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Piedmont

Barolo

Home to the Wine of Kings and the King of Wine, Barolo has a history dating back to the 1400’s. Until the early 1900’s the wines of the region were largely sweet reds.

Over the last 50-70 years, their vineyards have been well defined and categorised, the push to single vineyard, single variety wines completed. Like Burgundy a new generation has tried all of the new techniques and now finds comfort with making wines of purity over such as heavy handed extraction and new oak use. Their success and the money it has brought has allowed the investment of time into vineyards and practical technologies like sorting tables and temperature controlled fermenters in the wineries.

While wine lovers from around the world focus on the great Barolos made from Nebbiolo, it is Barbera, and Dolcetto that are the Italian daily drink, the cerebral Barolo saved for special occasions.

Founding Figures

The founding figures of Barolo come in several waves. The old school the shifted us from sweet reds to the ballsy dry wines of today, the Barolo Boys and the modernists who introduced more science and technology, the next generation that are finding the balance, managing climate change, pushing wines of consistency, purity, and expression of fruit over artefact.

On balance the wines are more refined and sophisticated, careful management of tannins with fruit sorting, careful destemming, handling of skins during fermentation, and, gentle pressing building more supple texture over the block busters from previous generations.

Area Planted

Barolo is a small region roughly 10km wide by 15km long. Apart from the village centers it is almost fully planted to vines.

The Communes

It was only by around 2017 that the work to define & classify Barolo’s vineyards was completed. The detailed work is only paralleled by the definition given to the vineyards of Burgundy. Like any body of work that has a financial impact disputes of who was in and who was out have been common. Defining Cru of Cannubi almost caused a war!

Barolo is made up of 11 Communes 5 of which have been the backbone of region over the last few decades. In no particular order they are La Morra, Barolo (the sub-region of the same name as the region .. I know!), Castiglione Falletto, Serralunga, and, Monforte d’Alba.

We’ve begun to explore these with the article in the Wine Bites Mag “Getting Your Head Around Barolo “The 8 Cru’s of Giovanni Sordo””. Will be exploring the Communes in more detail over time. Check in on all our articles about Barolo for the next installment!

The other 6 Communes are Verduno, home to the Monvigliero Cru, Rodi, Grinzane Cavour, Diano D’Alba, Cherasco, and, Novello.

Most Common Varieties

Beyond the traditional varieties winemakers are playing with small amounts of Riesling, Chardonnay, Viognier, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Varieties and Syrah.

White

Nascetta, native to the Commune of Novello in Barolo is making a comeback. You won’t see Nascetta listed in too many wine resources, yet, there is a dedicated group of Piemontese looking to revive this delicious white grape, think Cogno & Rivetto. Like most regions of the world we see experimentation with non-traditional varieties too.

Red

The big 3 are Barbera (31%) the most widely planted grape in the region and for good reason, Nebbiolo (10%), Dolcetto (13%). Lesser known include Freisia and Pelaverga.


2021 Marcarini & Poderi Colla 6-Packs


Marcarini Barolo ‘La Serra’ 2021 6-Pack

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

A very strong La Serra from Marcarini. Oppulent, generous, shows off the Commune of La Morra in full flight! Savoury, with a drip of salty blood over red fruit and blood orange. Flowing, plush, round & fine. Delicious. The best La Serra in years. Beautiful development. Ripe, fine tannins. A long, long finish. Incredibly moreish even at this youthful point in its life! Will make for a lovely comparison with Sordo’s 2021 La Serra.Paul Kaan, WINE DECODED Sept 2025The 2021 Barolo
Original price was: $1,050.Current price is: $924.
3 x 2021 Poderi Colla Barolo Bussia 'Dardi Le Rose'3 x 2021 Marcarini Barolo 'La Serra'The single best Dardi Le Rose I've seen from Poderi Colla. Serious wine, yet, with a playful side. Excellent tannins, depth and length. A dark note melds into red fruits. Fresh, energetic & layered.  Structured Monforte Tannins with a beautifully weighted presence.Lovely perfume. Earthy, forest floor, with a dash of licorice/tar + so much more going on already! A few years in bottle will s
Original price was: $1,092.Current price is: $966.
The single best Dardi Le Rose I've seen from Poderi Colla. Serious wine, yet, with a playful side. Excellent tannins, depth and length. A dark note melds into red fruits. Fresh, energetic & layered.  Structured Monforte Tannins with a beautifully weighted presence.Lovely perfume. Earthy, forest floor, with a dash of licorice/tar + so much more going on already! A few years in bottle will see it through the first phase of development and into a very happy place. Plenty of legs on it and
Original price was: $1,134.Current price is: $1,008.

