Location

Italy

Ahhh … Italy! Home of renaissance literature, philosophy, science and some of the most heart warming food in the world. From North to South it would be a fair guess to say the only thing outnumbering churches and Vespa’s are the vast areas of vineyards.

One thing is certain, you’ll never run short of choice!

First Records of Wine Production – Go back millennia!

Founding Figures – The Greek colonisation marked a shift from vine grown in the wild to planned viticulture around 800 BC the Romans dramatically expanded production around 200 BC. The Italians never looked back!

Area Planted – Around 700,000 hectares making around 19% of the world’s wine!

Number of Wineries – Soave alone is made by 3,500 producers. That’s around the same number of wineries as in all of Australia! From gargistes to industrial scale conglomerates every Italian has a winemaker in the family.

Established Regions – Every region in Italy produces wine! The most prestigious region Piedmont is home to the stunning Nebbiolos of Barolo & Barbaresco. The Chianti and Brunello of Tuscany following hot on Piedmont’s heals. These are just a drop in the ocean!

In typical Italian style the classification systems of each region vary and are often skewed by influential persons with much to gain over the quality of the industry. As always we need to rely on our taste buds as the ultimate decider of quality!

Most Common VarietiesIn his book ‘Native Wine Grapes of Italy’ Ian D’Agata documents around 500 Italian grape varieties, by no means the complete set! Around 350 of these have been granted authorized status. There’s plenty to try! We’ve seen a push to save some of the notable, rare varietals like the white Nascetta and Arneis from Piedmont. 

Whilst we have seen an ingress of French Varietals, the most notable being the Cabernet Varietals + Syrah used to make the Super Tuscans, the Italians have, by and large stayed true to their roots.

White – Whites of note: Arneis (Piedmont), Cataratto (Sicily), Fiano (southwest coast), Friulano (Friuli), Gargenaga (Veneto – the Soave grape), Greco di Tufo (southwest coast), Malvasia Bianca (throughout Italy), Moscato Blanc (Piedmont), Pecorino (Abruzzo), Pinot Grigo (Why?), Ribolla Gialla (Friulli), Trebbiano (Abruzzo), Verdicchio (Marche) and Vermentino (Sardinia, Tuscany and Liguria).

Red – Aglianico (Campania), Barbera (Piedmont), Corvina blended with Rondinella to make Amarone, Dolcetto (Piedmont), Malvasia Nera (Puglia), Montepuliciano (Tuscany), Nebbiolo (Piedmont), Negaromaro (Puglia), Nero d’Avola (Sicily), Primitivo (Puglia), Sagrantino (Umbria) and Sangiovese (Tuscany).

Up and Coming Regions – Beyond Barolo and Barbaresco, around the world we have seen Amarone, Chianti, Soave, Prosecco, Verdicchio and the wines of Puglia gain strong recognition. In recent times the increasing cost of Barolo in particular has seen exploration of Nebbiolo from Alto Piedmonte and Valtellina. At the opposite end of the country, in part due to the investment of heavy hitters like ‘Barolo Boy’ Marco di Grazie (Terre Nere) and Andrea Franchetti (Passopisciaro) the Nerello Mascelese (red) and Carricante (white) wines of Etna, Sicily have become world recognised. Nerello Mascelese being described as some as the Barolo of the South or a cross between Nebbiolo and Pinot. I prefer to call it delicious!


A Treasure Hunt for the Lost Whites of Italy!


Timorasso ~ Nascetta ~ Erbaluce

3 Italian Whites Saved from Extinction!

Of the thousands of grape varieties that exist, and even more clones of each variety, few make it into our glass.

Many have been lost. Economic reality making them not viable.

Advances in viticulture, changes in climate and the passion of a few individuals have saved a few!

For that we are thankful!


Timorasso


The Saviours

Walter & Claudio along with their shared cellarmaster ‘Pigi’ are both the saviours & masters of Timorasso! The hold some of the oldest plantings making wine of great complexity, texture. Composed & full of personality.

Walter describes his Derthona as a “Modern Antique”.

