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I often find myself frustrated tasting through hundreds of wines a week. Too boring, to ripe, to technical, just no fun. Speeding through a trade tasting of wines from around the world, I was about ready to walk out when I spied a few wines that made me pause. Paolo Scarvino’s Baroli. The afternoon turned into an epic success. In front of may lay a cluster of real wines. Cru, single vineyard, Baroli this beautiful are less common than you think! These were wines that inspired, poured by Riccardo who clearly knew what he was talking about, lived it, breathed it. It seems passion runs through the veins of the entire business!
Looking at Scavino’s website I found these words which sum up the Paolo Scavino wines:
“Through over 60 years of experience his focus has been to invest on important cru of Nebbiolo to show the uniqueness of each terroir.
Their work is inspired by the love and respect they have for their territory and they pursue purity of expression, complexity and elegance for their wines from the three local grapes Dolcetto, Barbera and Nebbiolo.”
The most important words: respect, purity of expression, complexity, and elegance.
Combine these with a winemaking approach that clearly demonstrates the wisdom that only time and experience can afford a winemaker, and, the results are individual wines of great personality and intrigue. These are the kind of wines that shift you from very good to great.
“He has an open, sunny face and looks at you with confidence because he knows he will never find the words to defend his world but that his wines can defend themselves… He seems an old-fashioned man but he chose to be a winegrower and knows how to observe progress without any conservative reactionary. For each wine produced, depending on the vintage, the right path is chosen without blindly following tradition and without passively following every innovation. He does not love excess” – Luigi Veronelli, I vignaioli storici, volume n.3, testi di Nichi Stefi, Mediolanum Editori Associati, 1988
With a clear transition underway to his daughters Enrica and Elisa it looks like Paolo Scavino will be in good hands for decades to come.
“There is plenty to like about the 2017 Barolos… In tasting, the 2017s are mid-weight Barolos with the classic structure of Nebbiolo. They are often intensely aromatic. Acids and tannins are prominent in many wines. The fruit profiles are ripe, often distinctly redtoned, but not cooked or over-ripe. Perhaps most importantly, the 2017 Barolos are very true to site, which is always a concern with vintages marked by warm weather. The best 2017s are exceptionally polished, vivid and flat-out delicious”
Galloni
Galloni does an excellent job exploring the 2017 growing season and vintage in his article “2017 Barolo: Here We Go Again…” It’s clear the growers and makers of Piedmont have got their heads around warmer vintages and how to get the most in both the vineyard, and, the winery.
Founded in 1921 in Castiglione Falletto, Paolo Scavino under the guidance of Enrico, and, now his daughters, Enrica and Elisa have amassed a superb collection of Cru vineyards in Barolo, representing 20 of 29 hectares with parcels across each of the communes.
These are some of the best sites across Barolo. Click the map to link to an interactive page on Scavino’s website.
The 2017 Barolo Carobric is one of the standouts in this range, as it often is. It has an extra dimension of depth and volume that works so well here. Sweet red cherry, cedar, sweet pipe tobacco, anise and brambly notes build as this striking, expressive Barolo shows off its considerable charm. What a pretty wine it is. 2027-2042
Where in the world does the magic happen?
Paolo Scavino
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