Location

Italy

Ahhh … Italy! Home of renaissance literature, philosophy, science and some of the most heart warming food in the world. From North to South it would be a fair guess to say the only thing outnumbering churches and Vespa’s are the vast areas of vineyards.

One thing is certain, you’ll never run short of choice!

First Records of Wine Production – Go back millennia!

Founding Figures – The Greek colonisation marked a shift from vine grown in the wild to planned viticulture around 800 BC the Romans dramatically expanded production around 200 BC. The Italians never looked back!

Area Planted – Around 700,000 hectares making around 19% of the world’s wine!

Number of Wineries – Soave alone is made by 3,500 producers. That’s around the same number of wineries as in all of Australia! From gargistes to industrial scale conglomerates every Italian has a winemaker in the family.

Established Regions – Every region in Italy produces wine! The most prestigious region Piedmont is home to the stunning Nebbiolos of Barolo & Barbaresco. The Chianti and Brunello of Tuscany following hot on Piedmont’s heals. These are just a drop in the ocean!

In typical Italian style the classification systems of each region vary and are often skewed by influential persons with much to gain over the quality of the industry. As always we need to rely on our taste buds as the ultimate decider of quality!

Most Common VarietiesIn his book ‘Native Wine Grapes of Italy’ Ian D’Agata documents around 500 Italian grape varieties, by no means the complete set! Around 350 of these have been granted authorized status. There’s plenty to try! We’ve seen a push to save some of the notable, rare varietals like the white Nascetta and Arneis from Piedmont. 

Whilst we have seen an ingress of French Varietals, the most notable being the Cabernet Varietals + Syrah used to make the Super Tuscans, the Italians have, by and large stayed true to their roots.

White – Whites of note: Arneis (Piedmont), Cataratto (Sicily), Fiano (southwest coast), Friulano (Friuli), Gargenaga (Veneto – the Soave grape), Greco di Tufo (southwest coast), Malvasia Bianca (throughout Italy), Moscato Blanc (Piedmont), Pecorino (Abruzzo), Pinot Grigo (Why?), Ribolla Gialla (Friulli), Trebbiano (Abruzzo), Verdicchio (Marche) and Vermentino (Sardinia, Tuscany and Liguria).

Red – Aglianico (Campania), Barbera (Piedmont), Corvina blended with Rondinella to make Amarone, Dolcetto (Piedmont), Malvasia Nera (Puglia), Montepuliciano (Tuscany), Nebbiolo (Piedmont), Negaromaro (Puglia), Nero d’Avola (Sicily), Primitivo (Puglia), Sagrantino (Umbria) and Sangiovese (Tuscany).

Up and Coming Regions – Beyond Barolo and Barbaresco, around the world we have seen Amarone, Chianti, Soave, Prosecco, Verdicchio and the wines of Puglia gain strong recognition. In recent times the increasing cost of Barolo in particular has seen exploration of Nebbiolo from Alto Piedmonte and Valtellina. At the opposite end of the country, in part due to the investment of heavy hitters like ‘Barolo Boy’ Marco di Grazie (Terre Nere) and Andrea Franchetti (Passopisciaro) the Nerello Mascelese (red) and Carricante (white) wines of Etna, Sicily have become world recognised. Nerello Mascelese being described as some as the Barolo of the South or a cross between Nebbiolo and Pinot. I prefer to call it delicious!


A Treasure Hunt for the Lost Whites of Italy!


Timorasso ~ Nascetta ~ Erbaluce

3 Italian Whites Saved from Extinction!

Of the thousands of grape varieties that exist, and even more clones of each variety, few make it into our glass.

Many have been lost. Economic reality making them not viable.

Advances in viticulture, changes in climate and the passion of a few individuals have saved a few!

For that we are thankful!


Timorasso


The Saviours

Walter & Claudio along with their shared cellarmaster ‘Pigi’ are both the saviours & masters of Timorasso! The hold some of the oldest plantings making wine of great complexity, texture. Composed & full of personality.

Walter describes his Derthona as a “Modern Antique”.

