Location

Italy

Ahhh … Italy! Home of renaissance literature, philosophy, science and some of the most heart warming food in the world. From North to South it would be a fair guess to say the only thing outnumbering churches and Vespa’s are the vast areas of vineyards.

One thing is certain, you’ll never run short of choice!

First Records of Wine Production – Go back millennia!

Founding Figures – The Greek colonisation marked a shift from vine grown in the wild to planned viticulture around 800 BC the Romans dramatically expanded production around 200 BC. The Italians never looked back!

Area Planted – Around 700,000 hectares making around 19% of the world’s wine!

Number of Wineries – Soave alone is made by 3,500 producers. That’s around the same number of wineries as in all of Australia! From gargistes to industrial scale conglomerates every Italian has a winemaker in the family.

Established Regions – Every region in Italy produces wine! The most prestigious region Piedmont is home to the stunning Nebbiolos of Barolo & Barbaresco. The Chianti and Brunello of Tuscany following hot on Piedmont’s heals. These are just a drop in the ocean!

In typical Italian style the classification systems of each region vary and are often skewed by influential persons with much to gain over the quality of the industry. As always we need to rely on our taste buds as the ultimate decider of quality!

Most Common VarietiesIn his book ‘Native Wine Grapes of Italy’ Ian D’Agata documents around 500 Italian grape varieties, by no means the complete set! Around 350 of these have been granted authorized status. There’s plenty to try! We’ve seen a push to save some of the notable, rare varietals like the white Nascetta and Arneis from Piedmont. 

Whilst we have seen an ingress of French Varietals, the most notable being the Cabernet Varietals + Syrah used to make the Super Tuscans, the Italians have, by and large stayed true to their roots.

White – Whites of note: Arneis (Piedmont), Cataratto (Sicily), Fiano (southwest coast), Friulano (Friuli), Gargenaga (Veneto – the Soave grape), Greco di Tufo (southwest coast), Malvasia Bianca (throughout Italy), Moscato Blanc (Piedmont), Pecorino (Abruzzo), Pinot Grigo (Why?), Ribolla Gialla (Friulli), Trebbiano (Abruzzo), Verdicchio (Marche) and Vermentino (Sardinia, Tuscany and Liguria).

Red – Aglianico (Campania), Barbera (Piedmont), Corvina blended with Rondinella to make Amarone, Dolcetto (Piedmont), Malvasia Nera (Puglia), Montepuliciano (Tuscany), Nebbiolo (Piedmont), Negaromaro (Puglia), Nero d’Avola (Sicily), Primitivo (Puglia), Sagrantino (Umbria) and Sangiovese (Tuscany).

Up and Coming Regions – Beyond Barolo and Barbaresco, around the world we have seen Amarone, Chianti, Soave, Prosecco, Verdicchio and the wines of Puglia gain strong recognition. In recent times the increasing cost of Barolo in particular has seen exploration of Nebbiolo from Alto Piedmonte and Valtellina. At the opposite end of the country, in part due to the investment of heavy hitters like ‘Barolo Boy’ Marco di Grazie (Terre Nere) and Andrea Franchetti (Passopisciaro) the Nerello Mascelese (red) and Carricante (white) wines of Etna, Sicily have become world recognised. Nerello Mascelese being described as some as the Barolo of the South or a cross between Nebbiolo and Pinot. I prefer to call it delicious!


A Treasure Hunt for the Lost Whites of Italy!


Timorasso ~ Nascetta ~ Erbaluce

3 Italian Whites Saved from Extinction!

Of the thousands of grape varieties that exist, and even more clones of each variety, few make it into our glass.

Many have been lost. Economic reality making them not viable.

Advances in viticulture, changes in climate and the passion of a few individuals have saved a few!

For that we are thankful!


Timorasso


The Saviours

Walter & Claudio along with their shared cellarmaster ‘Pigi’ are both the saviours & masters of Timorasso! The hold some of the oldest plantings making wine of great complexity, texture. Composed & full of personality.

Walter describes his Derthona as a “Modern Antique”.

