Location

Italy

Ahhh … Italy! Home of renaissance literature, philosophy, science and some of the most heart warming food in the world. From North to South it would be a fair guess to say the only thing outnumbering churches and Vespa’s are the vast areas of vineyards.

One thing is certain, you’ll never run short of choice!

First Records of Wine Production – Go back millennia!

Founding Figures – The Greek colonisation marked a shift from vine grown in the wild to planned viticulture around 800 BC the Romans dramatically expanded production around 200 BC. The Italians never looked back!

Area Planted – Around 700,000 hectares making around 19% of the world’s wine!

Number of Wineries – Soave alone is made by 3,500 producers. That’s around the same number of wineries as in all of Australia! From gargistes to industrial scale conglomerates every Italian has a winemaker in the family.

Established Regions – Every region in Italy produces wine! The most prestigious region Piedmont is home to the stunning Nebbiolos of Barolo & Barbaresco. The Chianti and Brunello of Tuscany following hot on Piedmont’s heals. These are just a drop in the ocean!

In typical Italian style the classification systems of each region vary and are often skewed by influential persons with much to gain over the quality of the industry. As always we need to rely on our taste buds as the ultimate decider of quality!

Most Common VarietiesIn his book ‘Native Wine Grapes of Italy’ Ian D’Agata documents around 500 Italian grape varieties, by no means the complete set! Around 350 of these have been granted authorized status. There’s plenty to try! We’ve seen a push to save some of the notable, rare varietals like the white Nascetta and Arneis from Piedmont. 

Whilst we have seen an ingress of French Varietals, the most notable being the Cabernet Varietals + Syrah used to make the Super Tuscans, the Italians have, by and large stayed true to their roots.

White – Whites of note: Arneis (Piedmont), Cataratto (Sicily), Fiano (southwest coast), Friulano (Friuli), Gargenaga (Veneto – the Soave grape), Greco di Tufo (southwest coast), Malvasia Bianca (throughout Italy), Moscato Blanc (Piedmont), Pecorino (Abruzzo), Pinot Grigo (Why?), Ribolla Gialla (Friulli), Trebbiano (Abruzzo), Verdicchio (Marche) and Vermentino (Sardinia, Tuscany and Liguria).

Red – Aglianico (Campania), Barbera (Piedmont), Corvina blended with Rondinella to make Amarone, Dolcetto (Piedmont), Malvasia Nera (Puglia), Montepuliciano (Tuscany), Nebbiolo (Piedmont), Negaromaro (Puglia), Nero d’Avola (Sicily), Primitivo (Puglia), Sagrantino (Umbria) and Sangiovese (Tuscany).

Up and Coming Regions – Beyond Barolo and Barbaresco, around the world we have seen Amarone, Chianti, Soave, Prosecco, Verdicchio and the wines of Puglia gain strong recognition. In recent times the increasing cost of Barolo in particular has seen exploration of Nebbiolo from Alto Piedmonte and Valtellina. At the opposite end of the country, in part due to the investment of heavy hitters like ‘Barolo Boy’ Marco di Grazie (Terre Nere) and Andrea Franchetti (Passopisciaro) the Nerello Mascelese (red) and Carricante (white) wines of Etna, Sicily have become world recognised. Nerello Mascelese being described as some as the Barolo of the South or a cross between Nebbiolo and Pinot. I prefer to call it delicious!


A Treasure Hunt for the Lost Whites of Italy!


Timorasso ~ Nascetta ~ Erbaluce

3 Italian Whites Saved from Extinction!

Of the thousands of grape varieties that exist, and even more clones of each variety, few make it into our glass.

Many have been lost. Economic reality making them not viable.

Advances in viticulture, changes in climate and the passion of a few individuals have saved a few!

For that we are thankful!


Timorasso


The Saviours

Walter & Claudio along with their shared cellarmaster ‘Pigi’ are both the saviours & masters of Timorasso! The hold some of the oldest plantings making wine of great complexity, texture. Composed & full of personality.

Walter describes his Derthona as a “Modern Antique”.

Monlia Colli Tortonesi Timorasso 2021

Timorasso | Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi

Released 6 months later than the 2020 and it shows immediately. The extra time offers up a beautifully resolved wine. There’s something about the texture, aroma and flavour profile of good Italian white. That silvery line of bitterness that graces the finish. Out to play, seamless, the texture is refined with an excellent phenolic play married to fine acid. When Pietro visited Wine Deoced HQ we talked of the gentle development large oak casks offer whilst retaining freshness in a wine. This is
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NOTE on the 2022: An excellent follow up to the 2021. A slightly more generous iteration. All of the elements once again at play. Texture, clever use of oxidative handling to build intrigue whilst maintaining a core of vibrant fruit and mineral acidity. Citrus zest and oils with pears and a little candied ginger. White flowers dance over the top with a little savoury hit. Flowing and luscious, chalky, savoury, spiced, sapidity in a cleansing way. Plenty of intrigue and interest here. An exceptio
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Vietti Derthona Timorasso Colli Tortonesi 2020

