Location

Italy

Ahhh … Italy! Home of renaissance literature, philosophy, science and some of the most heart warming food in the world. From North to South it would be a fair guess to say the only thing outnumbering churches and Vespa’s are the vast areas of vineyards.

One thing is certain, you’ll never run short of choice!

First Records of Wine Production – Go back millennia!

Founding Figures – The Greek colonisation marked a shift from vine grown in the wild to planned viticulture around 800 BC the Romans dramatically expanded production around 200 BC. The Italians never looked back!

Area Planted – Around 700,000 hectares making around 19% of the world’s wine!

Number of Wineries – Soave alone is made by 3,500 producers. That’s around the same number of wineries as in all of Australia! From gargistes to industrial scale conglomerates every Italian has a winemaker in the family.

Established Regions – Every region in Italy produces wine! The most prestigious region Piedmont is home to the stunning Nebbiolos of Barolo & Barbaresco. The Chianti and Brunello of Tuscany following hot on Piedmont’s heals. These are just a drop in the ocean!

In typical Italian style the classification systems of each region vary and are often skewed by influential persons with much to gain over the quality of the industry. As always we need to rely on our taste buds as the ultimate decider of quality!

Most Common VarietiesIn his book ‘Native Wine Grapes of Italy’ Ian D’Agata documents around 500 Italian grape varieties, by no means the complete set! Around 350 of these have been granted authorized status. There’s plenty to try! We’ve seen a push to save some of the notable, rare varietals like the white Nascetta and Arneis from Piedmont. 

Whilst we have seen an ingress of French Varietals, the most notable being the Cabernet Varietals + Syrah used to make the Super Tuscans, the Italians have, by and large stayed true to their roots.

White – Whites of note: Arneis (Piedmont), Cataratto (Sicily), Fiano (southwest coast), Friulano (Friuli), Gargenaga (Veneto – the Soave grape), Greco di Tufo (southwest coast), Malvasia Bianca (throughout Italy), Moscato Blanc (Piedmont), Pecorino (Abruzzo), Pinot Grigo (Why?), Ribolla Gialla (Friulli), Trebbiano (Abruzzo), Verdicchio (Marche) and Vermentino (Sardinia, Tuscany and Liguria).

Red – Aglianico (Campania), Barbera (Piedmont), Corvina blended with Rondinella to make Amarone, Dolcetto (Piedmont), Malvasia Nera (Puglia), Montepuliciano (Tuscany), Nebbiolo (Piedmont), Negaromaro (Puglia), Nero d’Avola (Sicily), Primitivo (Puglia), Sagrantino (Umbria) and Sangiovese (Tuscany).

Up and Coming Regions – Beyond Barolo and Barbaresco, around the world we have seen Amarone, Chianti, Soave, Prosecco, Verdicchio and the wines of Puglia gain strong recognition. In recent times the increasing cost of Barolo in particular has seen exploration of Nebbiolo from Alto Piedmonte and Valtellina. At the opposite end of the country, in part due to the investment of heavy hitters like ‘Barolo Boy’ Marco di Grazie (Terre Nere) and Andrea Franchetti (Passopisciaro) the Nerello Mascelese (red) and Carricante (white) wines of Etna, Sicily have become world recognised. Nerello Mascelese being described as some as the Barolo of the South or a cross between Nebbiolo and Pinot. I prefer to call it delicious!


A Treasure Hunt for the Lost Whites of Italy!


Timorasso ~ Nascetta ~ Erbaluce

3 Italian Whites Saved from Extinction!

Of the thousands of grape varieties that exist, and even more clones of each variety, few make it into our glass.

Many have been lost. Economic reality making them not viable.

Advances in viticulture, changes in climate and the passion of a few individuals have saved a few!

For that we are thankful!


Timorasso


The Saviours

Walter & Claudio along with their shared cellarmaster ‘Pigi’ are both the saviours & masters of Timorasso! The hold some of the oldest plantings making wine of great complexity, texture. Composed & full of personality.

Walter describes his Derthona as a “Modern Antique”.

