Location

Italy

Ahhh … Italy! Home of renaissance literature, philosophy, science and some of the most heart warming food in the world. From North to South it would be a fair guess to say the only thing outnumbering churches and Vespa’s are the vast areas of vineyards.

One thing is certain, you’ll never run short of choice!

First Records of Wine Production – Go back millennia!

Founding Figures – The Greek colonisation marked a shift from vine grown in the wild to planned viticulture around 800 BC the Romans dramatically expanded production around 200 BC. The Italians never looked back!

Area Planted – Around 700,000 hectares making around 19% of the world’s wine!

Number of Wineries – Soave alone is made by 3,500 producers. That’s around the same number of wineries as in all of Australia! From gargistes to industrial scale conglomerates every Italian has a winemaker in the family.

Established Regions – Every region in Italy produces wine! The most prestigious region Piedmont is home to the stunning Nebbiolos of Barolo & Barbaresco. The Chianti and Brunello of Tuscany following hot on Piedmont’s heals. These are just a drop in the ocean!

In typical Italian style the classification systems of each region vary and are often skewed by influential persons with much to gain over the quality of the industry. As always we need to rely on our taste buds as the ultimate decider of quality!

Most Common VarietiesIn his book ‘Native Wine Grapes of Italy’ Ian D’Agata documents around 500 Italian grape varieties, by no means the complete set! Around 350 of these have been granted authorized status. There’s plenty to try! We’ve seen a push to save some of the notable, rare varietals like the white Nascetta and Arneis from Piedmont. 

Whilst we have seen an ingress of French Varietals, the most notable being the Cabernet Varietals + Syrah used to make the Super Tuscans, the Italians have, by and large stayed true to their roots.

White – Whites of note: Arneis (Piedmont), Cataratto (Sicily), Fiano (southwest coast), Friulano (Friuli), Gargenaga (Veneto – the Soave grape), Greco di Tufo (southwest coast), Malvasia Bianca (throughout Italy), Moscato Blanc (Piedmont), Pecorino (Abruzzo), Pinot Grigo (Why?), Ribolla Gialla (Friulli), Trebbiano (Abruzzo), Verdicchio (Marche) and Vermentino (Sardinia, Tuscany and Liguria).

Red – Aglianico (Campania), Barbera (Piedmont), Corvina blended with Rondinella to make Amarone, Dolcetto (Piedmont), Malvasia Nera (Puglia), Montepuliciano (Tuscany), Nebbiolo (Piedmont), Negaromaro (Puglia), Nero d’Avola (Sicily), Primitivo (Puglia), Sagrantino (Umbria) and Sangiovese (Tuscany).

Up and Coming Regions – Beyond Barolo and Barbaresco, around the world we have seen Amarone, Chianti, Soave, Prosecco, Verdicchio and the wines of Puglia gain strong recognition. In recent times the increasing cost of Barolo in particular has seen exploration of Nebbiolo from Alto Piedmonte and Valtellina. At the opposite end of the country, in part due to the investment of heavy hitters like ‘Barolo Boy’ Marco di Grazie (Terre Nere) and Andrea Franchetti (Passopisciaro) the Nerello Mascelese (red) and Carricante (white) wines of Etna, Sicily have become world recognised. Nerello Mascelese being described as some as the Barolo of the South or a cross between Nebbiolo and Pinot. I prefer to call it delicious!


A Treasure Hunt for the Lost Whites of Italy!


Timorasso ~ Nascetta ~ Erbaluce

3 Italian Whites Saved from Extinction!

Of the thousands of grape varieties that exist, and even more clones of each variety, few make it into our glass.

Many have been lost. Economic reality making them not viable.

Advances in viticulture, changes in climate and the passion of a few individuals have saved a few!

For that we are thankful!


Timorasso


The Saviours

Walter & Claudio along with their shared cellarmaster ‘Pigi’ are both the saviours & masters of Timorasso! The hold some of the oldest plantings making wine of great complexity, texture. Composed & full of personality.

Walter describes his Derthona as a “Modern Antique”.

