Francesco Versio Barbaresco ‘San Cristoforo’ 2016

Why is this Wine so Yummy?

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Francesco is a true native of Barbaresco, coming from Albesani, a hamlet nestled just north of and between Neive and the town of Barbaresco itself. After completing his winemaking studies at the University of Turin, and following a brief period at a local co-operative, he joined Bruno Giacosa, initially under the watchful eye of respected oenologist Dante Scaglione. In due course, Francesco assumed the role of chief winemaker at this illustrious estate and continues to hold that enviable position today. There’s no question that this young man (still only in his mid-thirties) is one of the budding superstars of Piedmont in his own right, and his wines seem almost destined to command the same sort of respect and one might say cult following as those of his illustrious employer in the foreseeable future. He is right at the forefront of the next wave of sought-after and sophisticated yet classic wines from this great region with the potential to be right up there with the very best.

The Vineyards

With great foresight, or perhaps a sixth-sense of their yet unborn son’s destiny, Francesco’s parents wisely purchased two plots of mature vines in the esteemed commune of Neive, home to Giacosa. One holding is in the vineyard of San Cristoforo, the other in Curra. Although contiguous, they show distinctive individual character. San Cristoforo, planted in 1969, has more limestone, and offers freshness and perfume, while Curra, replanted in 2015, on sandy alluvial soil, imparts warmth and richness. In fact, it’s not unusual for producers to hold back wines from this cru for a year longer than other single vineyard releases as they tend to be bigger and more “backward”. To combine them seems natural. With Curra having not yet yielding, Versio purchased fruit from the nearby Cotta vineyard was used to supplement the 2016 vintage. In 2017, hail damage in San Cristoforo necessitated bottling an alternate Barbaresco from the Rombone vineyard in Treiso, a vineyard that Figli Luigi Oddero release a single cru wine from each year. We won’t see this wine again until the 2018 is released!

Winemaking

For many years the family sold the grapes from these holdings, but eventually, the time was right, and Francesco took the next step in his winemaking journey. Using local facilities in Neive, the first Barbaresco under his own label was crafted from the 2013 vintage, an excellent one it must be said. The winemaking is of course influenced by the Giacosa tradition, and fits into that classic Barbaresco style. Interestingly, Francesco has opted to use Stockinger large format oak, crafted in Austria and more and more becoming the choice of discerning, leading-edge European winemakers.

The 2016 Vintage in Barbaresco

Francesco explores the 2016 vintage in Barbaresco.

In the video below Francesco explores a few elements of his Nebbiolo from the San Cristoforo Cru. Take careful note of the small size of his Nebbiolo bunches and the light, almost translucent colour of the skins. You can’t see through the skins of varieties like Shiraz and Cabernet.

In the video below Francesco explores the Giacosa’s Falleto vineyard. I’ve included this as it explores aspects important to growing Nebbiolo.