Timorasso | Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi

The latest addition to the Vietti portfolio sees a white from the eastern most border of the Piedmont region. A perfect fit for Vietti with regard to their history of working with varietals of merit that for one reason or another have diminished over time.Timorasso makes beautiful wine the Massa is a cracker. I can't wait to try Vietti's version. With a wonderful array of flavours, textures, and, wonderful acidity the variety is loaded with personality & intrigue.For the 2019: Th
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Vigneti Massa Timorasso 'Derthona' 2022
Delicious!

Vigneti Massa Timorasso ‘Derthona’ 2022

Timorasso | Italy, Colli Tortonesi

From near extinction the Massa family have saved Timorasso, for that I am truly thankful! Massa's Derthona is the perfect introduction to the serious end of the spectrum of Timorasso.The note is a dead ringer for the 2021 although there is perhaps an edge more energy, depth and length in the 2022.Excellent build in depth and length with excellent oxidative line that sits perfectly with fine acid and insane lemon oil and those mega lemons you could eat straight + apricot kernel.. Great de
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Explore all of our Timorasso!


Nascetta


The Saviour

Elvio Cogno with his plantings in Novello, Barolo is turning out intoxicating wines from Nascetta. As he says they need a year or 2 in bottle to reveal their full potential. Grab a 2019 to drink now and 2020 next summer!

Nascetta - Italy's answer to Gewurztraminer. Fragrant, spicy and fresh.This is a fun, youthful wine that is drinking well now but could possibly benefit from a little more time to develop, allowing the fruit and underlying structure to better harmonise. Wonderful aromas come swinging out of the glass, with pops of pity citrus, yellow stone fruits, white blossoms and a line of saline minerality. The palate marries ripe, juicy fruit with a savoury lines of lees and spicy white pepper; gentle p
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Erbaluce


The Champion

Erbaluce can make many styles of from sparkling, late harvest & passito wines.

Antoniolo’s is a wonderfully fresh and crunchy dry white style. The 2020 has settled, resolving beautifully over the last 6 months and is in a wonderful place.

Perfect summer drinking.

Antoniolo Erbaluce d’Caluso DOC 2022

Erbaluce | Italy, Alto Piemonte

If you've never tried Erbaluce before this is a bloody good place to start!Like Timorasso & Nascetta this is a varietal to watch!Tasting the 2020 it was clear that like Cogno's Nascetta, Antoniolo's Erbaluce benefits from a hear in bottle to settle.Notes on the 20202nd Taste Oct 2022 - Very Good, super racy zippy acid coming together nicely resolved filled out. Looks good fun crisp. Perfect summer drinking. Elevage is there. Spice, the overt traminer, savvy b herbaceous t
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Filters & Sorting

Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva 'Asili' 2020
AG 96 ML 95 KO 97
The 2020 Barbaresco Riserva Asili is gorgeous. It offers a beguiling mix of intense fruit and supporting structure. A wine of depth and complexity, Asili has a lot of everything. It is clearly a step or two above many of the wines in this range. Today, the 2020 comes across as a bit somber, but that may partly be a reflection of its recent bottling. There's gorgeous depth and resonance in the Asili.Antonio Galloni, Vinous 96 PointsThe Produttori del Barbaresco 2020 Barbaresco Ris
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Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva 'Rio Sordo' 2020
AG 94 ML 94 KO 96
The 2020 Barbaresco Riserva Rio Sordo is pretty closed today, which is probably a very good sign for its aging prospects, as this site tends to produce wines that are more open than this. Dark cherry, plum, leather, incense and tobacco offer a decidedly somber expression of Rio Sordo. The 2020 clearly needs time.Antonio Galloni, Vinous 94 PointsThe Produttori del Barbaresco 2020 Barbaresco Riserva Rio Sordo comes from an area that is further removed from the Tanaro River and has sout
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Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva 'Pora' 2020
AG 93 ML 93 KO 94

Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva ‘Pora’ 2020

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barbaresco

The 2020 Barbaresco Riserva Pora is aromatic, effusive and quite charming. Crushed flowers, spice, leather, tobacco and cedar lend notable inner sweetness. Medium in body and gracious, the Pora is pretty approachable today, although it will be better with a few years in bottle. This is a very beautiful, vivid Pora and a fine introduction to the Riservas.Antonio Galloni, Vinous 93 Points This is the first wine served in a flight of nine that increase in intensity and power moving for
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Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva 'Pajé' 2020
AG 95 ML 93 KO 95
The 2020 Barbaresco Riserva Pajè is a classic wine from this site. Deeply spiced and balsamic notes meld into a core of dark, sepia-toned Nebbiolo fruit. A Barbaresco of real presence and substance, the Pajè makes itself felt. It's one of my early dark horse favorites in this range from Produttori del Barbaresco.Antonio Galloni, Vinous 95 PointsThe Pajè vineyard faces the Tanaro River and is tucked at back of a narrow theater of vines. The site is often characterized by a floral n
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Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva 'Muncogato' 2020
AG 94 ML 94 KO 95
The 2020 Barbaresco Riserva Muncagota comes across as somewhat austere today, which is pretty atypical. Floral, mint and white pepper lend notable aromatic brilliance. Deceptively medium in body, the 2020 offers plenty of drive. Floral, savory and mineral notes extend the intense, saline finish. I am curious to taste this again with more time in bottle.Antonio Galloni, Vinous 94 Points The Produttori del Barbaresco 2020 Barbaresco Riserva Muncagota is quite powerful and ample but no
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Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva 'Ovello' 2020
AG 95 ML 95 KO 95
The 2020 Barbaresco Riserva Ovello is a massive, packed wine. Graphite, crushed rocks, dried herbs and cedar open first. Ovello tends to produce a more linear style of Barbaresco, and that is very much the case here as well. However, the 2020 also possesses notable depth and layers in the mid-palate. It's a gorgeous wine in the making.Antonio Galloni, Vinous 95 Points The Ovello vineyard has some northern exposures and generally represents a cooler growing site. You can expect inten
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Vajra Barolo ‘Bricco delle Viole’ 2021

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

What a wine! So complete, incredible, layered complex, beautifully perfumed with the earth, slate and undergrowth to balance it. The very definition of a complete Barolo. The acid tannin complex is impeccable. The core and length of fruit is divine. Simply so much going on. Savoury, dark, brooding this will be a special wine with time in bottle. A lacing of the finest black tea supporting exceptional tannins. There are not enough superlatives.Paul Kaan, Wine DecodedThe organic G.D. V
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Vajra Barolo ‘Ravera’ 2021

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

UPDATE: Here's the double cross ... This is Ravera di Novello. I interviewed Eugene Qiao of Vajra and we laughed about the same thing. I forgot to amend the note. The triple cross is that Eugene informed me that the particular part of Ravera in Novella where their holding are has different soils that are much closer to the Ravera in Monforte than in Novello. I was making my note based on the structure looking a little more like Monforte!On the back of drinking all the 2021 Clerico's from
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Luigi Pira Barolo ‘Marenca’ 2021

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

Classic south/south-west exposure. The only difference in the vinification process is the oak maturation. Around 50% goes into large-format aged botti and the remainder in tonneaux, partially new (1 year in tonneaux and 1 year in large botti).‘Marenca’ is only offered as a cru Barolo by Pira – the other owner, Angelo Gaja, use theirs (along with their ‘Margheria’) in Barolo ‘Sperss’.The nose is fresh, with complex aromas that range from wild berries to dark chocolate and dr
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E. Pira (Chiara Boschis) Barolo ‘Via Nuova’ 2018

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Italy

This one's an argument for blending sites! The 2017 Barolo Via Nuova is a blend of seven plots from Barolo, Monforte & Serralunga! This one’s an argument for blending sites! The 2018 Barolo Via Nuova is an organic blend of fruit from six MGA sites: Terlo and Liste (in Barolo), Ravera di Monforte and Mosconi (in Monforte d’Alba) and Gabutti and Baudana (in Serralunga d’Alba).2018 is restrained in feel, but all the elements are so well balanced. Freshly cut flowers, mint, crushed ro
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Luigi Baudana Barolo ‘Baudana’ 2021

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

Nebbiolo, Barolo, Serralunga, Baudana = Enough Said! The 2021 Barolo Baudana is another super-sensual wine from the estate. Silky tannins wrap around a core of red cherry/red plum fruit, blood orange, cinnamon and flowers. A wine with striking inner perfume, the 2021 is captivating from start to finish.Antonio Galloni, Vinous 95 Points 95 ML
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Luigi Baudana Barolo ‘Cerretta’ 2021

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

Nebbiolo, Barolo, Serralunga, Cerretta = Enough Said! Starting off a bit slower than the other wines in this flight, the Luigi Baudana 2021 Barolo Cerretta is quite nervous and tightly wound at this point. Cerretta in Serralunga d’Alba is known for its powerful, age-worthy wines. Despite that initial shyness, this bottle does reveal layers of sweet fruit, grenadine and tart cherry. The wine is nicely balanced with chalky, elegant tannins. Monica Larner, The Wine Advocate 95+ Points AG 95
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