Marcarini Barolo ‘La Serra’ 2021

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

A very strong La Serra from Marcarini. Oppulent, generous, shows off the Commune of La Morra in full flight! Savoury, with a drip of salty blood over red fruit and blood orange. Flowing, plush, round & fine. Delicious. The best La Serra in years. Beautiful development. Ripe, fine tannins. A long, long finish. Incredibly moreish even at this youthful point in its life! Will make for a lovely comparison with Sordo’s 2021 La Serra.Paul Kaan, WINE DECODED Sept 2025The 2021 Barolo
$175
$168ea in any 3+
$161ea in any 6+
The single best Dardi Le Rose I've seen from Poderi Colla. Serious wine, yet, with a playful side. Excellent tannins, depth and length. A dark note melds into red fruits. Fresh, energetic & layered.  Structured Monforte Tannins with a beautifully weighted presence.Lovely perfume. Earthy, forest floor, with a dash of licorice/tar + so much more going on already! A few years in bottle will see it through the first phase of development and into a very happy place. Plenty of legs on it and
$189
$182ea in any 3+
$175ea in any 6+
The single best Dardi Le Rose I've seen from Poderi Colla. Serious wine, yet, with a playful side. Excellent tannins, depth and length. A dark note melds into red fruits. Fresh, energetic & layered.  Structured Monforte Tannins with a beautifully weighted presence.Lovely perfume. Earthy, forest floor, with a dash of licorice/tar + so much more going on already! A few years in bottle will see it through the first phase of development and into a very happy place. Plenty of legs on it and
$380
$365ea in any 3+
$350ea in any 6+

A Splash from the Cellars!

Marcarini Barolo ‘La Serra’ 2016

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

'La Morra is most often a horror zone for me when it comes to Barolo, fine light wines, beefed up with way too much oak. Marcarini is one of the beautiful exceptions to that. So fine, and finely etched. Red fruits, roses, mint, almond, subtle five spice perfume. It’s medium-bodied, fresh and precise, fine brick dust and peppery tannin, quiet succulence of strawberry and other red fruits, spice and liquorice root, long cool finish. So lovely. Energy and charm. Love this wine. And there’s more
$175
$168ea in any 3+
$161ea in any 6+

Poderi Colla Barbaresco ‘Roncaglie’ 2019

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barbaresco

The Hit List from 2019 Barbaresco is Insane! Now this from one of Piedmont's God Fathers! The three Crus Roncaglie, Roncagliette and Roncaglini make superb wines. Colla's 2019 Roncaglie re-enforcing the reputation! Yes, it is still tight, yet straight out of the gate it is clear something special is going on. Put it this way, I just trippled my order!Stunning perfume, layered in savoury & slate notes over a core of red fruit with darkness at the edge. Mouthfeel is incredibly important wi
$180
$173ea in any 3+
$166ea in any 6+

Marcarini Barolo ‘Brunate’ 2016

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

'Tasted alongside the La Serra, which is always interesting. If you want to experience terroir, well, I reckon traditionally made Barolo and Barbaresco provide much better examples than Burgundy does, with their Pinot Noir toolkit of winemaking techniques obfuscating vineyards so often! Anyway, air-freight sample here, so likely arriving in the not too distant future, given the travails of international shipping at present, container shortages, and the like. I’ve been dipping into my 2010s of
$199
$192ea in any 3+
$185ea in any 6+

Filters & Sorting

Vajra Barolo ‘Bricco delle Viole’ 2021

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

What a wine! So complete, incredible, layered complex, beautifully perfumed with the earth, slate and undergrowth to balance it. The very definition of a complete Barolo. The acid tannin complex is impeccable. The core and length of fruit is divine. Simply so much going on. Savoury, dark, brooding this will be a special wine with time in bottle. A lacing of the finest black tea supporting exceptional tannins. There are not enough superlatives.Paul Kaan, Wine DecodedThe organic G.D. V
$216
$206ea in any 3+
$196ea in any 6+

Vajra Barolo ‘Ravera’ 2021

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

UPDATE: Here's the double cross ... This is Ravera di Novello. I interviewed Eugene Qiao of Vajra and we laughed about the same thing. I forgot to amend the note. The triple cross is that Eugene informed me that the particular part of Ravera in Novella where their holding are has different soils that are much closer to the Ravera in Monforte than in Novello. I was making my note based on the structure looking a little more like Monforte!On the back of drinking all the 2021 Clerico's from
$216
$206ea in any 3+
$196ea in any 6+

Luigi Pira Barolo ‘Marenca’ 2021

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

Classic south/south-west exposure. The only difference in the vinification process is the oak maturation. Around 50% goes into large-format aged botti and the remainder in tonneaux, partially new (1 year in tonneaux and 1 year in large botti).‘Marenca’ is only offered as a cru Barolo by Pira – the other owner, Angelo Gaja, use theirs (along with their ‘Margheria’) in Barolo ‘Sperss’.The nose is fresh, with complex aromas that range from wild berries to dark chocolate and dr
$216
$206ea in any 3+
$196ea in any 6+