Monlia Colli Tortonesi Timorasso 2021

Timorasso | Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi

Released 6 months later than the 2020 and it shows immediately. The extra time offers up a beautifully resolved wine. There’s something about the texture, aroma and flavour profile of good Italian white. That silvery line of bitterness that graces the finish. Out to play, seamless, the texture is refined with an excellent phenolic play married to fine acid. When Pietro visited Wine Deoced HQ we talked of the gentle development large oak casks offer whilst retaining freshness in a wine. This is
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NOTE on the 2022: An excellent follow up to the 2021. A slightly more generous iteration. All of the elements once again at play. Texture, clever use of oxidative handling to build intrigue whilst maintaining a core of vibrant fruit and mineral acidity. Citrus zest and oils with pears and a little candied ginger. White flowers dance over the top with a little savoury hit. Flowing and luscious, chalky, savoury, spiced, sapidity in a cleansing way. Plenty of intrigue and interest here. An exceptio
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Vietti Derthona Timorasso Colli Tortonesi 2020

Timorasso | Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi

The latest addition to the Vietti portfolio sees a white from the eastern most border of the Piedmont region. A perfect fit for Vietti with regard to their history of working with varietals of merit that for one reason or another have diminished over time.Timorasso makes beautiful wine the Massa is a cracker. I can't wait to try Vietti's version. With a wonderful array of flavours, textures, and, wonderful acidity the variety is loaded with personality & intrigue.For the 2019: Th
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Vigneti Massa Timorasso 'Derthona' 2022
Delicious!

Vigneti Massa Timorasso ‘Derthona’ 2022

Timorasso | Italy, Colli Tortonesi

From near extinction the Massa family have saved Timorasso, for that I am truly thankful! Massa's Derthona is the perfect introduction to the serious end of the spectrum of Timorasso.The note is a dead ringer for the 2021 although there is perhaps an edge more energy, depth and length in the 2022.Excellent build in depth and length with excellent oxidative line that sits perfectly with fine acid and insane lemon oil and those mega lemons you could eat straight + apricot kernel.. Great de
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Explore all of our Timorasso!


Nascetta


The Saviour

Elvio Cogno with his plantings in Novello, Barolo is turning out intoxicating wines from Nascetta. As he says they need a year or 2 in bottle to reveal their full potential. Grab a 2019 to drink now and 2020 next summer!

Nascetta - Italy's answer to Gewurztraminer. Fragrant, spicy and fresh.This is a fun, youthful wine that is drinking well now but could possibly benefit from a little more time to develop, allowing the fruit and underlying structure to better harmonise. Wonderful aromas come swinging out of the glass, with pops of pity citrus, yellow stone fruits, white blossoms and a line of saline minerality. The palate marries ripe, juicy fruit with a savoury lines of lees and spicy white pepper; gentle p
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Erbaluce


The Champion

Erbaluce can make many styles of from sparkling, late harvest & passito wines.

Antoniolo’s is a wonderfully fresh and crunchy dry white style. The 2020 has settled, resolving beautifully over the last 6 months and is in a wonderful place.

Perfect summer drinking.

Antoniolo Erbaluce d’Caluso DOC 2022

Erbaluce | Italy, Alto Piemonte

If you've never tried Erbaluce before this is a bloody good place to start!Like Timorasso & Nascetta this is a varietal to watch!Tasting the 2020 it was clear that like Cogno's Nascetta, Antoniolo's Erbaluce benefits from a hear in bottle to settle.Notes on the 20202nd Taste Oct 2022 - Very Good, super racy zippy acid coming together nicely resolved filled out. Looks good fun crisp. Perfect summer drinking. Elevage is there. Spice, the overt traminer, savvy b herbaceous t
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Filters & Sorting

Vietti Barbaresco ‘Masseria Roncaglie’ 2021

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barbaresco

Serious gear. The depth and length here is insane. An important Barbaresco with mineral, slatey, tannin structure that flows and cleanses. Serious quality of tannin here. Dark and brooding. Yet the generosity is immediate, a prettiness and sophistication with power. Wonderful delicacy & harmony. Incredibly complex. Incredible persistence. Paul Kaan, WINE DECODED Sept 2025The 2021 Barbaresco Roncaglie is a powerful, tightly wound wine. Blood orange, mint, cinnamon and white peppe
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Giovanni Sordo Barolo ‘Monprivato’ 2019

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

This is the best Monprivato Sordo has made. So I need to go and pop the cork on a 2016 and 2015 ... just to make sure! Sordo's Monprivato has moved up the ladder a couple of rungs this year.The pedigree of this vineyard sees it sitting alongside Villero as one of the finest Barolo vineyards. At ½ the price of Giuseppe Mascarello’s this is exceptional value. An elegance yet intensity, the delicacy that is the hallmark of Monprivato when on song is here. Some would use the term Burgundian,
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Barolo ‘Brunate’ 2019

