Location

France

France has gone on a roller coaster ride. A booming industry was decimated by mildew and phylloxera in the second half of the 19th century, then two World Wars in the 20th century. Thirst won in the end, and, France is now the World’s #2 wine producer by volume.

Without doubt the two greatest drivers of the French wine industry have been the concept of Terroir and the establishment of the Appellation d’origine contrôlée.

Combined these have defined a philosophical approach to growing and making wine and enforced strict controls of grape varieties that can be planted in each region and winemaking practices that can be employed.

Frances has come through with flying colours, successive generations have been better trained, spent time in the New World exposing them to different techniques for growing vines and making wine, and, have been able to push the boundaries to achieve excellence.

First Records of Wine Production – Go back millennia to the 6th century BC. The Greeks kicked things off with the Romans ramping things up. Those Romans got around and took their vines and wines with them! Over time the wealth of the Monastries took over much of the production. Nobility took their turn until the guillotine fell!

Founding Figures – In ‘recent times’, technical advancement in the industry were driven by Minister of the Interior, Jean-Antoine Chaptal following the French revolution, work done by Louis Pasteur in the 19th century, and, the Emperor Napoleon III commissioning of the 1855 classification of Bordeaux.

Area Planted – with around 630,000 hectares of vines France produces 17% of the World’s wine

Established Regions – When we think French wine, the regions that immediately come to mind are Champagne with its fizz, Bordeaux’s Cabernet blends and Sauternes, Burgundy’s Pinot and Chardonnay, the Rhône Valley’s Shiraz, Grenache, Marsanne & Roussane, and, Alsatian Riesling.

Most Common Varieties

White – From greatest area planted down the top red varieties are Ugni Blanc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Melon de Bourgogne, Sémillon, Chennin Blanc, Colombard, Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains, Grenache Blanc, Viognier, and, Riesling.

Red – The list doesn’t surprise the order they come in does from greatest area planted down the top red varieties are Merlot, Grenache, Syrah, Carignan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Gamay, Pinot Noir, Cinsaut, Pinot Meunier and Mourvèdre.

Up and Coming Regions – In recent times we’ve seen the Rosé of Provence, the hidden gems from the Languedoc, Jura and Loire Valley increasing in popularity.

Filters & Sorting

I generally have a slight preference for Dauvissat's Les Preuses, a preference I suspect Vincent Dauvissat shares, but the 2020 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos, at least at this early stage, gets my nod as the king of the cellar—and the wine of the vintage. Wafting from the glass with aromas of citrus oil, fresh bread, oyster shell, white flowers and wet stones, it's full-bodied, layered and textural, with huge concentration, racy acids and a long, resonant finish.William Kelley, The Wine Advoc
An agreeably discreet application of wood sets off the attractively fresh and markedly floral aromas of black cherry, plum and abundant earth scents. There is a subtle minerality and vibrancy to the sleek and intense middle weight flavors that possess a caressing mouthfeel that contrasts somewhat with a mildly austere finale that exhibits fine depth and persistence. This is both stylish and pretty and like the Griotte, could be approached with pleasure on the younger side if that's your preferen
$1,260
$1240ea in any 3+
$1220ea in any 6+
There is ample earth character to the markedly floral-scented nose of various red berries, soft wood and a hint of smoked game. The beautifully textured, if not particularly concentrated middleweight flavors possess excellent vibrancy as well as focused power that seems to build on the beautifully long finish that really tightens up as it sits on the palate. This is a deceptive wine in that it seems a bit light but delivers superb flavor authority. (from a .70 ha parcel of vines near the Morey b
$1,260
$1240ea in any 3+
$1220ea in any 6+

