Location

Italy

Ahhh … Italy! Home of renaissance literature, philosophy, science and some of the most heart warming food in the world. From North to South it would be a fair guess to say the only thing outnumbering churches and Vespa’s are the vast areas of vineyards.

One thing is certain, you’ll never run short of choice!

First Records of Wine Production – Go back millennia!

Founding Figures – The Greek colonisation marked a shift from vine grown in the wild to planned viticulture around 800 BC the Romans dramatically expanded production around 200 BC. The Italians never looked back!

Area Planted – Around 700,000 hectares making around 19% of the world’s wine!

Number of Wineries – Soave alone is made by 3,500 producers. That’s around the same number of wineries as in all of Australia! From gargistes to industrial scale conglomerates every Italian has a winemaker in the family.

Established Regions – Every region in Italy produces wine! The most prestigious region Piedmont is home to the stunning Nebbiolos of Barolo & Barbaresco. The Chianti and Brunello of Tuscany following hot on Piedmont’s heals. These are just a drop in the ocean!

In typical Italian style the classification systems of each region vary and are often skewed by influential persons with much to gain over the quality of the industry. As always we need to rely on our taste buds as the ultimate decider of quality!

Most Common VarietiesIn his book ‘Native Wine Grapes of Italy’ Ian D’Agata documents around 500 Italian grape varieties, by no means the complete set! Around 350 of these have been granted authorized status. There’s plenty to try! We’ve seen a push to save some of the notable, rare varietals like the white Nascetta and Arneis from Piedmont. 

Whilst we have seen an ingress of French Varietals, the most notable being the Cabernet Varietals + Syrah used to make the Super Tuscans, the Italians have, by and large stayed true to their roots.

White – Whites of note: Arneis (Piedmont), Cataratto (Sicily), Fiano (southwest coast), Friulano (Friuli), Gargenaga (Veneto – the Soave grape), Greco di Tufo (southwest coast), Malvasia Bianca (throughout Italy), Moscato Blanc (Piedmont), Pecorino (Abruzzo), Pinot Grigo (Why?), Ribolla Gialla (Friulli), Trebbiano (Abruzzo), Verdicchio (Marche) and Vermentino (Sardinia, Tuscany and Liguria).

Red – Aglianico (Campania), Barbera (Piedmont), Corvina blended with Rondinella to make Amarone, Dolcetto (Piedmont), Malvasia Nera (Puglia), Montepuliciano (Tuscany), Nebbiolo (Piedmont), Negaromaro (Puglia), Nero d’Avola (Sicily), Primitivo (Puglia), Sagrantino (Umbria) and Sangiovese (Tuscany).

Up and Coming Regions – Beyond Barolo and Barbaresco, around the world we have seen Amarone, Chianti, Soave, Prosecco, Verdicchio and the wines of Puglia gain strong recognition. In recent times the increasing cost of Barolo in particular has seen exploration of Nebbiolo from Alto Piedmonte and Valtellina. At the opposite end of the country, in part due to the investment of heavy hitters like ‘Barolo Boy’ Marco di Grazie (Terre Nere) and Andrea Franchetti (Passopisciaro) the Nerello Mascelese (red) and Carricante (white) wines of Etna, Sicily have become world recognised. Nerello Mascelese being described as some as the Barolo of the South or a cross between Nebbiolo and Pinot. I prefer to call it delicious!


A Treasure Hunt for the Lost Whites of Italy!


Timorasso ~ Nascetta ~ Erbaluce

3 Italian Whites Saved from Extinction!

Of the thousands of grape varieties that exist, and even more clones of each variety, few make it into our glass.

Many have been lost. Economic reality making them not viable.

Advances in viticulture, changes in climate and the passion of a few individuals have saved a few!

For that we are thankful!


Timorasso


The Saviours

Walter & Claudio along with their shared cellarmaster ‘Pigi’ are both the saviours & masters of Timorasso! The hold some of the oldest plantings making wine of great complexity, texture. Composed & full of personality.

Walter describes his Derthona as a “Modern Antique”.

Monlia Colli Tortonesi Timorasso 2021

Timorasso | Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi

Released 6 months later than the 2020 and it shows immediately. The extra time offers up a beautifully resolved wine. There’s something about the texture, aroma and flavour profile of good Italian white. That silvery line of bitterness that graces the finish. Out to play, seamless, the texture is refined with an excellent phenolic play married to fine acid. When Pietro visited Wine Deoced HQ we talked of the gentle development large oak casks offer whilst retaining freshness in a wine. This is
$60
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NOTE on the 2022: An excellent follow up to the 2021. A slightly more generous iteration. All of the elements once again at play. Texture, clever use of oxidative handling to build intrigue whilst maintaining a core of vibrant fruit and mineral acidity. Citrus zest and oils with pears and a little candied ginger. White flowers dance over the top with a little savoury hit. Flowing and luscious, chalky, savoury, spiced, sapidity in a cleansing way. Plenty of intrigue and interest here. An exceptio
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Vietti Derthona Timorasso Colli Tortonesi 2020