Monlia Colli Tortonesi Timorasso 2021

Timorasso | Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi

Released 6 months later than the 2020 and it shows immediately. The extra time offers up a beautifully resolved wine. There’s something about the texture, aroma and flavour profile of good Italian white. That silvery line of bitterness that graces the finish. Out to play, seamless, the texture is refined with an excellent phenolic play married to fine acid. When Pietro visited Wine Deoced HQ we talked of the gentle development large oak casks offer whilst retaining freshness in a wine. This is
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NOTE on the 2022: An excellent follow up to the 2021. A slightly more generous iteration. All of the elements once again at play. Texture, clever use of oxidative handling to build intrigue whilst maintaining a core of vibrant fruit and mineral acidity. Citrus zest and oils with pears and a little candied ginger. White flowers dance over the top with a little savoury hit. Flowing and luscious, chalky, savoury, spiced, sapidity in a cleansing way. Plenty of intrigue and interest here. An exceptio
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Vietti Derthona Timorasso Colli Tortonesi 2020

Timorasso | Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi

The latest addition to the Vietti portfolio sees a white from the eastern most border of the Piedmont region. A perfect fit for Vietti with regard to their history of working with varietals of merit that for one reason or another have diminished over time.Timorasso makes beautiful wine the Massa is a cracker. I can't wait to try Vietti's version. With a wonderful array of flavours, textures, and, wonderful acidity the variety is loaded with personality & intrigue.For the 2019: Th
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Vigneti Massa Timorasso 'Derthona' 2022
Delicious!

Vigneti Massa Timorasso ‘Derthona’ 2022

Timorasso | Italy, Colli Tortonesi

From near extinction the Massa family have saved Timorasso, for that I am truly thankful! Massa's Derthona is the perfect introduction to the serious end of the spectrum of Timorasso.The note is a dead ringer for the 2021 although there is perhaps an edge more energy, depth and length in the 2022.Excellent build in depth and length with excellent oxidative line that sits perfectly with fine acid and insane lemon oil and those mega lemons you could eat straight + apricot kernel.. Great de
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Explore all of our Timorasso!


Nascetta


The Saviour

Elvio Cogno with his plantings in Novello, Barolo is turning out intoxicating wines from Nascetta. As he says they need a year or 2 in bottle to reveal their full potential. Grab a 2019 to drink now and 2020 next summer!

Nascetta - Italy's answer to Gewurztraminer. Fragrant, spicy and fresh.This is a fun, youthful wine that is drinking well now but could possibly benefit from a little more time to develop, allowing the fruit and underlying structure to better harmonise. Wonderful aromas come swinging out of the glass, with pops of pity citrus, yellow stone fruits, white blossoms and a line of saline minerality. The palate marries ripe, juicy fruit with a savoury lines of lees and spicy white pepper; gentle p
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Erbaluce


The Champion

Erbaluce can make many styles of from sparkling, late harvest & passito wines.

Antoniolo’s is a wonderfully fresh and crunchy dry white style. The 2020 has settled, resolving beautifully over the last 6 months and is in a wonderful place.

Perfect summer drinking.

Antoniolo Erbaluce d’Caluso DOC 2022

Erbaluce | Italy, Alto Piemonte

If you've never tried Erbaluce before this is a bloody good place to start!Like Timorasso & Nascetta this is a varietal to watch!Tasting the 2020 it was clear that like Cogno's Nascetta, Antoniolo's Erbaluce benefits from a hear in bottle to settle.Notes on the 20202nd Taste Oct 2022 - Very Good, super racy zippy acid coming together nicely resolved filled out. Looks good fun crisp. Perfect summer drinking. Elevage is there. Spice, the overt traminer, savvy b herbaceous t
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Filters & Sorting

Massolino “Parussi” Barolo 2017

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Castiglione Falletto

Massolino’s Castiglione Falletto Parussi tannins take longer to resolve than Parafada. Bordering both core soil types. Quite dense and layered. Bright red fruit with darker macerative pops. Fresh acid long. Will resolve beautifully in time.
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Massolino “Parafada” Barolo 2017

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

Bolder darker brooding short time on skins as per Margheria. Lovely length depth even powerful long fine tannins. Very sophisticated even with it’s richness. Wonderful. Kept freshness and elegance. Excellent elegance. Definitely resolved and openned from Galloni's comments much earlier in its life.
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Massolino “Margheria” Barolo 2017

