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Location

Italy

Ahhh … Italy! Home of renaissance literature, philosophy, science and some of the most heart warming food in the world. From North to South it would be a fair guess to say the only thing outnumbering churches and Vespa’s are the vast areas of vineyards.

One thing is certain, you’ll never run short of choice!

First Records of Wine Production – Go back millennia!

Founding Figures – The Greek colonisation marked a shift from vine grown in the wild to planned viticulture around 800 BC the Romans dramatically expanded production around 200 BC. The Italians never looked back!

Area Planted – Around 700,000 hectares making around 19% of the world’s wine!

Number of Wineries – Soave alone is made by 3,500 producers. That’s around the same number of wineries as in all of Australia! From gargistes to industrial scale conglomerates every Italian has a winemaker in the family.

Established Regions – Every region in Italy produces wine! The most prestigious region Piedmont is home to the stunning Nebbiolos of Barolo & Barbaresco. The Chianti and Brunello of Tuscany following hot on Piedmont’s heals. These are just a drop in the ocean!

In typical Italian style the classification systems of each region vary and are often skewed by influential persons with much to gain over the quality of the industry. As always we need to rely on our taste buds as the ultimate decider of quality!

Most Common VarietiesIn his book ‘Native Wine Grapes of Italy’ Ian D’Agata documents around 500 Italian grape varieties, by no means the complete set! Around 350 of these have been granted authorized status. There’s plenty to try! We’ve seen a push to save some of the notable, rare varietals like the white Nascetta and Arneis from Piedmont. 

Whilst we have seen an ingress of French Varietals, the most notable being the Cabernet Varietals + Syrah used to make the Super Tuscans, the Italians have, by and large stayed true to their roots.

White – Whites of note: Arneis (Piedmont), Cataratto (Sicily), Fiano (southwest coast), Friulano (Friuli), Gargenaga (Veneto – the Soave grape), Greco di Tufo (southwest coast), Malvasia Bianca (throughout Italy), Moscato Blanc (Piedmont), Pecorino (Abruzzo), Pinot Grigo (Why?), Ribolla Gialla (Friulli), Trebbiano (Abruzzo), Verdicchio (Marche) and Vermentino (Sardinia, Tuscany and Liguria).

Red – Aglianico (Campania), Barbera (Piedmont), Corvina blended with Rondinella to make Amarone, Dolcetto (Piedmont), Malvasia Nera (Puglia), Montepuliciano (Tuscany), Nebbiolo (Piedmont), Negaromaro (Puglia), Nero d’Avola (Sicily), Primitivo (Puglia), Sagrantino (Umbria) and Sangiovese (Tuscany).

Up and Coming Regions – Beyond Barolo and Barbaresco, around the world we have seen Amarone, Chianti, Soave, Prosecco, Verdicchio and the wines of Puglia gain strong recognition. In recent times the increasing cost of Barolo in particular has seen exploration of Nebbiolo from Alto Piedmonte and Valtellina. At the opposite end of the country, in part due to the investment of heavy hitters like ‘Barolo Boy’ Marco di Grazie (Terre Nere) and Andrea Franchetti (Passopisciaro) the Nerello Mascelese (red) and Carricante (white) wines of Etna, Sicily have become world recognised. Nerello Mascelese being described as some as the Barolo of the South or a cross between Nebbiolo and Pinot. I prefer to call it delicious!


A Treasure Hunt for the Lost Whites of Italy!


Timorasso ~ Nascetta ~ Erbaluce

3 Italian Whites Saved from Extinction!

Of the thousands of grape varieties that exist, and even more clones of each variety, few make it into our glass.

Many have been lost. Economic reality making them not viable.

Advances in viticulture, changes in climate and the passion of a few individuals have saved a few!

For that we are thankful!


Timorasso


The Saviours

Walter & Claudio along with their shared cellarmaster ‘Pigi’ are both the saviours & masters of Timorasso! The hold some of the oldest plantings making wine of great complexity, texture. Composed & full of personality.

Walter describes his Derthona as a “Modern Antique”.

Delicious!

Vigneti Massa Timorasso ‘Derthona’ 2019

Timorasso | Colli Tortonesi, Italy

From near extinction the Massa family have saved Timorasso, for that I am truly thankful! Massa's Derthona is the perfect introduction to the variety. It's alway more complete than the 'Picolo Derthona' with a build in richness, more golden colour. Delicious, saline minerality, excellent acid profile, build in phenolics and carry through to a cleansing silvery line of bitterness + apricot kernel. The 2019 is another success from Massa & Piggy. A bolder slightly riper incarnation than the
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Claudio Mariotto ‘Pitasso’ Derthona Timorasso 2018

Timorasso | Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi

Where the Cavallina has overt generosity and power, the fruit depth and length of the Pitasso are more than its equal, with an edge of sophistication that lends to a more restrained feel. The power is all there, showing superb linear fruit and exceptional, fine acid. This lingers forever! Stunning mouthfeel, leveling up on the harmony in comparison to the delicious Cavallina. This is very, very good. Effortless and composed. The flavours start with ripe pear, build and layer as you swallow and c
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The Friends & Lovers

Vietti, Oddero and Roagna are amongst the great names that have recognised just how unique & delicious the wines made from Timorasso are & have put the passion in a glass!