Monlia Colli Tortonesi Timorasso 2021

Timorasso | Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi

Released 6 months later than the 2020 and it shows immediately. The extra time offers up a beautifully resolved wine. There’s something about the texture, aroma and flavour profile of good Italian white. That silvery line of bitterness that graces the finish. Out to play, seamless, the texture is refined with an excellent phenolic play married to fine acid. When Pietro visited Wine Deoced HQ we talked of the gentle development large oak casks offer whilst retaining freshness in a wine. This is
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NOTE on the 2022: An excellent follow up to the 2021. A slightly more generous iteration. All of the elements once again at play. Texture, clever use of oxidative handling to build intrigue whilst maintaining a core of vibrant fruit and mineral acidity. Citrus zest and oils with pears and a little candied ginger. White flowers dance over the top with a little savoury hit. Flowing and luscious, chalky, savoury, spiced, sapidity in a cleansing way. Plenty of intrigue and interest here. An exceptio
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Vietti Derthona Timorasso Colli Tortonesi 2020

Timorasso | Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi

The latest addition to the Vietti portfolio sees a white from the eastern most border of the Piedmont region. A perfect fit for Vietti with regard to their history of working with varietals of merit that for one reason or another have diminished over time.Timorasso makes beautiful wine the Massa is a cracker. I can't wait to try Vietti's version. With a wonderful array of flavours, textures, and, wonderful acidity the variety is loaded with personality & intrigue.For the 2019: Th
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Vigneti Massa Timorasso 'Derthona' 2022
Delicious!

Vigneti Massa Timorasso ‘Derthona’ 2022

Timorasso | Italy, Colli Tortonesi

From near extinction the Massa family have saved Timorasso, for that I am truly thankful! Massa's Derthona is the perfect introduction to the serious end of the spectrum of Timorasso.The note is a dead ringer for the 2021 although there is perhaps an edge more energy, depth and length in the 2022.Excellent build in depth and length with excellent oxidative line that sits perfectly with fine acid and insane lemon oil and those mega lemons you could eat straight + apricot kernel.. Great de
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Explore all of our Timorasso!


Nascetta


The Saviour

Elvio Cogno with his plantings in Novello, Barolo is turning out intoxicating wines from Nascetta. As he says they need a year or 2 in bottle to reveal their full potential. Grab a 2019 to drink now and 2020 next summer!

Nascetta - Italy's answer to Gewurztraminer. Fragrant, spicy and fresh.This is a fun, youthful wine that is drinking well now but could possibly benefit from a little more time to develop, allowing the fruit and underlying structure to better harmonise. Wonderful aromas come swinging out of the glass, with pops of pity citrus, yellow stone fruits, white blossoms and a line of saline minerality. The palate marries ripe, juicy fruit with a savoury lines of lees and spicy white pepper; gentle p
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Erbaluce


The Champion

Erbaluce can make many styles of from sparkling, late harvest & passito wines.

Antoniolo’s is a wonderfully fresh and crunchy dry white style. The 2020 has settled, resolving beautifully over the last 6 months and is in a wonderful place.

Perfect summer drinking.

Antoniolo Erbaluce d’Caluso DOC 2022

Erbaluce | Italy, Alto Piemonte

If you've never tried Erbaluce before this is a bloody good place to start!Like Timorasso & Nascetta this is a varietal to watch!Tasting the 2020 it was clear that like Cogno's Nascetta, Antoniolo's Erbaluce benefits from a hear in bottle to settle.Notes on the 20202nd Taste Oct 2022 - Very Good, super racy zippy acid coming together nicely resolved filled out. Looks good fun crisp. Perfect summer drinking. Elevage is there. Spice, the overt traminer, savvy b herbaceous t
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Filters & Sorting

Gorelli Brunello di Montalcino 2019

Sangiovese | Tuscany, Italy

Gorelli's 2018 put them on them firmly on our radar! If that's what they can do in 2018 imagine how the 2019 will drink! Brunello di Montalcino comes in a vast array of guises from the super bold structured ones with oak (not my cuppa), the dark rich yet mid-weight with a line of substantial yet refined tannins, & the perfumed, poised, delicate Brunellos with plush fine tannins. At this, Burgundian end, we see Poggio di Sotto and Soldera. Today we add one more to that list Gorelli. It's not
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Luigi Pira Barolo ‘Vigna Rionda’ 2021

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

In recent times, Vigna Rionda gets spoken about as the grand cru of the Langhe – altitude, exposure and soil profile play an integral part.As expected, this is Giampaolo’s flagship wine. The oak regime is similar to the ‘Marenca’ but with a larger portion of newer oak – around 30%.Ultra-powerful and layered in fragrances, flavours and textures. Smoke, graphite, incense, stock/porcini, sweet tobacco, violets. All this character is underpinned by a fierce, tingling acid line and
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Roagna Barbaresco Faset 2013

