Location

Italy

Ahhh … Italy! Home of renaissance literature, philosophy, science and some of the most heart warming food in the world. From North to South it would be a fair guess to say the only thing outnumbering churches and Vespa’s are the vast areas of vineyards.

One thing is certain, you’ll never run short of choice!

First Records of Wine Production – Go back millennia!

Founding Figures – The Greek colonisation marked a shift from vine grown in the wild to planned viticulture around 800 BC the Romans dramatically expanded production around 200 BC. The Italians never looked back!

Area Planted – Around 700,000 hectares making around 19% of the world’s wine!

Number of Wineries – Soave alone is made by 3,500 producers. That’s around the same number of wineries as in all of Australia! From gargistes to industrial scale conglomerates every Italian has a winemaker in the family.

Established Regions – Every region in Italy produces wine! The most prestigious region Piedmont is home to the stunning Nebbiolos of Barolo & Barbaresco. The Chianti and Brunello of Tuscany following hot on Piedmont’s heals. These are just a drop in the ocean!

In typical Italian style the classification systems of each region vary and are often skewed by influential persons with much to gain over the quality of the industry. As always we need to rely on our taste buds as the ultimate decider of quality!

Most Common VarietiesIn his book ‘Native Wine Grapes of Italy’ Ian D’Agata documents around 500 Italian grape varieties, by no means the complete set! Around 350 of these have been granted authorized status. There’s plenty to try! We’ve seen a push to save some of the notable, rare varietals like the white Nascetta and Arneis from Piedmont. 

Whilst we have seen an ingress of French Varietals, the most notable being the Cabernet Varietals + Syrah used to make the Super Tuscans, the Italians have, by and large stayed true to their roots.

White – Whites of note: Arneis (Piedmont), Cataratto (Sicily), Fiano (southwest coast), Friulano (Friuli), Gargenaga (Veneto – the Soave grape), Greco di Tufo (southwest coast), Malvasia Bianca (throughout Italy), Moscato Blanc (Piedmont), Pecorino (Abruzzo), Pinot Grigo (Why?), Ribolla Gialla (Friulli), Trebbiano (Abruzzo), Verdicchio (Marche) and Vermentino (Sardinia, Tuscany and Liguria).

Red – Aglianico (Campania), Barbera (Piedmont), Corvina blended with Rondinella to make Amarone, Dolcetto (Piedmont), Malvasia Nera (Puglia), Montepuliciano (Tuscany), Nebbiolo (Piedmont), Negaromaro (Puglia), Nero d’Avola (Sicily), Primitivo (Puglia), Sagrantino (Umbria) and Sangiovese (Tuscany).

Up and Coming Regions – Beyond Barolo and Barbaresco, around the world we have seen Amarone, Chianti, Soave, Prosecco, Verdicchio and the wines of Puglia gain strong recognition. In recent times the increasing cost of Barolo in particular has seen exploration of Nebbiolo from Alto Piedmonte and Valtellina. At the opposite end of the country, in part due to the investment of heavy hitters like ‘Barolo Boy’ Marco di Grazie (Terre Nere) and Andrea Franchetti (Passopisciaro) the Nerello Mascelese (red) and Carricante (white) wines of Etna, Sicily have become world recognised. Nerello Mascelese being described as some as the Barolo of the South or a cross between Nebbiolo and Pinot. I prefer to call it delicious!


A Treasure Hunt for the Lost Whites of Italy!


Timorasso ~ Nascetta ~ Erbaluce

3 Italian Whites Saved from Extinction!

Of the thousands of grape varieties that exist, and even more clones of each variety, few make it into our glass.

Many have been lost. Economic reality making them not viable.

Advances in viticulture, changes in climate and the passion of a few individuals have saved a few!

For that we are thankful!


Timorasso


The Saviours

Walter & Claudio along with their shared cellarmaster ‘Pigi’ are both the saviours & masters of Timorasso! The hold some of the oldest plantings making wine of great complexity, texture. Composed & full of personality.

Walter describes his Derthona as a “Modern Antique”.

