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Red Wine
Nebbiolo from Valtellina tends to be more feminine, tannin management more critical during the winemaking process. Well managed vineyards produce wines with a great core of vibrant fruit and fine texture.
Nebbiolo, pronounced NEH-bee-oh-low, is such a unique variety. The name is derived from the Italian word Nebbia meaning fog.
Two theories for the name exist. The first that it refers to the fog that the vineyards of the Langhe are often immersed in. Second that the natural bloom that covers the grapes gives them a foggy appearance. Given the latter applies to most red grapes I prefer the former! There are 4 main clones of which Nebbiolo Lampia dominates over Nebbiolo Michet, Rosé (now proven to be a different variety), and, Bolla.
Southern central and north Piemonte: Langhe including Verduno, Roero, Ast, Carema, Biella, Novara and Vercelli. In Alto Piedmonte’s Gattinara, it is known as Spanna, we have seen Giacomo Conterno buy Nervi to produce wines in this region. It is also grown in the lower parts of the Valle d’Aosta where it is known as Picotendroi, and, Valtellina in Lombardy where it is called Chiavennasca among others.
The ultimate case of not judging a book by its cover, Nebbiolo, at first appears pale in colour, old wines can have the appearance of rusty tap water.
Then you smell it! The aroma of most red wines is dominated by fruit characters. In contrast, Nebbiolo’s aroma is typically a mix of complex secondary aromas, earthy, tarry, spice, rose, citrus peel, woody herbs like rosemary, liquorice, phenol, dark chocolate, tobacco, truffles, leather, and, dark cherry fruit, often more evident on the palate. You’ll see this difference immediately by comparing it two the other two main Piedmontese varieties Barbera and Dolcetto.
Good Nebbiolo has a core of fruit running the length of your tongue, along with layers of those same secondary characters. Nebbiolo’s grape tannins give it a distinct texture, that for those who have not tried it before can seem hard, and, unyielding. Look for the quality and depth of tannin.
Achieving well balance tannin, alcohol, and, acidity makes for great Nebbiolo.
More than most other Italian wines, Nebbiolo, demands food to be at it’s best. A little fat and salt, enhance the texture and bring out the flavours.
Showing of wines
Nebbiolo from Inferno, Valtellina
Crystal clear with a more savoury flavour profile. As it opens in the glass it comes together beautifully! This too is very good. Crystal clear with a more savoury flavour profile. Took a bit longer for this to open up. As it did it came together beautifully, the tannins have a little more presence here. The flowers are at play around the edges. The rounder mid-palate differentiates Sassella from Inferno. It’s a little about celebrating the differences once again. As always ArPePe offer up e
Nebbiolo from Sassella, Valtellina
The 2018 Valtellina Superiore Inferno Riserva Sesto Canto is poised, elegant and exceptionally polished. Brisk acids and beams of supporting tannin give this deceptively mid-weight Riserva tons of energy. The 2018 remains vibrant and super-expressive, perhaps a bit linear, but immensely enjoyable just the same.Antonio Galloni, Vinous 94 Points
Nebbiolo from Sassella, Valtellina
The 2018 Valtellina Superiore Sassella Riserva Rocce Rosse is bright, lifted and translucent in the glass. It offers striking intensity and yet remains light on its feet. Crushed red berry fruit, white flowers, mint, chalk and tangerine peel build with time in the glass, filling out the layers effortlessly. There is a feeling of translucency here that is utterly beguiling. Readers will find a wine of real stature and pedigree. Antonio Galloni, Vinous 94 Points
Nebbiolo from Grumello, Valtellina
The church of Sant’Antonio a Montagna in Valtellina lies to the east of Rocca De Piro. For centuries, it has protected from on high the vineyards that stretch down along the Risc di Sassina, one of the most generous areas of the Grumello, 450 metres above sea level.Valtellina Superiore Grumello Riserva Sant’Antonio DOCG is brought to life by its long maceration and malolactic fermentation with skin contact. Cuddled and cared for like a child by a generous, resolute mother, it matures
