1

Italy

Alto Piemonte

Until the end of the 19th century, before phylloxera ravaged its vineyards, every slope and hill in this area was covered with vines. At the time, wines from Ghemme, Boca and Gattinara, to name just three of the seven, nowadays dwarf-like denominations, commanded higher prices in the grand cafes and restaurants of Turin than the crus of Burgundy.

A brief history of Alto Piemonte by Walter Speller

The area never recovered from the double whammy of phylloxera and a devastating spring frost in 1904 that eradicated whole swathes of its vineyards. The ensuing crisis forced many grape growers to abandon their properties and to emigrate overseas or move to Turin and Milan to build a new existence there.

Nature took its course and shrubs and woods soon took over the ancient vineyard sites. Remnants of its former glory stubbornly survived into the 20th century, until in the 1970s it was dealt another blow when a wave of modernisation swept through Italy’s cellars. It triggered a fashion for concentrated, fullbodied, deeply coloured wines, often aged in French barriques, and strongly advocated by Italy’s all-powerful wine guides. In the process the fresh, elegant wines from Alto Piemonte were reduced to mere anachronisms in what had now become ‘modern Italy’.

Statistics give a glimpse of the enormous scale of the decline. From the reported 40,000 ha (100,000 acres) of vineyards at the end of the 19th century only 780 ha remain today, with Boca (9.61 ha), Bramaterra (26.6 ha), Fara (4.82 ha), Lessona (17.5 ha), Ghemme (25.74 ha) and Sizzano (4.80 ha) mere snippets compared with Gattinara’s 63.93 ha. The total extinction of the smallest of these minuscule DOCs was prevented only by the creation of two overarching denominations, Colline Novaresi (which includes Boca, Ghemme, Sizzano and Fara) and Coste della Sesia (Lessona and Gattinara) in 2011. Although farmers continue to cultivate grapes here, their holdings are often less than half a hectare, which makes estate bottling not a viable option, which is why most of the grapes are sold off to co-ops or merchant-bottlers.


The reds from Alto Piedmonte are typically blends of Spanna AKA Nebbiolo with a splash of Croatina or Vespolina depending on the sub-Region.


Nervi-Conterno's Latest!


The Rosato!

Nebbiolo makes fantastic fresh Rosé This is delicious, dry fine juice with a mouthwatering acid structure. Roses and musk, a little spice, and a nice bit of chalky grip at play. Red fruits galore fresh and delicious. Excellent core of energetic fruit with that very Italian sweep of silvery bitterness that cleanses the palate beautifully. A triumph!
$67
$64ea in any 3+
$61ea in any 6+

The Gattinara!

Nervi-Conterno Gattinara 2020

Nebbiolo | Italy, Gattinara

Historically these wines have had Amazing transparency, sophistication shining though. Alto Piemonte saw another productive vintage in 2020 with no significant hail or frost events. It was a warm year with well-timed rains and a harvest that started early, but not excessively so. Early indications are of a strong set of wines. Looking forward to trying this when it hits the warehouse. Grab a set Conterno's Sensory Glasses to swirl it around in too! The 2020 Gattinara is elegant and lif
$239
$229ea in any 3+
$219ea in any 6+

Nervi-Conterno Gattinara 2017

Nebbiolo | Italy, Gattinara

Amazing transparency, sophistication shining though. The 2017 Gattinara is terrific. It will also give readers something to drink without waiting decades. In 2017, the Gattinara is a bit richer than it often is - the result of the warm dry year – but its profile is super-classic. Sweet pipe tobacco, mint, dried herbs, licorice, dried cherry and Alpine herbs fill out its ample frame effortlessly. I would give the 2017 a few years in bottle, but it won’t need more than that to start drinking w
$186
$181ea in any 3+
$176ea in any 6+

The Cru’s!