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

Give it the requisite air time & it reveals all! The 2019 Barolo Brunate emerges from a tiny half-hectare plot at the highest elevation in the vineyard. It presents a beguiling mix of all the balsamic notes typical of Brunate, along with an extra bit of mid-palate texture that comes from aging in a slightly smaller cask vis-a-vis the other Barolos. Firm tannins need time to soften. Drink 2026-2044Antonio Galloni, Vinous 95 PointsPietro highlighted the soil in their Brunate vineyard,
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Classic Cannubi! Savoury, dark & a little broody, just starting to settle. Intrigue and personality on show. Delicacy of expression on the nose. A little licorice, slate and graphite. A powerful palate. Aggression of tannins in a good way that will take time to resolve. Sour cherry and fine acid. An excellent Aleste with all the hallmarks of quality Cannubi.Aleste is a contraction of the names Alessia and Stefano, grandchildren of the late Luciano Sandrone. With fruit from Cannubi Bo
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Roagna Barbaresco Gallina 2016

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barbaresco

The flowers, roses, are showing, the red fruits shining, exceptional harmony, the wine has freshened beautifully in the glass over the course of 15 hours. The earthy and savoury notes fallen into the background. Wonderfully fine, long, slatey tanin, so even, the hallmark of extend maceration grace your tongue making for an entrancing dance with devine acid. Tranparent, and, elegant, the fruit weight here is deceptive, much more depth and length than might initially be percieved. Graceful Gallina
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Roagna Barbaresco Pajè 2016

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barbaresco

The 2016 Barbaresco Pajè is one of the highlights in this range, as it offers gorgeous mid-palate depth with super-classic structure. Dark cherry, tobacco, licorice, leather and deeply-pitched spice accents infuse the 2016 with captivating nuance. The Pajè represents a bridge to the higher-end wines in this range. All of these wines have become pricey, but the Pajè is one of the larger-production wines and consistently delivers superb quality at a more approachable price than many of the othe
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Roagna Barolo Pira 2016

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

On openning the Pira was all beefstock, savoury with a hint of reduction. Revisited with 15 hours in the glass. There you have it DJ Luca has been at it again. The fruit has come to the fore. The faded flowers so common with great wines from Castiglione Falleto are shining along with red fruit, orange and a hint of baking spice. It’s the shape, focus, mouthfeel and exceptional interplay between fruit of depth and length weighted beautifully against long even tannin matched to vibrant acid that
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The 2019 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Colle Vota is intense, trading grace for power in this vintage, with a burst of dried black cherries, dusty sage, roses and Indian spice forming its bouquet. This splashes across the palate, spicy with ultra-ripe wild berry fruits that saturate, expertly balanced by a core of zesty acidity. The 2019 leaves a staining of primary concentration and grippy tannins, puckering the cheeks with youthful tension as salted licorice and balsamic spice notes fade. The 2019 C
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Wildly fresh, the 2021 Trebbiano d'Abruzzo Fonte Canale is impossible to ignore, with a vivid blend of fennel and minty herbs, stone dust, flint and crushed green apples. This flows across the palate with liquid florals and depths of lime-infused orchard fruits, taking on a distinctly salty sensation toward the close. A whiplash of minerality and zesty acidity enlivens the finale as the 2021 finishes with staining concentration yet still vibrant and chiseled. Fonte Canale remains the benchmark f
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“The 2020 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Colle Volta is a spice box on the nose, with wilted violets and hints of spiced-orange, white smoke, clove and dried black cherries. It's pleasantly sweet upon entry, with a cool toned feel and lavender-laced wild berry fruits that gain in tension and complexity as a flinty-mineral concentration forms toward the close. This resonates like liquid velvet, leaving sweet tannins offset by hints of sour citrus, finishing long and potent. The balance within is other
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Roagna Barbaresco Pajè 2017

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barbaresco

Showing a transparent or almost naked quality of fruit, the Roagna 2017 Barbaresco Pajè is a lovely and graceful wine that maintains an exceptional feeling of lightness and elegance despite everything we've heard about this hot and dry vintage. The workmanship is exceptional in the Pajè with chiseled aromas of forest berry, iris root, licorice and a subtle dusting of white pepper. The mouthfeel is characterized by extremely fine tannins.Monica Larner, The Wine Advocate 94+ PointsTh
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Domenico Clerico Barolo ‘Aeroplanservaj’ 2021

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

The Clerico Barolo 'Aeroplanservaj' sees us moving to the Teodore MGA in the Commune of Serralunga. A beautiful perfume, red fruits and vibrant energy. Excellent fruit profile building to show an exceptional mid-palate with faded flowers, tea leaves and blood orange at play. Tannins are bold and firm, grape first and pure. With patience, they will yield something quite beautiful.Paul Kaan, Wine Decoded KO 95'Aeroplanservaj' the Wild Aeroplane was Domenico's father's nickname for his
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