Monlia Colli Tortonesi Timorasso 2021

Timorasso | Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi

Released 6 months later than the 2020 and it shows immediately. The extra time offers up a beautifully resolved wine. There’s something about the texture, aroma and flavour profile of good Italian white. That silvery line of bitterness that graces the finish. Out to play, seamless, the texture is refined with an excellent phenolic play married to fine acid. When Pietro visited Wine Deoced HQ we talked of the gentle development large oak casks offer whilst retaining freshness in a wine. This is
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NOTE on the 2022: An excellent follow up to the 2021. A slightly more generous iteration. All of the elements once again at play. Texture, clever use of oxidative handling to build intrigue whilst maintaining a core of vibrant fruit and mineral acidity. Citrus zest and oils with pears and a little candied ginger. White flowers dance over the top with a little savoury hit. Flowing and luscious, chalky, savoury, spiced, sapidity in a cleansing way. Plenty of intrigue and interest here. An exceptio
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Vietti Derthona Timorasso Colli Tortonesi 2020

Timorasso | Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi

The latest addition to the Vietti portfolio sees a white from the eastern most border of the Piedmont region. A perfect fit for Vietti with regard to their history of working with varietals of merit that for one reason or another have diminished over time.Timorasso makes beautiful wine the Massa is a cracker. I can't wait to try Vietti's version. With a wonderful array of flavours, textures, and, wonderful acidity the variety is loaded with personality & intrigue.For the 2019: Th
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Vigneti Massa Timorasso 'Derthona' 2022
Delicious!

Vigneti Massa Timorasso ‘Derthona’ 2022

Timorasso | Italy, Colli Tortonesi

From near extinction the Massa family have saved Timorasso, for that I am truly thankful! Massa's Derthona is the perfect introduction to the serious end of the spectrum of Timorasso.The note is a dead ringer for the 2021 although there is perhaps an edge more energy, depth and length in the 2022.Excellent build in depth and length with excellent oxidative line that sits perfectly with fine acid and insane lemon oil and those mega lemons you could eat straight + apricot kernel.. Great de
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Explore all of our Timorasso!


Nascetta


The Saviour

Elvio Cogno with his plantings in Novello, Barolo is turning out intoxicating wines from Nascetta. As he says they need a year or 2 in bottle to reveal their full potential. Grab a 2019 to drink now and 2020 next summer!

Nascetta - Italy's answer to Gewurztraminer. Fragrant, spicy and fresh.This is a fun, youthful wine that is drinking well now but could possibly benefit from a little more time to develop, allowing the fruit and underlying structure to better harmonise. Wonderful aromas come swinging out of the glass, with pops of pity citrus, yellow stone fruits, white blossoms and a line of saline minerality. The palate marries ripe, juicy fruit with a savoury lines of lees and spicy white pepper; gentle p
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Erbaluce


The Champion

Erbaluce can make many styles of from sparkling, late harvest & passito wines.

Antoniolo’s is a wonderfully fresh and crunchy dry white style. The 2020 has settled, resolving beautifully over the last 6 months and is in a wonderful place.

Perfect summer drinking.

Antoniolo Erbaluce d’Caluso DOC 2022

Erbaluce | Italy, Alto Piemonte

If you've never tried Erbaluce before this is a bloody good place to start!Like Timorasso & Nascetta this is a varietal to watch!Tasting the 2020 it was clear that like Cogno's Nascetta, Antoniolo's Erbaluce benefits from a hear in bottle to settle.Notes on the 20202nd Taste Oct 2022 - Very Good, super racy zippy acid coming together nicely resolved filled out. Looks good fun crisp. Perfect summer drinking. Elevage is there. Spice, the overt traminer, savvy b herbaceous t
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Filters & Sorting

Talenti Rosso di Montalcino 2022

Sangiovese | Tuscany, Italy

A staple on the Wine Decoded list! Another ripping Rosso from Talenti. Superb balance and texture. Plush with beautiful supple tannins, luscious fruit, juicy acid, and plenty of intrigue.Just like Talenti's Brunello this has to be one of the best value Rosso's year in year out. It too has great harmony and is delicious straight out of the gate.  It's like Dr Evil's Mini Me! All that red fruit, earthiness, baking spices, woody herbs, great energy and much, much more. 
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Francesco Versio Dolcetto di Dogliani 2019
Superb! Bravi Francesco!🍷
The 'Side Project' of ex-Bruno Giacosa's winemaker Francesco Versio this is a stunner! Given Francesco used to make wine at Bruno Giacosa it is hardly surprising that he knocks out a solid Dolcetto. Giacosa being known as arguably the best maker of the variety. Co-incidentally the last Dolcetto I had, a few days before this, was a Bruno Giacosa made by Francesco, and, it was one of the best Dolcetto I've had the pleasure of devouring.The Dogliani DOCG covers some broad territory. Often of mu
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Nascetta - Italy's answer to Gewurztraminer. Fragrant, spicy and fresh.This is a fun, youthful wine that is drinking well now but could possibly benefit from a little more time to develop, allowing the fruit and underlying structure to better harmonise. Wonderful aromas come swinging out of the glass, with pops of pity citrus, yellow stone fruits, white blossoms and a line of saline minerality. The palate marries ripe, juicy fruit with a savoury lines of lees and spicy white pepper; gentle p
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Cavallotto Dolcetto d'Alba Vigna Scot 2021
Bring Me the Truffles!
Dolcetto translates roughly to sweetish. Many Dolcettos are raw fruit bombs, this by contrast is some seriously well made wine! Excellent élévage wonderful freshness and development delicious, layered, & earthy. Beautifully weighted. Stunning wine. Lovely acid. Savoury with dark and red fresh fruit ~ mulberry.If you want to know how serious Cavallotto is about Dolcetto, they planted it on the hillside between Bricco Boschis and Monprivato/Codana. That, my friends, is a site with pe
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Burlotto Dolcetto d'Alba 2022
2 Bottle Limit