Nervi-Conterno Gattinara ‘Molsino’ 2019

Nebbiolo | Italy, Alto Piemonte

The 2019 Gattinara Molsino is a dark, brooding wine. Smoke, incense, licorice and leather open in the glass, but only with great reluctance. A wine of tremendous persistence and presence, the Molsino is so impressive in 2019. It is also embryonic and in need of cellaring. The only question is how long. Time in the glass brings out the wine's natural resonance, offering a glimpse of what will come in time. Drink 2029-2049 Antonio Galloni, Vinous 97 Points
$431
$421ea in any 3+
$411ea in any 6+

Nervi-Conterno Gattinara ‘Valferana’ 2019

Nebbiolo | Italy, Alto Piemonte

The 2019 Gattinara Valferrana is a dark, potent wine. It deftly marries fruit intensity with elegance, with deep notes of lavender, spice, menthol and crushed rocks. Time in the glass is works wonders here. If anything, I may have underestimated this last year! Drink 2027-2049 Antonio Galloni, Vinous 96+ Points
$431
$421ea in any 3+
$411ea in any 6+

Nervi-Conterno Gattinara ‘Molsino’ 2014

Spanna | Italy, Alto Piemonte

The 2014 Gattinara Molsino is shy and introverted in its first impression, with quite a bit of intensity lurking in the background. Today, the Molsino is not as expressive as the Valferana, but its day will come. With a bit of aeration, the 2014 starts to show the structure, layers of nuance and resonance that will emerge more fully in time. Galloni Hard not to take notice wine Roberto Conterno decided to drop some coin on a new vineyard! Taking a 90% holding Nervi based in Gattinara is a

Nervi-Conterno Gattinara ‘Molsino’ 2016

Nebbiolo | Italy, Alto Piemonte

Tasted next to the Valferana, the 2016 Gattinara Vigna Molsino is much more nervous in feel. Iron, dried herbs, sweet dried cherry, mint, crushed rocks, white pepper and earthy notes give the Molsino a good deal of aromatic complexity to match its intense, saline-infused minerality. Today, though, the tannins and acids are almost overpowering. Readers will find an old-school, classically austere Gattinara that needs 10-15 years to be at its best. The 2016 is an absolute jewel of a wine, but it s
$390
$380ea in any 3+
$370ea in any 6+
The 2016 Gattinara Vigna Valferana is every bit as impressive from bottle as it was from cask. Rich and resonant, the 2016 is so supremely beautiful as it opens up in the glass. It is a wine of real breadth and textural expansiveness. Rose petal, mint, sweet dried cherry, tar, anise and orange peel are some of the nuances that emerge, but the Valferana is a wine to admire for its total sense of balance. In a word: Lights out. Make that two words. Galloni Hard not to take notice wine Robert
$720
$705ea in any 3+
$690ea in any 6+

Something to Pour it Into!

The Ultimate Glass for the Neb-Head! Sensory was conceived in July, 2017, after a discussion between the Winery Conterno Giacomo and Zwiesel Kristallglas. Conterno wanted to create a wine glass that fully enhances the characteristics of great wines. In the designing stage they focused on a shape that involves all the senses; thus the name Sensory was born. The glass expresses sensuality to the eye; it is perfectly balanced in the hand as well as producing a clear and lasting sound. The large b
$167
$162ea for 2+
$157ea for 4+
$152ea for 6+

The Queen of Gattinara - Antoniolo!


Antoniolo Gattinara Riserva DOCG 2017

Nebbiolo | Italy, Alto Piemonte

The Gattinara Riserva has an entrancing set of aromas and flavours, dark fruits, woody herbs, a little savoury and truffly with a top note perfume to round it out. Fresh yet beautifully developed, flowing with generous fruit of a weightless feel. The mouthfeel has a vitalising grip that sits beautifully with juicy, fine acid. Fantastic drinking! It feels like the 2016 with a little extra pop of energy! That my friends is the 3-peat! Antoniolo's Gattinaras from 2015, 2016 & 2017 are
$152
$145ea in any 3+
$138ea in any 6+
The first time we’ve managed to squeeze out an allocation of ‘San Francesco’ Saint Francesco. We are very happy! Stepping up to the two single vineyards the depth and length build. Darker and brooding, a slight reductive note washes away to reveal a savoury, truffled layer over those woody herbs. Slatey with mineral acids, sitting marginally prouder than in the other 2 Riservas and tannins of balanced grip. Finishing with lingering fruit. Given a decade the acid resolves this will
$228
$218ea in any 3+
$208ea in any 6+
Jesus wept on the Bones of Saint Gratto! The very blood of Christ! As you step through the range each wine raises the bar. The first two Riservas already shows great harmony. The Osso San Grato steps it up again. As with the 2016 the acid-tannin complex is superb, even long with an extra layer over the San Francesco. As it opens in the glass it reveals a staggering array of perfumes and flavours. Each sniff and taste reveals another. Hard not to devour now, Ridgey assures me these wi
$265
$255ea in any 3+
$245ea in any 6+

