Location

Italy

Ahhh … Italy! Home of renaissance literature, philosophy, science and some of the most heart warming food in the world. From North to South it would be a fair guess to say the only thing outnumbering churches and Vespa’s are the vast areas of vineyards.

One thing is certain, you’ll never run short of choice!

First Records of Wine Production – Go back millennia!

Founding Figures – The Greek colonisation marked a shift from vine grown in the wild to planned viticulture around 800 BC the Romans dramatically expanded production around 200 BC. The Italians never looked back!

Area Planted – Around 700,000 hectares making around 19% of the world’s wine!

Number of Wineries – Soave alone is made by 3,500 producers. That’s around the same number of wineries as in all of Australia! From gargistes to industrial scale conglomerates every Italian has a winemaker in the family.

Established Regions – Every region in Italy produces wine! The most prestigious region Piedmont is home to the stunning Nebbiolos of Barolo & Barbaresco. The Chianti and Brunello of Tuscany following hot on Piedmont’s heals. These are just a drop in the ocean!

In typical Italian style the classification systems of each region vary and are often skewed by influential persons with much to gain over the quality of the industry. As always we need to rely on our taste buds as the ultimate decider of quality!

Most Common VarietiesIn his book ‘Native Wine Grapes of Italy’ Ian D’Agata documents around 500 Italian grape varieties, by no means the complete set! Around 350 of these have been granted authorized status. There’s plenty to try! We’ve seen a push to save some of the notable, rare varietals like the white Nascetta and Arneis from Piedmont. 

Whilst we have seen an ingress of French Varietals, the most notable being the Cabernet Varietals + Syrah used to make the Super Tuscans, the Italians have, by and large stayed true to their roots.

White – Whites of note: Arneis (Piedmont), Cataratto (Sicily), Fiano (southwest coast), Friulano (Friuli), Gargenaga (Veneto – the Soave grape), Greco di Tufo (southwest coast), Malvasia Bianca (throughout Italy), Moscato Blanc (Piedmont), Pecorino (Abruzzo), Pinot Grigo (Why?), Ribolla Gialla (Friulli), Trebbiano (Abruzzo), Verdicchio (Marche) and Vermentino (Sardinia, Tuscany and Liguria).

Red – Aglianico (Campania), Barbera (Piedmont), Corvina blended with Rondinella to make Amarone, Dolcetto (Piedmont), Malvasia Nera (Puglia), Montepuliciano (Tuscany), Nebbiolo (Piedmont), Negaromaro (Puglia), Nero d’Avola (Sicily), Primitivo (Puglia), Sagrantino (Umbria) and Sangiovese (Tuscany).

Up and Coming Regions – Beyond Barolo and Barbaresco, around the world we have seen Amarone, Chianti, Soave, Prosecco, Verdicchio and the wines of Puglia gain strong recognition. In recent times the increasing cost of Barolo in particular has seen exploration of Nebbiolo from Alto Piedmonte and Valtellina. At the opposite end of the country, in part due to the investment of heavy hitters like ‘Barolo Boy’ Marco di Grazie (Terre Nere) and Andrea Franchetti (Passopisciaro) the Nerello Mascelese (red) and Carricante (white) wines of Etna, Sicily have become world recognised. Nerello Mascelese being described as some as the Barolo of the South or a cross between Nebbiolo and Pinot. I prefer to call it delicious!


A Treasure Hunt for the Lost Whites of Italy!


Timorasso ~ Nascetta ~ Erbaluce

3 Italian Whites Saved from Extinction!

Of the thousands of grape varieties that exist, and even more clones of each variety, few make it into our glass.

Many have been lost. Economic reality making them not viable.

Advances in viticulture, changes in climate and the passion of a few individuals have saved a few!

For that we are thankful!


Timorasso


The Saviours

Walter & Claudio along with their shared cellarmaster ‘Pigi’ are both the saviours & masters of Timorasso! The hold some of the oldest plantings making wine of great complexity, texture. Composed & full of personality.

Walter describes his Derthona as a “Modern Antique”.

