plenty of intrigue and interest here. An exceptio
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Vietti Derthona Timorasso Colli Tortonesi 2020

Timorasso | Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi

The latest addition to the Vietti portfolio sees a white from the eastern most border of the Piedmont region. A perfect fit for Vietti with regard to their history of working with varietals of merit that for one reason or another have diminished over time.Timorasso makes beautiful wine the Massa is a cracker. I can't wait to try Vietti's version. With a wonderful array of flavours, textures, and, wonderful acidity the variety is loaded with personality & intrigue.For the 2019: Th
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Vigneti Massa Timorasso 'Derthona' 2022
Delicious!

Vigneti Massa Timorasso ‘Derthona’ 2022

Timorasso | Italy, Colli Tortonesi

From near extinction the Massa family have saved Timorasso, for that I am truly thankful! Massa's Derthona is the perfect introduction to the serious end of the spectrum of Timorasso.The note is a dead ringer for the 2021 although there is perhaps an edge more energy, depth and length in the 2022.Excellent build in depth and length with excellent oxidative line that sits perfectly with fine acid and insane lemon oil and those mega lemons you could eat straight + apricot kernel.. Great de
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Explore all of our Timorasso!


Nascetta


The Saviour

Elvio Cogno with his plantings in Novello, Barolo is turning out intoxicating wines from Nascetta. As he says they need a year or 2 in bottle to reveal their full potential. Grab a 2019 to drink now and 2020 next summer!

Nascetta - Italy's answer to Gewurztraminer. Fragrant, spicy and fresh.This is a fun, youthful wine that is drinking well now but could possibly benefit from a little more time to develop, allowing the fruit and underlying structure to better harmonise. Wonderful aromas come swinging out of the glass, with pops of pity citrus, yellow stone fruits, white blossoms and a line of saline minerality. The palate marries ripe, juicy fruit with a savoury lines of lees and spicy white pepper; gentle p
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Erbaluce


The Champion

Erbaluce can make many styles of from sparkling, late harvest & passito wines.

Antoniolo’s is a wonderfully fresh and crunchy dry white style. The 2020 has settled, resolving beautifully over the last 6 months and is in a wonderful place.

Perfect summer drinking.

Antoniolo Erbaluce d’Caluso DOC 2022

Erbaluce | Italy, Alto Piemonte

If you've never tried Erbaluce before this is a bloody good place to start!Like Timorasso & Nascetta this is a varietal to watch!Tasting the 2020 it was clear that like Cogno's Nascetta, Antoniolo's Erbaluce benefits from a hear in bottle to settle.Notes on the 20202nd Taste Oct 2022 - Very Good, super racy zippy acid coming together nicely resolved filled out. Looks good fun crisp. Perfect summer drinking. Elevage is there. Spice, the overt traminer, savvy b herbaceous t
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Filters & Sorting

VINEYARD: “Colonnello” vineyard, in Bussia (Monforte d’Alba). NOTES: the vineyard “Colonnello” is about 40-45 years old and, to maintain it, the vines are replanted from time to time. The main variety of Nebbiolo is Michet and its rootstock is 420 A.
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Giovanni Sordo Barolo 'Gabutti' MAGNUM 2016
The Bold!

Giovanni Sordo Barolo ‘Gabutti’ MAGNUM 2016

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

Ooh. Wow. So dense in aromatics that it’s hard to label them! Wait. Simply fabulous and the star of this first tasting. Insanely good, incredibly complete. Benchmark stuff.  Such a fragrance! This is mind boggling. Wonderful flow length+++. The sophistication of tannins here is insane. Here we see an incredibly complete wine. Such sophistication and power. There’s an elegance and lithe nature to this incredibly powerful beauty. The flowers are intoxicating. Again length +++. The sophisticat
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Giovanni Sordo Barolo 'Perno' MAGNUM 2016
The Bold!
Excellent, immediately took me to the 2010 Riserva. Wonderful density. Every sniff sees another scent wafting out of the glass. Excellent, immediately took me to the 2010 Riserva. Wonderful density. Every sniff sees another scent wafting out of the glass. The tannins show the benefit of a long ripening season. Yes, they have structure, they are damn fine tannins of exceptional depth and length. Hints of tobacco, earth, savoury bits and such a long deep core of fruit. This will develop beautifull
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Cavallotto Barolo Riserva 'Vignolo' 2013
Power + Elegance
Cavallotto's Riserva 'Vignolo' is such a delicious wine, poised, fragrant, such incredible layers of flavour & the rare seamless harmony only the greats seem to manage. Cavallotto are making beautiful wines of great presence, harmony and detail. The Riserva Vignolo is always a little bolder than the Riserva Vigna San Guiseppe. They both have that hallmark Castiglione tannin layered, supple and of line and length. Underbrush, tilled soil, blue flower, pipe tobacco and wild berry aromas mingle to
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Giovanni Sordo Barolo 'Rocche di Castiglione' MAGNUM 2015
The Super Stars!
Brooding and dark, bold structure, while still being supple. There's a trick! Tightly coiled it progressively opened. This will be a special wine in time. So much going on! Fabulous, both in itself and as a contrast to Villero. Where Villero is delicate and persistent, all finesse, Rocche is much more forceful with a similar range of characters. Everything is darker, deeper and more. The glory of this pre-eminent cru is the combo of style and power; how such waves and complexities stay in such l
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Giovanni Sordo Barolo 'Monprivato' 2021
Gardini 97+ ID 95 GW 97