Antoniolo Gattinara Riserva DOCG 2016

Nebbiolo | Italy, Alto Piemonte

Seriously impressive gear. Antoniolo's 2016's have excellent, long linear shape. Galloni's call on power and intensity is spot on. I'd add grace and poise. Nuanced, complex, and layered. The fruit profile is excellent. This is one of the most exciting Nebbiolos I've had in some time. Given our rotating list of over 300 available Nebbiolos that is no small statement. I could wax lyrical about aromas and flavours, let's just say they are entrancing. The mouthfeel has a vitalising grip that sits
$140
$133ea in any 3+
$126ea in any 6+
Jesus wept on the Bones of Saint Gratto! The very blood of Christ! Stunning. If I ever made a wine of this caliber I’d retire on the high. Galloni’s note is bang on! The acid-tannin complex steps up again from the ‘standard’ Riserva. The tannins are layered, of depth, fine and long. You can ever so easily lose yourself in the glass! Mind-boggling complexity! "The 2015 Gattinara Riserva Osso San Grato marries finesse with power in grand style. Rose petal, sage, mint, sweet pi
$248
$238ea in any 3+
$228ea in any 6+
Jesus wept on the Bones of Saint Gratto! The very blood of Christ! Stunning. If I ever made a wine of this caliber I'd retire on the high. Galloni's note is bang on! The acid-tannin complex steps up again from the 'standard' Riserva. The tannins are layered, of depth, fine and long. You can ever so easily lose yourself in the glass! Mind-boggling! "The 2016 Gattinara Riserva Osso San Grato is magnificent. Elegant and weightless, with tremendous precision, the 2016 is all class. Rose petal
$275
$265ea in any 3+
$255ea in any 6+

 


Cantine Garrone


Stylistically think the more ethereal communes of Valtellina!

Cantine Garrone Cà’ d’Maté 2018

Red Blend | Valli Ossolane, Italy

Neb with a splash of Croatina from the FAR NORTH Divine perfume, beautifully weighted and poised. Exceptional balance and freshness, with a core of red and dark fruit that runs long with excellent mid-palate weight. Earth, savoury, incredibly layered. Delicious wine. Loads going on here. Amazing harmony and sophistication. Showing beautifully straight out of the gate with the help of a % of the generous, plush Croatina. Fun drinking!
$77
$73ea in any 3+
$69ea in any 6+

Cantine Garrone Prünent 2018

Red Blend | Valli Ossolane, Italy

Neb from the FAR NORTH ... Stylistically think the more ethereal communes of Valtellina! Brooding and darker than the Ca d’Mate with a build in structure. A little Austere, yet you can see there is much to come with time in bottle. Openning in the glass to reveal woody herbs, fresh sour cherry and complexities beyond. Such a different balance point to Barolo & Barbaresco. 13.5% sees vibrant fruit with layered dusty ripe tannins, whereas Barolo and Barbaresco need 14.5% for the same. En
$105
$100ea in any 3+
$95ea in any 6+

Produttori di Carema Riserva


Immediate step up in depth and length from the standard. Weighting here is lovely with the extra bit of drive. This very sophisticated. The delicacy with translucence yet wonderful mid-palate weight and length is there refreshing intriguing and delicious drinking straight out of the gate. Flow is long and even with super fine tannins. Barrel selection that spends 3 years in big old oak + 1 yr in bottle.
$85
$80ea in any 3+
$75ea in any 6+

Colombera & Garella's Lessona!


Beauty and sophistication, exceptional purity, a very complete wine! Incredible complexity, perfume pops, savoury layers, orange zest, dark fruits, earth, and woody herbs are just the beginning. Line and length to the shape of the palate. Thirst quenching, yet with a density of flavour that rewards. Juicy acid with fine dusty tannins complete the picture. For anyone wanting to see what Alto Piedmont is capable of this is a great place to start! 95% Spanna AKA Nebbiolo 5% Vespolina
$85
$81ea in any 3+
$77ea in any 6+

Cristiano Garella has emerged as the voice of the younger generation in Alto Piemonte and is, along with Roberto Conterno, the region’s greatest ambassador. Garella makes wines for his Colombera & Garella project and also consults for a number of other estates. I was deeply impressed with these current releases.

Antonio Galloni

Filters & Sorting

Showing 20 Delicious Wines!