Monlia Colli Tortonesi Timorasso 2021

Timorasso | Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi

Released 6 months later than the 2020 and it shows immediately. The extra time offers up a beautifully resolved wine. There’s something about the texture, aroma and flavour profile of good Italian white. That silvery line of bitterness that graces the finish. Out to play, seamless, the texture is refined with an excellent phenolic play married to fine acid. When Pietro visited Wine Deoced HQ we talked of the gentle development large oak casks offer whilst retaining freshness in a wine. This is
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NOTE on the 2022: An excellent follow up to the 2021. A slightly more generous iteration. All of the elements once again at play. Texture, clever use of oxidative handling to build intrigue whilst maintaining a core of vibrant fruit and mineral acidity. Citrus zest and oils with pears and a little candied ginger. White flowers dance over the top with a little savoury hit. Flowing and luscious, chalky, savoury, spiced, sapidity in a cleansing way. Plenty of intrigue and interest here. An exceptio
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Vietti Derthona Timorasso Colli Tortonesi 2020

Timorasso | Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi

The latest addition to the Vietti portfolio sees a white from the eastern most border of the Piedmont region. A perfect fit for Vietti with regard to their history of working with varietals of merit that for one reason or another have diminished over time.Timorasso makes beautiful wine the Massa is a cracker. I can't wait to try Vietti's version. With a wonderful array of flavours, textures, and, wonderful acidity the variety is loaded with personality & intrigue.For the 2019: Th
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Vigneti Massa Timorasso 'Derthona' 2022
Delicious!

Vigneti Massa Timorasso ‘Derthona’ 2022

Timorasso | Italy, Colli Tortonesi

From near extinction the Massa family have saved Timorasso, for that I am truly thankful! Massa's Derthona is the perfect introduction to the serious end of the spectrum of Timorasso.The note is a dead ringer for the 2021 although there is perhaps an edge more energy, depth and length in the 2022.Excellent build in depth and length with excellent oxidative line that sits perfectly with fine acid and insane lemon oil and those mega lemons you could eat straight + apricot kernel.. Great de
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Explore all of our Timorasso!


Nascetta


The Saviour

Elvio Cogno with his plantings in Novello, Barolo is turning out intoxicating wines from Nascetta. As he says they need a year or 2 in bottle to reveal their full potential. Grab a 2019 to drink now and 2020 next summer!

Nascetta - Italy's answer to Gewurztraminer. Fragrant, spicy and fresh.This is a fun, youthful wine that is drinking well now but could possibly benefit from a little more time to develop, allowing the fruit and underlying structure to better harmonise. Wonderful aromas come swinging out of the glass, with pops of pity citrus, yellow stone fruits, white blossoms and a line of saline minerality. The palate marries ripe, juicy fruit with a savoury lines of lees and spicy white pepper; gentle p
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Erbaluce


The Champion

Erbaluce can make many styles of from sparkling, late harvest & passito wines.

Antoniolo’s is a wonderfully fresh and crunchy dry white style. The 2020 has settled, resolving beautifully over the last 6 months and is in a wonderful place.

Perfect summer drinking.

Antoniolo Erbaluce d’Caluso DOC 2022

Erbaluce | Italy, Alto Piemonte

If you've never tried Erbaluce before this is a bloody good place to start!Like Timorasso & Nascetta this is a varietal to watch!Tasting the 2020 it was clear that like Cogno's Nascetta, Antoniolo's Erbaluce benefits from a hear in bottle to settle.Notes on the 20202nd Taste Oct 2022 - Very Good, super racy zippy acid coming together nicely resolved filled out. Looks good fun crisp. Perfect summer drinking. Elevage is there. Spice, the overt traminer, savvy b herbaceous t
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Filters & Sorting

Vajra Barolo ‘Ravera’ 2020

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

The G.D. Vajra 2020 Barolo Ravera reveals wild forest berry, cherry, licorice root and sweet summer fruit. The effect is focused or chiseled thanks to animating acidity and pinpoint fruit flavors. Located in the village of Novello, Ravera benefits from open panoramas and cooler temperatures from the mountains. These factors make this cru one of the most promising in this era of climate change. This is a Barolo for the purists. Monica Larner, The Wine Advocate 96 Points AG 94+
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Vajra Barolo ‘Bricco delle Viole’ 2020

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

The 2020 Barolo Bricco delle Viole, Vajra's flagship, is very fine. Dark cherry, kirsch, blood orange, spice and lavender are nicely amplified. The 2020 is gracious and elegant, but its youthful Nebbiolo tannins will require some time to soften. The 2020 is another wine that captures my keen interests with its sublime balance. I would be thrilled to own it.Antonio Galloni, Vinous 96 Points ML 95
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Poggio di Sotto Rosso di Montalcino 2018

Sangiovese | Tuscany, Italy

The 2018 Rosso di Montalcino is a perfumed and feminine effort, blossoming in the glass to show dusty roses and violets with bright cherry and strawberry fruits. Hints of cedar and flowery undergrowth come forward over time to complete the expression. It’s silky in feel and energetic with mineral-laced, ripe red berries, spice and inner florals motivated by juicy acids. Licorice and a sweet and sour twang of wild berries linger, along with a gentle coating of fine tannin that is only felt towa
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Borgogno Barolo ‘Liste’ DOCG 2016