Monlia Colli Tortonesi Timorasso 2021

Timorasso | Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi

Released 6 months later than the 2020 and it shows immediately. The extra time offers up a beautifully resolved wine. There’s something about the texture, aroma and flavour profile of good Italian white. That silvery line of bitterness that graces the finish. Out to play, seamless, the texture is refined with an excellent phenolic play married to fine acid. When Pietro visited Wine Deoced HQ we talked of the gentle development large oak casks offer whilst retaining freshness in a wine. This is
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NOTE on the 2022: An excellent follow up to the 2021. A slightly more generous iteration. All of the elements once again at play. Texture, clever use of oxidative handling to build intrigue whilst maintaining a core of vibrant fruit and mineral acidity. Citrus zest and oils with pears and a little candied ginger. White flowers dance over the top with a little savoury hit. Flowing and luscious, chalky, savoury, spiced, sapidity in a cleansing way. Plenty of intrigue and interest here. An exceptio
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Vietti Derthona Timorasso Colli Tortonesi 2020

Timorasso | Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi

The latest addition to the Vietti portfolio sees a white from the eastern most border of the Piedmont region. A perfect fit for Vietti with regard to their history of working with varietals of merit that for one reason or another have diminished over time.Timorasso makes beautiful wine the Massa is a cracker. I can't wait to try Vietti's version. With a wonderful array of flavours, textures, and, wonderful acidity the variety is loaded with personality & intrigue.For the 2019: Th
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Vigneti Massa Timorasso 'Derthona' 2022
Delicious!

Vigneti Massa Timorasso ‘Derthona’ 2022

Timorasso | Italy, Colli Tortonesi

From near extinction the Massa family have saved Timorasso, for that I am truly thankful! Massa's Derthona is the perfect introduction to the serious end of the spectrum of Timorasso.The note is a dead ringer for the 2021 although there is perhaps an edge more energy, depth and length in the 2022.Excellent build in depth and length with excellent oxidative line that sits perfectly with fine acid and insane lemon oil and those mega lemons you could eat straight + apricot kernel.. Great de
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Explore all of our Timorasso!


Nascetta


The Saviour

Elvio Cogno with his plantings in Novello, Barolo is turning out intoxicating wines from Nascetta. As he says they need a year or 2 in bottle to reveal their full potential. Grab a 2019 to drink now and 2020 next summer!

Nascetta - Italy's answer to Gewurztraminer. Fragrant, spicy and fresh.This is a fun, youthful wine that is drinking well now but could possibly benefit from a little more time to develop, allowing the fruit and underlying structure to better harmonise. Wonderful aromas come swinging out of the glass, with pops of pity citrus, yellow stone fruits, white blossoms and a line of saline minerality. The palate marries ripe, juicy fruit with a savoury lines of lees and spicy white pepper; gentle p
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Erbaluce


The Champion

Erbaluce can make many styles of from sparkling, late harvest & passito wines.

Antoniolo’s is a wonderfully fresh and crunchy dry white style. The 2020 has settled, resolving beautifully over the last 6 months and is in a wonderful place.

Perfect summer drinking.

Antoniolo Erbaluce d’Caluso DOC 2022

Erbaluce | Italy, Alto Piemonte

If you've never tried Erbaluce before this is a bloody good place to start!Like Timorasso & Nascetta this is a varietal to watch!Tasting the 2020 it was clear that like Cogno's Nascetta, Antoniolo's Erbaluce benefits from a hear in bottle to settle.Notes on the 20202nd Taste Oct 2022 - Very Good, super racy zippy acid coming together nicely resolved filled out. Looks good fun crisp. Perfect summer drinking. Elevage is there. Spice, the overt traminer, savvy b herbaceous t
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Filters & Sorting

The Dolcetto grapes we produce come from our own vineyards, where we find soils typical of the Helvetian region (ancient in origin, calcareous-clayey with shades of pale gray and pink. Alternating layers also include siliceous sandstone, calcium carbonate, and iron). The color is intense ruby red with purple highlights. The persistent floral and fruity aromas of sweet violets and small red fruits give it a pleasant immediacy. Its moderate tannins and balanced, elegant structure make it the quint
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Loads of fun to be had here. The acid balance with the fruit weight is about right. Energy here with vibrant red fruit, sour cherries, a little of that alpine spice. Heston Blumenthal once did mince tarts that were topped with sugar mixed with ground pine needles and it worked. There’s a little of that sitting here in the background. The tannins aren’t quite as polished as those in the wines of Fay or Ar.Pe.Pe. Slightly drying on the mid palate. A little salami or a plate of something roaste

Massolino Langhe Nebbiolo 2021

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Italy

A great way to get your eye in on the 2021 vintage! Vibrant with loads of energy & zippy fresh acid, slatey & mineral, dark, with tobacco at play. Perfumed, fine. Roses and red fruits, a little resinous note, fine long & plenty of fun. Dusting/chalky tannins making for a good complex with the acid. Again we see the low pH offering freshness. The site near Monforte d’Alba  adds altitude freshness, Alba fruit (power), Serralunga freshness and elegance. This spends 15month large
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Fèlsina Chianti Classio DOCG ‘Beradenga’ 2021