Nebbiolo makes fantastic fresh Rosé This is delicious, dry fine juice with a mouthwatering acid structure. Roses and musk, a little spice, and a nice bit of chalky grip at play. Red fruits galore fresh and delicious. Excellent core of energetic fruit with that very Italian sweep of silvery bitterness that cleanses the palate beautifully. A triumph!
$67
$64ea in any 3+
$61ea in any 6+
Nebbiolo makes fantastic fresh Rosé Great to see the development on this. Nicely weighted and flowing, red fruits with some of the green / woody herb + spice. This is delicious, dry fine juice with a mouthwatering acid structure. Strong. Airy and fresh yet complex as well, the 2022 Il Rosato impresses with its lifting notes of rose, crushed stone, peach skins and lemon oil. Refined yet juicy and fruit-forward, this casts lime-tinged apple and green melon easily across the palate, energi
$72
$69ea in any 3+
$66ea in any 6+

Cantine Garrone Cà’ d’Maté 2018

Red Blend | Valli Ossolane, Italy

Neb with a splash of Croatina from the FAR NORTH Divine perfume, beautifully weighted and poised. Exceptional balance and freshness, with a core of red and dark fruit that runs long with excellent mid-palate weight. Earth, savoury, incredibly layered. Delicious wine. Loads going on here. Amazing harmony and sophistication. Showing beautifully straight out of the gate with the help of a % of the generous, plush Croatina. Fun drinking!
$77
$73ea in any 3+
$69ea in any 6+
Beauty and sophistication, exceptional purity, a very complete wine! Incredible complexity, perfume pops, savoury layers, orange zest, dark fruits, earth, and woody herbs are just the beginning. Line and length to the shape of the palate. Thirst quenching, yet with a density of flavour that rewards. Juicy acid with fine dusty tannins complete the picture. For anyone wanting to see what Alto Piedmont is capable of this is a great place to start! 95% Spanna AKA Nebbiolo 5% Vespolina
$85
$81ea in any 3+
$77ea in any 6+
Immediate step up in depth and length from the standard. Weighting here is lovely with the extra bit of drive. This very sophisticated. The delicacy with translucence yet wonderful mid-palate weight and length is there refreshing intriguing and delicious drinking straight out of the gate. Flow is long and even with super fine tannins. Barrel selection that spends 3 years in big old oak + 1 yr in bottle.
$85
$80ea in any 3+
$75ea in any 6+

Antoniotti Bramaterra 2016

Red Blend | Bramaterra, Italy

The Alto is sharing its gems with us! Antoniotti's Bramaterra is a stunner. A blend of 70% Nebbiolo, 20% Croatina, 7% Vespolina & 3 % Bonarda, it just keeps giving, sniff after sniff offering up something new and special, layered, earthy, savoury, a little pine resin, spice, blue fruits and more. A richness of fruit, that I suspect is fortified by the Coratina and Vespolica, yet freshness rests beautifully in a cradle of suitably edgy Neb tannin that has you salivating for more! If this
$88
$84ea in any 3+
$80ea in any 6+

Cantine Garrone Prünent 2018

Red Blend | Valli Ossolane, Italy

Neb from the FAR NORTH ... Stylistically think the more ethereal communes of Valtellina! Brooding and darker than the Ca d’Mate with a build in structure. A little Austere, yet you can see there is much to come with time in bottle. Openning in the glass to reveal woody herbs, fresh sour cherry and complexities beyond. Such a different balance point to Barolo & Barbaresco. 13.5% sees vibrant fruit with layered dusty ripe tannins, whereas Barolo and Barbaresco need 14.5% for the same. En
$105
$100ea in any 3+
$95ea in any 6+

Antoniolo Gattinara Riserva DOCG 2016

Nebbiolo | Italy, Alto Piemonte

Seriously impressive gear. Antoniolo's 2016's have excellent, long linear shape. Galloni's call on power and intensity is spot on. I'd add grace and poise. Nuanced, complex, and layered. The fruit profile is excellent. This is one of the most exciting Nebbiolos I've had in some time. Given our rotating list of over 300 available Nebbiolos that is no small statement. I could wax lyrical about aromas and flavours, let's just say they are entrancing. The mouthfeel has a vitalising grip that sits
$140
$133ea in any 3+
$126ea in any 6+