Chiavennasca from Grumello, Valtellina
The 2018 Valtellina Superiore Grumello Riserva Buon Consiglio is gorgeous. Crushed red berry fruit, cedar, sweet pipe tobacco and pomegranate are all very nicely lifted. Soft contours and mid-weight structure give the 2018 tons of sensuality and overall appeal. Its balance is spot on. Antonio Galloni, Vinous 93 Points
Nebbiolo from Sassella, Valtellina
The name has changed from Vigna Regina to Nuova Regina the wine is the same ... Delicious! Sassella is typically the most elegant of the Communes made by Ar.Pe.Pe.The new queen. Cherry, liquorice root, alpine and dried flower perfume with some exotic spice. Medium-bodied, delicious juicy red fruit, fine grained crushed rock tannin, lots of rose oil and a little mandarin peel, with a fine stony finish of impeccable length. Gee, this is a beautiful wine.Antonio Galloni, Vinous 90
Nebbiolo from Sassella, Valtellina
Late harvest quasi sforzato play here. There’s fun to be had here. ArPePe play in between a full-blown sforzato and the rest of their Riserva range makes for a fun balance. Completely dry, it introduces a level of richness and extra layer of tannin.The 2018 Valtellina Superiore Sassella Riserva Ultimi Raggi is powerful and intense in its fruit expression, but also mature. Candied fruit, spice, tobacco, leather and dried
Chiavennasca from Grumello, Valtellina
Beautifully composed, flowing and elegant for a Grumello a commune that can show a little more overt grunt in the context of Valtellina. While there is a rounder mid palate the delicacy entrances. Incredibly layered and fine. The fruit marries woody herbs, spice tea and beyond with a blood orange feel. Long though not quite the length of the Sant’Antonio. Fine drinking to be had here.Very fine, pure, ultra-mineral expression of Nebbiolo here. Strawberry, raspberry, spice, fennel, min
Nebbiolo from Sassella, Valtellina
The name has changed from Vigna Regina to Nuova Regina the wine is the same ... Delicious! Sassella is typically the most elegant of the Communes made by Ar.Pe.Pe. The Nuova Regina is clearly the most sophisticated of the 2016 Riserva crop.The perfume here ramps up a notch, delicacy and intrigue with underlying power all be it in a mid-weight wine. Constantly changing and evolving with each sniff. The flow, shape and mouthfeel are impeccable. Vibrant red fruit with woody herbs tea, blood ora
Nebbiolo from Sassella, Valtellina
The Rocce Rosse has a darker feel. Currently, I perceive it as a little richer with an extra squirt of tannin to hold it. Dark spiced, long firm yet fine tannins. Like the Nuova Regina and Sant’Antonio it lingers for some time. Again there is real beauty here. It unfolds in the glass revealing layer after layer. Incredible, complete wine of exceptional balance. It is unfair to separate the two Sassella, they are both stunning. Drinking the pair together on any given night over the next 1
Nebbiolo from Grumello, Valtellina
Once again my preferred Grumello from Ar.Pe.Pe. A build in perceived fruit weight length and depth over the Bon Consiglio with immediate generosity make for superb drinking out of the gate. Comparing this to the 2009 consumed a couple of weeks ago I foresee this building in complexity from an already complex starting point and achieving the incredible transparency of the 2009 as it moves into the next stage of development. Although it will be hard to keep your hands off it!The church of
Nebbiolo from Sassella, Valtellina
Late harvest quasi sforzato play here. There’s fun to be had here. ArPePe play in between a full-blown sforzato and the rest of their Riserva range makes for a fun balance. Completely dry, it introduces a level of richness and extra layer of tannin. Gary's note captures it well.Harvest is November 10th, because they leave the grapes to dry out and shrivel a little. It’s from the highest part of Sassella, sitting at 600m above sea level. Cherry, blackberry, plum, dried mint, spic
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