Red Wine

Nebbiolo

Nebbiolo, pronounced NEH-bee-oh-low, is such a unique variety. The name is derived from the Italian word Nebbia meaning fog.

Two theories for the name exist. The first that it refers to the fog that the vineyards of the Langhe are often immersed in. Second that the natural bloom that covers the grapes gives them a foggy appearance. Given the latter applies to most red grapes I prefer the former! There are 4 main clones of which Nebbiolo Lampia dominates over Nebbiolo Michet, Rosé (now proven to be a different variety), and, Bolla.

Where is it grown?

Southern central and north Piemonte. The two big guns here are Barolo and Barbaresco. It is grown throughout the Langhe including the Roero, Asti, Carema, Biella, Novara and Vercelli. In Alto Piedmonte, it is known as Spanna, and, is often blended with Croatina and Vespolina. We have seen Giacomo Conterno buy Nervi in the Commune of Gattinara to produce wines in the region. It is also grown in the lower parts of the Valle d’Aosta where it is known as Picotendroi, and, Valtellina in Lombardy where it is called Chiavennasca among others.

What does it taste like?

The ultimate case of not judging a book by its cover, Nebbiolo, at first appears pale in colour, old wines can have the appearance of rusty tap water.

Then you smell it! The aroma of most red wines is dominated by fruit characters. In contrast, Nebbiolo’s aroma is typically a mix of complex secondary aromas, earthy, tarry, spice, rose, citrus peel, woody herbs like rosemary, liquorice, phenol, dark chocolate, tobacco, truffles, leather, and, dark cherry fruit, often more evident on the palate. You’ll see this difference immediately by comparing it two the other two main Piedmontese varieties Barbera and Dolcetto.

Good Nebbiolo has a core of fruit running the length of your tongue, along with layers of those same secondary characters. Nebbiolo’s grape tannins give it a distinct texture, that for those who have not tried it before can seem hard, and, unyielding. Look for the quality and depth of tannin.

Achieving well balance tannin, alcohol, and, acidity makes for great Nebbiolo.

More than most other Italian wines, Nebbiolo, demands food to be at its best. A little fat and salt, enhance the texture and bring out the flavours.

Check out all the articles in the Wine Bites Mag exploring Nebbiolo.

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KO 98 AG 93+

Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva ‘Montefico’ 2019

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barbaresco

The 2019 Barbaresco Riserva Montefico is one of the most searingly tannic wines in the range. Readers will have to be patient with the 2019, as it is going to need time. As always, Montefico is a Barbaresco built on linear intensity more than size. In 2019, the qualities are quite accented. Time in the glass opens the bouquet nicely, but the 2019 remains quite closed. Antonio Galloni, Vinous 93+ Points KO 98 *NOTE Galloni tasted in Sept 2023 noting his intent to look at the PdB Riserva

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KO 97 AG 94

Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva ‘Rabajà’ 2019

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barbaresco

The 2019 Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà is redolent of dark fruit, crushed rocks, graphite, sage, menthol and lavender all race across the palate, supported by bracing, young Rabajà tannins that make themselves felt. This mid-weight, powerhouse Barbaresco packs quite a punch. Antonio Galloni, Vinous 94 Points KO 97 *NOTE Galloni tasted in Sept 2023 noting his intent to look at the PdB Riservas in 12 months expecting they will resolve and shift up. KO tasted in Jan 2024 with 4 extra mon

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The Super Stars!

Giovanni Sordo Barolo ‘Villero’ 2015

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

Incredible perfume, so much intrigue. Felt like I was drinking and exceptional Chambolle-Musigny. Line and length of tannin and acid. Such harmony, beautiful fruit. Layers of tannin and flavour, great complexity. I love this! The most ‘Burgundian’ of these 8 cru, shimmering and transparent, signalling the elegance and finesse to unfold. A beautiful and intriguing wine with those Castiglione complexities of cranberry, strawberry, cherry-skin, dried flowers and herbs. Tannins are beautifully b

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The Super Stars!

Giovanni Sordo Barolo ‘Villero’ 2016

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

As tight as ... usual. Opens to quite pronounced pot-purri and some fresh-flower fragrance. Fabulously framed full palate with unevolved but full, textured, firm and forceful. Long. Seamless acid/tannin of Castiglione (and St Julien) Tight knit, this one. Wonderful. Crystal clear. Darker more broody than the 2015 which had a few more months off the boat when I first saw it. Fresh and vibrant / energetic. Bold, yet very good long, layered slatey tannins compared with the 2015. Wonderful texture h

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Paolo Conterno Barolo ‘Ginestra’ 2016

Nebbiolo | Monforte d'Alba, Italy

Paolo Conterno's 'Ginestra' is a demonstration of grace under pressure! Where the Commune of Monforte is can be known for massively structured wines, we have seen a number of makers producing beautiful, fine Barolo from the Commune. Ginestra is one of the greatest Cru's of Monforte. Paolo Conterno's is a demonstration of grace under pressure. Layered with earth, tea, a little hint of truffle, and a dash of flowers. It remains elegant, lining up fine tannins, with a deceptive core of fruit. Dr