Burlotto Dolcetto d’Alba 2023

Dolcetto | Verduno, Italy

Everything in it's place and a place for everything, and, there is lot's of things! The 2023 Dolcetto d'Alba is a gorgeous, quirky wine. Exotic flowers, spice, leather, licorice and cool, blue-toned fruits are all laced together in the glass. The 2023 was done with 60% stems, as is the custom here. The Burlotto Dolcetto remains one of the most distinctive wines in all of Piedmont.Antonio Galloni, Vinous 91 Points
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Albino Rocca Nebbiolo d’Alba 2019

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Italy

Excellent perfume, great delicacy with deceptive weight, sophisticated, feminine, long fine texture, slatey delicious tannins. Savoury dark edge. Delicious thirst quenching excellent elevage. Fun wine. Fine excellent cherries.
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Francesco Versio Dolcetto di Dogliani 2021
Superb! Bravi Francesco!🍷
The 'Side Project' of ex-Bruno Giacosa's winemaker Francesco Versio this is a stunner! Given Francesco used to make wine at Bruno Giacosa it is hardly surprising that he knocks out a solid Dolcetto. Giacosa being known as arguably the best maker of the variety. Co-incidentally the last Dolcetto I had, a few days before this, was a Bruno Giacosa made by Francesco, and, it was one of the best Dolcetto I've had the pleasure of devouring.The Dogliani DOCG covers some broad territory. Often of mu
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Vietti Barbera d’Asti Tre Vigne 2020

Barbera | Piedmont, Asti

Vietti's Barbera d'Asti has an excellent élévage. I first had this wine back in 1994 while studying winemaking in Adelaide. Over the decades it has become more refined. A great expression of Barbera. Those in the know will tell you that good vineyards planted to Barbera in Asti will beat the bounty of average sites that have been planted to the variety in Alba.Vietti's Barbera d'Asti has an excellent élévage. The plush, generous fruit of Barbera is matched with juicy acid that sits in a
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Antoniolo Erbaluce d’Caluso DOC 2022

Erbaluce | Italy, Alto Piemonte

If you've never tried Erbaluce before this is a bloody good place to start!Like Timorasso & Nascetta this is a varietal to watch!Tasting the 2020 it was clear that like Cogno's Nascetta, Antoniolo's Erbaluce benefits from a hear in bottle to settle.Notes on the 20202nd Taste Oct 2022 - Very Good, super racy zippy acid coming together nicely resolved filled out. Looks good fun crisp. Perfect summer drinking. Elevage is there. Spice, the overt traminer, savvy b herbaceous t
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So pretty, floral and pleasantly sweet, the 2020 Vino Rosato Bricco Lorella makes itself known with a bouquet of peach skins and pear complemented by hints of wet stone and flowery undergrowth. This soothes with a display of ripe fruits offset by hints of candied citrus, all carried across a wave of juicy acidity. Nothing seems out of place as the Bricco Lorella tapers off wonderfully refreshing but also reverberating with residual acids. This is a gorgeous expression of Nebbiolo Rosato from Gat
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Vietti Arneis 2023

Arneis | Roero, Italy

Arneis makes such beautiful wine. Morish and refreshing. A beautiful wine! Arneis makes such beautiful wine. Vietti's has a sophistication that gives restraint to the core of fruit that has great depth and length. Maple and a hint of baking spice layer on top of white nectarine and friends. Supple with just an edge of chalking phenolic grip, it has that wondeful silvery line of bitterness that cleans he palate up so well. Morish and refreshing. A beautiful wine!"... In 1967 I experimented wi
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Giovanni Rosso Langhe Nebbiolo 2021

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

Near a decaded ago Giovanni Rosso's Langhe Nebbiolo was the very first wine I tried from the estate. It enchanted then just as the 2021 impresses now! It has the hallmarks of all of Rosso's Nebbiolos: energy, balance, harmony, a caressing texture, restraint & purity.The winemaking here is considered and clever. The tannins are perfectly matched to the mid-weight core of fruit. Showing a level of complexity well beyond its classification flowers, earthiness red and darker fruits with a li
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