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

Loaded with finesse, this wine has enticing aromas of rose, woodland berry, pine forest and herbs. Elegantly structured, the delicious palate delivers juicy Marasca cherry, raspberry compote, star anise and wild mint framed in tightly knit, polished tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it well-balanced. Drink 2022–2036.Kerin O'Keefe
$201
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Borgogno Barolo ‘Fossati’ DOCG 2016

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

Underbrush, wild berry, rose and camphor aromas form the enticing nose along with a whiff of forest floor. The youthfully austere, savory palate delivers ripe red cherry, raspberry compote, star anise and botanical herb framed in firm, refined tannins. Bright acidity keeps it balanced. This stunner is definitely one for the cellar. Drink 2026–2041.Kerin O’Keefe, The Wine Enthusiast
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Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo ‘Bussia’ 2021

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

Bussia is huge MGA. Giacomo Fenocchio's parcel comes from a peninsular at the top of the Commune sitting between Barolo & Castiglione Falletto. It's large enough to be split into 5-6 different fermentations. All very different from each other in personality. Fenocchio's beautiful Bussia a demonstration of the massive differences in style across Monforte. Often very structured, demanding patiences, Claudio's sites and wine making offer an elegant wine. It has some a degree of immediate genero
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Cavallotto Barolo ‘Bricco Boschis’ 2017

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

Focused, pure, without interference of oak, complex, considered élévage. Wine of great expression and vibrancy. “The 2017 Barolo Bricco Boschis is superb. A rush of crushed raspberry, rose petals, mint, sweet spice and blood orange gives the 2017 its effusive, sexy personality. Medium in body and exceptionally polished, the 2017 is an absolute jewel of a wine. Many 2017s are nervy and in need of time to soften, but not the Bricco Boschis. All the elements are so well-balanced. If I was going
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Luigi Pira Barolo ‘Marenca’ 2020

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

Classic south/south-west exposure. The only difference in the vinification process is the oak maturation. Around 50% goes into large-format aged botti and the remainder in tonneaux, partially new (1 year in tonneaux and 1 year in large botti). ‘Marenca’ is only offered as a cru Barolo by Pira – the other owner, Angelo Gaja, use theirs (along with their ‘Margheria’) in Barolo ‘Sperss’. The nose is fresh, with complex aromas that range from wild berries to dark chocolate and dried he
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A component that was previously blended into the Barolo del Barolo. A beautiful perfume lifts from the glass. An extra pop of perceived acidity makes for tannins with a playful edge to the mid-palate adding pleasure. Truffles, earthiness, darkness, with energy. Of the first three Barolos this will need more time to resolve. Serious gear. Winemaker’s hat on I can see why they separated. It will clearly give so much more with a few years in bottle.A presence yet sophistication of perfume a
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Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva 'Ovello' 2019
KO 96 AG 94
The 2019 Barbaresco Riserva Ovello is powerful, savory and intensely linear, in classico Ovello style, and yet it appears to have enough fruit behind its imposing tannins to develop well over the coming years. In this tasting, the Ovello feels pretty closed post bottling, but its inherent balance and qualities are there. Clean saline notes extend the finish in promising fashion.Antonio Galloni, Vinous 94 Points KO 96*NOTE Galloni tasted in Sept 2023 noting his intent to look at the P
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Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva 'Pajé' 2019
KO 98 AG 93
The 2019 Barbaresco Riserva Pajè is full of character. Strong mineral, savory and floral notes jump out of the glass, before veins of tannin make themselves felt on the palate. A powerful, young Barbaresco, the Pajè is going to need a number of years to come into its own. That said, all of its signatures are very much present.Antonio Galloni, Vinous 93 Points KO 98*NOTE Galloni tasted in Sept 2023 noting his intent to look at the PdB Riservas in 12 months expecting they will resolv
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Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva 'Rio Sordo' 2019
KO 98 AG 93
The 2019 Barbaresco Riserva Rio Sordo is quite deep in this vintage, with notable depth in its dark-toned fruit. This is an especially powerful Rio Sordo that is still coming together. Its intensity is palpable, even if I see less of the finesse that I associate with wines from this site. Today, all of the wine's energy is directed inwards.Antonio Galloni, Vinous 93 Points KO 98*NOTE Galloni tasted in Sept 2023 noting his intent to look at the PdB Riservas in 12 months expecting they
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