Timorasso | Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi

The latest addition to the Vietti portfolio sees a white from the eastern most border of the Piedmont region. A perfect fit for Vietti with regard to their history of working with varietals of merit that for one reason or another have diminished over time.Timorasso makes beautiful wine the Massa is a cracker. I can't wait to try Vietti's version. With a wonderful array of flavours, textures, and, wonderful acidity the variety is loaded with personality & intrigue.For the 2019: Th
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Vigneti Massa Timorasso 'Derthona' 2022
Delicious!

Vigneti Massa Timorasso ‘Derthona’ 2022

Timorasso | Italy, Colli Tortonesi

From near extinction the Massa family have saved Timorasso, for that I am truly thankful! Massa's Derthona is the perfect introduction to the serious end of the spectrum of Timorasso.The note is a dead ringer for the 2021 although there is perhaps an edge more energy, depth and length in the 2022.Excellent build in depth and length with excellent oxidative line that sits perfectly with fine acid and insane lemon oil and those mega lemons you could eat straight + apricot kernel.. Great de
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Explore all of our Timorasso!


Nascetta


The Saviour

Elvio Cogno with his plantings in Novello, Barolo is turning out intoxicating wines from Nascetta. As he says they need a year or 2 in bottle to reveal their full potential. Grab a 2019 to drink now and 2020 next summer!

Nascetta - Italy's answer to Gewurztraminer. Fragrant, spicy and fresh.This is a fun, youthful wine that is drinking well now but could possibly benefit from a little more time to develop, allowing the fruit and underlying structure to better harmonise. Wonderful aromas come swinging out of the glass, with pops of pity citrus, yellow stone fruits, white blossoms and a line of saline minerality. The palate marries ripe, juicy fruit with a savoury lines of lees and spicy white pepper; gentle p
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Erbaluce


The Champion

Erbaluce can make many styles of from sparkling, late harvest & passito wines.

Antoniolo’s is a wonderfully fresh and crunchy dry white style. The 2020 has settled, resolving beautifully over the last 6 months and is in a wonderful place.

Perfect summer drinking.

Antoniolo Erbaluce d’Caluso DOC 2022

Erbaluce | Italy, Alto Piemonte

If you've never tried Erbaluce before this is a bloody good place to start!Like Timorasso & Nascetta this is a varietal to watch!Tasting the 2020 it was clear that like Cogno's Nascetta, Antoniolo's Erbaluce benefits from a hear in bottle to settle.Notes on the 20202nd Taste Oct 2022 - Very Good, super racy zippy acid coming together nicely resolved filled out. Looks good fun crisp. Perfect summer drinking. Elevage is there. Spice, the overt traminer, savvy b herbaceous t
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Filters & Sorting

Luigi Pira Barolo ‘Margheria’ 2020

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

All south-facing and sitting at 340 metres, vinification is the same as the Barolo ‘Serralunga’. Intense and complex nose with notes of fruit and flowers and hints of leather and fresh hay, while on the palate it’s perfectly knit and very distinctive, red fruited in style with ironstone, choc-cherry, roses and some of the darker notes of cola and porcini, along with textural red plum-skin, grippy, black-tea tannins that underpin, but it’s still generous and very approachable now.
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Fèlsina Chianti Classio Riserva DOCG ‘Rancia’ 2016

Sangiovese | Tuscany, Castelnuovo Berardenga UGA

The layering of flavour, tannin in this is excellent! Everyone went nuts on the Fontalloro because of a couple of extra points, wow, this is stunning! Fèlsina have tamed the beast! While this is a powerful wine with incredible depth and length, it is beautifully balanced with excellent grape tannins. It will resolve and build sensuality over the coming years. Dark and incredibly complex there's a vitality to the mouthfeel. If you're going to crack one young give it loads of air in the morning a
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Giovanni Sordo Barolo 'Gabutti' 2016
The Bold!

Giovanni Sordo Barolo ‘Gabutti’ 2016

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

Ooh. Wow. So dense in aromatics that it’s hard to label them! Wait. Simply fabulous and the star of this first tasting. Insanely good, incredibly complete. Benchmark stuff.  Such a fragrance! This is mind boggling. Wonderful flow length+++. The sophistication of tannins here is insane. Here we see an incredibly complete wine. Such sophistication and power. There’s an elegance and lithe nature to this incredibly powerful beauty. The flowers are intoxicating. Again length +++. The sophisticat
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Giovanni Sordo Barolo 'Perno' 2016
The Bold!