Vietti Derthona Timorasso Colli Tortonesi 2020

Timorasso | Colli Tortonesi, Italy

The latest addition to the Vietti portfolio sees a white from the eastern most border of the Piedmont region. A perfect fit for Vietti with regard to their history of working with varietals of merit that for one reason or another have diminished over time. Timorasso makes beautiful wine the Massa is a cracker. I can't wait to try Vietti's version. With a wonderful array of flavours, textures, and, wonderful acidity the variety is loaded with personality & intrigue. For the 2019: Th
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Roagna Timorasso Derthona Montemarzino 2019

Timorasso | Colli Tortonesi, Italy

A grape variety saved by saved by Massa & on the rise! With Vietti, Roagna and Borgogno adding their names to those making Timorasso, it's clear something special is happening in Derthona (the old name for Tortona). 'The 2019 Timorasso Derthona Montemarzino is bright, transparent and super-expressive. Luca Roagna's Timorasso is one of the most refined versions. I have tasted of Timorasso, which is usually a much more rustic white wine.' Antonio Galloni, Vinous
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Nascetta


The Saviour

Elvio Cogno with his plantings in Novello, Barolo is turning out intoxicating wines from Nascetta. As he says they need a year or 2 in bottle to reveal their full potential. Grab a 2019 to drink now and 2020 next summer!


Erbaluce


The Champion

Erbaluce can make many styles of from sparkling, late harvest & passito wines.

Antoniolo’s is a wonderfully fresh and crunchy dry white style. The 2020 has settled, resolving beautifully over the last 6 months and is in a wonderful place.

Perfect summer drinking.

Filters & Sorting

Showing 583 Delicious Wines!

A component that was previously blended into the Barolo del Barolo. A beautiful perfume lifts from the glass. An extra pop of perceived acidity makes for tannins with a playful edge to the mid-palate adding pleasure. Truffles, earthiness, darkness, with energy. Of the first three Barolos this will need more time to resolve. Serious gear. Winemaker’s hat on I can see why they separated. It will clearly give so much more with a few years in bottle. A presence yet sophistication of perfume a
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KO 96 AG 94

Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva ‘Ovello’ 2019

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barbaresco

The 2019 Barbaresco Riserva Ovello is powerful, savory and intensely linear, in classico Ovello style, and yet it appears to have enough fruit behind its imposing tannins to develop well over the coming years. In this tasting, the Ovello feels pretty closed post bottling, but its inherent balance and qualities are there. Clean saline notes extend the finish in promising fashion. Antonio Galloni, Vinous 94 Points KO 96 *NOTE Galloni tasted in Sept 2023 noting his intent to look at the P
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KO 98 AG 93

Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva ‘Pajé’ 2019

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barbaresco

The 2019 Barbaresco Riserva Pajè is full of character. Strong mineral, savory and floral notes jump out of the glass, before veins of tannin make themselves felt on the palate. A powerful, young Barbaresco, the Pajè is going to need a number of years to come into its own. That said, all of its signatures are very much present. Antonio Galloni, Vinous 93 Points KO 98 *NOTE Galloni tasted in Sept 2023 noting his intent to look at the PdB Riservas in 12 months expecting they will resolv
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KO 96 AG 92

Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva ‘Pora’ 2019

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barbaresco

The 2019 Barbaresco Riserva Pora is a pretty tightly wound wine, certainly moreso than is typically the case for this Barbaresco, which is often much more engaging in the early going. Dried herbs, tobacco, cedar and earthiness lend notable savory nuance in this decidedly nervy, somber Pora. There's good fruit intensity and plenty of character that makes me want to revisit this in a few months' time. Antonio Galloni, Vinous 92 Points KO 96 *NOTE Galloni tasted in Sept 2023 noting his in
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KO 98 AG 93
The 2019 Barbaresco Riserva Rio Sordo is quite deep in this vintage, with notable depth in its dark-toned fruit. This is an especially powerful Rio Sordo that is still coming together. Its intensity is palpable, even if I see less of the finesse that I associate with wines from this site. Today, all of the wine's energy is directed inwards. Antonio Galloni, Vinous 93 Points KO 98 *NOTE Galloni tasted in Sept 2023 noting his intent to look at the PdB Riservas in 12 months expecting they
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KO 98 AG 93+
The 2019 Barbaresco Riserva Montefico is one of the most searingly tannic wines in the range. Readers will have to be patient with the 2019, as it is going to need time. As always, Montefico is a Barbaresco built on linear intensity more than size. In 2019, the qualities are quite accented. Time in the glass opens the bouquet nicely, but the 2019 remains quite closed. Antonio Galloni, Vinous 93+ Points KO 98 *NOTE Galloni tasted in Sept 2023 noting his intent to look at the PdB Riserva
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KO 97 AG 94
The 2019 Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà  is redolent of dark fruit, crushed rocks, graphite, sage, menthol and lavender all race across the palate, supported by bracing, young Rabajà tannins that make themselves felt. This mid-weight, powerhouse Barbaresco packs quite a punch. Antonio Galloni, Vinous 94 Points KO 97 *NOTE Galloni tasted in Sept 2023 noting his intent to look at the PdB Riservas in 12 months expecting they will resolve and shift up. KO tasted in Jan 2024 with 4 extra mon
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The Super Stars!