Monlia Colli Tortonesi Timorasso 2021

Timorasso | Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi

Released 6 months later than the 2020 and it shows immediately. The extra time offers up a beautifully resolved wine. There’s something about the texture, aroma and flavour profile of good Italian white. That silvery line of bitterness that graces the finish. Out to play, seamless, the texture is refined with an excellent phenolic play married to fine acid. When Pietro visited Wine Deoced HQ we talked of the gentle development large oak casks offer whilst retaining freshness in a wine. This is
$60
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NOTE on the 2022: An excellent follow up to the 2021. A slightly more generous iteration. All of the elements once again at play. Texture, clever use of oxidative handling to build intrigue whilst maintaining a core of vibrant fruit and mineral acidity. Citrus zest and oils with pears and a little candied ginger. White flowers dance over the top with a little savoury hit. Flowing and luscious, chalky, savoury, spiced, sapidity in a cleansing way. Plenty of intrigue and interest here. An exceptio
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Vietti Derthona Timorasso Colli Tortonesi 2020

Timorasso | Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi

The latest addition to the Vietti portfolio sees a white from the eastern most border of the Piedmont region. A perfect fit for Vietti with regard to their history of working with varietals of merit that for one reason or another have diminished over time.Timorasso makes beautiful wine the Massa is a cracker. I can't wait to try Vietti's version. With a wonderful array of flavours, textures, and, wonderful acidity the variety is loaded with personality & intrigue.For the 2019: Th
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Vigneti Massa Timorasso 'Derthona' 2022
Delicious!

Vigneti Massa Timorasso ‘Derthona’ 2022

Timorasso | Italy, Colli Tortonesi

From near extinction the Massa family have saved Timorasso, for that I am truly thankful! Massa's Derthona is the perfect introduction to the serious end of the spectrum of Timorasso.The note is a dead ringer for the 2021 although there is perhaps an edge more energy, depth and length in the 2022.Excellent build in depth and length with excellent oxidative line that sits perfectly with fine acid and insane lemon oil and those mega lemons you could eat straight + apricot kernel.. Great de
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Explore all of our Timorasso!


Nascetta


The Saviour

Elvio Cogno with his plantings in Novello, Barolo is turning out intoxicating wines from Nascetta. As he says they need a year or 2 in bottle to reveal their full potential. Grab a 2019 to drink now and 2020 next summer!

Nascetta - Italy's answer to Gewurztraminer. Fragrant, spicy and fresh.This is a fun, youthful wine that is drinking well now but could possibly benefit from a little more time to develop, allowing the fruit and underlying structure to better harmonise. Wonderful aromas come swinging out of the glass, with pops of pity citrus, yellow stone fruits, white blossoms and a line of saline minerality. The palate marries ripe, juicy fruit with a savoury lines of lees and spicy white pepper; gentle p
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Erbaluce


The Champion

Erbaluce can make many styles of from sparkling, late harvest & passito wines.

Antoniolo’s is a wonderfully fresh and crunchy dry white style. The 2020 has settled, resolving beautifully over the last 6 months and is in a wonderful place.

Perfect summer drinking.

Antoniolo Erbaluce d’Caluso DOC 2022

Erbaluce | Italy, Alto Piemonte

If you've never tried Erbaluce before this is a bloody good place to start!Like Timorasso & Nascetta this is a varietal to watch!Tasting the 2020 it was clear that like Cogno's Nascetta, Antoniolo's Erbaluce benefits from a hear in bottle to settle.Notes on the 20202nd Taste Oct 2022 - Very Good, super racy zippy acid coming together nicely resolved filled out. Looks good fun crisp. Perfect summer drinking. Elevage is there. Spice, the overt traminer, savvy b herbaceous t
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Filters & Sorting

Giovanni Sordo Barolo 'Gabutti' 2021
Gardini 96 ID 94 GW 94

Giovanni Sordo Barolo ‘Gabutti’ 2021

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

Fascinating Gabutti. Black tea with sappy spice. Savoury. Excellent layered tannins of grip. Tightly wound Gabutti patience required. That tar / licorice /slate thing in spades.Gardini 96 Points ID 94 Points GW 94 Points**Arriving in multiple tranches beginning September + beginning of October 2025**
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Giovanni Sordo Barolo 'La Serra' 2021
ID 94 GW 96

Giovanni Sordo Barolo ‘La Serra’ 2021

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

Fascinating to see this wine for the first time. Plush chocolatey and full rich round fruit palate. Earth nutty ripe serious tannin playing in the mid-palate firm yet of serious quality the acid tannin complex is excellent a little baking spice. Perfumed nuttiness, a lick of the macerative character violets, grape skins note.ID 94 Points GW 96 Points**Arriving in multiple tranches beginning September + beginning of October 2025**
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Giovanni Sordo Barolo 'Parussi' 2021
ID 92+

Giovanni Sordo Barolo ‘Parussi’ 2021

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

Dark horse. Brooding, it looks a little mean at the moment. It will definitely fall into line and become a generous and juicy wine. A gravity and immediate presence to it. A load of complexity here a little coffee and tea and bit more Serralunga. Long firm tannins. ID 92+ Points**Arriving in multiple tranches beginning September + beginning of October 2025**
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Giovanni Sordo Barolo 'Ravera' 2015
The Playful!

