Serafino Rivella Barbaresco ‘Montestefano’ 2016

Why is this Wine so Yummy?

About Serafino Rivella

A tiny cult producer of Barbaresco at the Montestefano Cru

Everything at the winery is done by Teobaldo and his wife Maria – they are both entirely hands on and make just two wines – the Barbaresco Montestefano and their Dolcetto d’Alba

“Imagine if Maria-Theresa Mascarello [of Bartolo Mascarello] made Barbaresco, it would taste like that!”. David Berry Green who heads up the Italian Wine purchases for the esteemed Berry Brothers & Rudd, who also is the long time ‘significant other’ of Maria-Theresa.

The producer in reference was Teobaldo Rivella of Cantina Serafina Rivella.

Rivella’s tiny cellar produces about 1000 cases of wine each year, all heralding from the historic Cru of Montestefano in Barbaresco itself. Of the 1000 cases, about 750 are Barbaresco “Montestefano” and 250 are of a serious and regal Dolcetto. The vineyard was planted in 1963 by Rivella’s father, and the first vintage produced at the estate was 1967. His Montestefano parcel is next to his house, so he treats it, “come il mio giardino” (as my own little garden) he says, meticulously tended. Since the beginning, the vineyards have also been farmed organically.

The Montestefano Cru is unique in that is comprised of a solid meter of active limestone at the surface with clay and tufo underneath. This provides for a wine that has both freshness and lift, but also a bit more serious structure than most Barbarescos. Rivella vinifies more like Barolo, with 3-4 week macerations and long aging of 30-40 months in Botti Grande. As such, he tends to release his wines a year later than his neighbors, more like his brethren further south in Barolo. The Dolcetto too is aged in large cask, and released 18 months after the vintage. Not just a tutti-fruity wine to simply drink and forget.

In getting to know Rivella and his wines over the past several years, one gets a glimpse at the Piedmont of yesteryear. The wines and the people are unabashedly ‘old-school’ in the best sense. There is a sense of strength, pride and character in how they operate.

The 2016 Barbaresco Vintage

Early signs from the Langhe wines and Barbaresco coming through show a vintage of elegance and sophistication with a solid core of fruit and ripe tannins. A classic in the making. Now that we’ve seen many more Barbarescos from the year we can confirm it is one of the greats!

From Antonio Galloni

A First Look at the 2016s…

I came away from my late summer tastings of Barbarescos deeply impressed. The region, which has so often appeared sleepy and backward, especially compared to Barolo, seems to be going through a brilliant phase. Reference-point estates are upping their game, while a number of ambitious, young winemakers are making significant improvements in quality. The 2016s, wines from a potentially historic vintage, may very well put Barbaresco on the map big time. As I traveled from producer to producer, I experienced that sense of excitement and energy I always feel when in the presence of important vintages and wines.

The young 2016 Barbarescos are some of the most compelling young wines I have tasted in twenty years of visiting the region. Many of the 2016s are still in barrel, but the picture that is starting to emerge from wines I tasted in bottle and cask is of a very high quality vintage with the potential to be truly extraordinary.

In tasting, the 2016s are extraordinarily harmonious. The extended growing season yielded wines with healthy Nebbiolo fruit, soaring aromatics and perfectly ripe, super-polished tannins. A number of producers told me they had both healthy maturities and low pHs in 2016, a combination that is unusual. Stylistically, the 2016s remind me of the 2004s, but with more fruit and the added finesse that comes with another dozen years of experience in farming and winemaking. The best 2016s I tasted are positively dazzling. Most of the 2016s have only recently been bottled, and yet their quality is evident.

Where in the World is Serafino Rivella?

Look for the township of Barbaresco and just to the east you’ll find the famed Cru of Montestefano. Head south along west border of the region and you’ll find Roncaglietti named Sori Tildin by Gaja. In the center north in the commune of Nieve you’ll find Straderi.