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Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée [AOC]

In France, the appellation d’origine contrôlée (“controlled designation of origin”), or AOC, is a certification of authenticity granted to certain geographical indications for agricultural products, including cheese, meats, butter and most importantly, wine!

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In France, the appellation d’origine contrôlée (“controlled designation of origin”), or AOC, is a certification of authenticity and quality granted to certain geographical indications for agricultural products, including cheese, meats, butter and most importantly, wine. It is a system governed by the Institut national de l’origine et de la qualité (INAO), and is based upon ideas of terroir and a form of geographic and cultural protection.

France established the INAO in 1935 in an effort to control the reputation of wine and other cultural foods. Support for the creation of the AOC itself was in large part due to winemaker Baron Pierre Le Roy, which led to the first designated AOC: Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

By 1937, the establishment of the AOC for classic winemaking regions such as Bordeaux, Burgundy, and Champagne took place, setting about standards and rules that are still in effect today. For example, AOC laws ensure that if you buy a bottle of French wine labelled “Champagne,” you’re getting a sparkling wine made in the traditional method from the region of Champagne with Chardonnay, Meunier, and/or Pinot Noir.

There are currently over 300 French wines entitled to the designation AOC on their label, along with several potential designations within an AOC that reflect location and quality. For example:

  • Regional: This refers to the broadest sense of an AOC. Examples: Bordeaux, Burgundy.
  • Sub-Regional: Within those regions are smaller subregions known for more specific wine or terroir. Examples: Bordeaux’s Médoc sub-region, Burgundy’s Chablis sub-region.
  • Commune/Village: Narrowing further within a subregion, these areas are sometimes only a few miles in scope. Examples: Pauillac in Médoc, Côtes d’Auxerre in Chablis.
  • Special Classification: An AOC might be further specified for quality at this point, indicating a Cru, which refers to a specific vineyard or group of vineyards typically recognized for quality.

Similar systems exist in other European countires, such as the Denominazione di Origine Controllata in Italy.

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Les Champonnets, situated on the same line as the Grands Crus and very near to Ruchottes-Chambertin, is tucked up high near the entrance of the Lavaux combe (or valley). Mortet's parcel here used to make up almost half of his 1er Cru bottling above, and 2014 was the first year this parcel was vinified and bottled separately. It comes from a combination of very old vines (60-70 years old) and some younger, at around 30 years old. The soil is deep, yet with a strong limestone component that shows
$510
$490ea in any 3+
$470ea in any 6+
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Philipponnat Royale Reserve NV

Blend | Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, Champagne

Disgorged in June 2020 with eight grams per liter dosage, the latest release of Philipponnat's NV Brut Royale Réserve is based on the 2016 vintage, with 27% reserve wines. Offering up aromas of peach, pear and plum mingled with apple blossom and sweet pastry, it's medium to full-bodied, fleshy and expressive, with a pillowy mousse and a generous core of fruit, underpinned by bright acids. William Kelly
$107
$102ea in any 3+
$97ea in any 6+
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Domaine Hubert Lignier Morey-Saint-Denis 1er ‘Chaffots’ 2019

Pinot Noir | Morey-Saint-Denis, Burgundy

From a higher-altitude site located in a former quarry, Lignier's 2019 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Les Chaffots unwinds in the glass with aromas of earthy wild berries, cherries, licorice and warm spices. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and layered, it's lively and precise, with a more tightly wound, lower-pH profile than the Riotte. William Kelley, Parker's Wine Advocate 92-94 Points AM 91-94 ♥ Sweet spot Outstanding
$412
$397ea in any 3+
$382ea in any 6+
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Excellent élévage yet so very tight. Graphite mineral thing. Long even tannins, fine vibrant red fruit fresh red cherry. Pure grape first Syrah with much more going on. Lovely shape. Longer finer feel compared with Villard’s Saint-Joseph that uses much more whole bunch. It’s a matter of preference and difference not necessarily quality between the two. More to come from both with a few years in bottle. Excellent Syrah!
$88
$84ea in any 3+
$80ea in any 6+
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