Giovanni Sordo Barolo ‘Ravera’ 2015

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

Ravera = generosity with crunchy fruit and playful front mid-palate tannin, that Sordo élévage, so much fun! ‘Ravishing red’ as usual, a wave of roses and red cherry. Quite lush, but holds its shape as all that red rolls to the pinpoint, tingling finish. It’s no wonder Ravera has risen so much in people’s estimation over recent years. Serious Barolo of a distinct style.
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Giovanni Sordo Barolo 'Monvigliero' 2015
The Playful!
Opening with juby cherry fruit that resolved beautifully in the glass, a slight lift in the structural tannins compared with the Ravera, remaining plush & playful! The star cru of an otherwise workmanlike comune, this is exactly why Monvigliero is so widely appreciated. It has the range of generous Barolo things; cherry and strawberry notes now, probably in youthful mode, but with the usual cherry-skin, raisin and smoky elements just apparent. Overall such an ambassador for Barolo, just this sid
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Giovanni Sordo Barolo 'Parussi' 2015
The Bold!

Giovanni Sordo Barolo ‘Parussi’ 2015

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

Showing tannins of Castiglione Falletto, even and long. Darker and brooding. This is going to a cracker in time. Was immense after a day in the glass! This is the darkest of the 4 Castiglione cru, with its dark red fruits of cherry and cranberry. It usually shows more immediate plummy ripeness and overt generosity, but this time it’s more tightly wound. Plenty of texture and flavour, but needs time. A beauty.
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Giovanni Sordo Barolo 'Perno' 2015
The Bold!

Giovanni Sordo Barolo ‘Perno’ 2015

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

Took the second longest to reveal more of itself. Like the other wines in the bracket it demands time in the bottle. Perfume combined with secondary complexity the name of the game here! This is all Monforte, with giveaway blue fruits, violet, cherry liqueur and some mint. Firm, taut and fleshy, this is typical of this part of Perno, the Cerretta parcel, immediately adjoining Conterno-Fantino’s, with which it shares a similar darker ‘blue’ style. Tannins seem very ripe this year…but they
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Cascina Fontana Barolo 2016

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

Undoubtedly the best Fontana Barolo Classico I’ve had! Brooding yet open - perhaps explained by the mix of Castiglione Falletto (brooding) and La Morra (open) fruit.Undoubtedly the best Fontana Barolo Classico I’ve had. A little sappy, resinous (in a nice way)  layer of tannin combines with ripe even line of nutty tannin, fruit comes, building through the mid palate and lingers. This just needs time. It has that Castiglione Falleto youthful brooding nature to it. Give it a couple of yea
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Marcarini Barolo ‘La Serra’ 2016

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

'La Morra is most often a horror zone for me when it comes to Barolo, fine light wines, beefed up with way too much oak. Marcarini is one of the beautiful exceptions to that. So fine, and finely etched. Red fruits, roses, mint, almond, subtle five spice perfume. It’s medium-bodied, fresh and precise, fine brick dust and peppery tannin, quiet succulence of strawberry and other red fruits, spice and liquorice root, long cool finish. So lovely. Energy and charm. Love this wine. And there’s more
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Barale Barolo ‘Castellero’ 2018

Nebbiolo | Italy, Barolo

A Divine Expression! This builds nicely in the glass, as a young wine, and has a presence and length about it. A full mid-palate carries through with excellent persistence. The energy of 2018 is present with fine acid and a complex set of intriguing flavours, a background resinous note over savoury, truffled fruit that has been beautifully developed draws you in. There’s some clever thinking in the making here. 
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Barale Barolo ‘Castellero’ 2019

Nebbiolo | Italy, Barolo

An excellent stepwise jump in quality commensurate with the price. Building in depth and length with a matched build in seriously good grape tannins. Again the flow and shape. Long, even, divine. Such a beautiful wine. Incredible complexity and harmony make for a seamless wine that you can’t separate the individual aromas and flavours.Wonderful fruit, savoury notes, baking spice, woody herbs tea. Every sniff reveals another perfume. This is very very good enveloping you in pleasure even at
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Barale Barolo ‘Bussia’ 2019

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

Moving to Monforte at the top of Bussia we see the hallmarks of the top Bussia. The acid tannin complex is true to the form for the commune showing a playful grip. Bright red fruit with a certain delicacy combine with energetic acid.Again a beautiful perfume with a dark mineral slatey edge. Blood orange and a little phenol. Another great example of grape first Barolo showing its part of the commune of Monforte. Like the Monrobiolo a few more years in bottle will see this resolve, build and
$175
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