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Vajra Barolo ‘Bricco delle Viole’ 2009

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

The 2012 Barolo Bricco delle Viole is pure class. A decidedly sensual, inviting Bricco delle Viole, the 2012 fleshes out in the glass with an effortless, inviting personality that is impossible to resist. Deep red cherry and plum notes open up first, followed by the classic floral notes that are so typical of this site. In 2012, the Bricco delle Viole is quite forward and fruit-driven, with essentially none of the angular contours that are typical when the wine is young. All of that means the 20

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Fratelli Alessandria Barolo ‘Gramolere’ 2019

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

'The 2019 Barolo Gramolere (with 7,000 bottles made) shows a slightly sweeter and riper fruit profile. This wine comes from the village of Monforte d'Alba, which is known for more structured and powerful wines compared to Verduno (where this winery is based), which offers lighter, more floral wines instead. Gramolere shows dark fruit, plum and spice, but it also has a pretty mineral note of rust or iron. However, within this portfolio, this wine may well deliver the longest drinking window.' Dri

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Cogno Barolo ‘Ravera’ 2017

Nebbiolo | Novello, Italy

"These vineyards represent the classic side of our production. They make elegant, smooth, and fresh wines with a fine aroma." Valter Fissore "The 2017 Barolo Ravera is a beautiful, precise wine. Bright acids and veins of tannin give the 2017 terrific energy that carries all the way through to the finish. Crushed flowers, sweet red berry fruit, chalk, white pepper and spice all open with a bit of coaxing. This is very nicely done." Antonio Galloni, Vinous

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Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva ‘Rabajà’ 2015

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barbaresco

The 2015 Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà hits the palate with a blast of dark cherry, plum, chocolate, new leather, licorice, smoke and spice. Somber and imposing, the Rabajà shows plenty of its typical breadth and body, but, not surprisingly, it is also closed and in need of time. There is good energy here, if not quite the visceral thrill of the very best years. Galloni

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Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva ‘Montefico’ 2015

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barbaresco

The 2015 Barbaresco Riserva Montefico is one of the most intriguing wines in this range. My impression is that the 2015 still has quite a bit to say, but this is Montefico, where the wines are slow to reveal themselves. White pepper, dried herbs, dried red cherry and mint add a super-appealing upper register. This is such a compelling Barbaresco. Galloni

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Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva ‘Montestefano’ 2015

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barbaresco

April 2024 Four years after release the Montestefano remains youthful needing 36 hours start showing it's full personality and harmonise. Beautifully balanced, the tannins and structural elements are robust and of quality. If drinking it now I'd decant in the morning to enjoy with dinner. It's a class act. The 2015 Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano rounds out this series of wines from Produttori del Barbaresco. Ample and resonant on the palate, the Montestefano shows all the natural breadt

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Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva ‘Muncogato’ 2015

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barbaresco

Just as it did over the summer, the 2015 Barbaresco Riserva Muncagota continues to impress. Bold and ample on the palate, with terrific fruit density, the 2015 offers a heady concoction of dark cherry, plum, licorice, smoke, spice and leather that flesh out in the glass. This is a terrific showing for the Muncagota, usually one of the less complex wines in the Produttori's range of nine Riservas. Galloni

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Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva ‘Ovello’ 2015

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barbaresco

One of the stand outs in this range, the 2015 Barbaresco Riserva Ovello shows the energy and tension that are so typical of this site, but with a slightly riper profile than is the norm. Then again, we are talking about 2015. Although perhaps not the most classic expression of Ovello, the Produttori's 2015 is very nicely done. Best of all, it will drink well with just a few more years in bottle. This is an especially heady, exotic Ovello Barbaresco that needs to shed some baby fat, its considera

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Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva ‘Rio Sordo’ 2016

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barbaresco

The 2016 Barbaresco Riserva Rio Sordo is a serious, somber wine. Black cherry, plum, lavender, spice and menthol show off the darker side of Nebbiolo to great effect. In most vintages, Rio Sordo is an easygoing wine, but not in 2016. Readers will find a potent, brooding yet mid-weight Barbaresco that screams with character. What a way to start this tasting! Galloni

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Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva ‘Pora’ 2016

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barbaresco

The 2016 Barbaresco Riserva Pora is a brooding wine, its mid-weight structure notwithstanding. Iron, smoke, tobacco, cedar and dried flowers add a feral, earthy quality that is so appealing. Pora is often one of the more approachable Riservas in this range, but the 2016 is an exception. Readers should be prepared to cellar it for at least a few years. Galloni

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Massolino “Parussi” Barolo 2017

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Castiglione Falletto

Massolino’s Castiglione Falletto Parussi tannins take longer to resolve than Parafada. Bordering both core soil types. Quite dense and layered. Bright red fruit with darker macerative pops. Fresh acid long. Will resolve beautifully in time.

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