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Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée [AOC]

In France, the appellation d’origine contrôlée (“controlled designation of origin”), or AOC, is a certification of authenticity granted to certain geographical indications for agricultural products, including cheese, meats, butter and most importantly, wine!

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In France, the appellation d’origine contrôlée (“controlled designation of origin”), or AOC, is a certification of authenticity and quality granted to certain geographical indications for agricultural products, including cheese, meats, butter and most importantly, wine. It is a system governed by the Institut national de l’origine et de la qualité (INAO), and is based upon ideas of terroir and a form of geographic and cultural protection.

France established the INAO in 1935 in an effort to control the reputation of wine and other cultural foods. Support for the creation of the AOC itself was in large part due to winemaker Baron Pierre Le Roy, which led to the first designated AOC: Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

By 1937, the establishment of the AOC for classic winemaking regions such as Bordeaux, Burgundy, and Champagne took place, setting about standards and rules that are still in effect today. For example, AOC laws ensure that if you buy a bottle of French wine labelled “Champagne,” you’re getting a sparkling wine made in the traditional method from the region of Champagne with Chardonnay, Meunier, and/or Pinot Noir.

There are currently over 300 French wines entitled to the designation AOC on their label, along with several potential designations within an AOC that reflect location and quality. For example:

  • Regional: This refers to the broadest sense of an AOC. Examples: Bordeaux, Burgundy.
  • Sub-Regional: Within those regions are smaller subregions known for more specific wine or terroir. Examples: Bordeaux’s Médoc sub-region, Burgundy’s Chablis sub-region.
  • Commune/Village: Narrowing further within a subregion, these areas are sometimes only a few miles in scope. Examples: Pauillac in Médoc, Côtes d’Auxerre in Chablis.
  • Special Classification: An AOC might be further specified for quality at this point, indicating a Cru, which refers to a specific vineyard or group of vineyards typically recognized for quality.

Similar systems exist in other European countires, such as the Denominazione di Origine Controllata in Italy.

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Old vine depth & persistence

Domaine SC Guillard Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes ‘Réniard’ 2019

Pinot Noir | Gevrey-Chambertin, Côte-de-Nuits

There is lovely perfume lift and a purity of fruit. The palate is beautifully balanced and finely structured Deep crimson deep purple tints, very deep color. The nose is layered with berry fruit, raspberry, wild strawberry, again cassis enters the fray with some blackberry fruit notes. There is lovely perfume lift and a purity of fruit. The palate is beautifully balanced and finely structured with spice, red berry loads of silky tannins and a long driven finish. The old vines providing depth and
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KO 98 AG 93+
The 2019 Barbaresco Riserva Montefico is one of the most searingly tannic wines in the range. Readers will have to be patient with the 2019, as it is going to need time. As always, Montefico is a Barbaresco built on linear intensity more than size. In 2019, the qualities are quite accented. Time in the glass opens the bouquet nicely, but the 2019 remains quite closed. Antonio Galloni, Vinous 93+ Points KO 98 *NOTE Galloni tasted in Sept 2023 noting his intent to look at the PdB Riserva
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Cogno Barolo ‘Ravera’ 2017

Nebbiolo | Novello, Italy

"These vineyards represent the classic side of our production. They make elegant, smooth, and fresh wines with a fine aroma." Valter Fissore "The 2017 Barolo Ravera is a beautiful, precise wine. Bright acids and veins of tannin give the 2017 terrific energy that carries all the way through to the finish. Crushed flowers, sweet red berry fruit, chalk, white pepper and spice all open with a bit of coaxing. This is very nicely done." Antonio Galloni, Vinous
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For all the many great things that can be told about Giacosa’s red wines, it is the Arneis that maybe typifies the great qualities of Bruno Giacosa the man. In the early 1970’s, this was an indigenous variety almost entirely lost to the region’s obsession with red wines (at the time mainly Dolcetto) that was ‘rediscovered’ by Alfredo Currado of Vietti and Giacosa very shortly after. The two are almost solely responsible for Arneis’ current importance in the region, especially in Roer
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