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Italy

"The 2017 Barolo Margheria is a compelling, multi-faceted Barolo loaded with personality. Sage, mint, lavender, spice, iron and red/purplish berry fruit grace this firm, classically built Barolo. This translucent, taut Barolo has so much to offer, but it also needs time to soften. Readers will find a terrific example of Margheria."Antonio Galloni
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The Produttori del Barbaresco 2017 Barbaresco Riserva Asili is distinguished by its extremely linear and direct approach with wild rose, cassis and lots of mineral or crushed stone. The wine is taut and fresh on the palate with a medium-lean texture and lots of depth and persistence. I love those bright rose petal-like nuances on the close of this wine, and the tannins are firm and silky. This bottle boasts a unique identity in this group of Riservas.Monica Larner, The Wine Advocate
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Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva ‘Pora’ 2017

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barbaresco

The 2017 Barbaresco Riserva Pora (with 13,333 bottles released) is usually the first wine I taste each year when I review this set of Riservas from Produttori del Barbaresco. That's because it usually appears as the most delicate, and the intensity of each successive bottle increases after this one. But these schematics are a bit more difficult to align in a hot and dry vintage such as this that produced richer and more succulent fruit across the board. The Pora is redolent of red and purple fru
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The 2017 Barbaresco Riserva Muncagota plays some of its best cards in terms of texture, offering silky tannins, firmness and a long-lasting veil of fruit flavors. Cassis, wild cherry, camphor ash, spice and iron ore are aromatic protagonists. This wine is lean and compact but very linear and focused. Like the other Riservas in this group of new releases, the wine is fermented in steel and aged in large oak casks for 32 months.Monica Larner, The Wine Advocate
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One of the bigger productions (with 17,744 bottles) in the Produttori del Barbaresco's portfolio is the 2017 Barbaresco Riserva Ovello. All of the Riservas in this vintage are characterized by especially exuberant and bold aromas, and this bottle is a prime example. Cassis, wild cherry, tobacco, rusty nail and licorice build intensity. The wine is tapered and silky in texture, but it also offers a good amount of power (and 15% alcohol) to carry it through the aging process.Monica Larner, The
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Ar.Pe.Pe Valtellina Superiore Sassella Stella Retica MAGNUM 2017
🇮🇹Bravo Isabella!👏🏻
As with the 2015 I found myself not really wanting to write tasting notes simply wanting to devour the glass! Although it was line ball between the 2015 Inferno and Sassella I always lent toward the Sassella as a personal preference. ArPePe have delivered a cracker. Sassella typically produces the most elegant wines of the three communes with Inferno next and Grumello the boldest.The weight of the Sassella is on par with the Inferno this year. This has excellent shape on palate. A nice step
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Roagna Timorasso Derthona Montemarzino 2019

Timorasso | Colli Tortonesi, Italy

A grape variety saved by saved by Massa & on the rise! With Vietti, Roagna and Borgogno adding their names to those making Timorasso, it's clear something special is happening in Derthona (the old name for Tortona).'The 2019 Timorasso Derthona Montemarzino is bright, transparent and super-expressive. Luca Roagna's Timorasso is one of the most refined versions. I have tasted of Timorasso, which is usually a much more rustic white wine.'Antonio Galloni, Vinous
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Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva 'Rabajà' 2020
AG 97 ML 95 KO 97
The 2020 Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà is another stellar wine in this range. Dark and explosive, the 2021 possesses notable richness to match its dark, brooding personality. Black cherry, plum, leather, cloves, menthol, licorice and gravel explode onto the palate. The 2020 will require a measure of patience, but it has a ton of potential.Antonio Galloni, Vinous 97 PointsIn this vintage, the Rabajà was served last in a series of nine Riservas; that's because it shows the most structure
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Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva 'Montefico' 2020
AG 96 ML 96+ KO 96
A complex, beautifully layered wine, the 2020 Barbaresco Riserva Montefico expresses so many of the attributes that make the wines from this vintage and site so intriguing. The bouquet alone is wonderfully complex. Dried herbs, mint, pine, tobacco and cedar open first, leading to a core of chiseled dark-toned fruit. A vertical, structured Barbaresco, the Montefico is superb.Antonio Galloni, Vinous 96 PointsTwo standouts from the 2020 vintage are Montefico and Asili. The Produttori de
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Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva 'Montestefano' 2020
AG 97 ML 93 KO 97
The 2020 Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano is one of the most elegant, polished wines in this range. Bright red-toned fruit, blood orange, spice, mint and cedar are beautifully lifted. The tannins are remarkably polished for a young, recently bottled Riserva. I admire its poise and elegance. This is an especially refined edition of the Montestefano. In 2020, the mix of vineyards is a bit younger than in the past, as one of the blocks of older vineyards was replanted and not used. If I could have o
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