Giovanni Sordo Barolo ‘Villero’ 2015

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

Incredible perfume, so much intrigue. Felt like I was drinking and exceptional Chambolle-Musigny. Line and length of tannin and acid. Such harmony, beautiful fruit. Layers of tannin and flavour, great complexity. I love this! The most ‘Burgundian’ of these 8 cru, shimmering and transparent, signalling the elegance and finesse to unfold. A beautiful and intriguing wine with those Castiglione complexities of cranberry, strawberry, cherry-skin, dried flowers and herbs. Tannins are beautifully b
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The Super Stars!

Giovanni Sordo Barolo ‘Villero’ 2016

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

As tight as ... usual. Opens to quite pronounced pot-purri and some fresh-flower fragrance. Fabulously framed full palate with unevolved but full, textured, firm and forceful. Long. Seamless acid/tannin of Castiglione (and St Julien) Tight knit, this one. Wonderful. Crystal clear. Darker more broody than the 2015 which had a few more months off the boat when I first saw it. Fresh and vibrant / energetic. Bold, yet very good long, layered slatey tannins compared with the 2015. Wonderful texture h
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Paolo Conterno Barolo ‘Ginestra’ 2016

Nebbiolo | Monforte d'Alba, Italy

Paolo Conterno's 'Ginestra' is a demonstration of grace under pressure! Where the Commune of Monforte is can be known for massively structured wines, we have seen a number of makers producing beautiful, fine Barolo from the Commune. Ginestra is one of the greatest Cru's of Monforte. Paolo Conterno's is a demonstration of grace under pressure. Layered with earth, tea, a little hint of truffle, and a dash of flowers. It remains elegant, lining up fine tannins, with a deceptive core of fruit. Dr
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Vajra Barolo ‘Bricco delle Viole’ 2009

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

The 2012 Barolo Bricco delle Viole is pure class. A decidedly sensual, inviting Bricco delle Viole, the 2012 fleshes out in the glass with an effortless, inviting personality that is impossible to resist. Deep red cherry and plum notes open up first, followed by the classic floral notes that are so typical of this site. In 2012, the Bricco delle Viole is quite forward and fruit-driven, with essentially none of the angular contours that are typical when the wine is young. All of that means the 20
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'The 2019 Barolo Gramolere (with 7,000 bottles made) shows a slightly sweeter and riper fruit profile. This wine comes from the village of Monforte d'Alba, which is known for more structured and powerful wines compared to Verduno (where this winery is based), which offers lighter, more floral wines instead. Gramolere shows dark fruit, plum and spice, but it also has a pretty mineral note of rust or iron. However, within this portfolio, this wine may well deliver the longest drinking window.' Dri
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Cogno Barolo ‘Ravera’ 2017

Nebbiolo | Novello, Italy

"These vineyards represent the classic side of our production. They make elegant, smooth, and fresh wines with a fine aroma." Valter Fissore "The 2017 Barolo Ravera is a beautiful, precise wine. Bright acids and veins of tannin give the 2017 terrific energy that carries all the way through to the finish. Crushed flowers, sweet red berry fruit, chalk, white pepper and spice all open with a bit of coaxing. This is very nicely done." Antonio Galloni, Vinous
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The 2015 Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà hits the palate with a blast of dark cherry, plum, chocolate, new leather, licorice, smoke and spice. Somber and imposing, the Rabajà shows plenty of its typical breadth and body, but, not surprisingly, it is also closed and in need of time. There is good energy here, if not quite the visceral thrill of the very best years. Galloni
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The 2015 Barbaresco Riserva Montefico is one of the most intriguing wines in this range. My impression is that the 2015 still has quite a bit to say, but this is Montefico, where the wines are slow to reveal themselves. White pepper, dried herbs, dried red cherry and mint add a super-appealing upper register. This is such a compelling Barbaresco. Galloni
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April 2024 Four years after release the Montestefano remains youthful needing 36 hours start showing it's full personality and harmonise. Beautifully balanced, the tannins and structural elements are robust and of quality. If drinking it now I'd decant in the morning to enjoy with dinner. It's a class act. The 2015 Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano rounds out this series of wines from Produttori del Barbaresco. Ample and resonant on the palate, the Montestefano shows all the natural breadt
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