Giovanni Sordo Barolo ‘Monprivato’ 2021

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

A little lift blows off quickly. Serious wine with completeness and intensity. Seamless on palate, the shape and flow is superb. Superb tannin. Layered long and fine. So flowing. When this builds generosity and the acid resolves it will be something special. Elegance and delicacy. Powerful fruit tamed by the acids. Deceptive length and depth. A lovely suite of flavours and aromas.Gardini 97+ Points ID 95 GW 97**Arriving in multiple tranches beginning September + beginning of October 2025
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Vietti Barolo Riserva 2016
2nd Release of Barolo Riserva!

Vietti Barolo Riserva 2016

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Italy

Show the class of the vineyards and the winemakers! The stems in Teodoro, Serralunga (just next to Cerretta) are very ripe, so Vietti use 60% whole clusters to make their Barolo Riserva and then holds it in bottle another 5 years.The idea of the Barolo Riserva was born during continuous experimentations carried out both in the vineyard and in the cellar, for the choice of the grapes that will be used for the Barolo Castiglione. Throughout the years, some very high quality plots have started
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“The 2016 Valpolicella Superiore Monte Lodoletta is intense, with a captivating bouquet that blends cedar shavings, savory herbs and balsamic spices with rum-soaked cherries, sweet lavender and dark chocolate. This sweeps across the palate with silken textures, delivering masses of tart red and black fruits along with hints of espresso bean. Crunchy mineral tones and zesty acidity add dramatic lift. The 2016 tapers off long and staining, sporting a pleasantly bitter tinge of cocoa as grippy ta
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Cappellano Barolo ‘Rupestris’ 2020

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

The 2020 Barolo Rupestris is elegant, sculpted wine. It shows the mid-weight structure of the year nicely. Sweet red cherry fruit, mint, chalk, white pepper, orange peel and dried flowers open with some coaxing. I would leave this alone in the cellar for a few years, as time in bottle is essential here. I won't be surprise if this fills out a bit over the coming years, as is often the case here. Drink 2026-2045Antonio Galloni - NR as per request from Cappellano
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The single best Dardi Le Rose I've seen from Poderi Colla. Serious wine, yet, with a playful side. Excellent tannins, depth and length. A dark note melds into red fruits. Fresh, energetic & layered.  Structured Monforte Tannins with a beautifully weighted presence.Lovely perfume. Earthy, forest floor, with a dash of licorice/tar + so much more going on already! A few years in bottle will see it through the first phase of development and into a very happy place. Plenty of legs on it and
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Figli Luigi Oddero Barolo MAGNUM 2016
A Masterpiece!

Figli Luigi Oddero Barolo MAGNUM 2016

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

On most recent devouring, Oct 2022, the 2016 Barolo is starting to reveal itself.  On release it was clearly something special, now a couple of years on it is a seamless wonder, flow and harmony. A vote for blending across communes, the oppulence of La Morra, the layers, line and length of Castiglione Falletto and the dark structure of Serralunga all making for a complete wine. Plenty more to come!A blend of fruit from 30% La Morra’s Rive, 30% Castiglione Falletto’s Scarrone, &
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Cappellano Barolo ‘Rupestris’ 2019

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

An excellent Rupestris. Cappellano somehow manage to unfurl the Serralunga, Gabutti beast, taming it. Still tightly coiled and needing more time to fully resolve. All the components are there in all the right places and all the right levels, with exceptional Serralunga fruit and tannins. A darkness, brooding, tea and slightly dried orange zest, earthy, savoury, with a core of fruit of great depth and length. 2019 is a year of refined ripe tannins of depth. The fruit has palpable energy and wonde
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