E. Pira (Chiara Boschis) Barolo ‘Via Nuova’ 2018

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Italy

This one's an argument for blending sites! The 2017 Barolo Via Nuova is a blend of seven plots from Barolo, Monforte & Serralunga! This one’s an argument for blending sites! The 2018 Barolo Via Nuova is an organic blend of fruit from six MGA sites: Terlo and Liste (in Barolo), Ravera di Monforte and Mosconi (in Monforte d’Alba) and Gabutti and Baudana (in Serralunga d’Alba).2018 is restrained in feel, but all the elements are so well balanced. Freshly cut flowers, mint, crushed ro
$218
$208ea in any 3+
$198ea in any 6+

Luigi Baudana Barolo ‘Baudana’ 2021

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

Nebbiolo, Barolo, Serralunga, Baudana = Enough Said! The 2021 Barolo Baudana is another super-sensual wine from the estate. Silky tannins wrap around a core of red cherry/red plum fruit, blood orange, cinnamon and flowers. A wine with striking inner perfume, the 2021 is captivating from start to finish.Antonio Galloni, Vinous 95 Points 95 ML
$218
$208ea in any 3+
$198ea in any 6+

Luigi Baudana Barolo ‘Cerretta’ 2021

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

Nebbiolo, Barolo, Serralunga, Cerretta = Enough Said! Starting off a bit slower than the other wines in this flight, the Luigi Baudana 2021 Barolo Cerretta is quite nervous and tightly wound at this point. Cerretta in Serralunga d’Alba is known for its powerful, age-worthy wines. Despite that initial shyness, this bottle does reveal layers of sweet fruit, grenadine and tart cherry. The wine is nicely balanced with chalky, elegant tannins. Monica Larner, The Wine Advocate 95+ Points AG 95
$218
$208ea in any 3+
$198ea in any 6+

Giovanni Sordo Barolo ‘Villero’ 2019

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

Superb! An excellent Villero. Complete, pure, elegant, refined, such harmony in its youth bodes well for a little something special with the passage of time. The first time I had Sordo’s Villero was the 2015 and it blew my mind. 2013, 2016, 2017 followed. All superb. The 2019 is right up there. Seriously good.Right now across all the 2019's the acid sits marginally proud. For wines of this calibre I'm stoked to see the balance where it’s at in their youth. In just a few years it will r
$219
$212ea in any 3+
$205ea in any 6+
The 2017 Barolo Mosconi is a powerful, brooding wine. Black cherry, gravel, dried herbs, scorched earth, spice and leather add to an impression of gravitas. This is an especially somber, potent Barolo that needs time to soften. Even so, it will always be a brute. The substantial finish is a thing of beauty. The Barolo Mosconi emerges from the estates oldest vines, which are 70-80 years old, and is aged in barrique.Galloni
$220
$210ea in any 3+
$200ea in any 6+

Luigi Baudana Barolo ‘Baudana’ 2019

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

Nebbiolo, Barolo, Serralunga, Baudana = Enough Said! The 2019 Barolo Baudana is absolutely captivating. Effusive and bright in the glass, with tons of freshness and remarkable fruit purity, the Baudana offers up generous dark red fruit, spice, leather, kirsch, hard candy, cedar, tobacco and underbrush. There's terrific depth here and exceptional balance, too. Rose petal, white pepper and chalk lift the high-toned, intensely saline finish.Antonio Galloni, Vinous 96 Points 94 ML
$221
$211ea in any 3+
$201ea in any 6+

Margherita Otto ‘M8’ Barolo 2017

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

This one's another argument for blending sites! From a disciple of Maria Theresa Mascarello. The 2017 M8 is a blend of Castiglione Falletto, Monforte & Serralunga fruit! I rarely buy wine site unseen. I did so with the 2016 M8. I couldn’t resist! The story and experience behind Allan Manley’s launch of his own venture has seen him work with a veritable who’s who of Barolo ending with Maria Theresa Mascarello where he still works. As you might expect he’s a proponent of blended Barolo vs
The 2017 Barolo Monvigliero marries the raciness of the year with the floral lift and elegance of this great Verduno site. More than anything, the 2017 is a Barolo of pure and total sensuality. Even so, there is more than enough tannin to allow the 2017 to drink well for many years to come. It is very clearly one of the wines of the vintage. The rich, substantial finish is a thing of real beauty.Antonio Galloni, Vinous
$228
$218ea in any 3+
$208ea in any 6+

Giacomo Conterno Barbera d’Alba ‘Francia’ 2019

Barbera | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

The 2019 Barbera d'Alba Vigna Francia marries elegance, power and energy. Inky blue/purplish fruit, menthol, licorice and sage are some of the nuances that build as this creamy, textured Barbera slowly opens in the glass. The Francia is wonderfully somber and mysterious, with striking shades of dimension that reveal themselves over time. The 2019 was just bottled, but its pedigree is evident.Antonio Galloni, Vinous
$222ea in any 3+
$215ea in any 6+