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barbaresco

In 2013 Roagna began a collaboration with the owner of the historic vineyard Faset in Barbaresco. 2013 was our first year of production. Faset is a historic cru, close to Asili and the Rocche di Barbaresco which produces incredibly elegant wines. This little parcel is South West exposed. Receives the same vineyard work, 60 days […]
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Roagna Barolo del Comune di Barolo 2013

Nebbiolo | Italy, Barolo

About Roagna Reading Roagna’s manifesto with my Vigneron’s cap on, it’s clear that they are driven to achieve excellence. In many ways, their approach reminds me of Yarra Yering. Pushing the boundaries with so many aspects of viticulture and winemaking, taking calculated risks, that, when successful, result in what are undoubtedly some of the best […]
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Giuseppe Cortese Barbaresco Rabajà Riserva 2013

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barbaresco

🍇RABAJÀ RABAJÀ RABAJÀ 🇮🇹 All savoury and stocky, lots of black tea and supple woody herbs. Impressive tannins even long plush mouthfeel. A layer of slatey tannins of supreme quality sit in harmony with the equally long and even core of fruit.There’s a lot going on, still opening in the glass and building nicely. The perfume and fruit on show now! Impressive P.1.S.S. Flavour linger for ages. Seriously good vino. A little hint of truffle building into the mix. Pops of fennel and
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The 2019 Barolo Mosconi is the most potent of the three Barolos in the range. It exudes Monforte darkness and virile intensity from the very first taste. Black cherry, plum, mocha, sage, tar, lavender and spice infuse the 2019 with tons of character. This is one of the most elegant wines I have ever tasted from Mosconi, a site that does not naturally lend itself to finesse.Antonio Galloni, Vinous 98 Points
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This is the replanted portion of Vigna Rionda, stil too young to be worthy of the Barolo classification. The 2019 was awarded 98 Points by the Wine Doctor.Crafted by Davide Rosso and Andrea Delpiano from their Serralunga d’Alba estate vineyards. The purity of expression of nebbiolo is breathtaking, and while many of us will find it challenging to wait, these are wines of considerable ageing potential.
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From high density plantings of Cabernet and Petit Verdot. This show how good Bordeaux blends can be in Italy and just how different they are from their French counterparts! Jumping from 4,000 vines a hectare to 8-10,000. Grown as bush vines. Immediate oppulence and generosity on the nose. The structural element from the tannin are very different from the tannins of Bordeaux, edgy again in a good way.  Such complexity with a layer of macerative characters and the perfume they can offer. Vibrant
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Giovanni Rosso Barolo ‘Cerretta’ 2016

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

Owned by the Rosso family since 1920, the plot was partly replanted in 1984 and 2000. Situated about 2 miles (3km) to the north of Serralunga village, Cerretta lies close to the hamlet of Baudana and envelops that of Cerretta.The fruit for this Cru wine comes from the best parcel which is shaped like an amphitheatre facing south-east. This part of the vineyard provides a particularly good micro-climate for Nebbiolo since it is protected from stronger winds by the copse at the bottom of the s
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Margherita Otto ‘M8’ Barolo 2016

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

This one's another argument for blending sites! From a disciple of Maria Theresa Mascarello. The 2016 M8 is a blend of Castiglione Falletto, Monforte & Serralunga fruit! I rarely buy wine site unseen. In this case I couldn't resist! The story and experience behind Allan Manley's launch of his own venture has him working with a veritable who's who of Barolo ending with Maria Theresa Mascarello where he still works. As you might expect he's a proponent of blended Barolo vs single cru. I can't wait
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The E. Pira e Figli - Chiara Boschis 2021 Barolo Mosconi is structured, linear and ultimately quite mineral in character compared to the Cannubi. Its firm underlying architecture is rendered light and fragrant thanks to aromas of blue flower, grilled herb (with both rosemary and aniseed) and pulverized stone. Fruit comes from a site in Monforte d'Alba at a cool 370 meters in elevation. I came back to this bottle 24 hours after my first tasting and remarked on the elegant, chalky nature of the ta
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Castello dei Rampolla ‘d’Alceo’ 2018

Red Blend | Tuscany, Chianti Classico

This show how good Bordeaux blends can be in Italy and just how different they are from their French counterparts! Jumping from 4,000 vines a hectare to 8-10,000. Grown as bush vines. Immediate oppulence and generosity on the nose. The structural element from the tannin are very different from the tannins of Bordeaux, edgy again in a good way.  Such complexity with a layer of macerative characters and the perfume they can offer. Vibrant acidity and flowers from the Petit Verdot. d'Alceo is a wo
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