Giovanni Sordo Barolo ‘Perno’ 2016

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

Excellent, immediately took me to the 2010 Riserva. Wonderful density. Every sniff sees another scent wafting out of the glass. Excellent, immediately took me to the 2010 Riserva. Wonderful density. Every sniff sees another scent wafting out of the glass. The tannins show the benefit of a long ripening season. Yes, they have structure, they are damn fine tannins of exceptional depth and length. Hints of tobacco, earth, savoury bits and such a long deep core of fruit. This will develop beautifull
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Giovanni Sordo Barolo 'Parussi' 2016
The Bold!

Giovanni Sordo Barolo ‘Parussi’ 2016

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

Opulent with again a step up in structure. Broody on the palate, should develop beautifully. Earthy delicious and just so much pleasure to be had. Opulent with again a step up in structure. Broody on the palate, should develop beautifully. As David puts it, it’s chubby. Immediate generosity on the nose. So much aroma and flavour. Mid-palate fruit weight here is insane. Rich and chocolatey with savoury dark fruit, hints of that faded flowers and tobacco. Earthy delicious and just so much pleasu
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Giovanni Sordo Barolo 'Rocche di Castiglione' 2016
The Super Stars!
Again a controlled, blockbuster, with layers of dried and fading flowers, tobacco, cranberry and cherry liqueur. Huge, almost sweet palate. Long, but tight and relatively unevolved still, of course. Will be superb again. Such a complete wine yet tightly coiled and the moment, everything in it’s place and place for everything. Incredible tannin profile this year. Such lovely ripe nutty tannins of serious depth. The core of fruit is exceptional and long. Mouth filling, I so want to see a bottle
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Giovanni Sordo Barolo 'Monvigliero' 2016
The Playful!
Very recognisable again; the graphite and generous almost smoky black cherry/prune announces a Monvigliero. This is both expressive now, yet clearly very classy. Superb, the flint, the slate, the dark sour cherries, such length. Incredible wine. A hint of macerative, grape marc character, again energy, vibrancy. Nice florals. Tannins that almost remind me of a little whole bunch will resolve. Should be a fun evolution for this one. This has a wonderful personality.Very recognisable again; th
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Giovanni Sordo Barolo 'Ravera' 2016
The Playful!

Giovanni Sordo Barolo ‘Ravera’ 2016

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

A wonderful example. Crunchy red fruits with the energy of 2016, there’s the overlying perfume and incredible length just goes for every. A wonderful example. Crunchy red fruits with the energy of 2016, there’s the overlying perfume and incredible length just goes for every. The sophistication of the front mid-palate tannin is there. The refreshing balanced acidity. Playful yet leveling up to serious. A lythe yet present flavour profile.Aha - this red cherry and brick-dust opening is be
$180
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Figli Luigi Oddero Barolo 2016
A Masterpiece!

Figli Luigi Oddero Barolo 2016

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

On most recent devouring, Oct 2022, the 2016 Barolo is starting to reveal itself.  On release it was clearly something special, now a couple of years on it is a seamless wonder, flow and harmony. A vote for blending across communes, the oppulence of La Morra, the layers, line and length of Castiglione Falletto and the dark structure of Serralunga all making for a complete wine. Plenty more to come!A blend of fruit from 30% La Morra’s Rive, 30% Castiglione Falletto’s Scarrone, &
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Sottimano Barbaresco ‘Basarin’ 2019

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barbaresco

As with the 2016, Sottimano's 2019 Basarin is a cracker. Finely balanced with the juicy acid that sits across Sottimano's 2019's. There's more immediate generosity compared with the Fausoni at this early stage. Excellent depth and length with fine long tannins. As with the 2016 this has to be one of the best handling of a tiny proportion of new oak in Barbaresco that you'll find. The is great drinking with beautiful shape. The fruit again shining through with an intoxicating set of aromas and f
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Sottimano Barbaresco ‘Fausoni’ 2019

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barbaresco

The Cru's of the Commune of Nieve in Barbaresco in general have an elegance, a fine feel to them. Fausoni fits that bill. The 2019 is defined with an excellent acid tannin complex at 14% Alcohol. With a little air time and coaxing the perfume comes, the fruit builds and the balance refines. Full of energy and life, red fruits, slate, earthiness, a little tar, leather, orange citrus and beyond are at play. Fine, dusty tannins add a nice level of grip to match the depth and length of fruit. This w
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Sottimano Barbaresco ‘Pajorè’ 2019

Nebbiolo | Treiso, Barbaresco

From one of the famed Cru's of the Commune of Treiso, Barbaresco. A classic, superb fruit of depth and considerable length here, backed by long tannins of excellent mouthfeel. Loads going on with darker fruits and an array of complexing earthy, savoury notes, spices and blood orange adding layer after layers of subtle complexity. Plenty in the tank here too. Classic Barbaresco. Wait 5 years before trying.
$180
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