Antoniolo Gattinara Riserva DOCG 2017

Nebbiolo | Italy, Alto Piemonte

The Gattinara Riserva has an entrancing set of aromas and flavours, dark fruits, woody herbs, a little savoury and truffly with a top note perfume to round it out. Fresh yet beautifully developed, flowing with generous fruit of a weightless feel. The mouthfeel has a vitalising grip that sits beautifully with juicy, fine acid. Fantastic drinking! It feels like the 2016 with a little extra pop of energy! That my friends is the 3-peat! Antoniolo's Gattinaras from 2015, 2016 & 2017 are
$152
$145ea in any 3+
$138ea in any 6+

Nervi-Conterno Gattinara 2017

Nebbiolo | Italy, Gattinara

Amazing transparency, sophistication shining though. The 2017 Gattinara is terrific. It will also give readers something to drink without waiting decades. In 2017, the Gattinara is a bit richer than it often is - the result of the warm dry year – but its profile is super-classic. Sweet pipe tobacco, mint, dried herbs, licorice, dried cherry and Alpine herbs fill out its ample frame effortlessly. I would give the 2017 a few years in bottle, but it won’t need more than that to start drinking w
$186
$181ea in any 3+
$176ea in any 6+
The first time we’ve managed to squeeze out an allocation of ‘San Francesco’ Saint Francesco. We are very happy! Stepping up to the two single vineyards the depth and length build. Darker and brooding, a slight reductive note washes away to reveal a savoury, truffled layer over those woody herbs. Slatey with mineral acids, sitting marginally prouder than in the other 2 Riservas and tannins of balanced grip. Finishing with lingering fruit. Given a decade the acid resolves this will
$228
$218ea in any 3+
$208ea in any 6+

Nervi-Conterno Gattinara 2020

Nebbiolo | Italy, Gattinara

Historically these wines have had Amazing transparency, sophistication shining though. Alto Piemonte saw another productive vintage in 2020 with no significant hail or frost events. It was a warm year with well-timed rains and a harvest that started early, but not excessively so. Early indications are of a strong set of wines. Looking forward to trying this when it hits the warehouse. Grab a set Conterno's Sensory Glasses to swirl it around in too! The 2020 Gattinara is elegant and lif
$239
$229ea in any 3+
$219ea in any 6+
Jesus wept on the Bones of Saint Gratto! The very blood of Christ! Stunning. If I ever made a wine of this caliber I’d retire on the high. Galloni’s note is bang on! The acid-tannin complex steps up again from the ‘standard’ Riserva. The tannins are layered, of depth, fine and long. You can ever so easily lose yourself in the glass! Mind-boggling complexity! "The 2015 Gattinara Riserva Osso San Grato marries finesse with power in grand style. Rose petal, sage, mint, sweet pi
$248
$238ea in any 3+
$228ea in any 6+
Jesus wept on the Bones of Saint Gratto! The very blood of Christ! As you step through the range each wine raises the bar. The first two Riservas already shows great harmony. The Osso San Grato steps it up again. As with the 2016 the acid-tannin complex is superb, even long with an extra layer over the San Francesco. As it opens in the glass it reveals a staggering array of perfumes and flavours. Each sniff and taste reveals another. Hard not to devour now, Ridgey assures me these wi
$265
$255ea in any 3+
$245ea in any 6+
Jesus wept on the Bones of Saint Gratto! The very blood of Christ! Stunning. If I ever made a wine of this caliber I'd retire on the high. Galloni's note is bang on! The acid-tannin complex steps up again from the 'standard' Riserva. The tannins are layered, of depth, fine and long. You can ever so easily lose yourself in the glass! Mind-boggling! "The 2016 Gattinara Riserva Osso San Grato is magnificent. Elegant and weightless, with tremendous precision, the 2016 is all class. Rose petal
$275
$265ea in any 3+
$255ea in any 6+

Nervi-Conterno Gattinara ‘Molsino’ 2014

Spanna | Italy, Alto Piemonte

The 2014 Gattinara Molsino is shy and introverted in its first impression, with quite a bit of intensity lurking in the background. Today, the Molsino is not as expressive as the Valferana, but its day will come. With a bit of aeration, the 2014 starts to show the structure, layers of nuance and resonance that will emerge more fully in time. Galloni Hard not to take notice wine Roberto Conterno decided to drop some coin on a new vineyard! Taking a 90% holding Nervi based in Gattinara is a