Sangiovese | Tuscany, Castelnuovo Berardenga UGA

The Perfect intro to the Fascinating Chiantis of Fèlsina! I have to agree with Galloni, the 2021 shows a welcome level of refinement and sophistication.Dark and brooding spice with sour cherries, lovely tannins. A lot going on here. Layered, with excellent drive and energy. Fine acid. It’s the intensity with the finesse, the richness yet elegance. It seems almost a wine in two parts. Lovely shape to the palate, linear yet with some excellent mid-palate generosity. This is the perfect frie
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With fruit sourced from the Contradas of San Lorenzo, Feudo and Calderara Sottana there is some serious pedigree to the vineyards and it shows in the wine! A strong a’Rina from Giuseppe. Earthy, savoury nicely spiced with a little herbal note. Super fine elegant tannins. A little musk and violets over the top. Slate, plum and beyond. A classic example of Etna Rosso.The 2023 Etna Rosso A Rina watts up with a savory protile, mixing woodland berry with nuances of sage, wet concrete and a
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Ar.Pe.Pe Rosso di Valtellina 2023

Nebbiolo | Valtellina, Grumello

Savoury, ferrous and bloody with a dusting of tannins. Lovely development. Fine a good expression of Chiavanesca from Valtellinas. Dark cherry, lacing of licorice. Beautifully weighted and flowing. Ar.Pe.Pe doing their thing!Paul Kaan, WINEDECODED Oct 2025
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Passopisciaro Passorosso Nerello Mascelese 2022

Nerello Mascalese | Sicily, Etna

These wines are spectacular, loaded with personality, a true expression of extreme sites! Made from Nerello Mascelese, some call it the Barolo of the South, others a cross between Pinot & Nebbiolo. I prefer to say it is itself & delicious. The vineyards of Etna have undergone a major renaissance in the last couple of decades. Passipisciaro has been one of the wineries at the forefront. I was blown away the first time I tasted this wine.The 2022 Passorosso is delicious! Eric Guido's n
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Sandro Fay Valtellina Superiore Valgella 2022
Previously Labelled as 'Costa Basa'

Sandro Fay Valtellina Superiore Valgella 2022

Nebbiolo | Valtellina, Italy

Yet another successful 'Costa Bassa' from Fay! Thoughts read pretty much the same as for the delicious 2020 & 2019. Loads of pleasure here, the harmony, and, the inviting, drink me, nature of the wine is just the beginning. It really has everything in all the right places.Excellent. Got that whole alpine thing going on. Excellent weight and shape to it. Playful dusty chalky slightly chewy tannins with fine boned acid. Violets, a little plum, sour cherry with licorice and a hint of smoke,
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The term "Rosso Toscano" usually indicates an inexpensive wine made for everyday drinking. But in this case, the wine is essentially a Super Tuscan, made from a blend of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Not a drop of Sangiovese, but it's unmistakably Tuscan — intense and concentrated, with a seductive tonal palate and enough body and tannic grip to age and evolve.The second label of Tenuta di Trinoro, Le Cupole was first produced in 1995. It is a blend of Cabern
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Many of Barolo's greats would argue that you should judge a maker on their Dolcetto before their Nebbiolo! Giacosa does Dolcetto justice. The missing links for Dolcetto are typically sorting reduction and developing the wine sufficiently. Giacosa jumps those hurdles with ease and breezes past the finish line with quality fruit & considered handling to offer us a wine with a refined mouthfeel.Savoury, vibrant, dark, with an excellent core of fruit thirst-quenching and delicious. Straight
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Pieropan Soave ‘Calvarino’ 2023

White Blend | Veneto, Italy

The name 'Calvarino' translates to 'small ordeal'. Andrea Pieropan told us it was named after the hill Jesus was crucified on, reflecting how difficult the soil is to work and the tortuous path which winds from top to bottom.A ripping Calvarino. A smidge fuller than general with the acid to hold it. As usual, the fresher of the 2 Cru wines. Excellent core of vibrant fruit with loads going on. It feels like there's been a little more work on textural components and mid-palate weigh
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San Giusto a Rentennano Chianti Classico 2022

Red Blend | Tuscany, Chianti Classico

The organic San Giusto a Rentennano 2022 Chianti Classico offers dark fruit with crunchy cherry and a hint of rosemary twig that comes from the grapes and the skins. These qualities give the wine a balanced primary approach in which fruit integrity is front and center. The bouquet is bright and well-dosed in terms of its immediate power and accessibility. This is one of the vintage's best expressions at this price point.Monica Larner, The Wine Advocate 93 PointsFinally got my laughin
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