Domaine de la Vougeraie Grand Cru ‘Bâtard-Montrachet’ 2022

Chardonnay | Puligny-Montrachet, Burgundy

Generous but not dominant wood sets off intensely floral-suffused aromas of white peach, spice, acacia and citrus confit. The palate impression of the medium-bodied flavors is not as dense, mineral-driven or powerful but they are still impressive, especially in the context of having even better depth and persistence. This is a stylish and ageworthy Bâtard. (from a .38 ha holding divided into 3 parcels, two of which are on the Chassagne side and the remainder on the Puligny side of the divide) 2
$1,260
$1240ea in any 3+
$1220ea in any 6+
This is spicier still with its broad-ranging nose of red and dark pinot fruit, violet and herbal tea, all of which is trimmed by soft wood influence. There is a bit more minerality present on the vibrant and lavishly rich medium weight flavors that possess excellent power that carries over to the firm and tautly muscular finish that is balanced and long plus it’s less austere than usual. Lovely. 2032+ ♥ OutstandingAllen Meadows, Burghound (91-94) Points JM 96It hard to talk about
$1,279
$1259ea in any 3+
$1239ea in any 6+
Domaine Ponsot Corton Bressandes Grand Cru 2014
Impressive Depth!

Domaine Ponsot Corton Bressandes Grand Cru 2014

Pinot Noir | France, Aloxe-Corton

Lush red cherries & raspberry preserve aromas, dried orange peel, menthol. Medium-bodied with ripe red berry fruit and cracked black pepper, saline with impressive depth & structure on the finish. This is our second allocation of this wine, which hails from a 0.26 hectare parcel of this powerful terroir. The vines here are on the younger side, but low yields of less than 25 hl/ha and Ponsot’s typically late picking offset the relative youth of the vines. It’s a deeper, more concentrated and
"Here too there is just enough wood present to remark upon mingling with the equally spicy nose that features notes of plum, various dark berries, exotic tea and hints of game. The sleek, cool and restrained larger-scaled flavors are finer still while flashing no lack of power and drive that really builds toward the intensely saline-suffused finish. This is very classy juice that should age effortlessly for the next two decades."Allen Meadows, Burghound
$1,290
$1270ea in any 3+
$1250ea in any 6+
Here the elegant nose is cooler and more restrained with a much more discreet application of wood framing the layered spicy aromas of honeysuckle, white peach and a variety of floral nuances. The notably more refined and beautifully textured flavors possess excellent mid-palate concentration before terminating in a persistent, balanced and markedly dry finale that is unusually powerful. This BBM is terrific and classy, indeed it’s impressively poised for such a young wine. (from a .46 ha holdi
$1,315
$1295ea in any 3+
$1275ea in any 6+
Moderately generous wood and menthol fight somewhat with the exuberantly spicy black cherry liqueur-like aromas that are cut with lovely floral wisps. There is excellent concentration to the bigger-bodied and more powerful flavors that are blessed with ample amounts of sappy dry extract that does a fine job of buffering the firm tannic spine shaping the complex, balanced and hugely long finale. Excellent. 2035+Allen Meadows, Burghound
$1,320
$1300ea in any 3+
$1280ea in any 6+
The 2022 Grands-Echézeaux Grand Cru is the maiden vintage under the Anne Gros label, the parcel having previously been vinified by Bernard Gros (Gros Frère & Soeur) under a fermage. It has a very well-defined bouquet, dark berry fruit intermixed with crushed limestone and wilted rose petals, understated at first and only gradually gaining intensity. The medium-bodied palate has filigree tannins, tensile from the start, with a keen thread of acidity. It fans out wonderfully towards the fin
$1,355
$1335ea in any 3+
$1315ea in any 6+
The barest hint of exotic fruit floats in the background of the elegant, pure and layered aromas of orange peel, passion fruit, white peach, acacia blossom and a whiff of jasmine tea. There is outstanding volume and power for such young vines to the medium weight plus flavors that deliver impressive persistence on the agreeably dry and beautifully well-balanced finale. This also needs better depth though again, that should simply be a question of allowing sufficient time. This too is excellent

Egly-Ouriet Brut Grand Cru Millesime 2015

Blend | Montagne de Reims, Ambonnay

This is 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay from 40-year-old vines in Ambonnay. The Egly family select the grapes for this wine at harvest and raise the wine completely in barrel. There was only 1 g/L dosage. It is a seductive, layered, powerful expression of Ambonnay, and, as with the Blanc de Noirs, it undoubtedly represents one of Champagne’s greatest wines.2015 was a wonderful year for Egly-Ouriet, and the result is a strikingly beautiful wine with floral notes, great energy and tremendo
$1,388
$1368ea in any 3+
$1348ea in any 6+